So many people use different method's for germinating their hot pepper seeds. What technique are you using for germination in 2016? How many days is it taking you until your plant actually spreads it cotyledons and starts basking in the sun, artificial light whatever your using? For me I am using peat pellets in a greenhouse on a heat mat. My super hots are upright and have their cotyledons out within 7 - 10 days after sowing. Of course there is always the exception of some slower seeds that take somewhat longer. My bhuts are hooking in around 4 to 5 days.
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Germination Method's and Germination Speed 2016
- Thread starter SvtCobra
- Start date
I soak overnight in a tea solution then straight to 3" soil pots on a heatmat
Here's the results for my first round. I only have one heatmat so do 18 at a time.
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Mystery Wine
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Moa Bonnet Yellow
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Moa Bonnet Red
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Aji Mango
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-7 Bahamian Goat
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Mako Kokoo
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Habanero Hot Lemon
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Cor De Laranja
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Murupi Amarela
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Cream Fatalii
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 7pot Peach
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Ice scream scorp
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Habanero Laranjada Grande
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Peach Bhut
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 BG7 Chocolate
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 7pot Burgundy X Mystery
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Lemon drop X Inca Berry f1
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Aji amarillo X Caribbean red hab f1
I write this info on my pots as well. More than once last year I wish I knew this stuff so I figured i'd just write it on the pot that way i don't loose it. once they are in the ground I could really care less though
Here's the results for my first round. I only have one heatmat so do 18 at a time.
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Mystery Wine
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Moa Bonnet Yellow
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Moa Bonnet Red
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Aji Mango
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-7 Bahamian Goat
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Mako Kokoo
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Habanero Hot Lemon
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Cor De Laranja
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Murupi Amarela
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Cream Fatalii
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 7pot Peach
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Ice scream scorp
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Habanero Laranjada Grande
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Peach Bhut
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 BG7 Chocolate
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 7pot Burgundy X Mystery
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Lemon drop X Inca Berry f1
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Aji amarillo X Caribbean red hab f1
I write this info on my pots as well. More than once last year I wish I knew this stuff so I figured i'd just write it on the pot that way i don't loose it. once they are in the ground I could really care less though
D3monic said:I soak overnight in a tea solution then straight to 3" soil pots on a heatmat
Here's the results for my first round. I only have one heatmat so do 18 at a time.
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Mystery Wine
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Moa Bonnet Yellow
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Moa Bonnet Red
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Aji Mango
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-7 Bahamian Goat
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Mako Kokoo
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Habanero Hot Lemon
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Cor De Laranja
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Murupi Amarela
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 Cream Fatalii
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-4 7pot Peach
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Ice scream scorp
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Habanero Laranjada Grande
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-3 Peach Bhut
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 BG7 Chocolate
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 7pot Burgundy X Mystery
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-5 Lemon drop X Inca Berry f1
Sow: 12-29 Sprout:1-6 Aji amarillo X Caribbean red hab f1
I write this info on my pots as well. More than once last year I wish I knew this stuff so I figured i'd just write it on the pot that way i don't loose it. once they are in the ground I could really care less though
Very nice. What temp are you running with on the mat? Or do you just plug it in and let it rip.
I use coir plugs under a humidity dome on a heat mat.
I soak the plugs in hot water, (they expand better than using cold water), and place them in the tray, plug in the heat hat, set the controller to 80°F, and let the plugs 'warm up' for a couple of days, then plant two seeds in each plug.
I was looking at my 2015 glog; I had four days for the quickest germination, the majority popped within two weeks, 90 out of 97 plugs successfully germinated at least one seed in a little under a month. The remaining 7 never did geminate.
I soak the plugs in hot water, (they expand better than using cold water), and place them in the tray, plug in the heat hat, set the controller to 80°F, and let the plugs 'warm up' for a couple of days, then plant two seeds in each plug.
I was looking at my 2015 glog; I had four days for the quickest germination, the majority popped within two weeks, 90 out of 97 plugs successfully germinated at least one seed in a little under a month. The remaining 7 never did geminate.
I generally use fifty-cell liners. My germination mix is approximately fifty-fifty coir and coarse perlite (not sure what the exact ratio is, as I eyeball it, but I go much heavier on the perlite than I used to). I've worked with coir from a few different sources, and it's pretty variable stuff. At the moment, I like Mother Earth the best. Coincidentally, I use this same mix for rooting clones. I'm finding that my success rate has gone up dramatically by going heavier on the perlite and not letting them stay as soggy as I previously thought they needed to be.
