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HOW TO BUILD AN LED GROWLIGHT

DIY LED GROWLIGHT INDOOR LIGHTING

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#1 N8thaniel

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 06:27 AM

There is a lot of interest in LED growlights and for good reason they are highly efficient, but you know whats better? they r fun and easy to build, not to mention pretty cheap to DIY compared to HPS(based on $ per ppf)

 

I have threads on those "other" gardening sites which I will copy and paste info out of but will keep this one very simple and not go into the tech stuff too much. Instead I will share some youtube vids of how to assemble and give a few of the best options for us pepper heads to start with. I you do come across my other threads( you will know by the way I type and if you do a google search) plz don't post my alter identity openly here or I would have to close my account and delete all my threads for security reasons which would be a shame for others who will miss out on this info-you can pm me or post in those forums, thanks

 

I'm going to make some assumptions about you, the reader(if this is not you dont be offended it's just the premise for communication I'm working off): you grow peppers and your not an electrical engineer but you dont mind drilling and possible using a soldering iron if you absolutely have to but you dont wanna go and buy any tools for this project and you want to do it as cheaply and easily as possible. For light recomendations I am assuming you will run your lights 16-18hrs per day and you believe in science so will want a DLI of 18-20+ to fruit and 14-18 for Veg /indoors preseason/seedlings which translates into 310-400ppfd+ for flower(obviously more the better but we aint all as rich as scrooge mcduck) and around 180-250ppfd for veg which is tricky to convert into Lumens because it depends on the efficiency of the chip but we can estimate that 2800-3500+( I honestly think 3000 is the min you should consider) Lumens per sq ft is in the flower range and  1200-1800+ Lumens per sq ft for veg.( this is assuming white LEDs that put out all light within PAR spectrum)

 

there are plenty of videos on youtube about this but this guy goes slow and uses screws and grease to mount(the only mounting option to consider with high power leds[10w and up]) so its very similar to what we are doing(obviously we are not using the exact same chips) go ahead and watch the first 2 episodes 

 

 

 

1)to Build your  led grow-light you will need:


Chip(s)
Driver(s)
Heatsink(s)

Bits/tools: screwswireTIM(see mechanical design) drill and/or soldering iron(see mechanical design)

2)to choose your parts first select your chips then drivers then heatsinks( this will absolutly make your life easier and avoid ending up with the wrong parts)

 

I wont say too much about matching components or anything techy(post below if u have questions) ill just provide some decent builds for cheap

 

Think of these as DIY LED GROWLIGHT KITS, you buy the parts from the links and assemble them yourself

 

A quick note on design parameters:

1:In all these builds we will be using 40% or more efficient white LEDs and aim for 140Lumens per watt as a minimum and will be aiming for a slightly blue-er spectrum to promote shorter bushier plants.

2:we will be using passive cooling(that is without fans to aid the heatsink-with fans on these sinks heat dissipation will increase exponentially) 

3: all designs will be modular so that you can scale them up as needed but more importantly so that you can hand the lights where they are needed in your garden regardless of shape/size

 

 

Build Kit #1

the ' I'm not in America ' Kit for Indoor Fruiting

Includes Veg/Bloom mode and is dimmable ( addition parts needed) 
 

[Price: $142.63] [Skills Required: Drilling] [Tools Required: Drill  (no soldering needed)] [65watts=9350Lumens=good for fruiting up to 3 sq ft]

 

 

free shipping from digikey on orders over $100  :dance:

 

DIGIKEY SHOPPING CART SCREENSHOT

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-27%20at%2022.18.

 

FASTECH SHOPPING CART SCREEN SHOT

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-19%20at%2000.54.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fruiting model's spectrum(4x3500k+2x5000k=9350Lumens=suitable for up to 3sq ft)

 

user440987_pic1526658_1447891685_zpsztte

 

 

user440987_pic1526603_1447882532_zpsdllr

 

user440987_pic1526740_1447923814_zpsv2jk

 

 

 

Veg model spectrum(10,000Lumens=suitable for up to 8sq ft)

 

user440987_pic1526659_1447891685_zpstumg

 

SHOPPING LIST (fruiting model)   (veging model)

(6x solderless connector) http://www.digikey.c....594-ND/3880994  (x6)

(1x thermal grease) http://www.digikey.c....1006-ND/340304  (x1)

(4x vero 13 3500K) http://www.digikey.c....265-ND/5180237 (none)

(2x 5000k vero 13) http://www.digikey.c....278-ND/5180250 (x6)

(1x[100 pack] #4 self tapping screws) http://www.digikey.c....H800-ND/333049 (x1)

(1x Constant Current Dimmable driver)  http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=184781092&uq=635842340233299643 (x1)  (actually u can run all chips on this 1 driver so if u dont want a sperate veg mode dont worry about the fastech driver)

(6x heatsink) https://www.fasttech...roducts/1348407  (x6)

(1x driver for VEG [2x vero 5000k 13] https://www.fasttech...0008256/1739206  (x1)

 

 

BUILD KIT #2

 

if u really dont wanna wait for deliver from china

the 'All American' 

Bloom mode Only and is dimmable (additional parts required)
[Price: $100.14] [Skills Required: Drilling] [Tools Required: Drill] [43W/6200Lumens-good all round kit for fruiting in 2 sq ft or if using all 5000k good for veging in about 4.5 sq ft]

 

 

DIGIKEY SHOPPING CART SCREENSHOT

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-27%20at%2021.53.

