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Carolina Reaper Plant Issue..

Hi,
 
What ever I try the plant always stays like that... looks like a calcium deficiency...
 
I put bone meal in the soil 3 weeks ago still no improvement. So last week I put some GH Flora Micro (equiv. to Cal Mag) in the water and the plant leaves still looks crooked...
 
I tried Epsom salt spray...no luck...
 
Soil PH is 5.8 and the water PH I try to keep around 6~6.5.
 
Aphids are present but I control them less than ~5-10 each day. (always come back and the plant is too young for showers)
 
What can it be?
 
Any hint highly appreciated!
 
Thanks,
Laurent
 
carolina_1.jpg

 
 
carolina_2.jpg

 
 
CAPCOM said:
What of other plants?
 
Not the prettiest plants compared on the forum...
 
Red Habanero
 
redhab_1.jpg

 
redhab_2.jpg

 
 
 
 
 
 
Orange Habanero
 
 
orangehab_1.jpg

 
 
orangehab_2.jpg

CAPCOM said:
What are you feeding now, how much and how often?
 
GH Flora (Gro,Micro and Bloom) at 50% dilution once per two weeks the other watering are regular water (PH 6-6.5)
 
     Sometimes aphids can damage meristems. That can lead to ragged leaf margins like you see on your reaper. Other than that your plants look good. Maybe overfeeding like CAPCOM said.
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
     Sometimes aphids can damage meristems. That can lead to ragged leaf margins like you see on your reaper. Other than that your plants look good. Maybe overfeeding like CAPCOM said.
 
Thanks... although I'm far from a good looking plant ?
 
Like this young reaper 
 
dscf1362.jpg

 
 
 
 
 
I'm trying to understand why I can't have a perfect looking plant like most of you guys have !...  /jealous
 
You cant fix the current leaves that are crinkled. They will never recover. You say you had no luck, however your trying to fix what cant be fixed, which is only leading to more issues.  (over feeding)
 
You can only look to have the new growth growing properly / not distorted which takes time (as new leaves need to grow before you can see any improvement) You need to slow things down, take a step back, and look to how the new growth is coming through and stop trying to fix what its too late to fix.
 
My 2c is to not give it any more nutes for a couple weeks at least. Just watch and wait and see how the new growth turns out. Then Reassess. Do nothing, and I think they will come right. 
 
nzchili said:
You cant fix the current leaves that are crinkled. They will never recover.
You can only look to have the new growth growing properly / not distorted which takes time. You need to slow things down and look to how the new growth is coming through and stop trying to fix what its too late to fix.
 
My 2c is to not give it any more nutes for a couple weeks at least. Just watch and wait and see how the new growth turns out. Then Reassess. Do nothing, and I think they will come right. 
 
 
Thanks...I will leave the plant alone and see if the condition improve :)
 
Can wait to have my first reaper pods!  :P
 
Do you ph your water when outdoor gardening in a soil bed or ground bed? ....the answer should be no.
 
Soil is a natural buffer, no need to ph plain water between feedings.....you can continue to ph your nute+water mixture only.
 
Masher said:
Do you ph your water when outdoor gardening in a soil bed or ground bed? ....the answer should be no.
 
Soil is a natural buffer, no need to ph plain water between feedings.....you can continue to ph your nute+water mixture only.
That is not altogether true. If you soil is pH balanced at sat 6.2 and the water you use is 8.4, you are going to stress your plants. I shoot for a soil PH of 6.0- 6.4. My water is RO with a pH of 7.4. My nut line will knock that down to 5.4 so I usually have to buffer up when feeding. I will bring the water down to 6.4 when just watering though.
 
Masher said:
Do you ph your water when outdoor gardening in a soil bed or ground bed? ....the answer should be no.
 
Soil is a natural buffer, no need to ph plain water between feedings.....you can continue to ph your nute+water mixture only.
 
 
I agree but from the nights and nights of reading on plants topic...there is a big difference between outdoor soil and indoor (in pots) the buffer is much much larger.
 
The two habaneros plants I've posted here where from my garden... 
 
Fed once per month a little of miracle gro for tomatoes and that's it. Even water once the plant was showing serious sign of wilting. (didn't bother to check every day)
 
 
 
I think I just went over the top (feeding) once i've started reading every night on THP since they are indoor.
 
Your water will eventually dictate the PH of your plants.  Masher was only partially correct in the soil acting as a natural buffer.  Over time - and especially if you are using tap or well water - you are going to introduce things to your soil that negate, and eventually, overcome that natural buffer.  So, as a good general rule, assume that your water PH is the PH of your potting mix.
.
That being said, what is the NPK ratio of your fertilizer, and how strong is the dilution?  I've been raging lately against high P fertilizers, as I've found (due to my own unexplained problems) that high P can often build up in a mix, and cause lock-outs that mimic environmental stress, or lead to deficiencies.
.
Since I've gone to low P ferts, all of my "mysteries" have mostly resolved. (and thus, formed the basis of my mini-crusade)
 
I will check when I'm back home what exact fertilizer I'm using.

P is phosphorus right? I am using phosphoric acid to bring the tap water 7.5 to about 6 each watering.

Should I use something else for PH down?
 
ELCouz said:
I will check when I'm back home what exact fertilizer I'm using.

P is phosphorus right? I am using phosphoric acid to bring the tap water 7.5 to about 6 each watering.

Should I use something else for PH down?
 
Honestly, I'd use lemon juice before I'd Phosphoric acid... (not that I'm suggesting that you actually do that, so much as making a statement)
.
Yes, P is phosphorus.
.
Try to find a PH down that is based off of a micro (minor, trace) element - like sulfur - rather than a macro. (although it's gonna be hard to avoid nitrates)
 
you can use citric acid to lower the ph of your water, which looks like sugar but is very sour.
its cheap, you can get it at the grocery store & can also buy in bulk from some places. I got a kg or 2 of it it a couple years back, cost maybe $10?  I still 99% of it after all this time.
half a teaspoon is probably enough to lower 5L or so of water from ph8 to 6. you would want to work out how much to use for your particular circumstances though
does not have any other nutes in it either so safe to use every watering. 
 
I grow in 30L pots and my tap water PH is ~8.05 last year I did nothing about it and didn't get many pods on my plants at all. This season I have been lowering my PH down to ~6.5 using Phosphoric acid (PH Down) and I'm getting plenty of pods.

Phosphoric acid may or may not be the best way but my point is that through my own experience I would highly suggest adjusting your PH if it's way out, regardless of where you are growing.
 
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