hydroponics New User -Hydropnics - many more flowers than peppers..

[webcan]

HI, I am a new user so hi all
 
I have a few questions that hope can be answered.
 
Question 1: I have a few different plants with similar symptoms as they either produce very little fruit in comparison to the flowers or no fruit but many flowers..
                   What drip timing should I set it for? at the moment I have it on "45min Off" and "15min On"

Question 2: I attached an image with is what I think is a over fertilized plant leaf, is it burnt? and is there anything else wrong with it?
 
  
------------------------Setup and Nutrition ---------------------
  I use hydroponics with a drip and flow system ( roots do not stay in water as it drains ). ( Image attached )
 
I use MasterBlend with Calcium Nitrate with Magnesium sulfate ( Epson salt ) as directed for tomatoes and peppers.  ( I try to keep it around 2.0 EC )
***Formula used is 24 -12 - 24 grams ( for 10 gallons of water ) Mixed Master+Mag to water first then add the Calcium Nitrate ( To avoid nutri lock ) ( 12=magnesium Sulfate )***
Extra: Vitamin B+ complete,Bloom Raw Microbes,Endo Mycorrhizae,Hygrozyme.
 
I have 2 Fans Oscillating the air around the room. ( pointed mostly at the Peppers )
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

[willard3]

I don't know much about your system, but I have been doing hydro for years and I never turn the nutrient pump off.
 
Flower/fruit inequality is characteristic of chiles, especially if you are growing different chiles.

 

[webcan]

 HI! thanks for responding..
1: actually I got 1 hot pepper on my habanro plant..but probably hundred or so flowers.. does this seem right?
2: My Carolina Reeper if full grown now and has had probably close to a 50 flowers and I even hand pollinated once and still no peppers.
3: The only one that I can say that has peppers on it is the Jalapeno peppers.. and one of the the plants also is has a low count.
 
4 What do you think about the leaf in the picture ? does it look burnt or something else? This came from the Carolina Reeper ( after I raise the EC to almost 3.60 ) but then caught it and lowered it 4 days later to 2:00 by draining the water then adding some..

 

[willard3]

Patience is a virtue in chile growing.

 

[webcan]

Well I guess I was patient as I see 2 Jalapenos peppers that have gone from green to  Red
 
What do you think about the leaf in the picture ? does it look burnt or something else? This came from the Carolina Reeper ( after I raise the EC to almost 3.60 ) but then caught it and lowered it 4 days later to 2:00 by draining the water then adding some..

 

[D3monic]

Black bacterial leaf spot is fairly common indoors hydro. A lot of evaporative moisture and limited airflow. Add some fans, space plants so they don't touch. Prune leaves or branches so air can flow around and through the plant. Fans will help with pollination as well. 

 

[webcan]

HI! thanks Extreme .. one of my fans actually was off and it was the one that was pointed at the Carolina Reeper which the leaf you see in the pic comes from.. ( Its back on now    )
 
I will increase the air flow by pruning as I know I should be pruning more than I am right now.. and I will add some fans to the ceiling..
 
The location of my garden is actually in a basement furnace room of a 25 unit building in which I am the live in caretaker. ( it was full of junk and pretty much a waste of room.. so I gave it some life    )
 
 

 

[ELCouz]

Hello webcan,
 
Nice to see someone from Montréal!
 
Just an afterthought... I used to do all year hydro with peppers but what ever your hydro setup is... sun will always be better production wise unless you invest in a LOT of LED lights. I usually start them in DTW (no spreading of diseases this way, less PH swings) & coco setup in December and plant them in the garden (or bring them outside) in May...this way I already have a long start.
 
Harvest from end of July till beginning of November.
 
BTW, a fan with a moving motion is more than enough to self-pollinate the peppers. Shaking the stem can also help...this is no point pollinating them manually unless you want to isolate the breed.
 
Hope this help,
 
Laurent
 
 

 

[webcan]

Hello webcan,
 
Nice to see someone from Montréal!
 
Just an afterthought... I used to do all year hydro with peppers but what ever your hydro setup is... sun will always be better production wise unless you invest in a LOT of LED lights. I usually start them in DTW (no spreading of diseases this way, less PH swings) & coco setup in December and plant them in the garden (or bring them outside) in May...this way I already have a long start.
 
Harvest from end of July till beginning of November.
 
BTW, a fan with a moving motion is more than enough to self-pollinate the peppers. Shaking the stem can also help...this is no point pollinating them manually unless you want to isolate the breed.
 
Hope this help,
 
Laurent
 
 

 

HI! Thanks for response, Ya I think the reason for the lack of production could be lack of light, I am investing in some CREE Cobes and will see if this helps..
I read that the amount of light per day could be a factor as well..( how much light per day it receives )
 
1: How much light did your plants get per day? ( 12 hours, 14 hours, 16 hours, etc...  ?

 

[ELCouz]

6h to 22h ... so 16hrs...pepper can work with 24/7 lights unlike cannabis plants...I just feel there's more energy wasted.
 
I start the plants (20) indoor with no rush for pepper production so I didn't calculate the PAR values per sq.ft. 
 
I use 2x Mars 300W LED Grow Light (which in reality use 125w of power each) in a 24"x 48" x 60" grow tent. With a 30W led for the bottom row to get a light boost.
 
Grow tent with a thermostat controlled fan keep the air inside at 25C/77F precisely...too cold or too hot peppers don't like it either. Same with humidity. Reservoir temp is kept at 18C/64F
 
Just started last week with seedlings.
 
See attached pics to give you an idea.
 
Hope this helps,
Laurent
 

 
 

 

 

[Chilidude]

Peppers still need that night time, dont give them too many hours of light.

 

[ELCouz]

Peppers still need that night time, dont give them too many hours of light.

 
To further add...

 

Most works on artificial lighting of winter greenhouse vegetable crops studied the effects of photosynthetic photon flux but rarely photoperiod.
Over the last three years, we conducted experiments to find out the best photoperiods for production of greenhouse tomato and pepper.
We found that extending photoperiod up to 20 hrs increased productivity of pepper plants while continuous light (24 hrs) decreased yields. For tomato plants, productivity reached a maximum under a 14-hr photoperiod while longer photoperiods (16 to 24 hrs) did not increase yields.
For both pepper and tomato plants, optimal growth (shoot fresh and dry weights) was obtained under the same photoperiods that gave the best productivities.
 
We also observed leaf chloroses on tomato plants after 6 weeks under photoperiods of 20 and 24 hrs and leaf deformations (wrinkles) on pepper plants exposed to continuous lighting.
We also observed that plants under continuous light grew better and flowered earlier during the first 5 to 7 weeks of treatments.
So, tomato and pepper plants can use advantageously continuous supplemental lighting for a short period of time but are negatively affected on a long term basis. Future works should look at varying photoperiods to optimize yields.
 

 
Source: Dominique-André Demers, Martine Dorais, Serge Yelle and André Gosselin from the Centre de recherche en horticulture, Département de phytologie, Université Laval.

 

[webcan]

Sounds a bit like for my tomatoes and peppers that I should probably have them about 16 hours of light. I also have other greens in the same area and is why my temp is at 19C which is at the border of what peppers like grow at.
I wondering about the light as My peppers seems to be growing more foliage than peppers. ( only one jalapeno plant has many peppers on it ) the other Habanero and Carolina Reeper is just Foliage 1 or 2 peppers on the Habanero and none on the Carolina Reeper.