 

 

HEATSINK SHOPPING CART

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-27%20at%2021.56.

 

 

 

user440987_pic1526604_1447882814_zpsmlrn

 

 

SHOPPING LIST

(4inches per cob heatsink u decide if u want 1 long bar or 2 bars or 4 etc) http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850/

(6x solderless connector) http://www.digikey.c....594-ND/3880994

(1x thermal grease) http://www.digikey.c....1006-ND/340304

(6x vero 13 3500K) http://www.digikey.c....265-ND/5180237

(1x[100 pack] #4 self tapping screws) http://www.digikey.c....H800-ND/333049

(1x Constant Current Dimmable driver) http://www.digikey.c...2340233299643 

 

 

BUILD KIT # 3

 

the 'Mammoth'
Includes Veg/Bloom mode but is not dimmable-best value for money

[Price: $181.32] [Skills Required: Drilling] [Tools Required: Drill] [139W: as fruiting light=19,200Lumens in Bloom mode/ 6700Lumens in VEG mode(good for 6.5 sq ft) as VEG light(all 5000k)=20,000Lumens(good for up to 13 sq ft]

 

 

DIGIKEY SHOPPING CART SCREENSHOT FOR FRUIT/VEG LIGHT(6-7sq ft)

 

 

user440987_pic1526922_1447946293_zpsljjw

 

 

DIGIKEY SHOPPING CART SCREENSHOT FOR VEG ONLY LIGHT(13sq ft)

user440987_pic1526921_1447946117_zpsmjfw

 

 

FASTECH SHOPPING CART SCREENSHOT

user440987_pic1526941_1447947411_zpsdwrk

 

SHOPPING LIST (for fruit/veg(as a veg panel) no blue=same as micro

(12x solderless connector) http://www.digikey.c....594-ND/3880994

(1x thermal grease) http://www.digikey.c....1006-ND/340304

(8x vero 13 3500K) http://www.digikey.c....265-ND/5180237 (none)

(4x 5000k vero 13) http://www.digikey.c....278-ND/5180250 (x12)

(1x[100 pack] #4 self tapping screws) http://www.digikey.c....H800-ND/333049


(12x heatsink) https://www.fasttech...roducts/1348407 


(6x driver[2 cobs in series per driver] https://www.fasttech...0008256/1739206

 

 

 

 

 

the most cost effective is the 'Mammoth'

 

and you can add more modules by adding

 

2 more chips and 2 more connectors to ur digi cart

 

plus 1 extra heatsink and 1 extra driver to ur fasttech cart

 

each extra module will give about 3100 Lumens with the 3500k spectrum

 

WATCH THESE FOR STEPS

  

dont touch the fried egg

 

how to connect wires

 

applying the grease (2:00-3:40)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbcC_31y-pc

 

instructions for hyper deluxe 

 

1)you will mount 2 chips to each heatsink ( 1 per sink for the all  american)  by drilling holes* for the screws and then apply the grease (youtube vids for all this there r so many out there) and finally screwing the chips down (through the screw holes on the chip) to the heatsink.

 

2)then we will click the harness into the chips and wire in series** to the driver***, the 4 3500K chips go on the driver from digikey, the 2 5000k drivers go on the other driver from fastech( the american uses only the digikey driver with 4 chips, the mamoth uses only the fastech driver with 2 chips per driver). this is so you can run only the 5000K chips when ur plants are young and tender. also u may need a bit more wire depending on where you wanna put the driver-id prob have the cable long enough to put it outside the cab[incase its hot] but still be able to bring it into the cab for extra heat if i needed it[incase its cold or i wanna use them as a heatmat for germinating].

 

3) add a plug*** to the drivers ac side and hang the sinks above ur plants- u can wire all your drivers to a single plug to go into the timer( make sure all the - go - together and the + go to +[parallel}

 

done

 

 

 

*

Screen%20shot%202015-11-18%20at%2022.43.

 

** wiring in series

user440987_pic1446097_1433055469_zps8u6o

 

***

 

you can use 2-Way Terminal Block Connectors or anything really

Screen%20shot%202015-11-19%20at%2015.12.

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-19%20at%2015.10.

