Today at 2PM, I started brewing a batch of compost tea with the following recipe.
5 gallons of water
15 mL hydrolyzed fish and seaweed
1 tsp TM-7
5 mL molasses
Xtreme tea (kelp powder and compost source)
The more nutrients are included in a tea, the more important it is to have strong aeration components that keep the dissolved oxygen levels constantly high.
My air pump setup is pretty effective, and I’m not adding many nutrients, just a little molasses and a 1 gal regular strength dosage of neptune’s harvest 2-3-1
My tea should not be in high demand of oxygen since the nutrient concentration is so low.
I have not tried it yet, but I have heard good things about using the hydrolyzed fish as a food source for fungi.
The molasses is barely any, because I don’t want the tea to become bacteria dominant.
It’s my first attempt with this type of recipe, adding a variety of bacteria and fungus foods.
One concern I had about my ingredients is the high levels of sulfur overall. The TM-7 is a lot of humic and fulvic acid chelators with micronutrients including a lot of sulfur and trace metals. The recommended dosage on the package for container gardening and compost tea is (1/4-1/3 tsp) / gal. I used 1 tsp, about a gram of it. I think the fish hydrolysate and seaweed also has notable Sulfur and Zinc levels.
With seedlings at 2-3 sets of true leaves in a seed starting mix you could probably feed half strength at every other watering. Or you could make up a weaker solution and give it to them at every watering/feed. 1/4 - 1/3 strength of their recommended application rate (15 mL/gal.) So, 1/3 is about 1 tsp/gal. or 5 mL and 1/4 would be about 4 mL/gal.
I have some seedlings around that stage, and I have given them neptune's fish and seaweed 2-3-1.
I use it sparingly, because I don't think it's ideal to supplement a lot of Phosphate at the seeding stage. I'm sure its a good to use occasionally, but I probably wouldn't make it their only food. I think excess P will cause them to stretch more in height.
Instead, I sometimes feed my seedlings with compost tea, and I'll alternate with worm castings and molasses tea. Both 1-0-1.
If you're going to continue giving them that liquid feed, I recommend alternating it with another that has more soluble N and available K. Or add a nitrogen and potassium-rich soil amendment like alfalfa or kelp meal or just a slow-release fertilizer.
The only issue with using slow-release N in the soil is that, if there is too much N left in the soil during flowering it can cause blossom drop.
That being said, I think your 2-4-1 is a liquid feed ratio that would be best used in flower.
For the seedling and vegetative stage you really want to begin fertilizing by increasing soluble N and growing leaves before the plant matures and begins to flower.
During flower and fruit set, P is in much higher demand and the plant stretch that it enables is natural with the upper nodes of the canopy already forking.
I am using the same product on my mature plants that are podding up.
I'm bubbling the worm tea this time, and I've added molasses. Because these castings contain living worms, I'm guessing there may be some beneficial bacteria in them. So, without taking much effort to hook up the large bucket brewer, I'm using a small aquarium pump with one stone in a pint size water bottle. I'm making this for seedlings. After it brews, I will let it settle to check for the worms. Maybe I will strain it if i see any of them. I read that one species of these worms is aquatic. Apparently, they thrive in waterlogged, acidic soil.
I don't think it's N deficiency. The affected leaf on the scotch brain is in the middle, not the bottom. Whatever it is, from the first picture to the last, that leaf seems to be experiencing early senescence and natural abscission. The plant is mobilizing the assimilates/stored carbs from that leaf and preparing to detach it. Sometimes this happens because of inadequate light. In the recent picture, that leaf appears to be on the side not facing the window. Could be that leaf isn't producing as many photosynthates as it requires for maintenance. So, being a net loss in energy, the plant diverts its stores to the leaves with a higher photosynthetic capacity (younger leaves or those receiving more light).
Is that plant topped? I don't see a new growth tip.
Another possibility is that there was some sort of root damage and the plants got rid of leaves to reduce the demands of transpiration on the roots.
I agree with karoo. It's the light intensity, not the heat. Purple isn't typical for those types, but they're only slightly tinged. Raise the light as you go. You're pretty much in the sweet spot since they aren't stretching nor are they really sunburnt. Nice work.