I'm interested in hearing the pros and cons regarding container growing using either 5 gallon buckets vs. using 5 gallon grow bags. By looking through past grow logs on THP it seems that members are using both setups and I just wanted to find out what advantages/disadvantages each method provides. In theory I think I would like to use the buckets over the bags but I also like the idea of being able to throw out the grow bags at the end of the season and not having to store 30+ buckets during the winter months. What are other people's thoughts on the two growing containers?
-
If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.
5 Gallon Buckets vs. 5 Gallon Grow Bags?
- Thread starter jswieton
- Start date
i have used homer buckets, kitty litter buckets, local donuts shop frosting buckets, etc. with plenty of holes drilled both in the bottom and along the bottom sides, i have used the reusable fabric grow bags (root pouch brand) and i have used the cheap PVC grow bags they sell at the hydro stores.
i have found that free is free, and if i can get buckets for free, well i might as well put em to use. That being said, if you don't mind spending a little and having that plastic to throw away at the end of the year, those cheap PVC grow bags work just fine.
(i don't want to throw away 150 more plastic bags each year)
as for the 5 gallons, depends on which peppers your growing. i've had some that did significantly better in 7 or 10 gal bags then the previous year in 5 gal, and other peppers that would have been just fine in 3 gal
the root pouchs hold up great, are certainly reusable, drain well (too well) depending on where your at you might find yourself watering root pouchs more frequently then those PVC grow bags
i think the variation you see in many grows is more due to whats available, rather than whats "better"
but that could be just me. Anyway, buckets or bags, both work fine.
hope this was of some help
i have found that free is free, and if i can get buckets for free, well i might as well put em to use. That being said, if you don't mind spending a little and having that plastic to throw away at the end of the year, those cheap PVC grow bags work just fine.
(i don't want to throw away 150 more plastic bags each year)
as for the 5 gallons, depends on which peppers your growing. i've had some that did significantly better in 7 or 10 gal bags then the previous year in 5 gal, and other peppers that would have been just fine in 3 gal
the root pouchs hold up great, are certainly reusable, drain well (too well) depending on where your at you might find yourself watering root pouchs more frequently then those PVC grow bags
i think the variation you see in many grows is more due to whats available, rather than whats "better"
but that could be just me. Anyway, buckets or bags, both work fine.
hope this was of some help
Personally, I like buckets better, because once grow bags get full of roots, they don't hold moisture, any longer. Water just runs right through.
For 5 gallon buckets, I drill a single hole. You don't need any more than that, so long as you have a media that actually allows drainage.
The grow bags and air pots work really great in the early part of the season, but once the plants get big, it's hell trying to keep them wet.
For 5 gallon buckets, I drill a single hole. You don't need any more than that, so long as you have a media that actually allows drainage.
The grow bags and air pots work really great in the early part of the season, but once the plants get big, it's hell trying to keep them wet.
I've tried the 5gallon buckets but you have to put enough soil in them so your pepper plant gets the maximum amount of light then if you do not put enough holes in them your growing soil will contain to much water and this effects the peppers growing cycle then the amount of soil is very heavy when you have to move them I used an styrofoam cups coolers from ordering ohms ha steaks and had 3 in each cooler they were strong and had no trouble putting holes in them and moving them I got a good crop of Trinidad scorpion butch T s so if you do use styrofoam you might want to back it up with some tape or text. Good luck
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
jswieton said:
The above raises the question of cost, do you have any idea the cost of bags + growing media? The reason I'm asking is if you use garden soil in the bags to reduce cost my thoughts are "Why not grow in a garden?". YMMV
PS. I use buckets & recycle the potting media.............
mwdxx said:
A single 1/2" hole will sufficiently drain a 5 gallon bucket. If it doesn't, your media is too heavy. There is no need to go crazy making swiss cheese containers. I've grown side by side with 2 buckets that had a different number of holes, and got absolutely no difference in growth or yield. There are a lot of misconceptions about container drainage out there. (still tons of people putting rocks in the bottom of pots, even)
Is the Chocolate Bhutlah the NEW World’s Hottest?
As of right now (2015) the Chocolate Bhutlah is gaining steam and blowing heads off with it’s extreme heat. Although not official, the Chocolate Bhutlah is in the running for The World’s Hottest Pepper. Who knows, it may blow the Carolina Reaper out of the water. Bhutlah Seeds are now available for purchase! UPDATE: Live Chocolate Bhutlah Plantsare now available!
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Great
post - and lovely pictures! I grew tomatoes in containers for several years
when I lived in an apartment without any garden space. Quick tip: Be
sure to drill some drainage holes in the bottom of your bucket before
adding soil so your plants don't drown!
