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Weird growth disparity--Conventional pot v. Smart Pot

I got 10 different strains going all at the same time with the intent of growing one of each. The germination process started approximately on November 1st. In hindsight I realize that 10 gallon pots were a poor choice for first year plants but none the less, 9 went into 10 gallon Smart Pots. The final plant, a Naga Morich went into a conventional plastic pot. I'd guess the size of the pot to be 4 or 5 gallons.

Another stupid error was that I purchased worm castings and fertilizer at a later date so I couldn't thoroughly mix them into the soil. They're at the top, minimally integrated into the soil. Despite my idiocy, all plants look quite healthy and are growing nicely. However, the Naga in the conventional pot is almost twice as large as the second largest Smart Pot plant. The Naga is flowering and growing explosively.

Does the following explanation make sense? When I water the Naga the entire surface of the soil is saturated which results in more nutrients being dissolved and made available. Also, the roots are better able to grow outwards as all of the soil gets wet.

As I'm growing indoors, I shy away from watering the periphery of the Smart Pots as water just streams out the sides. I mainly water the center of the pot leaving the soil at the periphery of the top dry. I'm guessing that this is impeding lateral root growth as well as resulting in inadequate nutrient uptake as that layer of soil remains dry.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
If the water is running out of the smart pots immediately then the medium is too dry. You're going to have to water them from the top and just a little at a time so the water gets absorbed. I wouldn't be surprised if the plants in the smart pots are very thirsty. The advantage of the smart pots, supposedly, is they allow the roots to spread out. When they hit the air outside the lining the root tip dies/hardens and it sends other root tendrils out into the growing medium. In the regular pots the roots are forced to go round and round with very little offshoots developing. You'll get a much fuller root ball with the smart pots. The smart pots being so much larger won't show any advantage in growth over the plastic pot for a while. The plastic potted plant will eventually stop growing as it becomes root bound, the smart pots will allow the roots to get much larger before that happens. That's what the design of the smart pots is supposed to do anyway.

The soil in the smart pots has become hydrophobic. Great word.
 
CapCap: that more than makes sense! Smart pots, root pouches, etc. need to happen outside and with some kinda drip--emitters are best @ .5 gal per hour for an hour. In summer, that's 2X day, using a really breathable/aerated mix, like "Al's mix" or 5-1-1 and I amend to 5-1-1-1 or 5 parts screened pine bark fines, 1 part large perlite, 1 part peat or coir, added dolomite lime (because peat and pine bark fines are super acidic) and a 14-14-14 CRF. I cheat and add a half part vermicompost and half part compost= 1 extra part. I got 7-10 gal plastic nursery pots from h.s. buddy who has tree nursery and they love the smart pots; but, those are to raise trees, transport trees, only outside. Bobby said it'd be a nightmare even trying to start some trees in s-pots or r-pouches in greenhouse because floor would have to be saturated. He also sells some funkier stuff like drinking gourd hostas but since he moves them in/out greenhouses, he only does them in plastic pots. Called another friend who owns HUGE tree nursery and when I asked her, she laughed at the idea of using a smartpot, or cloth pot of any kind, in one of their greenhouses, for same reason. She suggested doing a summer grow in s-pots and if over-wintering, move them to plastic to avoid what you're talking about: the lateral roots just need water to grow to be air-pruned; water in house or greenhouse is a mess and invitation for more trouble with pests than we often face. Now if ya had a big tubs to sit s-pots in, water, remove once saturated, get out the Pyrethrin and be prepped to use it, that'd work. Also there's a fert issue with those s-pots: if they have good drainage, ya flushing ferts. + and -. I'm gonna grab some more 10 or 15 gallon root pouches--less expensive than s-pots (I have used s-pots and even outside had to ask the experts)--and do as they said: outside in summer and then into plastic for overwintering. I mean, you really answered your own question and that's what the pros say as well. Peace. Annie
 
I'm going to have to give some serious thought to re-potting them. It would be such a pain in the ass but I don't want to spend an hour plus watering them and still end up flooding the basement in the process. Any ideas on cheap plastic 5 gallon pots? Maybe buckets from Lowes or Home Depot? It would solve my watering problem and, also, those 10 gallon pots are huge. I'd be able to conserve space allowing me to add more plants.

This is my first year really growing indoors and it has been quite the comedy of errors. It has also been a great learning experience. Thanks Patrick and Anne for the great replies.
 
You can get homer buckets (orange buckets from Home Depot) for a little less than $3 / per. I've been hitting up painters and restaurants in the area for extra 5 gallon buckets.
 
