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My chilli adventure and problems... with photos

A

Auton0my

Hi Guys.

As I said in my intro - I have been a chilli lover for years, and started growing for the first time last year. But much more seriously this year.

It has been a great journey. I cant believe how much there is to learn. And all of it has been awesome - I've been like an information sponge lately... trying to absorb all the stuff I can. The other thing is I can't believe how much pleasure and satisfaction is to be had with it all. My green thumb is swollen right now.

Along the way I have encountered a few things that I had to deal with - but by asking questions and researching I have generally found an answer or solution - till now!

I'd like to share my photos with you... and then hope that you guys may be able to help me with some issues I have got - that I cant solve or find solutions for.

First off - I started my 'garden' in propagation trays, that were on a heat mat. I got good results with near 100% germination of all my seeds. These included lots of exotics from India, Bangladesh and Trinidad. I'm so looking forward to these. I cant wait!! Scorpions, 7 pods, Nagas, Jolokias, Habs... this is going to a fun ride!

After about 6 weeks - being new to this I didn't really know what to expect at this stage - but they looked good to me - good growth and strong plants. The only thing that concerned me is the slight yellowing in the tops of the plants. I checked PH and it was 6.


This photo is where I'm at now. As you can see, they are all fairly compact with lots of foliage... but they are showing some interesting (concerning?) features - some yellowing, some with very twisted leaves, some deep puckering, brown staining...
P1011161-1.jpg




I am particularly concerned with the next one. It is the 7 Pod - it is showing lots of brown and dark brown 'staining' on the leaves. This is the worst example of it.. but some of the others are also showing the same thing. And also the heavily twisted leaves.
P1011154-1.jpg

P1011156-2.jpg



The following is a Red Savina. I've added this photo to give an example of the kind of growth I'm getting. The plants are quite compact, with large leaves and growth on what is a shortish plant (4 inches tall or so). It is in a 100mm / 4 inch pot.
P1011160-1.jpg


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So, some information that may assist you in giving your opinions:

* Early on, while in the propagation box, I did have to adjust PH. The plants were yellowing, so I checked the PH and it was 8. A quick adjustment to PH6 and the plants were looking nice and green in no time.

* All waterings since then have maintained PH6. A check of the soil/water also confirm that the PH in the pots is ~6.

* once transplanted into the 100mm pots I alternated waterings between using just straight water and then 1/2 strength (10ml per 5 litres) Dutch Fest "Bloom" the next time... and so on, back and forth.

* the plants were raised under a 110w CFL till they were about 3 inches tall, and then moved under a 600w HPS (GE LucaGrow). I started out with about 80cm between the plants and light... and then moved as close as 45cm for the last 2 weeks. Fans were used to circulate air and keep plants cool. Ambient air temp was 21 degrees Celsius (70f) and soil temps about 18 C (65 F).

* I did notice the Jalapeno and Capsicums had some very minor aphid activity... but I took care of that immediately with organic spray. No pests have been detected on the other varieties.

* I did apply one very small amount of fertiliser (with trace elements) to the top surface of soil in each pot. The amount I added was just a small "pinch" between my thumb and forefinger. I understand now that chillis probably dont like being fertilised.. but I did it before I knew that.

* Since being transplanted, I did one watering with "MaxiCrop" seaweed/food about 2 weeks ago.

* Hmmm... I dont know what else to say.

---
So, what do you guys reckon?
Advice?
Suggestions?
Feedback?

I'm particularly curious if you think the plants are ok. Not just the spotted and yellow ones... but all of them.

Do you think they are to bushy and compact? Should they be taller and less compact?

Are the spotted ones doomed?

Thanks for reading everyone. If you got this far I applaud you. Well done! I owe you.
 
Well, I am not an expert but think that they will bounce back. My first thought was a low magnesium content in your soil and was going to recommend some Epsom Salt treatment. But, the brown spots have me confused. Still looks like a nutrient deficiency of some sorts to me and I'm sure those more knowledgeable than me will be on later on. Don't despair, those plants don't look too bad and look quit healthy otherwise.
 
They look a lot like some of my chillis (though yours look better :D )
I too used Maxicrop seaweed fert!
Some of mine have bubbly leaves like yours and i always thought that may have been calcium deficiency. I can't offer a solution though as i'm still battling with my sick babies :P
I think they may be so short and bushy because you had them under hps instead of MH? Just a guess though. Growth wise they look healthy and should shoot up now that i presume you have them outdoors yea?

What kind of soil are you using?

Perhaps a dumb question, but how did you lower your soil ph from 8 to 6?
 
This last season I had a few plants with brownish spots like those. It happen later in the season. I'd like to learn what that may be myself.

I hope someone helps you soon.