Anyway, after an eight-hour soak, I toss the seeds to coat in a fungicide and sow them very shallowly. They get lightly misted a few times a day, just enough to keep them barely moist. My workspace for seeds is on raised benches under a large tarp-like tent thing. The ambient temperature here is usually great for germinating seeds, so they stay there unless we actually get some cool weather.
For more difficult or especially...well, special seeds, I micromanage them more. For nonpepper stuff with a larger seed and a more robust root, I sometimes germinate in community pots, then separate them out.
With good seeds, I usually have a germ rate right around 100%, usually within 3-5 days. I'd definitely recommend the use of either Thiram or Captan as a seed treatment (with gloves and a mask; you don't want to inhale/absorb this stuff). For a new grower, it's a good way of eliminating a lot of guesswork in avoiding damping off. For growers who've already got germination nailed down, well...it never hurts to have a little added insurance.
Anyway, after an eight-hour soak, I toss the seeds to coat in a fungicide and sow them very shallowly. They get lightly misted a few times a day, just enough to keep them barely moist. My workspace for seeds is on raised benches under a large tarp-like tent thing. The ambient temperature here is usually great for germinating seeds, so they stay there unless we actually get some cool weather.
For more difficult or especially...well, special seeds, I micromanage them more. For nonpepper stuff with a larger seed and a more robust root, I sometimes germinate in community pots, then separate them out.
With good seeds, I usually have a germ rate right around 100%, usually within 3-5 days. I'd definitely recommend the use of either Thiram or Captan as a seed treatment (with gloves and a mask; you don't want to inhale/absorb this stuff). For a new grower, it's a good way of eliminating a lot of guesswork in avoiding damping off. For growers who've already got germination nailed down, well...it never hurts to have a little added insurance.
I used to just pop them in soil till some one told me about putting them in water to see what comes up, started doing the water treatment last monthm works great and saves on disapointments.
Tea?? what kind, Black, Interesting
Tea?? what kind, Black, Interesting
Those are good germ rates. Right now I am getting about 90 something percent germ rate, with the exception of pepperlover seeds. I have not had a single pepperlover seed pop. But all my buckeye and other sourced seeds are up and out. I am running at 84 degrees on the thermo.alkhall said:
I always use the immersion method, I find at the very least it helps prevent helmet head on the seedling. And I do find I get faster germ rates.dragonsfire said:I used to just pop them in soil till some one told me about putting them in water to see what comes up, started doing the water treatment last monthm works great and saves on disapointments.
Tea?? what kind, Black, Interesting
I have been happy with the peat pellets. As I know what to expect as far as quality control. Some that peat is too acidic at around 4.0, but I have yet to have a problem with that. If necessary I can use pH up or down when watering to adjust that issue. I soak in a weak cam tea before sowing and sprinkle with cinnamon to stave of dampening. It has worked 100 % of the time, and that's a number I can live with. The perlite in your mix should allow for more air to pass through the mix and seeds don't sit in overly moist medium.Wicked Mike said:
I have always stuck with my original method I read about with - Tea Solution soaking
I make a half strength tea ( standard tea bag ) and water solution (hot water) in a full cup and then put some into solo cups with 4-5 seeds about half inch of solution, keep inside the house for 24 hours then sow...
Takes around 3-4 days for cool varieties and seems around 5-10 for super hots... Some just seem to take 10+ days regardless of method..
I have some seeds I put in dry about 10 days ago and only have the first few popping now so it does seem to take almost twice as long as a one day pre-soak.
It's cheap - It works - And I have low amounts of helmet seedlings at low sow depths
For a medium I use a MG seed starter mix that's fine bark and sand and mix it with a cheap local brand seed starter that's light weight bark potting mix...
I make a half strength tea ( standard tea bag ) and water solution (hot water) in a full cup and then put some into solo cups with 4-5 seeds about half inch of solution, keep inside the house for 24 hours then sow...
Takes around 3-4 days for cool varieties and seems around 5-10 for super hots... Some just seem to take 10+ days regardless of method..
I have some seeds I put in dry about 10 days ago and only have the first few popping now so it does seem to take almost twice as long as a one day pre-soak.
It's cheap - It works - And I have low amounts of helmet seedlings at low sow depths
For a medium I use a MG seed starter mix that's fine bark and sand and mix it with a cheap local brand seed starter that's light weight bark potting mix...