Reply
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
As of right now (2015) the Chocolate Bhutlah is gaining steam and blowing heads off with it’s extreme heat. Although not official, the Chocolate Bhutlah is in the running for The World’s Hottest Pepper. Who knows, it may blow the Carolina Reaper out of the water. Bhutlah Seeds are now available for purchase! UPDATE: Live Chocolate Bhutlah Plantsare now available!
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Great
post - and lovely pictures! I grew tomatoes in containers for several years
when I lived in an apartment without any garden space. Quick tip: Be
sure to drill some drainage holes in the bottom of your bucket before
adding soil so your plants don't drown!
Reply
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Exactly...I have used 20gal home depot nursery pots....they have one 3/4 inch hole in the center at bottom.solid7 said:
During the hot days of summer 90-100 degree days i have to water daily. I apply 2 gals of water....6 seconds later it if flowing out the bottom of the single hole.
If your soil remains heavy or isn't draining, you should really look at the soil you're using.
More holes do not equate to good drainage.
I've used both. Grow bags will require some sort of shallow container underneath them to facilitate watering. The container will allow the plant to absorb water through the botttom. Otherwise, Half way through the summer after soil settles, water will just run off the top and out the sides of the bag. Real pain in the ass. So, I prefer my pots that I drill holes in to satisfy my self that drainage is adequate. All said, I still have a few grow bags in circulation but monitor them more carefully than my pots.
i notice several people mentioning 1 hole being all that is necessary in buckets, i'd like to point out that not all buckets are designed the same, not all people are growing on their deck, etc. some buckets have a shape to the bottom that it is beneficial to drill small holes along the sides at the bottom as well. I'm not talking about turning your plastic bucket into swiss cheese, but allowing enough for drainage even if the very bottom were to settle into your rows of weed blocking planters plastic and make a sort of seal or something.
i'd suggest trying as many containers as your time and budget allows and finding what works best for you.
i'd suggest trying as many containers as your time and budget allows and finding what works best for you.
Guatemalan Insanity Pepper said:
I totally agree...My one hole pots sit on a 8" x 8" block so the hole can drain..otherwise most pots have 6-8 holes at the perimeter bottom evenly spaced.
Just wanted to make a point that container and soil need to work together to be most effective.
Great topic and info, thanks...wasn't debating, just clarifying my post.
Guatemalan Insanity Pepper said:
Masher said:
Just wanted to make a point that container and soil need to work together to be most effective.
Let's not get into any debates over holes.
The point was supposed to be that there shouldn't be any false senses of security over how many holes one drills, when the potting mix is most often the limiting factor. Both of the above points are correct. But if you have no obstructions, and your container doesn't drain freely, you've got a problem with your potting mix. Fact.
solid7 said:
Both statements are fine & dandy.
solid7 said:
This I have an issue with. I find it very convenient to plop my multi holed/rock lined bucket in a 6" deep wading pool with premixed water/nutes and let the potting media saturate itself through wicking. My experience is top watering usually allows water/nutes to pass through media without fully saturating media.
Not surprising with ideal media.solid7 said:
Yes I do, but not for drainage. The voids around the stones allow water/nutes in 6" deep wading pool to easily fill the bottom of the pail for wicking to occur.solid7 said:
`
solid7 said:
The issue with PWT (Perched Water Tables) IMO is the practically limitless variations in where it is in any given pot depending on what variables you grow under including straight sided pots compared to tapered wall, media type/mixture (How to determine physical properties of a container media), whether perlite or vermiculite was used, etc., never mind height of the material at bottom of pot (See the Air vs. Water section at the bottom of this URL, Physical properties of container media. YMMV.
As you, I generally have had great success with my time tested methods over the years and a number of failures sprinkled in (This summer I lost 10% of my plants to a fungus/mold I still haven't figured out.). Until you post some pix of your success I don't think I need a lesson in root zone reduction.....
The_NorthEast_ChileMan said:
No, actually, the issue is that putting rocks in the bottom of a conventional container raises the perched water table. And, for any given media, the PWT is exactly the same, regardless of the container size or shape. (which is why taller containers are better, and you don't put a different media in the bottom of a conventional container) There is no debate about that - nor is there a need to start one. I don't know why we want to revisit this, because you mentioned wicking containers, and PWT consideration isn't the same for those, as conventional. And I'm not sure where your hostility comes from, when I agreed with your other points. Of course, if you'd like to tell me that I'm wrong about the PWT issue, I'd be happy to take you to school. But we were just talking. Feel free to guide the direction of the conversation. I'll play along.
As to posting pictures of my "successes", I don't really do this for bragging rights or validation. This is my hobby. If my advice is no good, then it's worth what was paid for it. Of course, maybe I've just done a lot of conversing, for no actual end product.