Peace,
P. Dreadie
 
Hi guys. Sincere thanks for the replies.

Lancel, I only had to lower the PH when the seedlings were in Rockwool in my propagation box. The nutrient solution was at PH8. I used "PH Down" to lower the nutrient solution to PH6.
I transplanted to Premium Potting Mix at about 4 weeks and just by alternating between using water and water/weak nutrient mix it has been at ~PH6. I haven't had to correct it since transplanting.

As for the lighting... they say that the HPS (ge Lucagrow) is a multi-spectrum light source. Asking my local hydroponics guys (and speaking to trusty Neil at THSC) they all reckon the lighting is appropriate and I don't need use MH. Because I have no experience in the matter, I have to trust the pros on this one.

And I did move them outside on the weekend... but we have had a miserable couple of days with the weather - and more crap weather due for the rest of the week... that I moved them back inside under the HPS tonight.

BTW: I forgot to mention. I am cycling the light on for 18 hours. Off for 6.

Cheers guys!
Looking forward to more responses and suggestions.
 
A light spraying with epsom salts will darken them up quite a bit. Mix in 1 TBSP to 1 gallon of water and mist the top and bottoms of the leaves either early in the morning or in the evening. Alternatively you could also sprinkle a small pinch of epsom salt onto the soil and water it in.

Either method will work, but the foliar spray will be quicker.

As for light times I've read studies that have reported that chili plants can use all the light they can get (24 hours of light) for the first 5 to 7 weeks, but after that period they perform best with a 14 hours on 10 hours off cycle. However there are a lot of people here that run them longer and have excellent results.
 
hey Rob, Are they still under the 600 and Ya just taken outside for a Bit and to Take the Pics ?

Mine were going great guns under Lights, then when they got to bout the size You have they did similar and heaps started to Die, everything was Correct but as using coir mainly i think it was a Salt Buildup as watering in Pots with Hydro ya dont get run off and its lots of feed so i believe the Salts Build Up and cause Shit to Happen..

all did then after freaking out was to chop off the Top couple of inch's like a Mini Prune Back Then put Outside and Just let get sprinklered and all goood Now, they made a Come Back and going Great Guns..

So chop tops off then Outside, It should be Ok as they growing now and the temps are Ok (mine been outside mow for over a Month and Ya only 5 Hrs down, so all goood then a goood water to clear the crap out and should Be Ok..

I use FLORA KLEEN now and highly recommend it.
(from bottle) FloraKleen is formulated to remover fertilizer residue that can accumulate in hydroponic systems, growing media and Potting soils over time..
Use FloraKleen monthly to maintain your hydroponic system or Potted Plants and eliminate excess salts that accumulate over time from regular fertilizer applications.

Dissolves away accumulated fertilizer salts

Reduces Plant stress from excess and Imbalanced fertilizers

Releases nutrient bond between plants and System..

;)

Hope that helps, geez ya need the Plants to Live........
Take care mate..
 
Blister said:
As for light times I've read studies that have reported that chili plants can use all the light they can get (24 hours of light) for the first 5 to 7 weeks, but after that period they perform best with a 14 hours on 10 hours off cycle. However there are a lot of people here that run them longer and have excellent results.
Click to expand...

I've read that about 24 hours for the first 5-7 weeks but after that I believe 18-20 hours was recommended for maximum growth of pepper plants
 
This was my first real season of growing outdoors due to moving and living in stupid places previous years. Turns out that chileplants apparently don't like natural light 24/7... Didn't get any fruit to set until the end of july when we finally had a few hours of darkness every night. The plants didn't seem to suffer, but they didn't flower or grow very much either.

I so envy people like POTAWIE who live far south and can grow chiles outdoors, I'm going to have to bring the plants inside for darkness every night next season... :(
 
POTAWIE said:
I've read that about 24 hours for the first 5-7 weeks but after that I believe 18-20 hours was recommended for maximum growth of pepper plants
Click to expand...

I have the first copy of the study on tomato plants conducted in 1998. They conclude:

Our results indicate that the best photoperiod for a greenhouse tomato crop is 14 h. Photoperiods longer than 14 h did not increase tomato plant growth and yields while photoperiods of 20 h or more caused leaf chloroses and may even decrease growth and yields. However, during the first 5 weeks of treatment, tomato plants responded positively to the supplement light energy provided under continuous light. So, it may be possible to use long photoperiods (20 h and more) for a few weeks (5 weeks) to grow tomato plants during months of low natural light PPF.
Click to expand...