What about the following? I find some cheap, flexible plastic and cut strips that are roughly 5" wide. I then bend them into circles and insert them so that 4" or so is beneath the soil line, hugging the interior wall of the Smart Pot. That way I can flood the Smart Pots and have the water go down into the soil as opposed to out the sides.

Edit: I could even just take plastic trash bags and cut strips. Inserting something so flimsy would be slightly challenging but doable.
 
2 words...
Wally Bags!
CIMG0150.jpg

50¢ each ;) and they are about 4.5Gal
  • Durable
  • Breathable
  • Drainable
  • Cheap
  • Built in ID tags
  • Can find at a Wal-Mart near you
Easily last 1-2 seasons, maybe more... For drainage control in the summer, add a plastic bag around the bottom to help hold in the water.
The only cons so far, They don't make them bigger, and they are blue.
 
Sometimes plants in smart pots develop a "crust" on the surface of the medium. Occasionally you need to pierce or poke through this crust. That allows water to flow down into the soil instead of out of the side of the smart pot. And as mentioned previously water thoroughly and SLOWLY. Smart parts are notorious for moving water around a plants roots, not into the roots.

My experience only, your experience may differ.
 
2 words...
Wally Bags!
CIMG0150.jpg

50¢ each ;) and they are about 4.5Gal
  • Durable
  • Breathable
  • Drainable
  • Cheap
  • Built in ID tags
  • Can find at a Wal-Mart near you
Easily last 1-2 seasons, maybe more... For drainage control in the summer, add a plastic bag around the bottom to help hold in the water.
The only cons so far, They don't make them bigger, and they are blue.

Why oh why hadn't I thought of that before? Great idea. Root pouches are cheap enough but not 50 cents cheap for ~5 gallons. Next time I'm at wally world I'm going pick some up.
 
ARMAC is right about the crust, in any pot soil can compact at the top and form a crust, this can deflect the water to the side.
Putting Mulch on top is an easy fix for this. Also building your soil higher around the sides, making a bowl shape will help.

That picture reminds me, I need to plant some more cilantro for this year :think: Crap I need some tomatoes too.
 
Get the plastic pot saucers. http://www.walmart.c...Saucer/20631641 they come in different sizes and heights. Cheap

armac and cayennemist what you're both describing is called hydrophobic. A smarter person then me found that for me on a different thread.

Actually no. Hydrophobic is the repelling of water, What I am talking about is just simply a crust formed on the top. little bit different.
The crust will still soak up the water, it just takes longer because it is dense. Hydrophobic is more of a repelling of water. Like scotch guard on shoes, where as a crust is comparable to water running off a hard surface, like a sidewalk.

Sorry, just wanted to clarify that.


The reason mulch fixes this problem, it allows for more surface area for water to penetrate, as well as a trap for running water to be slowed down.


Fear of water?
Precisely :scared:
 
Cayennemist I stand corrected. I couldn't find a term for this particular situation. It isn't just a crust that is formed along the top but that's how it begins. If it isn't watered it will eventually go all the way down to the bottom of the pot. I went through it quite a bit last year. The remedy was to just water the heck out of the plant a couple of cups at a time, wait, repeat.
 
Or use a watering can. Slow pour is inevitable with them! I usually start on one side. Water about half of what I think it needs to be watered in every pot them come back around and water the last "half" with a watering can
 
I'm really trying not to flood the basement. As I idiotically went with 10 gallon pots they're squeezed pretty close to each other but I'm going to see if I can make room for the saucers. I'm going to break up the soil and start slowly watering the sides.

I'm going to try something tonight when I water. I'm going to fold some aluminum foil and tuck it into the outermost sides of the respective pots. I'm then going to add some additional soil around the edges. It will be by no means water tight (obviously) but it should give the water more time to be absorbed as opposed to running down the sides.

I'll mulch them either way. If it works then great. If it doesn't then I'll just build up soil around the sides, mulch and water extra slowly.
 
I need to get another bag of quality soil and some mulch to finish this operation. Last night I scooped some soil away from the periphery of each pot, inserted some heavy duty aluminum foil and then push the soil to the edges. I watered even slower than normal and it seemed to go well.

Next year I'm going with conventional pots but, for this year, I think that super slow watering in conjunction with the aluminum foil, elevated soil periphery and mulch should do the trick. A sincere thanks to all of those who confirmed my analysis and provided some invaluable feedback as to how to best remedy the situation.
 
Try this until your soil accepts daily watering.

http://www.yougrowgi...igation-system/

It's supposed to work like a humingbird feeder or hamster water holder.
Water gets sucked out at whatever rate the holes you drill in the cap allow.
I'd suggest starting out with a small hole and don't put more water in the bottle then you think the plant can suck up.
Once your pots easily accept regular watering stop using them...or not...if they don't flood the basement.
 
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