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Leaf Cupping - Calcium?

Hello :)
 
Some of the new growth leaves on my 6 superhots are curling/cupping. 
 
I recently (I think) successfully recovered from poor hardening off on my part. Temps have recently >swiftly< become much warmer. So perhaps my problem is related to lack of hardening off or weather shift. They get full sun and are in 5 gallon buckets with good drainage and good draining soil. I have kept them consistently moist however. I have checked for aphids, and notta.
 
I will try and get some photos, but in the interim I was hoping for some advice on a quick and affective application of calcium. Could I dilute some milk and 'water' with that? Use that diluted solution as a foliar spray? Dissolve a tums and use as foliar spray?
 
When I made the soil I don't believe I added anything which included calcium but I did mix in some epsom salt> does the magnesium interfere with calcium? Think I read that somewhere.
 
Anyways thanks in advance for any help! :)
 
 
 
Pictures make all the difference in the world in a case like this. Could be a case of over-fertilizing, based on the "cupping" description. "Curling" is something altogether different. Pics will help us help you.
 
This is not a photo of my plants. I grabbed one off the net that resembles it. Granted it's not this bad, and is only affecting new growth. They were transferred a couple weeks ago into 5 gallon buckets with my own mix. Perhaps it's too rich in fertilizer. I haven't fertilized at all outside of what's in the mix. 
 
I will take a photo of my plants soon! Thanks for the assistance.
 
v9hX3.jpg
 
Hi. twisted and misshapen leaves as per the above photo are normally a calcium deficiency. Add some CalMag to your next water. The calcium will help new growth be normal and the Magnesium will green the leaves up. The problem is that's not curing the problem that caused this.

I would consider gently tipping the plant out of the pot, just like when you pot on. Check the roots and moisture of the compost mix and adjust your watering/feeding as necessary.
 
Could very well be spider mites. I had the same issue last year (all my plants looked like your picture) and it was spider mites. Considering you get it mostly on new growth this would be my first guess.
 
I would advise using something chemical for this, as neem oil (or some other type of oil/soap concoction isn't as efficient and also leaves your leaves sticky).
 
Mine was like that, i used calcium nitrate in water and the new leavs is ok. I also used epsom salt and i used some humus to get more life in the soil.
 
Would diluted milk/tums be an option for a one time hit for calcium. Either as 'watering' or a foliar spray? I'd rather take that approach then head to home depot today if possible :)
 
For the soil I used Kellog's Organic Raised Bed & Potting Mix. Added some *not too much* organic vegetable compost, some epsom salt, some perlite, and mixed it all really well.
 
I'll explore the spider mite's idea after I hit it with some calcium methinks.
 
Thanks for the input everyone!
 
pwb said:
Mine was like that, i used calcium nitrate in water and the new leavs is ok. I also used epsom salt and i used some humus to get more life in the soil.
 
Perfect! Once the soil food web is up and going you will no longer need to supplement Cal and Mag. Calcium deficiency should be a instant indicator of poor biological soil fertility.
 
Cal-Mag is a good quick fix, but for the log term let the soil do the work and sit back and enjoy a cold one. :beer:
 
ebh said:
I would advise using something chemical for this, as neem oil (or some other type of oil/soap concoction isn't as efficient and also leaves your leaves sticky).
 
Nonsense says I! :)
 
A huge part of using oil based sprays is water temperature (70-80*F) and proper emulsification. If you're ever curious about how well you've blended a solution, let it sit without agitation for 5-10 minutes. It's usually an eye opener.
 
Many marketed products are just a pre-mixed blends of oil/essential oil or watered down plant extracts, unless you refer to avid, imidacloprid, etc..... also known as overkill. Especially for homegrown food crops, when something less toxic can easily provide control with proper use and effective spray technique.
 
This is the listed ingredients for the Kellogg soil I used:
 
Recycled forest products, coir, perlite, dehydrated chicken manure, composted chicken manure, hydrolyzed feather meal, peat moss, kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano.
 
Spicy Mushroom said:
This is the listed ingredients for the Kellogg soil I used:
 
Recycled forest products, coir, perlite, dehydrated chicken manure, composted chicken manure, hydrolyzed feather meal, peat moss, kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano.
 
I don't mind Kellogg as a brand (other than the "Bio-solids" incident)
 
However, I'm not sure Homedepot, Lowes, or whom ever stores it well. Sitting in the hot sun in sealed bags cant be to good for biological activity! But you can bring it back to life with some fresh amendments quite easily. Look for fresh compost or worm castings on craigslist. Or start your own if you have room.
 
I think my worm bin is one of my best garden investments so far, and if you want to compost, make sure you use grass clippings as they are full of good stuff like Microbes and N.
worm%20bin.png
 
Looks like the soil is far too wet to me.

ebh said:
I would advise using something chemical for this, as neem oil (or some other type of oil/soap concoction isn't as efficient and also leaves your leaves sticky).
Neem is very effective but most people are not aware that only two or so sources have neem that is high quality.
If the neem is not from India don't waste your money.
 
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