Is Hydro Faster to fruit? How much?

What I am wondering is if folk think peppers start fruiting based on age or size?  Have observed hydro will generally grow some plants much faster.  But of what I read, most articles are on crops which fruit based on the light cycle.  Peppers dont really care about the daylight length.  Instead, they seem to fruit based on age.  But I wonder if it isn't size also. 

Maybe hydro will grow vegitative state faster but will a pepper flower / fruit faster.
 
I know this isn't about hydro but, when my chocolate bhutlah was into it's second month after germ, and was only three inches tall it tried to flower.
 
Major Pain said:
I know this isn't about hydro but, when my chocolate bhutlah was into it's second month after germ, and was only three inches tall it tried to flower.
 

Now that is fast for any chinense.  Was it a single / freak of the lot?  How were you growing it.  Another thing people grow indoors has a few varieties called auto flowering which start really early and without change in light, but I have never known anything to trigger that in peppers.
 
I don't have a lot of space inside my apartment, but it was a single plant grow out. It was in a six inch wide by five inch high plastic pot filled with Fox Farms Ocean Forest straight from the bag.  The light source was a 45W blue/red LED light panel about 15 inches above the plant.   It was the weirdest thing... my Black Pearl didn't do it, nor did my Indian Carbon last year.  I did the exact same thing to all of them.. same pots/soil/light.
 
willard3 said:
As a general rule, hydro produces fruit 30% faster than soil growing.
 

That is about what I read for another crop.  But that crop is daylight sensitive.  Are you sure it is the same for peppers?  Part of this is trying to figure out what puts them into flowering / fruiting mode.  If it is size of plant, I can see hydro speeding it up cause it speeds up growth.  But if it is age then I am not sure what would cause the shift from veg to flower.
 
Since you have to be careful not to over water them, I don't see how it's possible to grow peppers hydroponically.
 
Ghaleon said:
Since you have to be careful not to over water them, I don't see how it's possible to grow peppers hydroponically.
 
It's all about how much air is in the root zone.  In hydroponics, you have to carefully control the temperature in the nutrient reservoir, because water (or any liquid, for that matter)  will only hold oxygen up to a certain temperature.  Once you exceed that temperature, the oxygen is released to atmosphere.
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By contrast, in soil, you don't want to keep the plants too wet, because water will fill the air spaces in the ground or container, and rather than holding oxygen, will displace it.
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The matter isn't whether or not the roots are wet, per se.  It's all about oxygen. 
 
Ghaleon said:
Since you have to be careful not to over water them, I don't see how it's possible to grow peppers hydroponically.
 
KIMG0224.jpeg

Dutch Bucket Throwdown 2018 Yellow Brain Strain (current-Giant Red Rocoto behind it and aji arnaucho behind that)
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Same space winter of 2016 ( 10ft x 8ft corner in my basement) with a serrano, Chinese 5 color, and a Leutschauer Paprika in Dutch Buckets. This was after trimming too.
Started seeds in rockwool cubes and planted in 4 gallon buckets full of perlite. 55 gallon reservoir with a solution of General Hydroponics Flora, Bloom, and Micro with a pump set to go every hour for 15 minutes during the day. 2 x Hydrofarm 4ft- 8 tube T5 System on 14 hour on/ 10 hour off cycle.
 
 
Seems to work fine ;)
 
AJ Drew said:
 
That is about what I read for another crop.  But that crop is daylight sensitive.  Are you sure it is the same for peppers?  Part of this is trying to figure out what puts them into flowering / fruiting mode.  If it is size of plant, I can see hydro speeding it up cause it speeds up growth.  But if it is age then I am not sure what would cause the shift from veg to flower.
 
There are numerous ways to induce flowering. One of the easy ways, is to drop N.  A lot of growers make the mistake of dropping it, and keeping it down, though.  Since we're not growing a once-off crop, we don't want to do that.  If you use the N-drop trick to induce flowering, it's good to get it right back up, once those flowers appear.  When the hormones for flowering are present, no amount of N that you add is going to make it stop flowering. (just as it's a common misconception that keeping N levels constant will prevent flowering)  Dropping N during flowering can lead to Nitrogen deficiencies down the road, however.  
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The truth is, most plants are pre-programmed to flower when certain conditions are met, or else when they might be dying.  Personally, I don't like hydro growing peppers, for numerous reasons, but I'll definitely not tell you that it takes longer.  When your process is dialed in, you'll definitely get fruit faster.  You won't need to "induce" anything.  If you're growing so many peppers, as a commercial venture, that your wallet is bursting, you might want to use tricks to decrease time to market.  But you will most likely find that results in an inferior product, overalll.
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I always found that my hydro grown crops had a nasty metallic taste/feel to them, as well as a general diminished flavor.  Not really sure what that was about, but in soil or containers, never noticed it.
 
