beer DIY Brew Gear

DIY Projects

1. Stir Plate     Click Here
2. Counterflow Wort Chiller Click Here
3. Fermentation Controller  Click Here
4. Corney keg Clean up  Click Here
 
 
Some would say that I'm a hard core DIY'er. Me, I just like building things. There's nothing more satisfying than getting a bunch of raw materials and turning them into something useful. Whether it's some wire and old electronic parts or some grain, hops and yeast. So, this thread is to show exactly, "How'd you do that?" I have several that I'm going to contribute and to start things off here's one that a lot of home brewers have done. I'm going to show how to turn some old computer parts into a stir plate. Since I always have aol computer parts lying around my total investment is under $20.00 U.S.
 
Bill Of Materials:
 
Radio Shack
Project Box 6"x4"x2"                     6.49
25-ohm 3 Watt Rheostat               1.99
SPST Heavy Duty Rocker Switch    .99
Knob                                                .99
Lowes
4 Wood Screws #12 11/2"             1.24
4 Washers 1"                                 1.24
1 Stainless Steel Washer 11/4"       .79
ebay
Computer Fan                               1.79 and up
Hard Drive Magnet                        1.00 and up
9v Power Supply                            Used an old cell phone charger
 
Total                                               17.31
 
The items from Lowes were from Bulk supplied. The steel washer needs to be big enough to cover the center portion of the fan. A lot of these items I already had on hand. The prices that I listed for those items I had on hand are from an internet search at the sources listed.
 
I still need to pick up a switch and a rheostat but the computer parts you'll need are a fan and an old hard drive. Otherwise here's what you'll need.

D74569E3-C5A5-4AAF-A486-55D0F9ADB663_zpshgxtynit.jpg


Ok, the first thing to do is tear down the hard drive. Your going to need a small star point driver for this so if you don't have a set, here's a chance to get one. Breaking it down is pretty straight forward, just remove all the screws, don't forget the one hidden under the label. The tricky part is freeing the magnets from their brackets with out breaking them.

33D5398D-48C5-4879-AEFE-AFECC31DDF81_zpsiqyh5rni.jpg


For this you'll need vise grips and a crescent wrench. Connect them to the bracket like this.

0B7524D9-983F-4185-AB3F-67522A049D75_zpserpzhs0q.jpg


And bend down to break the epoxy they're attached with.

CA654A62-0ABF-4E05-ACF9-199AAA91A6B6_zps44aily5t.jpg


Then just lift it off

2B772B3B-4840-4DAA-B67F-44CFD568627F_zpsp7nvenhh.jpg


Next take the fan and the large washer. Make sure that the magnet will stick to the washer. Now using some super glue attach the washer to the center of the fan and allow to dry. I gave it overnight.

8580BD64-36D1-48F5-ACE1-CD382B8924E8_zpspnrusbly.jpg


Next I had to drill out the fans holes for the mounting screws to tighten with out breaking the edges off. I drilled the holes on the side where the fan moves out so that the screws would pass through and the other side just enough for the screws to tighten up with out breaking.

Moving side, see the washer.

346DCA79-B0A1-4542-A0C0-398940A893F0_zpsp8rlrr4e.jpg


And non moving side

8605F526-98EE-43ED-91B5-44FB14180196_zps2wg7cbce.jpg


I used a nut, under the washer, to give me about. 1/4 inch space so the fan could turn unimpeded. Attach the mounting screws and the magnet.

3E1A1894-52BB-4703-97B0-EFD3A28189C4_zpsp9kwvnws.jpg


Hook up your power temporarily to help in centering the magnet. If it isn't centered it will constantly throw the paddle in the beaker off and the stir plate won't work. You also need to make sure your beaker is centered on the fan magnet.

DF8BD496-FFF3-4B56-BA29-334DEBE75A9B_zpsmf8kr2lp.jpg


Once you have your magnet centered use a sharpie to draw around it. Remove the magnet and place a drop of super glue on each side the carefully put it back in place and allow it to dry overnight.

