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Non-Circulating plant refuses to set.

Good morning, I seek the knowledge of the group in terms of assiting a pepper plant that I just cant get to set fruit. 
Plant was germinated on July 2020 and grown in Non-Circulating conditions until flowering early december.
There was so little pollen in any of the flowers until I started hitting it with epsom salt with a foliar spay every week.
This is our first time trying this method so if anyone has suggestions on improving fruit set with this growing method let me know!
 
Below are photos:
1. Day temp too high >95F
Check our highs in the house are 78F
2. Night temp too low
Lowes are in the 60s on occasion
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
I am using GHs nutrient schedule at 1/2 and am in the flowering stage, all my other plants are doing well
4. Too much water
I fill the container to half
5. Low light levels (reduces fertility)
12 on 12 off
6. Very low humidity (reduces fertility)
RH is lower at 40-50%
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
We run a fan for 4hrs a day AM/PM
8. Lack of pollinating insects.
Using a paint brush / elec toothbrush
9. Size of pot
I have grown more peppers in a less sized pot.
10. Too much mineral in feedwater.
See #3
11. Too much grower attention/anxiety
This is true but I am not moving it around too much / poking the peppers daily but every 3 days.
 
I have a KSLS right next to it thats 108d old and it has nearly 8 peppers on it. Same feeding solution same growing medium. 
 
Foliage looks well:
zsYjTSs.jpg

 
The 'worst' looking leaf:
vkvlFnS.jpg

 
 
The Plant:
any8rbX.jpg

 
The Roots:
S6na9jh.jpg

 
 
 
Pepper Merchant said:
 
Good morning, I seek the knowledge of the group in terms of assiting a pepper plant that I just cant get to set fruit. 
Plant was germinated on July 2020 and grown in Non-Circulating conditions until flowering early december.
There was so little pollen in any of the flowers until I started hitting it with epsom salt with a foliar spay every week.
This is our first time trying this method so if anyone has suggestions on improving fruit set with this growing method let me know!
 
Below are photos:
1. Day temp too high >95F
Check our highs in the house are 78F
 
2. Night temp too low
Lowes are in the 60s on occasion
 
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
I am using GHs nutrient schedule at 1/2 and am in the flowering stage, all my other plants are doing well
 
4. Too much water
I fill the container to half
 
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
We run a fan for 4hrs a day AM/PM
 
9. Size of pot
I have grown more peppers in a less sized pot.
 
11. Too much grower attention/anxiety
This is true but I am not moving it around too much / poking the peppers daily but every 3 days.
 
 
 
 
So, I don't know if that's a thing they tell you when you use the Kratky method, but there is no "flowering" or "bloom" "stage" for peppers.  They are everbearing, once they reach maturity.  There's literally no need to nutrient cycle.
.
Secondly, I have to ask why you chose the Kratky method.  You may have a very good reason.  I'm just trying to get the whole picture.
.
Questions:
.
1) What kind of pepper plant is this? (variety does matter)
2) Can you make your grow are a little warmer? (or lessen the temp differential, and make it stable)
3) If you're not getting blooms until you hit it with Epsom foliar, could you maybe up the humidity? (cause that's more likely the only thing that is happening)
4) Why only running the fan 4 hours a day? (if I grow indoors it's on 24/7)
.
Maybe it's just me, but I see a huge part of the problem, as that fan only doing part time duty.  Keep it on, keep the humidity at 50-60%, and maybe eliminate those epsom foliar dousings. (there not as useful as advertised, and if they're producing a reaction, then the plant isn't getting what you're giving, at the roots)
 
solid7 said:
 
 
So, I don't know if that's a thing they tell you when you use the Kratky method, but there is no "flowering" or "bloom" "stage" for peppers.  They are everbearing, once they reach maturity.  There's literally no need to nutrient cycle.
.
Secondly, I have to ask why you chose the Kratky method.  You may have a very good reason.  I'm just trying to get the whole picture.
.
Questions:
.
1) What kind of pepper plant is this? (variety does matter)
2) Can you make your grow are a little warmer? (or lessen the temp differential, and make it stable)
3) If you're not getting blooms until you hit it with Epsom foliar, could you maybe up the humidity? (cause that's more likely the only thing that is happening)
4) Why only running the fan 4 hours a day? (if I grow indoors it's on 24/7)
.
Maybe it's just me, but I see a huge part of the problem, as that fan only doing part time duty.  Keep it on, keep the humidity at 50-60%, and maybe eliminate those epsom foliar dousings. (there not as useful as advertised, and if they're producing a reaction, then the plant isn't getting what you're giving, at the roots)
 
Thanks for the reply. This was our first time trying this method in such a large container. I have done netcup+beer can and had a number of plants move from seedling to fruit producing in the house without issue.
 