I always pre soak, as I get the same results as you without it. The seed takes longer to pop and some come out with a helmet head. And that just wastes 10 days of my patience. This is my Golden Bhut that popped in 5 days with a pre soak and a weak tea solution.KrakenPeppers said:
I have never tried the scratching method before. I just wait until the seeds sink to the bottom and no longer float.Freekie said:
seed start solution: 1 gal water (boiled) 1 packet chamomile tea (let it sit in there for 5 mins or whatever) let cool a bit
put above solution into clean spray bottle
cut paper towel into 6ths
put paper towel into 8oz deli container
spray a couple times, make sure paper towel is spread out good
put seeds on paper towel
spray until you see a little standing water (aka completely soaked) (some will evaporate / condensate on sides / top of container)
seal on the lid and label
put in grow room next to the heater
sowed 1/3
on 1/11 8 days for the first ones all the way up.
will edit, most should pop by 14 /18 days
put above solution into clean spray bottle
cut paper towel into 6ths
put paper towel into 8oz deli container
spray a couple times, make sure paper towel is spread out good
put seeds on paper towel
spray until you see a little standing water (aka completely soaked) (some will evaporate / condensate on sides / top of container)
seal on the lid and label
put in grow room next to the heater
sowed 1/3
on 1/11 8 days for the first ones all the way up.
will edit, most should pop by 14 /18 days
AlabamaJack
eXtreme
has probably already been said, but you have to be very careful when using peat pucks..or at least I did....the moisture in the puck was very hard for me to keep constant....
AlabamaJack
eXtreme
OK, you asked...I wrote this several years ago when I was starting several thousand seeds a year...
[SIZE=12pt]First off I do NOT know all there is to know about growing peppers, nor would I ever claim to. I learn new things and methods each year. I wanted to share with you how I do things which has worked out well for me. I try and improve my process each year, but most times, I have to relearn what I learned last year (if that makes sense)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I am hoping that this will help the new pepper grower learn the process of seed starting and have written this from my personal experience...it's pretty straight forward and I know everyone does it their way but this way works best for me and usually ends up producing 90 + % germination rates...[/SIZE]
Step by step process.
1. Cleanliness [SIZE=12pt]- Sanitize all tools/work areas/germination areas/trays before starting...I use a very strong solution of the harshest chemical my nose can stand while cleaning my work areas....wash hands very often to keep cleanliness at its best...[/SIZE]remember cleanliness is the most important thing[SIZE=12pt]...think of your seeds/seedlings as if they were babies...they need care...[/SIZE]
2. Seed Starting Medium[SIZE=12pt] - When deciding what media to start your seeds in, remember this...you want a [/SIZE]light weight medium without large "chunks" in it[SIZE=12pt]...water retention of the media is also of utmost important...I use Hoffman's seed starting mix. A lot of growers use peat pucks and that is fine but they dry out too quickly and are the cause many seedling deaths...[/SIZE]
3. Pre-Soaking your Starting Medium[SIZE=12pt] - Soak your starting medium overnight in warm water to [/SIZE]completely wet it[SIZE=12pt] before planting your seeds.[/SIZE]
4. Planting Seeds[SIZE=12pt] - Poke a hole in the soaked media using the blunt end of a sharpie about 1/2" deep. Planting shallower will result in more "helmets" on your seeds. Place the seeds in the holes and gently cover them up...a little pressure won't hurt but [/SIZE]you don't want to "pack" the medium[SIZE=12pt] you are planting in.[/SIZE]
5. Moisture - You want your starting medium damp, not wet...if at any time after the germination process starts, your medium dries out, your seeds are dead...any dry period will kill the embryo...Moist, not wet is very important to remember.