More to come so stay tuned but that's 10 pics
 
Very cool RM!  Love seeing this type of DIY stuff :)
 
Now it's time to mount the fan to the lid. Put the fan in place and drill 4 pilot holes. Then you want to drill holes big enough that the screw heads are as flat as possible.

92728108-A7BF-46BF-954E-22042FDAC9B1_zpsnrot7yia.jpg


The big washers help with this and also add strength to the area. The nuts while a bit big, help to keep the screws from falling out as well as providing that 1/4 inch space.

A9D4F340-2258-4C20-9323-ABEAA6CC792D_zps12ey55pr.jpg


Slide the fan onto the screws and turn them just enough to get a bite, then tighten them down with your screwdriver.

A948E847-9796-494F-8EFD-691B43C39E8D_zpsvaju68i5.jpg


Next up I'll be installing the switch and rheostat, soldering the connections and finalizing the project.

Cheers
 
Man, I should have thought of this when I started this thread. I'll list the projects in the order their put in along with their number location in the thread.
 
Ok, it's time to wire this puppy up. Here's how the wiring looks.

73A15882-15F8-4AF1-9449-B2E8B46F29FC_zpsefxccczs.jpg


The power comes into the switch (end post) and out to the rheostat (center post).

22161A6C-0CE7-4C54-A064-BE0F4C68ACA2_zpszrsqilar.jpg


There are 3 posts on the rheostat looking at it they are ground, input and output. In this application we won't be using the ground. From the switch we go into the center post and out from the third post to the fan motor.

C8BF5797-7213-4572-AF3A-A6FFFEDFBF56_zpsrgi1jk5z.jpg


Now we can test the connections and see that the switch is turning it off and on and that the rheostat is adjusting the speed of the fan. If everything works it's time to mount them in the box. First remove the switch. Now mount the rheostat in the box and tighten the retaining nut.

4C4C33F8-F811-4CE1-B3DF-0FCCC8F34866_zpspcyw0k1i.jpg

Well, kids are up now, more to follow
 
I have like 4-5x computers (for PS's), with a total of like 12-15x HD's in them (for magnets) ... and another half-dozen or so external HD's ...
 
Maybe I'll DIY a 2nd plate just for fun, one day when I have time ...
 
Before we slip the switch into place you'll want to run the wires through the nut and then out the hole.

102D81B8-4AE0-41C6-A5DD-76242C745695_zpsaxixmrvo.jpg


And make the connections.

02847316-B65A-408C-A407-4BF453BF0DF4_zpsd1kii2hk.jpg


Now run the power chord through the hole in the back and tie a knot in it so it won't pull back out

4D110E09-F243-4930-B902-A9450C33D911_zpsi33f1raq.jpg


And connect the positive to the wire coming from the switch and the negative to the black wire coming off the fan.

4392C841-4739-4627-A6DE-3A2609DEDDCC_zps3g5vcfsj.jpg


Close it up and give it a test run.


Happy Brewing, next project is a Counterflow Wort Cooler
 
Counterflow Wort Chiller

Bill Of Materials:
 
Home Depot
28' 3/8" OD Copper Tubing                         28.99
2  1/2" NPT Brass Tee                                  5.64 ea
2  3/8" x 1/2" MPT Compression Fitting        5.80 ea
4  5/8" x 1/2" MPT Hose Barb                       5.80 ea
4  5/8" Hose Clamps                                       .50 ea
2  1/2" Hose Clamps                                       .40 ea
 
Walmart
25' 5/8" ID Water Hose                                 9.95
 
Amazon
10' 3/8" ID  1/2" OD Silicon Hose                15.85
 
Total                                                          103.67 

6C779F02-5819-44E3-8340-CCEB9722DF4A_zpsjzcqdtxa.jpg


Close up

F09652BA-7236-4A37-8D75-1E269B6CA5A8_zpsvpehmfpb.jpg


Note: I still haven't received the 2 5 ft. Lengths of 3/8" ID Silicon Tubing. Also, having a 5 Gallon C Keg around is really helpful for getting the tubing the right shape.
 
All right, let's build this thing.

First thing to do is to straighten out the copper tubing and the hose. Be gentle with the tubing and it will straighten easily. The hose first we need to cut 38 inches from each end. This will leave us with about 8 inches of tubing sticking out is the hose.

