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I think I also have an Fe deficiency

Sarge

Sarge



What do you guys think? Its comkon across most of my seedlings the new growth is yellow, somewhat. The leaves aren't deformed their shape and current size looks fine just they seem yellow. My watering plan is quite tight. Not sure what the issue could be. Those charts ive seen suggest either iron or maganese.
 
Well balanced ferts.
 
I just use 3 part hydro fert and it works for me.
Grow, bloom, micro.
1/2 strength every other watering till root bound.
 
They I treat them as "hydro-in-dirt".
I.E. full mix every other watering.
 
They love it till they salt up and need repotting or planting out.
 
Gotrox said:
Well balanced ferts.
 
I just use 3 part hydro fert and it works for me.
Grow, bloom, micro.
1/2 strength every other watering till root bound.
 
They I treat them as "hydro-in-dirt".
I.E. full mix every other watering.
 
They love it till they salt up and need repotting or planting out.
Click to expand...
Ill have a look into some of the hydro nutes. I always thought those type of nutes wont be as effective in soil.

When you say salting up whats that mean? I can see salt like stuff on the bottom of most of my potted plants.
 
I use Bontanicare's CalMag, and I grow in soil only. My peppers love it. 
 
Yellowing, especially in peppers that young, is most often caused by overwatering. I know you said you don't think that's the issue, but at that age it still could be.  How often are you watering, and what is your approach?
 
geeme said:
I use Bontanicare's CalMag, and I grow in soil only. My peppers love it. 
 
Yellowing, especially in peppers that young, is most often caused by overwatering. I know you said you don't think that's the issue, but at that age it still could be.  How often are you watering, and what is your approach?
Click to expand...
 
Is cal mag magnesium or manganese?
 
I water when the pots are near weightless and the plants leaves start to wilt when they're not in the sun or exposed to heat. I fill a tray about 1.5" with water and let the pots sit in there for a couple of minutes to absorb water. Its usually long enough to get the soil moist without wetting the top layer. They then sit on chicken wire and drip before I move them back under lights or into the sun.
 
They are probably due for a potting up, their brothers and sisters which were recently potted up are doing well in the yard now, although watering in the yard has almost become a daily job, it gets very dry out there quite quick.
 
I'm gonna pot these up with some new potting mix and a little other additives, they should have the nutes they need if they depleted what was in this current mix.
 
CalMag is calcium and magnesium.
 
It is common for new leaves to be a bit lighter in color if they grow fast, and will darken over time.  Not having watched yours grow nor seeing them within a larger ambient lighting setting I can't say for sure that this is the situation you are facing but I would wait and see before giving them a lot of extra nutes.  Deficiencies of those two (Fe/Mn) nutes tend to cause more significant structural deformation on the leaf surface not just a little lighter green hue.
 
I have never found my first year plants to need rinsed out or repotted due to salt buildup.  That seems like using too much fertilizer although the pot pictured does look like it is going to be a bit undersized soon.
 
Sarge said:
Ill have a look into some of the hydro nutes. I always thought those type of nutes wont be as effective in soil.

When you say salting up whats that mean? I can see salt like stuff on the bottom of most of my potted plants.
Click to expand...
 
Salts are formed by a chemical reaction between:
Click to expand...
Salts always form when using ferts, which is one reason your need to repot (dirt) or flush (hydro) eventually.
 
Also why you usually want to use a tried and true mixture instead of mixing your own combo.
 
If you are mixing your own, you can easily bind the nutes (like calcium, magnesium and iron for example) and the plants will show a defiency in the bound element.
 
I am going to pot up these plants tomorrow to much larger, final pot homes. I'm going to use fresh organic potting mix and add nothing to it. Then in a month or two I will change the soil in them when they grow and add some nutes.
 
I'll see how they go in a couple more days, I'll give the leaves a chance to grow further.
 
It doesn't look like CalMag is all that bad, seems alot of people use it and its good for tomatoes and peppers.
 
You guys recon this stuff will do just fine?
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121158326785?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
I don't mix my own soils. I have no idea what I am doing, I usually just buy compost and gardening soil for the yard and potting mix with additives for my potted plants and feed with blood bone, seasol and powerfeed when necessary.
 
Gotrox said:
Salts always form when using ferts, which is one reason your need to repot (dirt) or flush (hydro) eventually.
 
Also why you usually want to use a tried and true mixture instead of mixing your own combo.
 
If you are mixing your own, you can easily bind the nutes (like calcium, magnesium and iron for example) and the plants will show a defiency in the bound element.
Click to expand...
 
While I don't mean to start a debate about it, I don't find this level of attention to be needed unless a grower is in an area with really, really bad soil.    My plants grow well, have  high yield, with no repotting except the initial transfer from an indoor 3" starter pot to their final destination. 
 
The only bought items I use, including not buying soil, are a small amount of generic granular 10-10-10 fertilizer, epsom salts, and some peat moss for a germination mix if a nearby oak tree doesn't shed enough spanish moss in a given year.  I wouldn't even add the epsom salts if I decided to put excess seed back in the soil but that adds to pepper processing work to extract and save seed, plus epsom salt is dirt cheap.
 
Everything else is compost and existing (poor quality clay) ground soil amended with vegetative debris that ages and gets reused year after year.  There is no salt buildup problem manifesting itself in any way, so in my opinion the key thing is to not overfertilize and otherwise those exotic tried and true fertilizer mixes are a problem not a solution if you have to keep worrying about salt buildup and repotting.
 
My point is, compost.  Compost need not even be manure or worm castings, just whatever is available.  Nature does a good job by herself, saving lots of work and money unless you're doing hydro.
 
 
unless a grower is in an area with really, really bad soil.
Click to expand...
 
High alkaline high desert soil with sagebrush and tumble weeds for organic material?
And deep---10,000 years of it.
That and shortshort season, and some projects of 2 or 3 plants per small container, and still getting pods.
 
Not a debate, but many aren't blessed with even moderately acceptable conditions.
 
It's easy to "over love" you plants and give them too much on the basis of some odd coloration or comment by others.
 
A little tweak of PH or the addition of something not needed, or too many combinations, or mixed improperly can easily bind the element your plants are showing signs of being short of.
 
Salting up is not a problem in a garden, it can be flushed easily if you go crazy and use a couple acres worth on a dozen square feet.
I was mentioning pots and hydro.
 
All around my little plot gets alkaline crust every year.
 
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