6. Germination Temperature[SIZE=12pt] - the temperature at which you germinate your seeds is of utmost importance - 80-86F is optimum. If you get lower than that, the seeds will still germinate (down to 60F probably) but will take forever. If you get higher than that, they germination percent also decreases and when you hit 95F or above for an extended period, can you say "zero"? Constant temperature is a key here IMO[/SIZE]
7. Ambient Temperature[SIZE=12pt] - While not as important as germination temperature, ambient temperature of your grow area is important also...IMO 80F is about a perfect temperature to grow pepper seedlings. [/SIZE]
8. Light [SIZE=12pt]- Light is not needed for pepper seed germination but once the seeds have "hooked", pour the light to them...as much as you can...mine get 3K lumens/ft2[/SIZE]
9. Stem Exercise [SIZE=12pt]- A fan blowing on the seedlings several times a day is required for stem health...you want to "exercise" the stems several times a day....this stretches the cell walls thus thickening and strengthening them...think of standing on one leg with a pretty good wind blowing on you for 30 minutes a day...that leg would get muscular...I run the fan on as high as the plants can stand it without breaking them down...[/SIZE]
9. Fertilize[SIZE=12pt] - to fertilize or not to fertilize...up to ya...some people say no, some people say yes...I fertilize with 1/2 strength from the time the seeds hit the soil until first transplant then use full strength...that is my choice and works well for me....I use Botanicare products like Liquid Karma & ProGrow.[/SIZE]
10. Watering[SIZE=12pt] - I have found the best way to know when you need to water is through experience...if the seedlings wilt, definitely time for water, however, if you will take a dry container, feel the weight of it, then take a soaked container and feel the weight of it, you will know when your plants need water...IMO this works better than moisture gauges or being on a set watering schedule...over watering will make your plants die over time...[/SIZE]
11. Transplant time - [SIZE=12pt]if using seed starting trays, transplant only when the roots start growing out of the bottom...[/SIZE]remember, the health of your root ball determines the health of your plant[SIZE=12pt]. Transplanting several times to increasingly larger containers improves the health of the plant by making a more compact root ball, not root bound, just a good network of nice hairy roots. Something like this works really well...seed starting tray (3 weeks) to 3" square containers (3-4 weeks), to 6" containers (3-5 weeks) , to 2-3 gallon (2 months) to 5 gallon etc...however, because I grow so many plants, I only transplant three times...from seed starting tray to 3" container to 6" container to 5 gallon container....then during the season, I may transplant to 10 gallon containers...[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]enjoy growing...for those not growing in containers, go to ground or raised bed after 6" container....[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]First off I do NOT know all there is to know about growing peppers, nor would I ever claim to. I learn new things and methods each year. I wanted to share with you how I do things which has worked out well for me. I try and improve my process each year, but most times, I have to relearn what I learned last year (if that makes sense)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I am hoping that this will help the new pepper grower learn the process of seed starting and have written this from my personal experience...it's pretty straight forward and I know everyone does it their way but this way works best for me and usually ends up producing 90 + % germination rates...[/SIZE]
Step by step process.
1. Cleanliness [SIZE=12pt]- Sanitize all tools/work areas/germination areas/trays before starting...I use a very strong solution of the harshest chemical my nose can stand while cleaning my work areas....wash hands very often to keep cleanliness at its best...[/SIZE]remember cleanliness is the most important thing[SIZE=12pt]...think of your seeds/seedlings as if they were babies...they need care...[/SIZE]
2. Seed Starting Medium[SIZE=12pt] - When deciding what media to start your seeds in, remember this...you want a [/SIZE]light weight medium without large "chunks" in it[SIZE=12pt]...water retention of the media is also of utmost important...I use Hoffman's seed starting mix. A lot of growers use peat pucks and that is fine but they dry out too quickly and are the cause many seedling deaths...[/SIZE]
3. Pre-Soaking your Starting Medium[SIZE=12pt] - Soak your starting medium overnight in warm water to [/SIZE]completely wet it[SIZE=12pt] before planting your seeds.[/SIZE]
4. Planting Seeds[SIZE=12pt] - Poke a hole in the soaked media using the blunt end of a sharpie about 1/2" deep. Planting shallower will result in more "helmets" on your seeds. Place the seeds in the holes and gently cover them up...a little pressure won't hurt but [/SIZE]you don't want to "pack" the medium[SIZE=12pt] you are planting in.[/SIZE]
5. Moisture - You want your starting medium damp, not wet...if at any time after the germination process starts, your medium dries out, your seeds are dead...any dry period will kill the embryo...Moist, not wet is very important to remember.
6. Germination Temperature[SIZE=12pt] - the temperature at which you germinate your seeds is of utmost importance - 80-86F is optimum. If you get lower than that, the seeds will still germinate (down to 60F probably) but will take forever. If you get higher than that, they germination percent also decreases and when you hit 95F or above for an extended period, can you say "zero"? Constant temperature is a key here IMO[/SIZE]
7. Ambient Temperature[SIZE=12pt] - While not as important as germination temperature, ambient temperature of your grow area is important also...IMO 80F is about a perfect temperature to grow pepper seedlings. [/SIZE]
8. Light [SIZE=12pt]- Light is not needed for pepper seed germination but once the seeds have "hooked", pour the light to them...as much as you can...mine get 3K lumens/ft2[/SIZE]
9. Stem Exercise [SIZE=12pt]- A fan blowing on the seedlings several times a day is required for stem health...you want to "exercise" the stems several times a day....this stretches the cell walls thus thickening and strengthening them...think of standing on one leg with a pretty good wind blowing on you for 30 minutes a day...that leg would get muscular...I run the fan on as high as the plants can stand it without breaking them down...[/SIZE]
9. Fertilize[SIZE=12pt] - to fertilize or not to fertilize...up to ya...some people say no, some people say yes...I fertilize with 1/2 strength from the time the seeds hit the soil until first transplant then use full strength...that is my choice and works well for me....I use Botanicare products like Liquid Karma & ProGrow.[/SIZE]
10. Watering[SIZE=12pt] - I have found the best way to know when you need to water is through experience...if the seedlings wilt, definitely time for water, however, if you will take a dry container, feel the weight of it, then take a soaked container and feel the weight of it, you will know when your plants need water...IMO this works better than moisture gauges or being on a set watering schedule...over watering will make your plants die over time...[/SIZE]
11. Transplant time - [SIZE=12pt]if using seed starting trays, transplant only when the roots start growing out of the bottom...[/SIZE]remember, the health of your root ball determines the health of your plant[SIZE=12pt]. Transplanting several times to increasingly larger containers improves the health of the plant by making a more compact root ball, not root bound, just a good network of nice hairy roots. Something like this works really well...seed starting tray (3 weeks) to 3" square containers (3-4 weeks), to 6" containers (3-5 weeks) , to 2-3 gallon (2 months) to 5 gallon etc...however, because I grow so many plants, I only transplant three times...from seed starting tray to 3" container to 6" container to 5 gallon container....then during the season, I may transplant to 10 gallon containers...[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]enjoy growing...for those not growing in containers, go to ground or raised bed after 6" container....[/SIZE]
AJ!!!!!!!!!!!! Good to see you back again.
