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seeds Soaking Seeds
- Thread starter MizNitch
- Start date
i'd say that a lot of people do. I've done both, but I find that germination is quicker after I soak them for 24 hours or so. Plus you probably weed out the bad seeds by getting rid of the ones that are still floating. It's not mandatory to soak them but I it helps.
I do over night and have had good results.
I either soak them for 24 hours or use the damp paper towel method for germination.
not more than 24hrs though
Here Is a short bit of information taken from "Wikipedia" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seed
Inducing germination
A number of different strategies are used by gardeners and horticulturists to break seed dormancy.
Scarification which allows water and gases to penetrate into the seed, include methods that physically break the hard seed coats or soften them by chemicals. Means of scarification include soaking in hot water or poking holes in the seed with a pin or rubbing them on sandpaper or cracking with a press or hammer. Soaking the seeds in solvents or acids is also effective for many seeds. Sometimes fruits are harvested while the seeds are still immature and the seed coat is not fully developed and sown right away before the seed coat become impermeable. Under natural conditions seed coats are worn down by rodents chewing on the seed, the seeds rubbing against rocks (seeds are moved by the wind or water currents), by undergoing freezing and thawing of surface water, or passing through an animal's digestive tract. In the latter case, the seed coat protects the seed from digestion, while often weakening the seed coat such that the embryo is ready to sprout when it gets deposited (along with a bit of fertilizer) far from the parent plant. Microorganisms are often effective in breaking down hard seed coats and are sometimes used by people as a treatment, the seeds are stored in a moist warm sandy medium for several months under non-sterile conditions.
Stratification also called moist-chilling is a method to break down physiological dormancy and involves the addition of moisture to the seeds so they imbibe water and then the seeds are subject to a period of moist chilling to after-ripen the embryo. Sowing outside in late summer and fall and allowing to overwinter outside under cool conditions is an effective way to stratify seeds, some seeds respond more favorably to periods of osculating temperatures which are part of the natural environment.
Leaching or the soaking in water removes chemical inhibitors in some seeds that prevent germination. Rain and melting snow naturally accomplish this task. For seeds planted in gardens, running water is best - if soaked in a container, 12 to 24 hours of soaking is sufficient. Soaking longer, especially in stagnant water that is not changed, can result in oxygen starvation and seed death. Seeds with hard seed coats can be soaked in hot water to break open the impermeable cell layers that prevent water intake.
Other methods used to assist in the germination of seeds that have dormancy include prechilling, predrying, daily alternation of temperature, light exposure, potassium nitrate, the use of plant growth regulators like gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, thiourea, sodium hypochlorite plus others.[32] Some seeds germinate best after a fire, for some seeds fire cracks hard seed coats while in other seeds chemical dormancy is broken in reaction to the presence of smoke, liquid smoke is often used by gardeners to assist in the germination of these species
Inducing germination
A number of different strategies are used by gardeners and horticulturists to break seed dormancy.
Scarification which allows water and gases to penetrate into the seed, include methods that physically break the hard seed coats or soften them by chemicals. Means of scarification include soaking in hot water or poking holes in the seed with a pin or rubbing them on sandpaper or cracking with a press or hammer. Soaking the seeds in solvents or acids is also effective for many seeds. Sometimes fruits are harvested while the seeds are still immature and the seed coat is not fully developed and sown right away before the seed coat become impermeable. Under natural conditions seed coats are worn down by rodents chewing on the seed, the seeds rubbing against rocks (seeds are moved by the wind or water currents), by undergoing freezing and thawing of surface water, or passing through an animal's digestive tract. In the latter case, the seed coat protects the seed from digestion, while often weakening the seed coat such that the embryo is ready to sprout when it gets deposited (along with a bit of fertilizer) far from the parent plant. Microorganisms are often effective in breaking down hard seed coats and are sometimes used by people as a treatment, the seeds are stored in a moist warm sandy medium for several months under non-sterile conditions.
Stratification also called moist-chilling is a method to break down physiological dormancy and involves the addition of moisture to the seeds so they imbibe water and then the seeds are subject to a period of moist chilling to after-ripen the embryo. Sowing outside in late summer and fall and allowing to overwinter outside under cool conditions is an effective way to stratify seeds, some seeds respond more favorably to periods of osculating temperatures which are part of the natural environment.
Leaching or the soaking in water removes chemical inhibitors in some seeds that prevent germination. Rain and melting snow naturally accomplish this task. For seeds planted in gardens, running water is best - if soaked in a container, 12 to 24 hours of soaking is sufficient. Soaking longer, especially in stagnant water that is not changed, can result in oxygen starvation and seed death. Seeds with hard seed coats can be soaked in hot water to break open the impermeable cell layers that prevent water intake.