 

 

 

 

 

If you wanna play around with spectrum you should.

as mentioned Ive used a blue-er light for the recomended spectrum than some like

 

http://www.bmlcustom...stom-led-strip/(u have to fill all 15 diode slots but just do the same ratio and the spectrum will be right-also dont worry about thier numbers they use less efficient chips then these)

 

here it is with 4x2700K and 2x5000K

user440987_pic1526718_1447919041_zps5ba8

 

 

Here is 3000K

user440987_pic1526761_1447925529_zpsxdte

 

 

All chips from this series(ie that you can swap around whatever u like) will work in these quantities on these drivers with these heatsinks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3000k vero 13
http://www.digikey.c....258-ND/5180230

5000k vero 13
http://www.digikey.c....278-ND/5180250

3500k vero 13
http://www.digikey.c....265-ND/5180237

2700K vero 13
http://www.digikey.c....241-ND/5180213

non dimming driver for 4x vero 13
http://www.digikey.c....078-ND/2786576

 

 

(driver for for 1x vero 13) https://www.fasttech....rent-isolation

 

 

(best value heat sinks) heatsinkusa.com 

use these insteadd for mamoth/ in general if you can get them shipped to your location(i cant)

 

highlights for passive cooling are

 

best value( about 20w per ft without fans- eg 14 inches of this per 2 vero13 cobs)

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079/

 

almost 40w per ft

http://www.heatsinku...minum-heatsink/http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079/

 

50w per ft  but great for active cooling with a 120mm pc fan run at 5v would handle 150w

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-900/

 

 

 

driver for another build )http://www.aliexpres...1960400745.html

 

 

 

http://www.digikey.c...1280-ND/4833140

 

 

http://www.digikey.c...1274-ND/4833134

uploading images and then reposting them here takes time-im burned out for today but seems there is no pic count per post so ill just make this an incredibly long post- I have 2 more small designs to share and then a few bigger ones too


Edited by N8thaniel, 18 March 2016 - 06:38 PM.

my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


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#2 juanitos

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 09:26 AM

bump if you need it


juanitospeppers.com - seeds, plants, fresh peppers


#3 BSH

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 11:35 AM

Thanks for posting!  I think this will be my winter project since I like soldering and am looking to fruit indoors.  Looking forward to the next post.



#4 N8thaniel

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 12:04 PM

Thanks for posting!  I think this will be my winter project since I like soldering and am looking to fruit indoors.  Looking forward to the next post.

 

 

Thanks guys

 

I have 4 more small lamp desighns to put up($70 with soldering for 2sq ft fruiting, $100-smaller version of the above system but nothing ordered from china-suitable for 2sq ft fruiting/4sq ft as a veg, and a massive version of the above($180 with 12 chips suitable for 6.5 sq ft to fruit or probably about 12sq ft for veg)

 

Then Ill get into the really big systems or do you think thats enough for a pepper forum?

 

all desighns here are roughly 40% more efficient than HID lighting FYI


my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#5 N8thaniel

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 01:23 PM

 

 

Thanks guys

 

I have 4 more small lamp desighns to put up($70 with soldering for 2sq ft fruiting, $100-smaller version of the above system but nothing ordered from china-suitable for 2sq ft fruiting/4sq ft as a veg, and a massive version of the above($180 with 12 chips suitable for 6.5 sq ft to fruit or probably about 12sq ft for veg)

 

Then Ill get into the really big systems or do you think thats enough for a pepper forum?

 

all desighns here are roughly 40% more efficient than HID lighting FYI

all the basic builds are up

 

ill leave it for now and if ppl want other lights just ask-i have plenty more i can shift over to this forum

 

thanks


my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#6 BSH

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 01:31 PM

What am I looking at for let's say...4 sq.ft at 4000 lumens?  I would like to go above your recommended 3000 lumens per sq. ft to guarantee fruiting.  Do you have an idea of what that would look like?  You can put it on here or PM me...I would really appreciate either one because my wife wants to get me something for Christmas and I could just ask her to grab me all this stuff.  I'm in Canada and am looking at the Canadian Newark.com for parts.  Thanks!



#7 N8thaniel

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 05:06 PM

What am I looking at for let's say...4 sq.ft at 4000 lumens?  I would like to go above your recommended 3000 lumens per sq. ft to guarantee fruiting.  Do you have an idea of what that would look like?  You can put it on here or PM me...I would really appreciate either one because my wife wants to get me something for Christmas and I could just ask her to grab me all this stuff.  I'm in Canada and am looking at the Canadian Newark.com for parts.  Thanks!

 

 

well how many sq ft are u trying to cover? =D i recomend 2500-3500+

 

 

 

edit oh i see you have 4 sq ft

 

 build the mamoth


Edited by N8thaniel, 19 November 2015 - 05:14 PM.