Ghaleon said:
It's crazy how sometimes someone just puts a seed in the ground, waters the plant as needed and everything works out great and other times you damn near have to become a scientist about it.
 
I grew up the kid of poor dirt farmers.  We could grow anything.
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Moved to Florida, can't grow shit if it ain't in a container.
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Whether you were being sarcastic or profound, you have no idea how true your statement is.  Those who can grow easily in their native soil, will never know just how good they have it. :D
 
That makes me wonder about Florida growers who move to your old area and have the same problem.

What would each you be doing or not doing to lead to the negative outcomes? These things seem worth studying.
 
Ghaleon said:
That makes me wonder about Florida growers who move to your old area and have the same problem.

What would each you be doing or not doing to lead to the negative outcomes? These things seem worth studying.
 
I don't know about others...  but give me back Nebraska/Kansas, and my only problems will be the weather.  :cool:
 
Ghaleon said:
It's crazy how sometimes someone just puts a seed in the ground, waters the plant as needed and everything works out great and other times you damn near have to become a scientist about it.
 

Have found that you might not get the absolute best yields organic and in the ground, it is the most forgiving if you have plenty of organic material in your soil.  On the other hand, it seems like it takes more time to fix a problem if you grow that way.  From friends who grow indoor with hydroponics, I get the idea you can fix a nutrient problem in a couple days with the right chemicals.  Ah, but you can screw things up in a couple of hours with the wrong chemicals.
 
AJ Drew said:
 
Have found that you might not get the absolute best yields organic and in the ground, it is the most forgiving if you have plenty of organic material in your soil.  On the other hand, it seems like it takes more time to fix a problem if you grow that way.  From friends who grow indoor with hydroponics, I get the idea you can fix a nutrient problem in a couple days with the right chemicals.  Ah, but you can screw things up in a couple of hours with the wrong chemicals.
 
Outdoors, and in the ground, in my experience and opinion, is always best.  However, the limiting factor is nature. (i.e., the weather, pests)
 
Indoors gives you much better control over the process, from start to finish - but does so at the expense of natural processes - those which give you an "insurance policy" against "aw shit" moments.  Yes, you can literally f- your crop into the ground, in a matter of minutes with hydroponics.  And I still say it just tastes like it's a rushed product.
 
A good happy medium, however, is container grown plants in a grow room.  Large containers, or drain to waste.   Not quite as fast as pure hydro, but way more forgiving.  Less startup cost than pure hydro. (but still more expensive than outdoors) Year long growing in any hardiness zone.  And, you can incorporate organics, which isn't really possible with hydro, with anything but lettuce. (with the possible exception of aquaponics)
 
It's all about pros and cons.
 
Ghaleon said:
Since you have to be careful not to over water them, I don't see how it's possible to grow peppers hydroponically.
 
Just from reading cause I am no hydro expert at all.  In hyroponic systems, the water is either airaited or is drained and refilled so the air gets to the roots.  In the ground or even in containers, there is no airation of the water.  Then many different things can gang up on your peppers and go wrong.

Personally, I think the warnings are almost overkill.  The real problem is over loving.  People love on their plants so much it just seems right to water and feed them.  So they go overboard.  What most recommend is that you let them dry out before watering.  Probably not the best advice, but it is the easiest to give to new growers because if you dont they will be out there with a hose three times a day.
 
Then again, I am always learning.
 
AJ Drew said:
 
Just from reading cause I am no hydro expert at all.  In hyroponic systems, the water is either airaited or is drained and refilled so the air gets to the roots.  In the ground or even in containers, there is no airation of the water.  Then many different things can gang up on your peppers and go wrong.

Personally, I think the warnings are almost overkill.  The real problem is over loving.  People love on their plants so much it just seems right to water and feed them.  So they go overboard.  What most recommend is that you let them dry out before watering.  Probably not the best advice, but it is the easiest to give to new growers because if you dont they will be out there with a hose three times a day.
 
Then again, I am always learning.
That seems correct to me. There's also kratky, where the tops of the exposed roots are left exposed to air and the bottoms are for feeding.
 
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