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The 11th Annual Hot Pepper Awards - WINNERS ANNOUNCED!

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Stetto's First Winter Grow ('16-'17)


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#61 Geonerd

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 09:21 PM

Regarding the extra plants you have now, check Facebook, Meetup, etc. for a local gardening group.  I've had good luck trading plants, young and old, for cash, soil / ferts, or even 6 packs of beer! 


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#62 stettoman

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 09:46 AM

I'm torn on this indoor grow. On the one hand, these guys are THRIVING, growing at a rate I never imagined...Maybe you guys knew better, but I've never had any veg work so hard to impress.

 

15896188_233419937107299_537014731982650

 

The Moruga Scorpions are still a tight ball of foliage, but that tight ball seems to double in size every 3-4 days!

 

15966317_233419887107304_759094423198206

 

Now someone in the know should really come and pat me on the head and tell me this is normal and everything will be okely-dokely. These two pics are of the same leaf, a first true leaf on one of the aji amarillos. It's also the only leaf doing this, although some of its brother first trues are beginning to lighten. Age spots? End of purpose decay? An over protective mother needs to know...

 

15871783_233420000440626_30971186949199415781567_233420053773954_233768658692055

 

 

A-a-a-a-a-nd finally, for PaulG. Your Peruvian tri-cotyledon is beginning to like it here...

 

15894710_233419977107295_239029385622259

 

 

 

 

Oh, the other hand. I'm beginning to fear for space before these go in-the-dirt...Don't think I have space for the size big of grow room it will take for almost a dozen more plants than I expected to survive.... :confused:

 


Edited by stettoman, 09 January 2017 - 09:50 AM.

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#63 Malarky

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:47 AM

I have no proof yet, but i'm counting on my grow in my cool basement(58-64F), under less intense levels of light(T12's), will lead to less explosive growth. I too, have little room to grow. Its a long race for us up north and I think highpowered LED's is pushing it too fast if you don't have the room and the lights to keep up.

 

but i have no proof, i just know that my plants didn't get too leggy last year if i kept the T12 bulbs right on top of them.

 

Any Lemon Drops for you yet?



#64 stettoman

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 11:31 AM

My studio has no ventilation but for a heat vent. Otherwise it is a sealed, VERY well insulated room that achieves a temp of 78-80 degrees when the thermostat upstairs is at 68.

My plants aren't leggy, they're bushy, but that is arbitrary I guess...

Maybe a tad tropical down there...no lemon drops yet. I'm not holding my face right.

Edited by stettoman, 09 January 2017 - 11:31 AM.

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#65 Devv

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 07:58 PM

That may be edema on those leaves. Hard to tell with the lighting.


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#66 PaulG

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:41 PM

Eric, be careful with those splotchy Ajis.  Could be a BLS if they are the F5

seeds. They were quite resistant last season, so may tough it out and do okay

if that is the case.  Isolate them and see what develops, or just bite the bullet

and go with the healthy plants.  Since you have a lot of starts, I wouldn't be

squeamish about culling out possibly infected plants.

 

The true peruvian seeds shouldn't have any such Issues.

 

Good luck figuring it out.


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#67 stettoman

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 09:55 AM

Paul, this isn't happening with ANY of the plants from seed you sent. It's those pesky Australians.

I'm pulling leaves as I find them, is BLS systemic or contagious? I've had bean plants side by side where one would have the blight and one next to it was robust. I'd love to isolate but space is nonexistant.

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#68 stettoman

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 11:52 AM

OK Paul & Scott (and anyone else with an idea/diagnosis), here is a pic in different lighting. I looked up images of the edema, kinda don't think so, and the pics of BLS I've seen are far beyond these splotches. Still, got me worried.

 

15965977_233877023728257_885830774512934


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#69 PaulG

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 02:13 PM

Just keep pruning off the infected leaves and see if the new ones fare better.

You might also try a spritz of Cal-Mag on the foliage just for fun in case it's a

nutrient deficiency.  BLS starts small and gets worse, so nip it in the bud.

 

If the growth keeps looking funky, ditch the plants if you can't isolate them.

 

I'm relieved to hear that the PNW seeds are growing without issues.  Good

luck, Eric!


Edited by PaulG, 10 January 2017 - 02:14 PM.

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#70 stettoman

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 02:50 PM

Just keep pruning off the infected leaves and see if the new ones fare better.

You might also try a spritz of Cal-Mag on the foliage just for fun in case it's a

nutrient deficiency.  BLS starts small and gets worse, so nip it in the bud.

 

If the growth keeps looking funky, ditch the plants if you can't isolate them.

 

I'm relieved to hear that the PNW seeds are growing without issues.  Good

luck, Eric!

