Does anyone know how I can raise the PH of soil other than using lime? Lime is not available to me at the moment so I need to find another method. I think low PH levels is causing my blossom drop. After testing the soil today all my potted plants range anywhere from 4 - 5.5. And The plants I have planted in the ground are all just about right on 6.8. The plants in the ground, hot and green pepper have a better pod set. I have also tested my tap water and the PH is 5.0, which is probably causing the pot's PH to drop much more than the in ground plants. So if anyone can tell me a fairly quick effective way to raise PH a little that would be great.
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soil How to raise the PH of soil
- Thread starter FadeToBlack
- Start date
They have had 3 doses of miracle gro bone meal since August.
I have seen a decline in the PH since I tested 2 weeks ago.
I also don't have any of those other items available on this 3 mile island.
I have seen a decline in the PH since I tested 2 weeks ago.
I also don't have any of those other items available on this 3 mile island.
This is the bone meal product I am using.
http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod70240
Its not like your typical miracle gro liquid steroid fertilizer.
http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod70240
Its not like your typical miracle gro liquid steroid fertilizer.
IMO the best is a well matured compost, it has a pH of about 6.5 and all the major nutrients are freely available to plants, essential trace elements are available, as well as buffering plant roots from an unsuitable pH in surrounding soil.
so first suggestion is :
COMPOST properly !
Adding composted material that contains enough positive bases so that the pH of the compost is greater than the soil, it will raise the pH.
Conversely if the compost has a lower pH than the soil it will lower the pH of the soil. As far as the buffering goes there are two things to consider, if you are adding something to the soil that is roughly neutral it will tend to push the soil pH toward neutral. Also, organic matter has exchange sites (like clay) and will increase the soils cation exchange capacity. Greater cation exchange capacity means greater buffering capacity which means it takes more acid or base to change pH.
There are a few threads here with compost additives, to push it either way also.
Second suggestion:
There are mny different versions of lime that you may be able to get your hands on ?
Agricultural lime – (Calcium carbonate) is finely ground limestone (chalk). Mined limestone, i.e. not chemically treated, is a safe choice to raise pH in garden beds. Although it takes several weeks to have an effect, it is longer acting than other sources of lime, and can be watered in around plants. Agricultural lime can be worked into the top 15 cm of soil when preparing garden beds. It takes less lime to raise the pH of sandy soils than it does to change clay soils.
Dolomite – (Calcium magnesium carbonate) is limestone with a higher proportion of magnesium than agricultural lime, and is applied in the same way. It is a good way to raise soil pH on sandy soils with fairly low organic matter content because both calcium and magnesium leach easily from these soils.
Quick lime – (Calcium oxide) is made by heating limestone in a furnace to remove carbon dioxide. It is very caustic and unsuitable for garden use.
Hydrated or slaked lime – (Calcium hydroxide) is also known as brickies or builders’ lime because it is used to harden mortar. Hydrated lime is made by soaking quick lime in water to form hydroxides. It is more soluble and faster acting than agricultural lime, but its effects do not last as long. This lime can burn roots and should not be used on beds that contain plants. It should also be applied a month before organic matter and fertilisers or nitrogen can be lost through conversion to ammonia. Gloves and a mask should be worn when applying hydrated lime because it is very drying to skin and throat. Apply hydrated lime to the soil surface, and water it in.
3rd suggestion:
pure wood ash - though short lived it is a great temp fix.
Hope that helped ?
CM
so first suggestion is :
COMPOST properly !
Adding composted material that contains enough positive bases so that the pH of the compost is greater than the soil, it will raise the pH.
Conversely if the compost has a lower pH than the soil it will lower the pH of the soil. As far as the buffering goes there are two things to consider, if you are adding something to the soil that is roughly neutral it will tend to push the soil pH toward neutral. Also, organic matter has exchange sites (like clay) and will increase the soils cation exchange capacity. Greater cation exchange capacity means greater buffering capacity which means it takes more acid or base to change pH.
There are a few threads here with compost additives, to push it either way also.
Second suggestion:
There are mny different versions of lime that you may be able to get your hands on ?
Agricultural lime – (Calcium carbonate) is finely ground limestone (chalk). Mined limestone, i.e. not chemically treated, is a safe choice to raise pH in garden beds. Although it takes several weeks to have an effect, it is longer acting than other sources of lime, and can be watered in around plants. Agricultural lime can be worked into the top 15 cm of soil when preparing garden beds. It takes less lime to raise the pH of sandy soils than it does to change clay soils.
Dolomite – (Calcium magnesium carbonate) is limestone with a higher proportion of magnesium than agricultural lime, and is applied in the same way. It is a good way to raise soil pH on sandy soils with fairly low organic matter content because both calcium and magnesium leach easily from these soils.
Quick lime – (Calcium oxide) is made by heating limestone in a furnace to remove carbon dioxide. It is very caustic and unsuitable for garden use.
Hydrated or slaked lime – (Calcium hydroxide) is also known as brickies or builders’ lime because it is used to harden mortar. Hydrated lime is made by soaking quick lime in water to form hydroxides. It is more soluble and faster acting than agricultural lime, but its effects do not last as long. This lime can burn roots and should not be used on beds that contain plants. It should also be applied a month before organic matter and fertilisers or nitrogen can be lost through conversion to ammonia. Gloves and a mask should be worn when applying hydrated lime because it is very drying to skin and throat. Apply hydrated lime to the soil surface, and water it in.
3rd suggestion:
pure wood ash - though short lived it is a great temp fix.
Hope that helped ?
CM
make a small fire and throw sum oldplant material and wood in . the ash is rich stuf not only rasising ph but . it also add fertilizer to the soil. just likw hat evrybody else said. ash.
yall must be crazy
i aint settin my yard on fire
I'll wait for the lime from home depot
i aint settin my yard on fire
I'll wait for the lime from home depot
LUCKYDOG said:
Ya I got a charcoal grill
Was only kiddin
Can't you use coffee grinds. I know it does alter the soil pH one way or another. I seen it on HGTV, a long time ago.
I think Coffee grinds lowers the PH if im not mistaken