Other methods used to assist in the germination of seeds that have dormancy include prechilling, predrying, daily alternation of temperature, light exposure, potassium nitrate, the use of plant growth regulators like gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, thiourea, sodium hypochlorite plus others.[32] Some seeds germinate best after a fire, for some seeds fire cracks hard seed coats while in other seeds chemical dormancy is broken in reaction to the presence of smoke, liquid smoke is often used by gardeners to assist in the germination of these species
I have one word for those who think they have a great method of germinating seeds: bananas!
I have sowed 100 banana seeds, of 24 different types, dating back to November 10, with most of them sowed in the middle of December. To date, I have one, repeat, one seed sprout. I've tried just sowing them, soaking them for 24 hours, soaking them for seven days, putting them in a paper towel, soaking them in tea, scarifying them. Putting containers on a heat mat, over a light source, in plastic bags, uncovered. Keeping the potting mix wet, moist, letting it dry out and watering it again. Under bright lights, in the dark.
It's not like I do badly germinating seeds such as tomatoes or peppers - I average between 85-95 percent, depending on how many I sow. But this monkey food is difficult, to say the least!
Mike
I have sowed 100 banana seeds, of 24 different types, dating back to November 10, with most of them sowed in the middle of December. To date, I have one, repeat, one seed sprout. I've tried just sowing them, soaking them for 24 hours, soaking them for seven days, putting them in a paper towel, soaking them in tea, scarifying them. Putting containers on a heat mat, over a light source, in plastic bags, uncovered. Keeping the potting mix wet, moist, letting it dry out and watering it again. Under bright lights, in the dark.
It's not like I do badly germinating seeds such as tomatoes or peppers - I average between 85-95 percent, depending on how many I sow. But this monkey food is difficult, to say the least!
Mike
I think ya better start germinating pineapple seeds Mike 
or maybe give this a try???
osmotic priming
24 h in a solution of 1% concentration Potassium nitrate KNO3 and then 24 h in a solution 500 ppm of Giberellic Acid At 29 ºC
If the seeds are new and easier, it's better to use just the KNO3 for 24hrs
And if they are very easy just plain water or you can add a little bit od dish washer just to break the superficial tension
osmotic priming
24 h in a solution of 1% concentration Potassium nitrate KNO3 and then 24 h in a solution 500 ppm of Giberellic Acid At 29 ºC
If the seeds are new and easier, it's better to use just the KNO3 for 24hrs
And if they are very easy just plain water or you can add a little bit od dish washer just to break the superficial tension
JungleRain said:
Huh?
The seeds are newer (I did understand that part) but is there a simple product that is the same as KNO3 (such as salt=NaCl) . I know - Google!
Trust me, there is NOTHING easy about germinating these seeds from hell. The packages state it takes 1-12 months to germinate. (Some are suppose to be easy - yeah, right!).
Thanks,
Mike
wordwiz said:
up to 12 months, your Monkeys will starve before then!!!
Good luck
I know I am new to this site, but I found an excellent planting system. I sowed 20 Bhut Jolokia seeds on Dec. 26, 2009 and as of today I have 18 seedlings!!! So what is this miracle system? I found it online from ParkSeeds.com. I am using the Jumbo BioDome. It holds 40 media sponges that you put the seeds into, place them into the tray and the tray floats on water in it's container. They claim it gives the seedlings just the right amount of water/food, as they need it. Here is a picture of them. I know, you only see 17 seedlings, I moved one to a pot of soil 2 days ago, just to see what happens, so far it is still alive.
Matt50680 said:
they look very healthy. as well as no legginess to them. when the first ones sprouted did you move them out of the dome or just leave the dome on while the others sprouted?? I had quick germination results as well but am noticing a bit of legginess compared to yours.
Ballzworth said:
Thanks for the comment, this is the second year I have grown Bhut's (tried to anyways) as the ones last year died while they were still seedlings. No, I have left the dome on. I am checking the temp inside it twice a day, it is staying right around 70F, they seem to like it.
This has really baffled me though, I have always been told that Bhut seeds take 3-6 weeks to germinate, my first ones popped up in just 8 days!!!
Matt50680 said:
I was concerned with the same thing that I've been hearing. I thought it could take 30+ days for super-hots to germinate but my bhuts started sprouting in 7 days with all 12 seeds done germination in 10 days. Same thing went for Trinidad Scorpion, 7 Pot, Red Savina, and Naga Morich (which was a few days later). I just used peat strips with no consistent temperature. I think the germination is the easy part and the healthy growth afterwards is what needs more attention for better results.
POTAWIE said:
+1