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Naga Morich - Dead or not?

Hi everybody! Wish you all a happy happy happy new year!

Here is my case: I saw my first naga sprout the other day

p9300026.jpg


I left it for a couple of days and then tried to remove the seed cap. It came off really easy, but this is what i saw underneath

pa010011.jpg


and from another angle...

pa010014.jpg



Is my first naga dead? Looks like the inner shell of the cap is still on...

Thanks in advance for your help.

BTW, this forum has ruined my life... I've spent more than 100 hours reading all these beautiful things here, advices, tips, and especially the GLOGS!!!

That's it for now, have to read some more glogs.
 
That is crazy to me it looks like the seed cap is still on ?.

Hey if you are interested in some seedlings I have a ton. I am just asking that you pay shipping, should be 12 for a medium flat rate box plus delivery confirmation ?

- Mega
 
Hard to tell from the pic... try to gently sprinkle some water on the inner shell left to soften it and let the seedling alone.
It may still recover.

Good luck

Datil
 
I'm a little new at seed starting as well but had this same problem as you with a few seeds I had like that.
Do as the above posts says and wet the seed shell a good bit before trying to pull off.

Noticed your soil mix is a little dry. Might have something to with it as well. The seedling would then be dry as well and seed shell not have a chance to slide off. Maybe keep your soil mix a little wetter next time and see.
 
It's very hard to tell from the pic since it's not focused. I'm kind of more concerned about the color, though I realize that could just be lighting issues. It should be more green than yellow.
 
Thanks for your answers.

I have some more seeds already sown and i'll wait for them. I'll leave this one as well just to see what will happen.

here is another (also crappy) photo

pa010012.jpg


i tried to scratch it a little bit with a toothpick but looks like it's not a seperate part of the sprout

anyway, thanks again
 
Thanks for your answers.

I have some more seeds already sown and i'll wait for them. I'll leave this one as well just to see what will happen.

here is another (also crappy) photo

pa010012.jpg


i tried to scratch it a little bit with a toothpick but looks like it's not a seperate part of the sprout

anyway, thanks again

The top of the sprout is the seed embryo from which the cotyledons have not developed yet. It is not part of the seed casing as you have found.
 
The top of the sprout is the seed embryo from which the cotyledons have not developed yet. It is not part of the seed casing as you have found.

wow, that's good news, right? I mean if i haven't destroy the embryo by doing all these, there is a tiny possibility that this seedling will probably survive, right?

Thanks a lot harry. Any tip? Should i cover the cup again in order to retain moisture?
 
wow, that's good news, right? I mean if i haven't destroy the embryo by doing all these, there is a tiny possibility that this seedling will probably survive, right?

Thanks a lot harry. Any tip? Should i cover the cup again in order to retain moisture?

Try not to let the mix the other seeds are sowed in dry out as suggested above to provide more friction.

In that type of mix if you sowed the seed less than 1 cm deep then I would consider topping it up.
 
hard to tell from the picture, but the only way to tell for sure is to wait for a few more days and see if it develops leaves
 
Your seedling is not dead; however, you removed the seed cap TOO EARLY and have exposed the tender underdeveloped cotyledon leaf. People will often get impatient with the germination process and want to take "helmets" off the second they see a sprout above ground. I've found that the fastest sprouts in a batch of like seeds will often wear a helmet. These are the seeds that sprout fast, sometimes weeks ahead of the average germination rate for a batch from the same pod. Rapid starts like these don't always end up culls; however, from a germination standpoint, they almost always exhibit lopsided growth. This is due largely inpart to phytohormone instruction and above average commitment of stored energy for root initiation vs. cotyledon leaf development. The testa (helmet) allows the first set of leaves to grow under ideal moisture conditions until they naturally unfurl from the protective case and begin the process of photosynthesis. Your seedling will die if cotyledon leaves are allowed to dry. Putting a dome over your seedling to replicate what nature intended for the testa, is advisable; however, you will need to monitor the jump in relative humidity. The problem then becomes balancing moisture levels needed for your cotyledon leaves to properly develop while keeping RH levels down around the stem of your seedling to defend against damping off (fungal infection and mold). If you decide to cover the seedling, I would offer the following suggestions.