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my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#8 BSH

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 07:19 PM

 

 

well how many sq ft are u trying to cover? =D i recomend 2500-3500+

 

 

 

edit oh i see you have 4 sq ft

 

 build the mamoth

It's called "the Mammoth"..I HAVE to build it lol



#9 smokemaster

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 08:46 PM

I've been a fan of 1Watt Leds.

Mainly since I WANT TO TRY and use EVERY wave length that PEPPER plants need.

Yup 1 Watt LEDS are about the same as far as power usage as Flouros.

 

I watt Led stars AND 10mm LEDS work for my SHELVES better.

Only reason I'm posting here is,I get enough pods on my shelves to freshen up my seeds stock.

 

I'm sure/Positive that my opinion isn't worth much as far as a TOTAL INDOOR production grow grows or needs.

I grow starts under MY Leds,to get a few packs of pure seeds.

I did grow SEVERAL very Large plants at times in Hydro under MY 1 Watt panels.

 

But I do what I do.What works for me...

 

I made ALL MY panels and re adjusted the NM to do what MY grow needed.

 

I ONLY grow Chilis.

In lights to supply pods/seeds for a seed bank I moderate.

What works for me might SUCK for your grow.

All my plants go outside once I get a few packs of pure seeds.


Edited by smokemaster, 19 November 2015 - 09:03 PM.


#10 N8thaniel

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 12:26 AM

I've been a fan of 1Watt Leds.

Mainly since I WANT TO TRY and use EVERY wave length that PEPPER plants need.

Yup 1 Watt LEDS are about the same as far as power usage as Flouros.

 

I watt Led stars AND 10mm LEDS work for my SHELVES better.

Only reason I'm posting here is,I get enough pods on my shelves to freshen up my seeds stock.

 

I'm sure/Positive that my opinion isn't worth much as far as a TOTAL INDOOR production grow grows or needs.

I grow starts under MY Leds,to get a few packs of pure seeds.

I did grow SEVERAL very Large plants at times in Hydro under MY 1 Watt panels.

 

But I do what I do.What works for me...

 

I made ALL MY panels and re adjusted the NM to do what MY grow needed.

 

I ONLY grow Chilis.

In lights to supply pods/seeds for a seed bank I moderate.

What works for me might SUCK for your grow.

All my plants go outside once I get a few packs of pure seeds.

 

 

right on

 

thats actually axactly what cobs are( strings of lil LEDs packadged into a big chip)

 

these r however more efficient and seen as these designs massively under-drive them they get real nice 

 

there is another build(the el cheapo) coming using bitty leds(43w/6000L/ $70)

 

stay tuned


my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#11 JohnsMyName

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 07:41 AM

Truly impressive and thorough N8thaniel, many thanks!

#12 smokemaster

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 07:13 PM

My stuff in 1 Watt LEDS is 300 stars overhead on my 4ft. X 18in. shelves.

My shelves are about 19 inches apart.

I mount my LEDs on sheets of Aluminum that are about 1/16 in. thick+ X 16in.X16in.

THEY NEED NO COOLING!

3 watt LEDS couldn't be mounted as close together and overheated.

1 watt LEDS also put out more LM and nm-AT THE TIME I PURCHASED THEM.

AT a lot lower price.

Something to consider...The LM's (regulators) do need cooling-each power source/regulator box needs a computer fan.

 

I use 1 panel of 10mm Leds vertically(110+ Leds) on the 2 ends,4 across the back.

 

AS I said,you gotta turn them off before you look at your starts.

I LOVE seeing an 8in. plant looking like a small hedge.

 

As I said,what works for me IS MY GROW.

There are several people on this site that MY LEDS would suck for their grow.

 

I respect Willard as posting info more geared to an indoor grow.

Not what I do.

A long time ago we bumped heads about LEDS.

I'm more informed now about specific growing conditions and PEPPER plant needs.

My grow had nothing to do with what he does.

He has a totally different thing going on as far as lighting his grow.

He has taught me a lot over time.

He knows his stuff...

 

As I said,my grow is what I do and what works for me.

 

I'd like to check out what Willard posted about the Larger WHITE Leds he posted a few years back about.

Mostly in 5000K -6500K that I've read about in higher watts and plant specific LM. as far as Peppers go.

 

BUT I spent my $ on my LEDS years ago.

Can't afford new toys now.

I read a LOT of European posts about using white LED spot lights for indoor grows for vegetables/Peppers with great success.

 

Lots of options out there.

You just gotta get past the "you gotta use this or that" type stuff.

Most stuff is from the early indoor pot farmers-in general.

Things have evolved to a LOT of what the stuff we took for granted is fact isn't true for different plants and grows.

Even the thing about red and blue to get blooms is proving false.

It seems to be more of a matter of LM than specific NM of light,to some extent.

 

Light sources change as to the affordability of them in use and purchase price.

 

I am sure I'm out of date with my LEDS.