1) What kind of pepper plant is this? (variety does matter)
Its seeds that were included free with a order and simplt titled 'ghost cross' , we figured it would be a good way to try out this method.
 
2) Can you make your grow are a little warmer? (or lessen the temp differential, and make it stable)
Due to the nature of the space (basement) it does not get much warmer than that on a consistant basis until the weather here stops being -9.5f (-21c). The plant is locted under a vent.
 
3) If you're not getting blooms until you hit it with Epsom foliar, could you maybe up the humidity? (cause that's more likely the only thing that is happening)
Similar to the comment above RH is very low in the house during the winter. I have it right next to the humidifyer that runs 24/7. My only option to increase temp and RH to be stable would be a space heater + tent and I dont know why all the other plants seem ok. (tent is not in the budget)
 
4) Why only running the fan 4 hours a day? (if I grow indoors it's on 24/7)
I run it on and off to reduce electrical costs its a large fan that I use on all my seedlings come spring.
 
Good questions! I may just be at the mercy of the envrioment I live in. I just found it strange while not ideal temps or RH all the other plants produce well indoors in the same growing medium and nutrient mixture. 
 
The Epsom was a ' well nothing else is working might as well try ' kind of thing. I dont normally use it on any of the plants. 
 
I was actually wondering if you were gonna tell me that it was a ghost or ghost-ish.  This seems to be a recurring theme with that particular family.  I was a little pro-active with the suggestion to warm and raise the humidity a bit.  But between that and the fan, it's still my top advice.  The foliage really doesn't look too bad.  But it's little things that make big differences.
 
solid7 said:
I was actually wondering if you were gonna tell me that it was a ghost or ghost-ish.  This seems to be a recurring theme with that particular family.  I was a little pro-active with the suggestion to warm and raise the humidity a bit.  But between that and the fan, it's still my top advice.  The foliage really doesn't look too bad.  But it's little things that make big differences.
 
Perfect I will give these a try, I appreciate the input as its been around for a while now and I am out of ideas. Especially when the others will be starting to ripen in a few weeks.
Glad to have some input for sure, even if it is being a stubborn plant. 
 
For what it's worth, can you make a Visqueen tent? Just a roll of plastic and duct tape makes a cheap grow tent, and works quite well. (where light diffusion isn't a primary concern)
 
solid7 said:
For what it's worth, can you make a Visqueen tent? Just a roll of plastic and duct tape makes a cheap grow tent, and works quite well. (where light diffusion isn't a primary concern
 
Interesting, I could maybe try this the floor is cold in my unfinished basement so I would need to build it off the ground. Currently everything is on a table and even that has the Mrs. in a mood.
Ill get back to you on this.
 
I might suggest to you that you put a piece of carpet - or even a double layer of it - on the floor inside the area.  Helps insulate just a bit. 
 
solid7 said:
I might suggest to you that you put a piece of carpet - or even a double layer of it - on the floor inside the area.  Helps insulate just a bit. 
 
I will take this into consideration. We are under lockdown right now so goods are limited to online ordering. However... I managed to get a larger humidifier on order that arrives this week. No more filling two smaller ones around the house now! ...and it may help the plant out too.
 
Pepper Merchant said:
 
I will take this into consideration. We are under lockdown right now so goods are limited to online ordering. However... I managed to get a larger humidifier on order that arrives this week. No more filling two smaller ones around the house now! ...and it may help the plant out too.
 
I usually steal pieces from the dumpsters behind carpet installers...  might not work everywhere, but just an idea.
 
Calcium and Magnesium  are taken up by the same receptors in  a plant.too much of 1 blocks the other out.
Calcium Acetate is used as blossom  set.
The acetate can bee easily used by the plant.
 
use  foliical  or make your own-
 
witches brew-
 
white vinegar
dolomiite lime
 
mix in an open container and stir until it stops fizzing.
I don't measure lime or vinegar.
put an inch  orr? of lime in a jar(mayo),pour in vinegar.
 
I add a shot to my nutes every so often...
I replace vinegar as I use the brew.
Stir before eack use and when you aadd vinegar.
 
An airstone in your plants buckets wouldn't hurt I think.
Grey veins on leaves?not good I think,
 
As a chemical engineer, I feel compelled to add:
 
PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS!!!
 
Vinegar's an acid, and lime's a base.  The two will react together.  I'm glad it works out OK for smokemaster, but I wouldn't be surprised if this could be screwed up.
 
Just to add, from a chemistry standpoint, I'm confused as to the benefits.
 
For one, if you don't measure your ingredients, you're most likely going to end up with something that's either acidic or basic (alkaline), unless you get lucky and mix just the right amounts.
 