 

Paul, I have some new fertilizer on the way, solid7 made a recommendation, apparently calcium/magnesium are formulated.

 

Epsom, I keep hearing Epsom. I can dilute and mist if treatment needs to be topical. I imagine it doesn't take much?


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#71 Devv

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 07:21 PM

Calmag is a liquid. I bought a gallon 5 years ago and have used less than a quart. I mix 1 tsp to a gallon and apply it using a standard watering can, a foilar application in the mornings twice a week stop blossom end rot in it's tracks. I get the BER in tomatoes here if I don't use it. As for your issue. Let me make an assumption, you tell me if I'm wrong. I'm thinking your grow area is REALLY humid, and warm, which can allow for all kinds of issues. Am I correct? For that I use a oscillating fan pointed at the gals and only bottom water the plants. The other benefit of the fan is it helps sturdy up the plant stems. That and what Paul said ;)

 

Good luck!


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#72 Geonerd

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 12:44 AM

What can you do to reduce the humidity?  Here in Hell Arizona, BLS is almost unheard of.  My plants sometimes get a touch during the soupiest period of the Monsoon, but recover within a week when the air dries a bit.


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#73 LocalFart

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 01:00 AM

What can you do to reduce the humidity?  Here in Hell Arizona, BLS is almost unheard of.  My plants sometimes get a touch during the soupiest period of the Monsoon, but recover within a week when the air dries a bit.

I would suggest

 

Portable air-con - $265

http://a.co/8u7RnY4

412V8YDsuML._AC_UL115_.jpg

 

de-humidifier - $50

http://a.co/7K6D1c5

61siekAcpAL._AC_UL115_.jpg

 

or some of those tubs you put in your cupboard? $5-$10

http://a.co/agqyJ1s

51OXn9ku2UL._AC_UL115_.jpg

 

Any of those should work


Edited by LocalFart, 11 January 2017 - 01:02 AM.


#74 stettoman

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 07:58 AM

This time of year the studio can't do better than 35% RH, usually around 25%.

The heat issue is room related, I can close the heat vent, but the temp will drop to 65 overnite. Once these dang lemon drops pop (no Malarky, not yet) I'll turn the heat mat off.

There's only a few affected leaves, and it's sparse. I appreciate the input, guys. It's invaluable to me.

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#75 Masher

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 10:14 AM

Can you wipe that stuff away easily with a finger?  Kinda looks like Powdery mildew.

 

Too much water, not enough air flow, watering during dark hrs, high humidity are the causes.

 

Very tough to overcome once it sets in.

 

I use a water/baking soda spray...it won't stop it, but keeps it from spreading sometimes.

 

Best stuff I have found is a Canned Aresol called IMMUNOX plus by Spectracide for gardens..primary uses, roses, shrubs, ornamentals.

 

Generally one application will fix the issue as long as you get the causes under control...water/air/etc.

 

If you choose to try it, read the labels and decide if it's a product for you..it can help with a few bugs as well.

 

I use it only is early veg before pods set...only had to use it 2 times in 6 yrs. worked perfect.


Edited by Masher, 11 January 2017 - 10:16 AM.


#76 stettoman

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 10:45 AM

Well, it does not wipe off, it appears to be dead cells in the leaves themselves, visible from the underside, though not nearly as brown.

I went ahead and closed the vent. It was getting a bit tropical down there. I think peppers can do fine in a 65 degree environment. There's been a fan running since the beginning, not so much for "wind" as simple air circulation.

EVERY leaf stem joint, including cotyledons, are showing robust node development. I'm not sure if that's a sign of reckless glee on the part of the plants or a cry for help.

I do not water until I see the first signs of withering, and other than misting a few times a day, all watering is bottom fed.

The IMMUNOX sounds like something to have on hand, though. My tomatoes were decimated by mealy bugs last year, but my anaheims were left untouched. We do have a lot of pests here.

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#77 Brocoli

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 05:00 PM

Sounds like a good setup there in your area - Use facebook if you start selling exotic peppers!

 

Could try covering half the vent and leave it open if it gets too cold with it shut.

 

Prune plants if theyre getting too big for your area. Stick the cuttings for more plants! :)

 

Is the effected plant in the same spot on the tray? Could it be the light burning those spots in, or using water droplets as magnifiers to burn?

 

Got a magnifying glass? Loupe?



#78 Masher

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 07:09 PM

Quit misting  ;)  Those big boys don't need it. It very well could be water/light burn



#79 Devv

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 07:10 PM

The misting a few times a day could be dropped from the routine, LOL Masher, you added while I was typing


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#80 stettoman

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 07:29 PM

I'm learning, boys, learning here!!

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