They last so long that it'll be years before I check out the new stuff.

Until my old 1 watters fry,I'll have no interest in anything other than driving them cheeper.

 

LEDS these days are a LOT cheeper than years ago.A LOT Cheaper AND put out a lot more LM.

But I see little NM selection in the higher watt,less watt per lm.or more expensive stuff.

Probably why people are trying to use white in 6500-5000K White Leds these days.

I find the thing about 3500k for peppers doesn't work FOR MY GROW.

5000-6500k seems to work best for me.

 

Nothing is set in stone!

ech changes by the day.

This is a really cool post.

But MAYBE if some one wanted to,add links to older posts about LEDS just for a frame of refferense.

 

Good things happening here,as with other LED posts.

Tech changes by the min.

Specific grows need different lighting.

 

I'd like to see this post just updating the new Tech,BUT also deal with specific grows.

A Lot of times I posted about MY grow as what was what everyone should consider doing.

I eventually got smarter and learned what worked for me wasn't what would work for others,their grow or?

 

I really like LED posts as long as people don't just quote vendors stuff because they have a specific product.

 

It's a breath of fresh air when anyone posts about something they built rather than I have a brand x panel that works for them.

 

To me the posts about a growers HOME MADE light source is better.

No popular opinions,as here,just an info exchange by the guys who built stuff and what to check out or not check out.

IT IS important to read the posters grow.

A Lot more honest info than people who just purchased a panel.

Not trying to give people crap for liking their lights that they purchased.

I just would like to see more info geared to homemade stuff.

 

OH NO!

Another LONG post. lol

Gonna get longer.LOL

 

What I use as a nm for plants referrence.

 

380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.

 

400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)

 

520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.

 

610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding) The ratio of red (660nm) to far red (730nm) in sunlight is about 1.2:1

 

720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by Chlorophyll here, but Phytochrome uses a nice portion. Flowering and germination is influenced. Near and above the higher end of the band is the Infrared spectrum, which can also be heat and could cause elongation or affect water absorption/transpiration.

 

Many of these plant pigments have dual wavelength peaks that can be activated with led light combinations:The visible colors of light from shortest to longest wavelength are: violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, and red. Ultraviolet radiation has a shorter wavelength than the visible violet light. Infrared radiation has a longer wavelength than visible red light. White light is

 

Beta-carotene 450nm 480-485nm dual peak

chlorophyll a 430nm 662nm dual peak

chlorophyll b 453nm 642nm dual peak

phycoerythrin 590nm single peak

phycocyanin 625nm single peak

a mixture of the colors of the visible spectrum. Here is a summary of wavelengths (nm). If you are building your own LED Grow Lights it may be of help when selecting LEDs for your project.

 

200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is generally harmful to plants. LEDs in this spectrum are non-existant or very expensive.

 

280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade. UV LEDs in this range are now available and coming down in price.

 

315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to most plants.


Edited by smokemaster, 20 November 2015 - 07:51 PM.


#13 Weed

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 09:14 PM


phycoerythrin 590nm single peak

phycocyanin 625nm single peak

 

These two are only present in some algae and cyanobacteria.


afaik


We are airy nothings.


#14 smokemaster

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 10:42 PM

I have no clue.

 

The data I posted was what I used to build my lights.

Nothing more,I am NOT an expert on lighting OR plants needs.

 

Using the stuff I CAN MAYBE get from manipilating my 1 Watt and 10mm Leds is what I do.( nm and lm)

 

Nothing is set in stone as far as I know.

 

As I said,I only know what works for MY shelves.

 

I have seen several things online about making a spectrometer.

Until I can build one or use one,I only THINK my LEDS put out what the Data sheets say they will at a given voltage or MA.

A CD used as a prism works to see the different bands of light.

Doesn't tell you the actual NM.

Just if you are in the ball park.

 

Everything I've posted means only my personal observations.

Nothing more.

 

MY grow shelves using the LEDs I have.

 

Info from years ago that I based my light source on YEARS ago.

 

I posted,until my LEDS frie,I'll use them.

Lot of advances are being discovered as far as lighting and what DIFFERENT plants need all the time.

 

You may have a valid point,argue with the author of what i copied about plant light needs.

 

I don't know about the current thing about UV light and infa red either.

 

From what I read,IF I use the LEDS I do they MAY or MAY not produce much of either.

 

Other stuff I read as far as infa red and UV sounds like my LEDs couldn't produce either.

 

My post was what I do for my grow.

 

What I built YEARS ago AND works for ME.

 

NOT that I am an expert or posting ANYTHING EVERYONE should do.

I am not a Vendor posting BS to sell my product.

IF anyone wants to check out my observations or discount them.

It is cool to me.

The discussion is based,I Think on giving people access to observations about LEDS other than advertising stuff to sell their product.

 

There are SEVERAL posts,some VERY good on home builds on this site.