So, I guess the point here is to provide Calcium Acetate (the product of mixing calcium carbonate (lime) and acetic acid (vinegar)).
 
There's got to be an easier way to add Calcium.
 
I'm using Dolomite lime from the nursery and 3% vinegar.
It isn't pure lime...or acid.
Has Mag. in it too.
I don't have the bag handy to see % of whatever is in it.
 
Barely fizzles.
 
As you warn,I wouldn't suggest using stronger acid etc.
 
Store baught stuff-
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193738954481?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=193738954481&targetid=4581115207302808&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=410490119&mkgroupid=1240249342282558&rlsatarget=pla-4581115207302808&abcId=9300491&merchantid=51291&msclkid=3ab54c0c95e319e2a03a2c29836e448a
 
 
Foli Cal
10% cal.acetate solution.
Was $8.99 a pint.
 
foliar- 3oz to 2gal. water
 
For me it seems to make buds set better.
The reason for using the acitate is because it is supposed to get obsorbed by the plants roots or  leaves.
 
I don't think plants use/need much calcium...
 
smokemaster said:
Calcium and Magnesium  are taken up by the same receptors in  a plant.too much of 1 blocks the other out.
Calcium Acetate is used as blossom  set.
The acetate can bee easily used by the plant.
 
use  foliical  or make your own-
 
witches brew-
 
white vinegar
dolomiite lime
 
mix in an open container and stir until it stops fizzing.
I don't measure lime or vinegar.
put an inch  orr? of lime in a jar(mayo),pour in vinegar.
 
I add a shot to my nutes every so often...
I replace vinegar as I use the brew.
Stir before eack use and when you aadd vinegar.
 
An airstone in your plants buckets wouldn't hurt I think.
Grey veins on leaves?not good I think,
 
 
DontPanic said:
As a chemical engineer, I feel compelled to add:
 
PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS!!!
 
Vinegar's an acid, and lime's a base.  The two will react together.  I'm glad it works out OK for smokemaster, but I wouldn't be surprised if this could be screwed up.
 
Just to add, from a chemistry standpoint, I'm confused as to the benefits.
 
For one, if you don't measure your ingredients, you're most likely going to end up with something that's either acidic or basic (alkaline), unless you get lucky and mix just the right amounts.
 
So, I guess the point here is to provide Calcium Acetate (the product of mixing calcium carbonate (lime) and acetic acid (vinegar)).
 
There's got to be an easier way to add Calcium.
 
  Smokemaster's Witches Brew! has been used since I first started growing peppers in the  mid-90's - and I'm sure before!. Like all Home-Brew garden remedies it should be used with caution until the gardener is familiar with it. But if you click on my link and review proven application methods you should be comfortable with its use.
 
DontPanic said:
As a chemical engineer, I feel compelled to add:
 
PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS!!!
 
Vinegar's an acid, and lime's a base.  The two will react together.  I'm glad it works out OK for smokemaster, but I wouldn't be surprised if this could be screwed up.
 
Just to add, from a chemistry standpoint, I'm confused as to the benefits.
 
For one, if you don't measure your ingredients, you're most likely going to end up with something that's either acidic or basic (alkaline), unless you get lucky and mix just the right amounts.
 
So, I guess the point here is to provide Calcium Acetate (the product of mixing calcium carbonate (lime) and acetic acid (vinegar)).
 
There's got to be an easier way to add Calcium.
 
I already add the reccomended lebels of CalMg with my GH feed schedule. I dont think Ill make the cocktail as I dont have the ingredients on hand.
While it sounds interesting I dont have enough self faith I wont kill the plant, while its currently not dying it sure may be if I do it. 
 
Well the plant fell over last night taking with it 3 seedlings sitting on the table.
If roughing it up does not help the plant set the fruit I have moved it to a large 3 gallon grow container. It was in a folgers coffee container since august and was filling it with the roots.
We will see if the larger container with blacked out sides help it along. I also have a bubbler on order we shall see if it gets here before the spring comes Canada Post is so backed up right now. 
 
Ok well today I was doing my weekly pollination session when I noticed boom! We have a fruit set!

Here is what I changed from 08FEB-22FEB.
-Moved from small plastic coffee container to 3gallon DWC
This significantly increased the air in the root zone.

-Mixed all my nutrients at 75% strength (we rarely go over 50%) while reintroduction of the GH grow formula.

-Increased RH and additional 15-25% depending on time of day/temperature.

One thing I have noticed is the pollen has increased as well.
 
One last thing I am hesitant to say 'fixed' but would assume it's more luck. The coming weeks will tell.

The good news is house RH% and average temp starts to go up this week as it slowly slowly warms to -10c
 
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