The second version of the study was a review of available data and was compiled in 1999. I don't have the full article, but the abstract states:

Optimal growth and yields of tomato and sweet pepper were obtained under photoperiods of 14 and 20 hours, respectively. Longer photoperiods did not further improve growth and yields and even decreased growth and yields in some cases. Although long term use of continuous light is detrimental to tomato and pepper plants, vegetative growth and fruit production of both species can be improved by short term use (5 to 7 weeks) of continuous lighting. Compared to shorter photoperiods, continuous light (24-h photoperiod) increased the leaf levels of hexoses in tomato, of sucrose in pepper and of starch in both species.
Click to expand...

I'd like to get a copy of the second article to see how the results differed from the first version as the original findings demonstrated that plants exposed to photo periods above 14 hours had slightly decreased growth and yields. It would seemingly come down to a cost/benefit ratio at this point and without actually knowing how much extra growth one would get out of increasing light times past 14 hours it's hard for me to decide on whether it would be worth it.
 
MrArboc said:
This was my first real season of growing outdoors due to moving and living in stupid places previous years. Turns out that chileplants apparently don't like natural light 24/7... Didn't get any fruit to set until the end of july when we finally had a few hours of darkness every night. The plants didn't seem to suffer, but they didn't flower or grow very much either.

I so envy people like POTAWIE who live far south and can grow chiles outdoors, I'm going to have to bring the plants inside for darkness every night next season... :(
Click to expand...

That wouldn't be much of a problem if you only have a few plants, but if you have a lot, I'd try building a temporary structure so that I could throw a tarp over the plants for the night. I've done the 'bring them out, bring them in' thing and it's not much fun.
 
Blister said:
That wouldn't be much of a problem if you only have a few plants, but if you have a lot, I'd try building a temporary structure so that I could throw a tarp over the plants for the night. I've done the 'bring them out, bring them in' thing and it's not much fun.
Click to expand...

I'm planning something like 20-40 plants, so bringing them inside every night is doable. Not a lot of fun, but possible. A temporary "darkhouse" would be nice and I have the space for it, but I'm not very good at building things;)
 
You don't really have to build anything. You could even use something like lawn chairs. Place them around the plants and drape a tarp over them. Put a couple of rocks around the edges to hold it down and you're set. But like you say 20-40 plants is doable.
 
Blister said:
I have the first copy of the study on tomato plants conducted in 1998. They conclude:



The second version of the study was a review of available data and was compiled in 1999. I don't have the full article, but the abstract states:



I'd like to get a copy of the second article to see how the results differed from the first version as the original findings demonstrated that plants exposed to photo periods above 14 hours had slightly decreased growth and yields. It would seemingly come down to a cost/benefit ratio at this point and without actually knowing how much extra growth one would get out of increasing light times past 14 hours it's hard for me to decide on whether it would be worth it.
Click to expand...

Both articles say 14hours is best for tomatoes but when it comes to peppers I believe 20 hours is the only number mentioned in the articles as ideal. The article is also talking about supplemental light in a greenhouse environment and not only artificial lighting
"Tomato and sweet pepper plants do not take advantage (no increase in yield) when grown under photoperiods longer than 14 h (tomato) or 20 h (pepper). Tomato plants, but not sweet pepper, develop leaf chlorosis under continuous light"
See excerpt from the article
http://www.thehotpepper.com/showthread.php?t=9418page=2
 
Thanks for the responses all.

I still don't know what the brown staining is on the leaves... I guess it must be quite rare to see it.

I will try Neil's recommendations and report back with results.
 
MrArboc said:
This was my first real season of growing outdoors due to moving and living in stupid places previous years. Turns out that chileplants apparently don't like natural light 24/7... Didn't get any fruit to set until the end of july when we finally had a few hours of darkness every night. The plants didn't seem to suffer, but they didn't flower or grow very much either.

I so envy people like POTAWIE who live far south and can grow chiles outdoors, I'm going to have to bring the plants inside for darkness every night next season... :(
Click to expand...

ROFL!

Nice quip as usual, Mr. A...!:lol::lol:

Regarding the OP - Can no one here suggest some help/ cause for browning leaves? I'd like to know myself...
 
Auton0my said:
Thanks for the responses all.

I still don't know what the brown staining is on the leaves... I guess it must be quite rare to see it.

I will try Neil's recommendations and report back with results.
Click to expand...

You could also check out orangehero's link. A quick search on google using Purple Leaves turned up a lot of information that points to a general Phosphorus deficiency. I found a different site that describes a similar problem on tomato plants

Older Tomato leaves will turn purple, especially on the undersides. This is caused by a deficiency of phosphorous and is most noticeable early in the season when a combination of un-developed root systems and cool soil limits the amount of phosphorous taken up by affected plants. Applying a balanced soluble fertilizer to foliage or around the base of each plant, will alleviate the condition.
Click to expand...

LINK

You can also check out the Main Page for other information on plant ailments
 
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