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grilling Grilled Tocino

Hey y'all, I've been jonesin' to get my grill on at The Blues Casa with some tocino for a good while. I had never made the stuff myself but really enjoyed the hell out of the marinaded porky "red meat" as my Filipino amigo's called it. That was several years ago in Alaska whence last I had it and my friend Manolo would never divulge the recipe. Can't say as I blame him, the stuff is pure gold!

This is one of the very few times that I will admit that I put in some research (yeah, screw you JayT) to discover the secret of making this incredible meat.

In Spain, tocino is literally translated to mean "bacon". The Spanish influence in the Philippines runs deep but combined with heavy doses of Asian influences, the cuisine has evolved into something very unique. I discovered many recipes for tocino, some authentic, some not so, and many bastard wannabe's. The basics are thus. Thin sliced pork shoulder/butt, salt, sugar, and a coloring ingredient to give the meat a very delicious looking red appearance. Many authentic recipes however, do omit the coloring agent. Some coloring agents used are FD 40 Red food coloring, beet powder/juice, achiote, or in some abominable recipe's, ketchup. I don't care for the fake coloring stuff and was leaning towards beet juice but from what I did know about my friends recipe, they used artificial food coloring and wanting to achieve a result as close as I could to what I knew tocino to be, I succumbed to the temptation to use it. Some older recipes used salt peter or pink salt to cure the meat. I was having none of that crap!

Now here's the dealio with the pork shoulder/butt. It's got a heap of fat and if you try to slice the meat thin, its just going to be a big mess and fall all apart. What you want to do is stick the meat in the freezer for a good hour or two and then slice it. Much easier. You'll still have some meat that falls apart but the end result will leave you with much steakier looking pieces. Unfortunately, I didn't do that. Last week I went to the local TryNSave(Kroger) and spoke with the meat dpt. manager and asked if they could slice me up a pork shoulder. No problem. A couple days later I go back to have the deed done and asked the dude at the counter to hook me up. "Sorry man but we can't slice pork." "WTF? Are you kidding? Just the other day your manager said no worries on anything I want!" Another dude working behind the counter shows up. "Yeah man, we can't do sliced pork because of the bone in shoulder." At this point I was getting a little peeved and said something to the effect of "there's a new cutting tool on the market you should look into. It's called a BANDSAW!!! Go back in the freezer, grab me a 4-6 shoulder and slice it up!! Charge extra, I don't care!!" They both look at me like I just came from outer space. Finally one of them sheepishly goes in the back for a spell and comes back and says "uhm, sir, I don't have any frozen shoulders." Now at this point, the little pea in my noggin' was spinning pretty hard but rather than get mad, I decided to feck with this guy. "Okay, wait here for a sec." I run over to the pork section and grab a 4 pound packaged shoulder, obviously thawed out. "Dude, take this over to the band saw and slice it up." "But sir, that's gonna' slice up into a big mess, are you sure..." "Two words amigo, BAND SAW. I don't care if the meat falls apart." Let me just say that while the result of the slicing is not what I had set out for, the mental mind feck I put on that schmo as he was hating life cutting that shoulder on the band saw was worth it. Fat and pork flying everywhere, but in the end, I got at least partially what I wanted along with a good laugh. Next time I'll do my own slicing.

So here's what I got...

4 # bone in pork shoulder, thin sliced no less than 1/8" or more than 1/4"
2 cups white cane sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
3 cups water
FD 40 red food coloring

In a large stainless steel bowl, I combined the water, sugar, salt and food coloring and whisked until everything was dissolved. I then added the sliced meat and mixed until incorporated. Then I covered the whole thing in plastic wrap and into the fridge for 4-5 days.

Look at that color!

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I stirred meat and marinade each day. By day 2, almost all of the liquid had been absorbed into the meat. Yesterday, the 4th day, I decided it was ready and to vac pack it up. 1 pack for the grill, and the others for the freezer for later use.

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Last night, under the light of The Blues Porch, I fired up ye' olde' gas grill and slapped the porkage on. Sure the pieces were on the small side but the alcohol in my noggin' was tellin' me to be like Honey Badger, and Honey Badger, he don't care!

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Now the most important thing is to grill the meat without burning it but also to push the envelope and take it right to the edge to just get a good caramelization going on it. Don't walk away from it though or you'll screw the pooch and have just a bunch of overcooked blackened meat.

As you can see, I made the mistake of going for a fresh brewhaha but I got lucky and only one piece got a bit over charred.

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And this is just how I remember the meat turning out at Manolo's house years ago. AWESOME!
The foreelz test would come in the tasting and have mercy! It did not disappoint. I nailed it!
Tender, sweet, a touch salty, and the light char...there was some serious umami voodoo going on here. My plan for this meat was for taco's but I couldn't stop fisting it into my mouth! Even missylou got some. We were both in heaven!!

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Now research has revealed that Filipino tocino is generally served for breakfast along with garlic rice and eggs. My Filipino friends never ate it that way. It was usually a late night affair, often after midnight, hanging around Manolo's grill on his back porch, adult beverages in hand. He'd grill the meat and we'd slap it on warm flour tortilla's schmeared with cream cheese and minced green onions. It was one of the best damn 'thangs I have ever eaten!

