Help with getting more fruits

cruzzfish

cruzzfish

As I have been browsing the forums, I see pictures of various plants with 30-40 peppers on them, and even a video of a 781 pod dorset naga. I, however, have never been able to acheive such results, with plants. Any ideas about what do do. I had a bonsai hab produce in the order of 20 once, an some others producs ten, for a foot tall plant that is pretty good, but on all my other plants, next to none. Yellow brain strain-1
Sunrise scorp-3 so far, still flowering
choco bonnet-1
7 pod giant-1
ghost scorp-1
perfume-3 and 4
I use the occasional maxi-grow fert, once every three weeks, but have not given any in a while. They are inside in a sunroo, getting a 8 ish hours of natural light, and about 64 degrees. Should I water them with maxi-bloom as well?
Any help would be greatly appreciated 
 
Are you getting lots of flowers that later drop or none at all? What are you giving your plants in the way of Phosphorous, Calcium, and Magnesium? How big are the pots? How much water do they get and how often do they get it?
 
8 hours of light is way too little, increase it either by moving the plants of using a non-natural light setup like CFLs or HIDs. You should be giving your plants a minimum of ~10hrs a day to get a nice linear growth vs. time chart. Peppers are day neutral so you can give them up to 24 hours of light a day and they'll soak it right up as long as you harden them off.
 
Lots of flowers. This was over the summer though, and I noticed that the bonsai habs only produced at a tenth of normal during the same time, so it might be the heat. The pots are around 10 gallon, water whenever the top inch of soil gets dry. They get about 2/3 quarts each watering. Whenever the leaves start looking yellow ish they get a 1.5 times dose of calimagic. There are fluorescent lights for the habaneros that the large ones get, but it only gets to the bottom side of the plants, for about 15 hours a day. I hope it was just the heat though, because there just setting into the second flowering season.
 
I water when the plants start to look "sad" at the beginning of the day. For me, they always look sad at nighttime because my grow is a little on the hot side, but if they look sad when I wake up they get a gallon. Calimagic may or may not solve the chlorosis issue depending on what nutrient they run out of but if it fixes the problem, great. Definitely look into heat. You don't need to decrease the root temperature as much as the canopy temperature so your solution may be as simple as sticking a fan over the top of your plants.
 
It was the heat. Flowering again and much less drop of fruit. I use my yellow moruga scorpion as a gauge for watering, because that one takes a lot more water than the others. I wait for it to look "sad" as you put it, water it that day and the day after the rest of them get watered. This usually coincides with the top inch or so of soil being dry on the rest.
 
Yeah. I can tell the difference between sad and normal time of day. The yellow moruga stems start drooping and the leaves feel like tissue paper instead of crunchy.
 
I used to fertilize on roughly the same schedule as you, but after having a seasoned gardener come take care of my plants while I was on vacation and coming back to them being healthier than ever, I started fertilizing with a half strength 8-4-4 (bonnie herb and vegetable) nearly every watering. I also started watering much more frequently (live in southern AZ though), as in every two days minimum. This is contrary to everything I read but the results have been phenomenal. I have good drainage and going more than 3 days leads to sad plants in this climate, so I don't know what will be best for you but try more water and fertilizer and see what happens. Also, definitely more light. (this is for c chinense)
 
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