Others are reports on panels that people purchased and are using with different grows and different results.

 

I think in general,people want to see what worked for their grow,not why 590 or 625nm might or might not be in their light mix.

 

I THINK most LED data sheets suck.

they test 1 out of a bunch of Leds,depends on that batch that maybe 1 was tested...

 

LEDS are rated as whatever nm they put out the most of at any specific MA and voltage.

People don't realise that no matter what you run any specific LED at it can ONLY put out what it was designed to put out.

A very limited range of NM.

LM and nm only change according to the specific LED.

 

Isn't this post about LEDS?

Building your own?

 

I just posted what I use and why,nothing more.



#15 N8thaniel

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 05:34 AM

My stuff in 1 Watt LEDS is 300 stars overhead on my 4ft. X 18in. shelves.

My shelves are about 19 inches apart.

I mount my LEDs on sheets of Aluminum that are about 1/16 in. thick+ X 16in.X16in.

THEY NEED NO COOLING!

3 watt LEDS couldn't be mounted as close together and overheated.

1 watt LEDS also put out more LM and nm-AT THE TIME I PURCHASED THEM.

AT a lot lower price.

Something to consider...The LM's (regulators) do need cooling-each power source/regulator box needs a computer fan.

 

I use 1 panel of 10mm Leds vertically(110+ Leds) on the 2 ends,4 across the back.

 

AS I said,you gotta turn them off before you look at your starts.

I LOVE seeing an 8in. plant looking like a small hedge.

 

As I said,what works for me IS MY GROW.

There are several people on this site that MY LEDS would suck for their grow.

 

I respect Willard as posting info more geared to an indoor grow.

Not what I do.

A long time ago we bumped heads about LEDS.

I'm more informed now about specific growing conditions and PEPPER plant needs.

My grow had nothing to do with what he does.

He has a totally different thing going on as far as lighting his grow.

He has taught me a lot over time.

He knows his stuff...

 

As I said,my grow is what I do and what works for me.

 

I'd like to check out what Willard posted about the Larger WHITE Leds he posted a few years back about.

Mostly in 5000K -6500K that I've read about in higher watts and plant specific LM. as far as Peppers go.

 

BUT I spent my $ on my LEDS years ago.

Can't afford new toys now.

I read a LOT of European posts about using white LED spot lights for indoor grows for vegetables/Peppers with great success.

 

Lots of options out there.

You just gotta get past the "you gotta use this or that" type stuff.

Most stuff is from the early indoor pot farmers-in general.

Things have evolved to a LOT of what the stuff we took for granted is fact isn't true for different plants and grows.

Even the thing about red and blue to get blooms is proving false.

It seems to be more of a matter of LM than specific NM of light,to some extent.

 

Light sources change as to the affordability of them in use and purchase price.

 

I am sure I'm out of date with my LEDS.

They last so long that it'll be years before I check out the new stuff.

Until my old 1 watters fry,I'll have no interest in anything other than driving them cheeper.

 

LEDS these days are a LOT cheeper than years ago.A LOT Cheaper AND put out a lot more LM.

But I see little NM selection in the higher watt,less watt per lm.or more expensive stuff.

Probably why people are trying to use white in 6500-5000K White Leds these days.

I find the thing about 3500k for peppers doesn't work FOR MY GROW.

5000-6500k seems to work best for me.

 

Nothing is set in stone!

ech changes by the day.

This is a really cool post.

But MAYBE if some one wanted to,add links to older posts about LEDS just for a frame of refferense.

 

Good things happening here,as with other LED posts.

Tech changes by the min.

Specific grows need different lighting.

 

I'd like to see this post just updating the new Tech,BUT also deal with specific grows.

A Lot of times I posted about MY grow as what was what everyone should consider doing.

I eventually got smarter and learned what worked for me wasn't what would work for others,their grow or?

 

I really like LED posts as long as people don't just quote vendors stuff because they have a specific product.

 

It's a breath of fresh air when anyone posts about something they built rather than I have a brand x panel that works for them.

 

To me the posts about a growers HOME MADE light source is better.

No popular opinions,as here,just an info exchange by the guys who built stuff and what to check out or not check out.

IT IS important to read the posters grow.

A Lot more honest info than people who just purchased a panel.

Not trying to give people crap for liking their lights that they purchased.

I just would like to see more info geared to homemade stuff.

 

OH NO!

Another LONG post. lol

Gonna get longer.LOL

 

What I use as a nm for plants referrence.

 

380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.

 

400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)

 

520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.

 

610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding) The ratio of red (660nm) to far red (730nm) in sunlight is about 1.2:1

 

720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by Chlorophyll here, but Phytochrome uses a nice portion. Flowering and germination is influenced. Near and above the higher end of the band is the Infrared spectrum, which can also be heat and could cause elongation or affect water absorption/transpiration.

