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Easy affordable ways to isolate plants for those with limited space

I have limited space and know that most things are going to cross that's why I carefully pick plants I would not mind if they crossed.
I would however like to be able to isolate a few plants just how to go about it is the question.
 
I've heard this is the cheapest but haven't tried.
 
elmers-glue-all-profile.jpg

 
After that, I would suggest bug netting to wrap individual plants, stems or pods.
 
Shade cloth or any kind of netting. 
 
What kind of space do you have and are these plants in ground or buckets? Can you build some kind of structure?
 
I have seen some people place baggies over flowers before they become ready to accept pollen. They then wait for the flower to develop and vibrate it to make it release its pollen into itself. Remove the baggie once a pepper starts to form. The plant may not be isolated, but that particular pepper will be.
 
hottoddy said:
I've heard this is the cheapest but haven't tried.
 
elmers-glue-all-profile.jpg

 
After that, I would suggest bug netting to wrap individual plants, stems or pods.
Thanks was thinking of maybe bug neting using a tomato cage
sicman said:
Shade cloth or any kind of netting. 
 
What kind of space do you have and are these plants in ground or buckets? Can you build some kind of structure?
Most will be in containers but the baccatums like aji starfish & aji melocoton will be in the ground.
I am in a trailer court with a strip on each side but I can use some of my mothers land for space if need be but thats 30 to 40 minutes away
Thank you for all the helpful advice hopefully this will be helpful to others with similar questions.
 
I started using these a few years back, great thing about them is you can bag a whole branch, not just a blossom. I use both the 1 and 5 gallon sizes. And they'll last a few years.
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Trimaco-1-gal-Elastic-Top-Strainers-2-Pack-11572-36WF/202061359
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Trimaco-5-gal-Elastic-Top-Strainers-2-Pack-11573-36WF/202061360
 
Probably not a perfect solution, but a pretty good one for me so far.
 
I do use tape or tie down the ends with twist ties of the bag as the elsatic doen't work for this purpose.
 
sicman said:
Shade cloth or any kind of netting. 
I like regular netting or tulle when it's on sale, wrap it around the cage with clothespins, and then you can forget about all of the flowers/fruits that form and know they're all true on that plant.  I use nylon netting on the red bhuts and Carolina reapers, since I want those seeds to be true.
 
One year I wrapped 3 plants together, around the cages.  I usually get the nylon netting at Hobby Lobby or another sewing store.
 
Now THAT is a good question to be asking. Here's my two cents:

Isolation via distance or staggering your planting a so that different varieties will bloom at different times is bollocks. Bees travel a lot farther and communicate a lot more effectively than people give them credit for. So let's exclude those methods as being a crap shoot at best.

I've heard about the glue approach, but never tried it. Again, though, bees can be persistent.

There are a variety of floating row cover type fabrics that be had pretty cheaply if you plug yourself into the ag industry. I'm using this approach to isolate entire plants this season. As long as you're going to the trouble of isolating seed, you might as well do all you can to ensure their viability: go with seed harvested from the first pods the plant makes, make sure the pods are fully ripened on the plant before harvesting, wash them carefully to remove all traces of placenta, and dry them in a cool spot with a lot of air circulation. Seventy degrees under a ceiling fan on warp speed for about a week has worked well for me thus far.

One warning about some of these fabrics: it's important to know how much light they allow through and what purpose the were intended for. I'm using some stuff I got at a plant show a few months ago that was meant to mitigate the damage lower temperatures can cause. Down here in Miami, low temperatures aren't generally a problem. It's taken a little finesse to get the plants the right sunlight exposure and the right amount of water because the fabric I'm using raises the temperature by as much as ten degrees. In too much sun, think pressure cooker.

When you remove your isolation screen, make sure you mark which flowers/pods were produced. This is another reason to start with a plant that's got immature buds that are close to being ready; it becomes more of a headache when you've got both OP and isolated flowers on the same plant. Some people use string or tags for this, but I'm a fan of the "magic marker and detailed notes" approach.

Even if you isolate, be aware that you'll experience some genetic drift over time as a result of mutation. It really, really doesn't happen often, and it's even less likely that you'll have a mutation that will affect the pods in any detectable way, but it does happen.

Oh, and before I forget, I finally got around to getting some seeds together to go out to you. Think you'll be happy with it.
 