58F9D9CB-A658-4DC7-B9EE-D69A6453D383_zpsgaqvsb7n.jpg


7B6E77EF-2B16-4048-835C-4BB5476EE7D1_zpsnwawqjgk.jpg


I found that a little dab of silicon on the end of the tube would let it slide into the hose very easily

C25D94FC-2946-4075-91B8-7ADEBB5760BE_zpsvf7dl44p.jpg


Oh and leave the plastic covers on the ends too.

Shaping the copper tub and hose assembly proved a little tricky at first. To get the proper shape wrap the hose around a 5 gallon C Keg

95C98769-D537-491A-ADBB-3C8E8168ACB3_zpsahzd1tgz.jpg


I found that using my feet to hold the hose in place made it easier to shape the tubing to the C Keg.

EA336AE6-CEA5-4465-9269-EDF4FC22546B_zpsyoz9jv9p.jpg


The first time I got about half way when I noticed that the tubing was receding back into the hose. I wS finally able to get it though when I put one assembled Brass T on and tightened the hose clamp. As an additional precaution I used a pair of vise grips.

89F69B2B-ADA9-420E-BEC2-8145AF5C2DC4_zpsepprkcxq.jpg


After its basically shaped put the other Brass Tee on and the hose clamp.

E7051EAB-201B-4129-88B8-F99127ABDD1A_zpsqspxd25j.jpg


The only thing left now is to drill out the compression fittings so they'll fit over the tube. The pieces that we cut off the ends are also added to the 2 remaining hose barbs to assist with water flow.

78B0A9A2-EC92-4BAD-A371-41BF5CC35585_zpsp7nnubky.jpg


Stay tuned for the finish and test, still waiting for the Silicon hose to come in.

Cheers
 
grantmichaels said:
good stuff ...
 
looking forward to hearing about your next wort chilling ;) ...
 
I'm going to test it by running a pot full of boiling water through using tap water and see how much of a drop in temp I get before I run out and get a pump so I can flush Ice water through the line.
 
Bumper said:
Tidy work RM!  These builds are a fun part of the hobby for sure.  
 
Thanks, yes they are and I love building my own equipment when I can.
 
Next we need to drill out the compression fitting so it wil fit the 3/8" OD tubing. It's going to be a tight fit so a dab of Silicon grease will help on getting it over the pipe.

Using a good Titanium bit and using the compression fitting as a guide you'll want to slowly press the bit into the brass. Too hard and your bit will bite.

16AEA35E-E41A-4122-8981-71E2A6A3D867_zpsa1szgof6.jpg


Work the fitting over the tubing to the Tee and screw it down tight. Pay attention to the hose barb you don't want it out of position. Once it's screwed down place the compression fitting on and tighten it down.

1B06EB78-B39F-4DCD-AF4A-8F9D97FB92A8_zpsdgpjn4dg.jpg


5BC4381D-937A-43E4-BBC2-A0A5294446C5_zpsxl7bx4ez.jpg


Now add the hose pieces that you cut off to the hose barb The input is the bottom and the out is on top.

DB49A1D7-2A12-4CF2-8859-865118BB5D03_zpsgmeidvz2.jpg


Now if my silicon tubing will just come in
 
I've added a Bill Of Materials and sources for the 2 builds so you can see where to pick up supplies and about what they will run you. I'm also going to add a link to the Fermentation Controller I built a few years ago to the first entry so it's easier to get to for those that might want to build one.
 
Cheers and Happy Brewing
 
That looks like it will do a great job of keeping a mash tun at 150 dF. I'm thinking that this

CC66FC75-9DC6-40AA-9351-A4514EAAD9C5_zpsyvsfllvp.jpg


With a 1440 w water heater element will boil water and is moveable between kettles and attached to a PID it too will keep a MashTun at the right temp also. The PID will also keep an HLT at temp for strik water and again fm for sparge.
 
Cool, I have to make a contraption for continuous sparge. Take the sparge water and let it rain down on the grain bed. Thinking it'll be easy with some 1/2" PVC.
 
Back
Top