I haven't started more than 50 at a time, so I can tell you this isn't likely the best idea for people starting hundreds of seeds, but it works very well for me - little plastic cups of water, kept in a warm spot. Frankly, I will never use another germination method again, unless someone can REALLY convince me something else is better.
What AJ said about cleanliness is a top priority. I do first soak the seeds themselves in straight h2o2 for about an hour. Then each variety gets moved to a plastic cup with water in it. Every couple of days I dump the water in the cups and give them fresh water. Every week (if they take longer than a week) they get new cups as well as fresh water. (I pour the water and seeds through a mesh strainer then pick the seeds out of the strainer. As soon as a given seed's casing opens and the tiniest bit of root peeks out, I move that seed to moistened starter soil - basically peat and perlite.
I like this method for a couple reasons, the first being because I can watch the germination process. As the seeds get closer to sprouting, the seed casing thins out and you can see the plant embryo forming if you hold the cup (using clear plastic cups) up to a light. I know a day before a seed opens that it will open the next day, so it's easy to have the appropriate number of containers of starter mix ready before I even look at them the next day. I just really enjoy being able to see the process take place each day. I've learned quite a bit about seeds through this observation - like even pubescens, with their dark, opaque coating, thin out and lose quite a bit of that coating before sprouting.
The other reasons I like this includes that there is no guesswork once you move it to starter soil - the seed sprouted already, it just needs a different medium at this point. Also, I was finding when using damp paper towels or coffee filters that those things can get moldy in the kind of warm, wet environment that the seeds need to germinate. That mold can spread to and kill the seeds before you know it. Cups of water refreshed every couple of days? No mold, just happy little seeds doing their 'thang.
I haven't started more than 50 at a time, so I can tell you this isn't likely the best idea for people starting hundreds of seeds, but it works very well for me - little plastic cups of water, kept in a warm spot. Frankly, I will never use another germination method again, unless someone can REALLY convince me something else is better.
What AJ said about cleanliness is a top priority. I do first soak the seeds themselves in straight h2o2 for about an hour. Then each variety gets moved to a plastic cup with water in it. Every couple of days I dump the water in the cups and give them fresh water. Every week (if they take longer than a week) they get new cups as well as fresh water. (I pour the water and seeds through a mesh strainer then pick the seeds out of the strainer. As soon as a given seed's casing opens and the tiniest bit of root peeks out, I move that seed to moistened starter soil - basically peat and perlite.
I like this method for a couple reasons, the first being because I can watch the germination process. As the seeds get closer to sprouting, the seed casing thins out and you can see the plant embryo forming if you hold the cup (using clear plastic cups) up to a light. I know a day before a seed opens that it will open the next day, so it's easy to have the appropriate number of containers of starter mix ready before I even look at them the next day. I just really enjoy being able to see the process take place each day. I've learned quite a bit about seeds through this observation - like even pubescens, with their dark, opaque coating, thin out and lose quite a bit of that coating before sprouting.
The other reasons I like this includes that there is no guesswork once you move it to starter soil - the seed sprouted already, it just needs a different medium at this point. Also, I was finding when using damp paper towels or coffee filters that those things can get moldy in the kind of warm, wet environment that the seeds need to germinate. That mold can spread to and kill the seeds before you know it. Cups of water refreshed every couple of days? No mold, just happy little seeds doing their 'thang.