Wicked Mike said:
Now THAT is a good question to be asking. Here's my two cents:Isolation via distance or staggering your planting a so that different varieties will bloom at different times is bollocks. Bees travel a lot farther and communicate a lot more effectively than people give them credit for. So let's exclude those methods as being a crap shoot at best.I've heard about the glue approach, but never tried it. Again, though, bees can be persistent.There are a variety of floating row cover type fabrics that be had pretty cheaply if you plug yourself into the ag industry. I'm using this approach to isolate entire plants this season. As long as you're going to the trouble of isolating seed, you might as well do all you can to ensure their viability: go with seed harvested from the first pods the plant makes, make sure the pods are fully ripened on the plant before harvesting, wash them carefully to remove all traces of placenta, and dry them in a cool spot with a lot of air circulation. Seventy degrees under a ceiling fan on warp speed for about a week has worked well for me thus far.One warning about some of these fabrics: it's important to know how much light they allow through and what purpose the were intended for. I'm using some stuff I got at a plant show a few months ago that was meant to mitigate the damage lower temperatures can cause. Down here in Miami, low temperatures aren't generally a problem. It's taken a little finesse to get the plants the right sunlight exposure and the right amount of water because the fabric I'm using raises the temperature by as much as ten degrees. In too much sun, think pressure cooker.When you remove your isolation screen, make sure you mark which flowers/pods were produced. This is another reason to start with a plant that's got immature buds that are close to being ready; it becomes more of a headache when you've got both OP and isolated flowers on the same plant. Some people use string or tags for this, but I'm a fan of the "magic marker and detailed notes" approach.Even if you isolate, be aware that you'll experience some genetic drift over time as a result of mutation. It really, really doesn't happen often, and it's even less likely that you'll have a mutation that will affect the pods in any detectable way, but it does happen.Oh, and before I forget, I finally got around to getting some seeds together to go out to you. Think you'll be happy with it.
Thank you for the advice wicked mike it might be easier for me to over winter a few plants of the varieties I want then save some op seed.
Your advice was real helpful it explains a lot.
Thank you for the seeds I look forward to growing them.
 
I take care of my pure seeds by keeping my plants under lights indoors in 4 1/2 inch pots until I get a few pods on my 4ft. x 18 in. shelves with 23or so inch height from lights to plant pots bottom.
I use Fluoros and LEDS this year.
Next time I'll go back to LEDS only.
I just wasn't able to set them up this year.
My 1 watt LEDS ROCK.
I put about 300 above,350 vertically on 3 sides.
I use 400nm to 475nm blue and 625-570nm red.
About a 6 red to 3 or 4 blue mix,my stuff I made so it depends on what is on each panel as to what the LEDS like and the power supply.
Voltage = nm (to some extent) and Watts = brightness.
I LOVE chinese LEDS.
Because of the same reason people hate them.
Lack of quality control makes them put out NM they aren't supposed to(but still 50% they are rated for) and at the same time they so far have only burned out (in 5 yrs) only because I didn't break out the multi meter to see if I was overdriving them/let the smoke out after only 3 years.
A little more work seeing what the particular batch actually draws but a TON cheaper to buy.
But at under a buck a piece,who cares...
I get a price of half that when I buy a bunch of them easily.
Far red is expensive.BUT a few hundred REALLY brings the price down.
I also really like 10mm Leds.
I use Stars and 10mm to cover about everything that plants use.
10mm come in lesser selection of NM but are WAY cheaper and a LOT more Lm.
 
My grow area stays at least 75 to 80 degrees or higher year round.
I usually keep 2 of plants of everything.
One goes outside the other gets kept until I get pods.
Gotta feed them with weak nutes and lots of light or they drop buds.
Treat as a Bonzi.
All I need are 10 or so pure pods,depending on what it is to keep my collection fresh.
My collection is easily 5000 varieties ,crosses or supposed strains of peppers.
 
Pods won't be the same as the ones that go in bigger pots outside but all I need are pure seeds.
I only save seeds from plants that are pure seeds.
I don't do crosses in general.
I buy most of my seed stock for my collection of new stuff.
Most grow true as far as I can tell.
No wind or bugs make it VERY hard for a bud to get crossed.No matter how many plants are in the room(usually 80 or so (in 4 1/2 inch pots).
 
Ya,A lot of work but It works for me...
 
I know several people/Vendors that just put all the Chinense,All Annuums etc. under their own row cover.
Keeps bugs out.
Since peppers are self polinating wind doesn't seem to be a problem.
So I'm told by a LOT of Vendors and Chili heads.
 
Bumping an old thread here
 
Lots of my plants started setting pods indoors in tight quarters so I can expect most of them have high chances of being crossed. There's some I would like to save seeds from to increase seed stock. I was thinking about isolating some individual flowers before they bloom. 
 
What are some methods people have used in the past to do this?
 
I was thinking maybe draw string tea bags but they are kinda big for the job. Was hoping someone had a better idea.
 
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