• If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.

soil Should I add something to this soil?

Hello,
 
So, first time grower here since last year it didn't work out for me (planted too late)
I'm using the double cup method, adding hydro nutrients to the bottom of the cup (Khang Starr method) however next week or in 2 weeks I'm going to transplant and I already bought the soil I'll be going to use. That soil has the characteristics in the image.
 
Should I add something to the soil to make it better? Like using worm castings, perlite, something like that?
Also, if it matters, I'm going to make auto-watering pots, and thinking about using fertilizer in the water from 2 weeks to 2 weeks, or 3 weeks to 3 weeks, any opinions on that?
 
 
"pH in CaCl2, Humidity, Conductivity, Organic Matter, Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Size available"
 
 

Attachments

  • Capturar.JPG
    Capturar.JPG
    36.7 KB · Views: 81
I am not sold on the Khang Starr method. For me, it's a novelty. If you can use some better system of growing, I'd always point you that way. I don't mean this as a discouragement - but lazy methods produce lazy yields. Stick with what's proven. I'd use that method only with a very specific reason.
.
You may put some amendments in, but if it's your first grow, it might be better to start simple, learn what works, and apply new knowledge on a gradual basis. Experimenting when you're new at something, can sometimes lead to bad results, which leads to frustration.
.
Are you actually measuring EC of the nutrient solution? Are you starting with RO water?
.
That chart has a 2-2-3 ratio of macronutrients. You don't need an higher K value. If you are just beginning, to keep things simple, mix your N-P-K in the exact same concentrations. (in this case, do a 2-2-2) But as a new grower, I'd suggest watering it in. Or even better, maybe a granular fertilizer.
.
Hydro is complicated, and best done after a successful traditional grow.
 
solid7 said:
I am not sold on the Khang Starr method. For me, it's a novelty. If you can use some better system of growing, I'd always point you that way. I don't mean this as a discouragement - but lazy methods produce lazy yields. Stick with what's proven. I'd use that method only with a very specific reason.
.
You may put some amendments in, but if it's your first grow, it might be better to start simple, learn what works, and apply new knowledge on a gradual basis. Experimenting when you're new at something, can sometimes lead to bad results, which leads to frustration.
.
Are you actually measuring EC of the nutrient solution? Are you starting with RO water?
.
That chart has a 2-2-3 ratio of macronutrients. You don't need an higher K value. If you are just beginning, to keep things simple, mix your N-P-K in the exact same concentrations. (in this case, do a 2-2-2) But as a new grower, I'd suggest watering it in. Or even better, maybe a granular fertilizer.
.
Hydro is complicated, and best done after a successful traditional grow.
 

The problem is, since I'm a university student I can't water every day or every couple of days my plants (I'll be leaving my plants in my parents house since it's a better weather there and I live in an apartment at the moment) so I have to rely on a system, I was also thinking about a auto-watering system, but I'm afraid of it failing and then dry my plants :/
 
And no, I'm using dechlorinated water with 2/5's strength as is recommended on the bottle, since my plants are still small.
 
Is 2 days the max that you won't be able to water your plants?

A lot of container plants can go nearly a week without water. Over-watering tends to be the number one mistake for new growers.

If that helps at all...
 
Medium
123
every medium(soilmix) needs to drain well and have good porosity (air filled porosity)
 
Nutrient programs
 
1. stay with hydro nutrients. just use them in any fast draining soilmix. do not worry about building the soil.
 
2. just use a slow release pre formulated fertilizer (osmocote smart release vegetable) following manufacturer instructions. use in any fast draining soilmix. do not worry about building the soil.
 
3. learn about soil building, amendments, composting, bacterial / fungi, nutrient availability, decide organic or not, etc
 
 
Nutrient application
 
1. you need to mix and water manually (time) or use a fertigation unit($$$). 
 
2. application every few months 
 
3. once you have the perfect mix it really only requires maintenance once or twice a year(usually in off season)
 
 
Watering
123. you can use the self watering planter for any of these. you can use a sprinkler / drip line on a timer. you can just manually water.
 
solid7 said:
Is 2 days the max that you won't be able to water your plants?

A lot of container plants can go nearly a week without water. Over-watering tends to be the number one mistake for new growers.

If that helps at all...
 

No, the maximum I will be away and can't water the plants is 2 weeks
 
Back
Top