Remove bottom heat.

The reccomended temperature range for germination of Capsicum is 70-85 F (James M. Stephens, professor, Horticultural Sciences Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida). I find best results for germination when I use a source of bottom heat to bring the ambient temperature in my incubator to 80F. Once your seeds germinate, bottom heat is no longer necessary and can actually inhibit root development, potentially encourage root rot and lower the amount of available oxyegen in the root area of your seedling (see dissolved oxygen in water). A moist and warm environment is often the spark that initates seedling "damping off".

Suppression with Natural Fungicide

Mist the top of your growing media with Chamomile tea to supress fungal growth and then dust with cinnimon. This is a well tolerated treatment; however, avoid coating the tender stems of your seedlings.

Bottom watering

Pouring water over the soil is a great way to keep the surface of your growing media wet for fungi and mold growth. Water your seedling from the bottom to avoid this and reap the added benifit of greater root development.

I normally cull seedlings like yours to allow others a shot at the title; however, there are times when I let them go for it anyway. If they make progress, the cotyledon leaf unfurls slightly (still tiny) and begins to turn a pale yellow or green color. When the leaves (still small) turn green, it is poised for photosynthesis and may survive. Remove dome, place a little further from the light than other seedlings and make sure to provide breeze from a fan to increase respiration, strenghten stems and keep the surface of the grow media dry.

Best of luck

Matt
 
Your seedling is not dead; however, you removed the seed cap TOO EARLY and have exposed the tender underdeveloped cotyledon leaf. People will often get impatient with the germination process and want to take "helmets" off the second they see a sprout above ground. I've found that the fastest sprouts in a batch of like seeds will often wear a helmet. These are the seeds that sprout fast, sometimes weeks ahead of the average germination rate for a batch from the same pod. Rapid starts like these don't always end up culls; however, from a germination standpoint, they almost always exhibit lopsided growth. This is due largely inpart to phytohormone instruction and above average commitment of stored energy for root initiation vs. cotyledon leaf development. The testa (helmet) allows the first set of leaves to grow under ideal moisture conditions until they naturally unfurl from the protective case and begin the process of photosynthesis. Your seedling will die if cotyledon leaves are allowed to dry. Putting a dome over your seedling to replicate what nature intended for the testa, is advisable; however, you will need to monitor the jump in relative humidity. The problem then becomes balancing moisture levels needed for your cotyledon leaves to properly develop while keeping RH levels down around the stem of your seedling to defend against damping off (fungal infection and mold). If you decide to cover the seedling, I would offer the following suggestions.

Remove bottom heat.

The reccomended temperature range for germination of Capsicum is 70-85 F (James M. Stephens, professor, Horticultural Sciences Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida). I find best results for germination when I use a source of bottom heat to bring the ambient temperature in my incubator to 80F. Once your seeds germinate, bottom heat is no longer necessary and can actually inhibit root development, potentially encourage root rot and lower the amount of available oxyegen in the root area of your seedling (see dissolved oxygen in water). A moist and warm environment is often the spark that initates seedling "damping off".

Suppression with Natural Fungicide

Mist the top of your growing media with Chamomile tea to supress fungal growth and then dust with cinnimon. This is a well tolerated treatment; however, avoid coating the tender stems of your seedlings.

Bottom watering

Pouring water over the soil is a great way to keep the surface of your growing media wet for fungi and mold growth. Water your seedling from the bottom to avoid this and reap the added benifit of greater root development.

I normally cull seedlings like yours to allow others a shot at the title; however, there are times when I let them go for it anyway. If they make progress, the cotyledon leaf unfurls slightly (still tiny) and begins to turn a pale yellow or green color. When the leaves (still small) turn green, it is poised for photosynthesis and may survive. Remove dome, place a little further from the light than other seedlings and make sure to provide breeze from a fan to increase respiration, strenghten stems and keep the surface of the grow media dry.

Best of luck

Matt

Very informative Matt! Thanks a lot
 
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