On Temperature, Humidity and Viable Pollen

[Eephus Man]

Can someone here please remind me with some brief notes on when chili production falls of due to high temps? And how does humidity (high or low) affect this?

I know its around here, but for whatever reason (lack of sleep, not enough coffee likely culprits), I can't find it, and it won't hurt to help some folk out.

My reason for asking is that I'm trying to figure out how many more days I have before I move into survival mode from grow mode. Also, trying to figure out what to isolate for some early seed this year.

TIA smart plants peoples!

 

[theghostpepperstore]

The Willard List

Flower drop probable causes:

1. Day temp too high >95F
2. Night temp too low <65F
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
4. Too much water
5. Low light levels (reduces fertility).
6. Very low humidity (reduces fertility)
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
8. Lack of pollinating insects.
9. Size of pot
10. Too much mineral in feedwater.
11. Too much grower attention/anxiety.

This is for flower drop but it goes hand in hand with viable pollen.

 

[Eephus Man]

The Willard List

Flower drop probable causes:

1. Day temp too high >95F
2. Night temp too low <65F
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
4. Too much water
5. Low light levels (reduces fertility).
6. Very low humidity (reduces fertility)
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
8. Lack of pollinating insects.
9. Size of pot
10. Too much mineral in feedwater.
11. Too much grower attention/anxiety.

This is for flower drop but it goes hand in hand with viable pollen.

Lol at #11.

Thank you, as that helps me with the two variables I'm interested in. Namely temperature and humidity.

Does anyone have any personal experience with this. Specifically whether temperature fluctuations that fall outside of normative for very finite periods (e.g. one day or more specifically, one afternoon) have deleterious effect for any period afterward?

Can I hit 96F one day and be fine, or does it cause irreparable damage to reproductive systems in following, normative conditions?

FWIW, for those that are newer to growing in pots in very warm climates, I am finding this year that the oft repeated CW about overwatering should be taken with a healthy dose of skepticism when applied universally (obiously this is common sense, but hard to break out of once the advice "sticks").

I'm finding that my fear about watering and fertilizing too much in the past made me too conservative with both. I have found that a watering regimen that is more frequent and heavy has helped this year, as well as a *light*, but frequent (every other watering) fertilization regimen have both proven very beneficial to my deck garden.

 

[mygrassisblue]

I see a bunch of variables one that's missing is night time temps remain above 80f. Air flow is the top 2nd or 3rd rule in my mind. But this is my yard for my micro-climate. I would be heavy handed watering because I would see a huge difference minutes after watering for the second time that day. The great thing of containers is the obvious moving to a better local if stress starts. We rely on our garden to help carry us through the summer and fall. Beds and containers. I have tried to shade the peppers under an oak that inevitably drops limbs only on container grown peppers !!