 

Many of these plant pigments have dual wavelength peaks that can be activated with led light combinations:The visible colors of light from shortest to longest wavelength are: violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, and red. Ultraviolet radiation has a shorter wavelength than the visible violet light. Infrared radiation has a longer wavelength than visible red light. White light is

 

Beta-carotene 450nm 480-485nm dual peak

chlorophyll a 430nm 662nm dual peak

chlorophyll b 453nm 642nm dual peak

phycoerythrin 590nm single peak

phycocyanin 625nm single peak

a mixture of the colors of the visible spectrum. Here is a summary of wavelengths (nm). If you are building your own LED Grow Lights it may be of help when selecting LEDs for your project.

 

200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is generally harmful to plants. LEDs in this spectrum are non-existant or very expensive.

 

280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade. UV LEDs in this range are now available and coming down in price.

 

315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to most plants.

 

 

truly appreciate you posting your opinions and experience here- geat stuff!

nothing you posted is wrong however it's not the full story as i understand it

 

I wanted to clearify a few things though for others who may be of the same mindset

 

 

not all absorbed photons are used for photosynthesis, they're used for other things too, like photomorphogenesis, cryptochrome, phytochrome, etc. For example, about 80% of blue photons absorbed by leaves are used for photosynthesis, so blue is about 20% less efficient in driving photosynthesis than red range photons, even though leaves absorb more blue photons than red photons.

 

 

http://cpl.usu.edu/f...ub__3801011.pdf

 

 

ok ill keep it simple

 

refer to THE mccree curve and see for urself

 

 

as per data sheets sucking and them only testing one of a batch-

all leds from cree are binned- so they r tested for light output, tint, nm, etc and you can buy exactly what u want by looking at the binning you desire

 

http://pct.cree.com/dt/index.html

 

 

the idea that blue and red is all u need is marketing bullshit from early LED growlight manufacturers that sadly ppl still think is true

 

 

in short using cobs would be similar to building a growlight with specific nm leds as u have done only despite having so many (as they say even though mccree disproved it) "unneeded spectrums" it will still produce more photons per watt of desired action spectra and have a higher total photon output

 

(total hypothetical numbers but as an example) 5w of 430-460nm + 5w of 640-665nm would produce less 430-460nm and 640-665nm than 10w of white led-this is because no one is really doing RnD into monochromes anymore but whites(as used for household applications) continue to get more and more efficient

 

 

you mentioned that the 5000-6500k works for you?

 note that remote phosphore is being used on these white chips which is why colder temps (5000-6000k)they r so efficient in converting energy into photons vs warmer leds- i would speculate that your cooler leds are actually just delivering more photons so they work better

 

I put this to you(not as a challenge but because I want to know for myself and we as a community would love to learn from you experience)

 

tell me exactly which chips( model binning link where you bought them if you have 0ne) of the 3500k and 6000k you used

 

I will then do the research on them and we wuld know for sure(assuming you used the same wattage of each on the same heatsink set up)


my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#16 smokemaster

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 09:21 PM

I won several $ and decided 5+ yrs. ago to use LEDs instead of Halides.

HEAT IS a BIG problem for my grow room.

It is,EVEN n the dead of winter High 70's to mid 80's.

Halides weren't an option.

To make things clearer,I don't pay utility bills.

That changes WHY I chose LEDs.

 

As I posted,I use the info I posted,after research on growing ONLY Chili's,it seemed and still seems to work FOR ME.

 

I can post my BUNK data sheets.

Most suck when I put a meter to the strings and JUST using a CD to use like a Prism they ARE mostly what they were rated at as far as NM.

People don't understand,an LED ONLY has to put out the majority of what it is rated at.

Light charts for whatever mean nothing most times.

If an LED puts out 5 different NM,All that is needed is a larger percentage of the NM it is rated at to be sold as it is sold as.

No matter what the LM.

SO people see a graph about that LED's output in XNM.

The buyer thinks THAT Led puts out MOSTLY whatever NM-not many vendors tell you the percentage of that NM it puts out.

So MOSTLY can mean nothing in the long run.

 

I first played with the very small LEDs to play with LN AND NM.

 

I went to 3watters.

Then checked out LM per watt.

1 Watt I could get WAY cheaper AND IN more LM.

THEM I saw that 10mm LEDs put out a LOT more LM in 30/40 degree angles.

So also checking out what my Fluros were using and seeing I could get MORE PLANT USABLE LIGHT from LEDS I played with them.

Yup,I spent FREE $ or probably wouldn't have done what I did at any time.

 

I had $ to purdhase 5000+ small LEDs to play with in different NM and LM.

ALL were said to suck.

I put a bunch of 3X5 perf boards together with 100-125 LEDs per panel.

Used them on individual plant.

I found out about RED making short hedges while Blue made big plants.