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I know on THP we have several Filipino's and folks from Hawaii that have experience with this stuff. I had pm'd PinoyPride about making the tocino and this is inspired a bit by him. Thanks brah! Your comments are appreciated.

No shishi wawa meat here. No ketchup. None of that fake crap. I think I came pretty damn close to the straight up real deal Filipino tocino. The only things I would do different would be to slice my own meat, and to use beet juice rather than artificial food coloring. Other than that...

TOCINO ROCKS!!!
 
Much obliged Sticky.

Some of the more authentic recipe's for tocino also incorporate pineapple juice and or soy sauce. A couple recipe's I ran across also use 7UP or Sprite. I can totally see using that as the pop adds some sweetness and the phosphates in the pop help to break down and tenderize the meat.

I reckon that one could play around with the recipe quite a bit while still maintaining the spirit of the cuisine.

Just have fun with it.
 
You abandoned your "best meal I ever ate" thread? Lol
Great read TB.
Why can't butchers, butcher? That's always tricky slicing raw roasts.
We have a meat slicer, and the freezer trick is a must. Still kind of messy, but better than your TryNsave ordeal, lol.
I can only immagine eating that stuff, on a warm tortilla, during a nice Alaskan summer evening.
Would it be good served on a bed of say... Soba noodles? I don't imagine mucking it up with any sort of sauce, (duh) but it looks like some asian style noodles would be awesome with it.

Also, just curious if Saffron would work or help with the coloring, (if you won the lottery, lol).

Looks good my man, I wish I could eat some!
 
Also, just curious if Saffron would work or help with the coloring, (if you won the lottery, lol).
You might want to try Asian food markets for Saffron. I get it from a place near here that charges $11 for two grams. The importer they get it from buys in in India instead of Spain. I've tried both, and can't tell the difference. I'm absolutely addicted to Jujeh Kebab as a way of grilling chicken in the summer. The combination of yogurt, lemon, saffron, onion and the best olive oil you can afford is incredible. No chiles, but you gotta try it.
 
You abandoned your "best meal I ever ate" thread? Lol
Great read TB.
Why can't butchers, butcher? That's always tricky slicing raw roasts.
We have a meat slicer, and the freezer trick is a must. Still kind of messy, but better than your TryNsave ordeal, lol.
I can only immagine eating that stuff, on a warm tortilla, during a nice Alaskan summer evening.
Would it be good served on a bed of say... Soba noodles? I don't imagine mucking it up with any sort of sauce, (duh) but it looks like some asian style noodles would be awesome with it.

Also, just curious if Saffron would work or help with the coloring, (if you won the lottery, lol).

Looks good my man, I wish I could eat some!

Gracias Scovie. Funny, in Alaska we grilled all year long not matter if it was 30 below or blowing 40 knots and a blizzard. In the summer when it never really got dark, grilling at 3am after a late evening of salmon fishing was just a normal every day thing. No matter the day or time or reason, seems somebody in the neighborhood had a grill or smoker going.

I think noodles would be fine but I'd most likely prefer them on the side. Obviously, my first choice with anything is a tortilla. The garlic rice as mentioned I think would be good too. Thinking about it now, you could also use it in place of regular bacon for a BLT. More awesomeness!

I'm not a big fan of saffron as to me it can be a bit metallic tasting and I don't know that you could get enough of it to impart the really rich red color that say beet juice would. When I think of saffron I think more yellow/light orangey colors.

I believe the flavor of the meat can stand on its own and definitely not have a bunch of other sauce or condiments. I've eaten it with hoisin sauce but it didn't need it. I think the cream cheese and green onions really compliment the flavor of the meat though.

I though about using some sort of heat/spice agent to jack it up as we all like to do here on THP. I thought about it a while and came to the conclusion this is one of the few meats that I wouldn't jack the heat up as I wouldn't want to take away from all that salt/sugar umami flavor 'thang going on.

There are some recipes many are inclined to keep for themselves and never reveal, even to their friends. I consider this to be in that category but to be honest, its so damn good, it should be out there so everyone can enjoy it and put their own spin on it.
 
Yeah, I thought about the Saffron color, after I posted. More yellow.
Damm, BLT? Yeah, ok, two please.
 
Great read. I eat tocino and topsilog all the time. I have a filipino friend who's wife actually caters part time from home. You should have posted here I could have told you tocino is nothing more than a standard pork brine with red die. Although most try and cut the meat thin some places don't.

I actually do something similar with a pork butt brine, but instead of using die I use the powdered sweet and sour mix. Don't know the name off the top of my head, but it's very common and you can find it in almost any asian section or market. Instead of using die try and use that it actually has a lot of die in it already, but does have some spices and taste great.
 
Yeah, next time around I'll be using non vinegar beet juice for the die.

I cut the meat thin mainly because my friends did it that way.

Such a simple recipe really, but so dang good!
 
Yeah I think your suppose to cut it as thin as possible, but most just slices it as thin as they can with a knife. I don't think I would have been able to get my bucher to put the meat on a bandsaw though lol.
 
It's funny because I had it all set up earlier with the main jefe' in the meat dept.

Course when I showed up a couple days later, Thing 1 and Thing 2 behind the counter with a combined IQ of 27, didn't have a clue.

I'll just put a light freeze on the meat and cut it myself next time.
 
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