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Is this a nutrient issue?

This is a Butch T in a 6" pot.  The deep green is because it gets very little direct sun.  Plant is in MGMC and I hit it with MG AP 24-8-16 about every three weeks.  It is not exposed to rain so there is no washout.
 
8HZ8R3J.jpg

 
Note that the basal shoot that is pale like the new growth up top.
pwGZdXN.jpg

 
Of the 35 in containers, I have 4 other plants that are showing similar symptoms, though they haven't gotten to the point that new growth is pale (chlorotic?):  the CSB in the second pic above, another Butch T, and two Big Sun Habs, the latter three in large pots.  A couple of the leaves on those are also showing pale fringes.
 
Has anyone seen something similar?  I've been through many of the online "Visual ID of Nute Deficiency/Toxicity" sites and can find nothing that corresponds. 
 
Dennis
 
DMF, that was rude of you. Do you want help or not?

Get off the MG. It's like a hard drug, it'll f1 s*** up. Use something that is beneficial. Like a fish or kelp fertilizer. Preferably something that is organic. Over time it will build your soil up, not kill it like MG.
 
Gee, thanks for the welcome:  "You're an idiot.  Do it all different."  And I'm rude?
 
I have been growing for years with this setup and various modifications.  NO problems, save the occasional need for Ca/Mg boost for some of the heavy users. 
 
The question remains.  If this is a nutrient problem, what is it?
 
"Visual ID of Nute Deficiency/Toxicity" sites and can find nothing that corresponds. 
 
Dennis
 
 
Might wanna look at iron again.

Usually iron def is caused by pH problems.
ThePepperTrent said:
DMF, that was rude of you. Do you want help or not?

Get off the MG. It's like a hard drug, it'll f1 s*** up. Use something that is beneficial. Like a fish or kelp fertilizer. Preferably something that is organic. Over time it will build your soil up, not kill it like MG.
 
You realize these are in pots?
 
DMF said:
Gee, thanks for the welcome:  "You're an idiot.  Do it all different."  And I'm rude?
 
I have been growing for years with this setup and various modifications.  NO problems, save the occasional need for Ca/Mg boost for some of the heavy users. 
 
The question remains.  If this is a nutrient problem, what is it?
Wow let's not get nasty!! We're all here for the same reason no need to call people names brother. No one is questioning your experience. This is common people just throwing out ideas :)
And welcome to the forum !! :)
 
DMF said:
Gee, thanks for the welcome:  "You're an idiot.  Do it all different."  And I'm rude?
 
I have been growing for years with this setup and various modifications.  NO problems, save the occasional need for Ca/Mg boost for some of the heavy users. 
 
The question remains.  If this is a nutrient problem, what is it?
Hmm I guess since you've been growing for years you should be able to handle it yourself. Get your head out of your arse.
 
Baseman said:
I'd say it's more a MG problem! Get different nutes!
 
MG yellowing happens between the veins. Obviously on the older leaves its happening to the veins.
 
Which brings me to the next symptom, yellow to white new growth, some of which happens to be a lower branch. But its also at the main growth tip.
 
DMF said:
 It is not exposed to rain so there is no washout.
 
You ever give it plain water?

ThePepperTrent said:
No shit Sherlock. Pots have soil in them do they not?
 
How do you expect stuff to "build up over time" in a pot that needs the mix changed about once a year?
 
No they have potting mix in them.

oldsalty said:
Ok ok let's not beat up a new member gang!! :) everyone gets crazy when are plants are stressed!! Lol
 
Or try to beat up an older member. :D
 
DMF said:
  The deep green is because it gets very little direct sun.  
 
     You have it backwards. Intense light will cause dark green growth. A lack thereof will cause pale, etiolated growth at meristems - like you are seeing. Get them some more light and it ought to correct your problem.
     Good luck!
 
ThePepperTrent said:
Eh we don't mind beating you up. You're a you know what so it's all good :)
 
if by that you mean knowing and giving the right answer without calling anyone names then yes
 
if we are all honest, baseman gave a completely wrong answer followed by vague advice...
MG AP has iron, so pH.
 
ThePepperTrent said:
No shit Sherlock. Pots have soil in them do they not?
 
     Using soil for a container grow is probably a bad idea. Unless you use tons of perlite. Even then, it tends to get rock hard when it dries and is pretty hard to rehydrate.
     I think most folks around here who grow in containers would agree that soilless mix is the way to go.
 
Wow!  Such passion.  Maybe I came to the right place.  :dance:  
 
Heckle, sulfur also caught my eye, but it doesn't really fit either.  Here's the best I found for iron:
 
New leaves are the most symptomatic and when condition is most severe they can be all yellow or white but still have green veins.
Pale, yes.  There is a hair-thin green color to the veins.  Suggestive.
 
Overall you see yellow leaves with green veins leading to marginal scorching or browning of leaf tips.
None of this.  The oldest leaves seem unaffected. 
 
Tip leaves, especially basal areas of leaflets, intense chlorotic mottling; stem near tip also yellow.
I don't how to interpret most of this.  The stem is not yellow at the tips, though a few show purple streaks in the leaf stem, extending part way up into the leaf.
 
Fruits have poor color.
N/A.  Nothing has produced yet.
 
Shoot diameter is small.
Not that I noticed.
 
Iron deficit often occurs when the soil pH is higher than 7.5 meaning it is more alkaline.
IIRC, base MCMG is around 6.0.  This is my first year using D/FW tap water.  I don't think it's alkaline, but I'll check.  There is some dissolved mineral content.  In any event, all 35 pots get the same water.
 
Lack of Fe is common in plants living next to concrete walls, foundations etc.
This is a balcony grow with a concrete slab.  But only large pots are sitting on concrete.  The smaller, most affected, pots are all on racks.
 
Additional observations:  The affected new leaves seem stunted or misshapen, though not badly so.   The basal shoot that is all pale has something else going on - the larger leaves are finely mottled and are thin, almost brittle.  I'll see if I can get a revealing pic.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
 
     You have it backwards. Intense light will cause dark green growth. A lack thereof will cause pale, etiolated growth at meristems - like you are seeing. Get them some more light and it ought to correct your problem.
     Good luck!
 
Thanks, but I didn't say no light.  I said no direct sun.  There is plenty of light - 14 hours of bright shade.  I rented this place because it has a southern exposure above the trees.  But I rented when the sun was low and didn't realize that at the solstice the balcony is in full shade.  (And only my balcony.  Most of the others on this side of the building get good sun.)  Now that the solstice has passed the big pots along the railing get up to 3 hours of sun, which time will improve as the year goes on. 
 
Frankly, I'm surprised at how well the plants are doing without full sun.  The Brazilian Starfish seem especially comfortable without.  I'm sure that I'll have better growth with sun.  Fortunately, we have a long growing season here.  (Double fortunate because I got a late start this year - late March.)
Heckle said:
 
You ever give it plain water?
 Most of the time.  I also let the water sit for as long as possible to off-gas.
 
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