 

3 watt stars were next.WAY to little LM (FOR MY GROW) AND WAY too hot in my grow area.

 

Then I saw that 1watters put out more nm and lm than 3 watters AND cost a LOT less.

My LEDS are from CHINA.

YOU WON"T FIND ACCURATE DATA ON THEM.

I can post the data sheets BUT the LEDS are either better or worse than the sheets say.

THAT IS WHY,THROUGH TRIAL AND ERROR I LIKE THEM.

I don't have to worry about all the stray nm they SAY peppers need.

Using my crap LEDS gives enough of the stray stuff out to cover all the stuff people post that plants need.

RED And BLUE LEDS from China,when I check them out using a CD,are mostly what looks like the LED was sold as.

BUT I see a LOT of what I THING plants need,IN smaller amounts ALSO put out too.

 

I am a backyard Mechanic type guy.

I may not have a clue as to all the stuff about LEDs on the net.

I DO see a LOT of what the vendors and armchair experts posting as pure B.S.

 

I a LOT of times write in a way that rubs people wrong.

I don't mean to do so.

I REALLY like a debate OR discussion on things.

 

I can post ONLY my data sheets here.

I hope people understand that I'm not trying to sell anyone a bill of goods.

Trolls love me these days.

I don't think this discussion or what I posted was more than MY experiences.

Nothing more.

I'll not post in this discussion anymore if it turns into a peeing match.

I only know peppers THE way I grow my starts.

I have no clue about what NM ,as far as the lessor needed stuff does whatever.

The nm Weed posted about are probably produced as side NM from a few LEDs.

A lot of the stuff Vendors say is needed from their panels is PROBABLY already supplied by other LEDS in sufficient amounts.

 

I do think that the Tech these days will soon be better than the stuff I built.

White LEDS need to be investigate,same with the 12 volt halides that cars use.

FOR MY grow shelve type thing.

 

Just my opinion about MY GROW.

Nothing more!


Edited by smokemaster, 22 November 2015 - 09:27 PM.


#17 N8thaniel

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Posted 24 November 2015 - 06:26 PM

BUILD KIT # 4

 

the 'Big Daddy'
Includes Veg/Bloom mode but is not dimmable- value for money

[Price:  $227.06/$193  ] [Skills Required: Drilling] [Tools Required: Drill] [163W: as fruiting light= 23000L in Bloom mode/  8000L Lumens in VEG mode(good for 6-8 sq ft) as VEG light(all 5000k)=24,000Lumens(good for up to 16sq ft]

 

 

 

this build is an expansion on the 1st build- once we get this big(in terms of heat watts) passive cooling starts making less financial sense so ive included a heatsink option for active cooling(you will need to buy a pc fans and run them off a phone charger[5v] in parallel- 1 fan per sink) bigger than this requires using cpu coolers and 50w chips so ill stop here and if there is interest dont hesitate to ask

 

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-24%20at%2023.49.

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-24%20at%2023.50.

 

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-25%20at%2000.01.

 

 

or

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-25%20at%2000.23.

 

 

AND 3x  PC FANS plus an old phone charger

 

 

SHOPPING LIST

(15x solderless connector) http://www.digikey.c....594-ND/3880994

(1x thermal grease) http://www.digikey.c....1006-ND/340304

(10x vero 13 3500K) http://www.digikey.c....265-ND/5180237 (none)

(5x 5000k vero 13) http://www.digikey.c....278-ND/5180250 (x12)

(1x[100 pack] #4 self tapping screws) http://www.digikey.c....H800-ND/333049 


(3x 17 inch for passive/ 3x 7inch heatsink with oc fan on each)  http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850/

 

(3x driver[5 cobs in series per driver) http://www.aliexpres...1039547540.html

 

 

 

Screen%20shot%202015-11-25%20at%2000.39.


Edited by N8thaniel, 24 November 2015 - 06:40 PM.

my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#18 smokemaster

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Posted 24 November 2015 - 07:51 PM

A hint,use pop/push pull rivets to mount your LEDs with heat conductive grease to mount your LEDS.

Gives you playing room for changing out LEDS.

 

Screws are a hassle when playing with enlarged holes IF you want to play with changing out NM/LEDS.

 

https://www.google.c...iw=1024&bih=643

 

Might need a washer,depending on your build/LED mount.

Can't get a screw head too close to power...avoids the whole possible problem.

Plus they are fast to use in your build,no tools needed but fingers.

 

Great post and info!

Good stuff,Thanks for taking the time.


Edited by smokemaster, 24 November 2015 - 07:59 PM.


#19 N8thaniel

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 03:17 AM

mmmmm push pull rivets nice!

 

you would need to watch the size/shape of the head though


my grow thehotpepper.com/topic/58836-2016s-fresh-startledphotonfactory/


#20 dragonsfire

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 10:29 AM

Nice ! Thanks!







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