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PIC 1's............Pod-ography.............2013

  Good Eve-ning, and Welcome to my bog...glog !

Hey folks sorry for the late glog-up I'm a month behind last years startup,...... :rolleyes: ...... I still have 12+ weeks (plenty of time) before I can start think about hardening off the plants outdoors.

First off I'd like to give a shout out to those who followed my grow last season. Thanks for all the comments, thoughts and ideas. The chuckles we shared......there were some good laughs...(and especially all the criticisms........ :liar: .......hah)

To those who are new, I try to follow a "weekend update" format with photos and captions. Although if anyone has questions or replies that needs and answer or response I'll get back during the week. I hope to keep this interesting and entertaining...

and away we go!


Garden Rewind


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Here's my 1st garden (1986)...it was modest but what we grew we used in our kitchen. I had a couple of dual bulb 4ft T12 fixtures in my basement. A couple grow-lux and daylight color temp bulbs. The indoor grow was far superior to the vegetable starts sold at the local nurseries.
My Italian neighbor couldn't understand why his bell pepper starts only had flowers while mine had golfball size peppers very early in the season.....The hot varieties I grew back then were the cayennes, orange habaneros, and a few different type or thai-birds. Things have changed but I still grow those varities.

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Here's a shot from last season. I grew around 150+ pepper plants in two different sections of the garden. Plants were grown in raised beds and containers from 5 gal up to 20 gal

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A typical weekend harvest shot from later in the season when the gardens at full swing.

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This is one of my seed catalogs, the c.chinense....the seeds that invade our gardens every year...
This book and other seed catalogs are kept in a tupperware container container on a shelve in the corner of the basement.
No elaborate system needed, The seeds are kept in 1.5" zip backs. I have seeds that are as far back as 2007, and still germinating without a hitch....theres no need to pitch. Speaking of pitching theres some old baseball card to display the size of the pages used.

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These are what I use to get the seeds on their way. I take 1/4 bag of each, mix that into a 5 gal bucket and moisten with water. The spagnum peat give fluff to the texture also helps indicate when the mix need to be re-moistened but the lighter color it displays. The vermiclite helps with water retension while letting the air and moisture through. The seed starting mix also has fine grain perlite to keep drainage and airflow moving.

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Ha..........I knew this chop stick would come in handy someday. Once the seed medium is moistened I'll make a hole with the stick 1/4" down .
The seeds will be planted at the same depth. That helps when misting the top with water. Seeds that are planted too high may dry out or seeds planted to deep may rot.

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I use two 2ft x 4ft germinating mats. Enough area to warm 8 seed flats at once...

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I don't bother with a thermostat for the mats. I run them through a timer, 2 hrs on, 1 hr off...continous. The average temp of the soil stays at +/-85 deg

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This is the main grow room. I built the 2 tier shelving units 8ft long x 2ft wide. 8 flats fit underneath the lighting units. Here we have four narrow spaced T8 4 bulb fixtures with 6500k bulbs and one 8ft TF twin bulb tight spaced fixture with 4100k bulbs. I have 4 identical systems in the room with an addition of three 400w mh fixtures with 7200k lamps. The room has 2- 20a dedicated circuits and 1-15a to split the current draw..

more photos in a few minutes....thanks for looking!
PIC 1's......Pod Pornage.............2012

















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Would love to try some seed for those Greg, thanks.

You said something about planting your tomatoes sideways or something, can you expand on that a bit? Are you leaving any of the seedling above ground or letting it grow it's way back up?

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Bill,
Here's a shot of tomato plants hardening off last April

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A closer look shows how tall these are. I think there were 200 plants, some 1.5ft tall. The ones I kept were trimmed of all their lower leaves except the top 2 sets. I dug a long trench or furrow about 1 ft deep. The tomato plants were layed horizontally spaced 3 ft apart. The top of the plants were bent above soil level and supported once the soil was back filled in. (supported by a rock or large pebble).

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Here's a shot of one of the beds. The plants are well over 6ft tall

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Big plants can produce well......Hawaiian Pineapple Tomato
 
Very nice!

I bury tomatoes as well but just 5" to 6"s deep and straight down as I'm striving for deep roots in this heat. I'm curious as to how much of the plant you're actually burying, and how old are the plants at "dirt time"?

Thanks,

Scott
 
Thanks for once again feeding my inferiority complex...

I haven't been able to crack the code on tomatoes out here just yet. In TX I had them dialed in, but out here I have had nothing but trouble. Had some huge plants last year but they got sick along with the peppers. Thinking maybe the wild nightshade weeds may be the culprit??? Maybe we can con you into a few tomato shots this season!!!
 
Very nice!

I bury tomatoes as well but just 5" to 6"s deep and straight down as I'm striving for deep roots in this heat. I'm curious as to how much of the plant you're actually burying, and how old are the plants at "dirt time"?

Thanks,

Scott

Hey Scott,
The Tomatoes get potted up outdoors to 1 gal containers,. They'll get two weeks to harden off before planting in the ground or in containers. When I trench I take in account for the size of the container +2". I think a 1 gal pot ois 8" at the widest (top). The trench will get dug 10", enough soil to cover the rootball. The stem will rest 5" below the surface and as you know will grow its own roots. I don't like to dig to deep. If the roots sit in saturation for a few days of heavy rains the chances of BER can set in and the obvious "cracking/splitting" on the tomato will be unavoidable without proper drainage. My container plants get set down only a few inches, depending how tall they are....

Here's a photo of some of my "San Marzano's" in 18 gal utility tubs

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Thanks for once again feeding my inferiority complex...

I haven't been able to crack the code on tomatoes out here just yet. In TX I had them dialed in, but out here I have had nothing but trouble. Had some huge plants last year but they got sick along with the peppers. Thinking maybe the wild nightshade weeds may be the culprit??? Maybe we can con you into a few tomato shots this season!!!

Sure.......as long as some folks don't mind a shot or two............along with the food photos.......... :D

Nice pics of the 'maters... How many varieties are you growing this year?

Thanks Rick,
Believe it or not theres a box of seeds in front of me. I may only have 20 plants this year for myself, but my sister will share the brunt of the plants in her garden plot. I'll split the varieties from the "currant" size up to some 1 lb+ heirlooms. I normally sow around 30 varieties, Most for the few plant sales that I'm involved in. All in all around 200- 1 gal plants get potted up. I'm a bit behind on the mater start, but I know under the flouros how fast they grow. With the 14 deg temp outdoors and zero with the wind chill I can't get too enthused, yet but I have to get a flat done after dinner......I can smell it burning.........just kidding. Thanks for checking this out. I know you grow a vast variety of edibles yourself. Good luck with all the crop!
 
Hey they look great, I'm impressed with what you do that far up North. I can see why you have them at the size you do before they hit the dirt.

In my neck of the woods we're not getting much rain, or maybe any rain at all, and the soil drains extremely well so I want them deep.

I haven't been able to crack the code on tomatoes out here just yet. In TX I had them dialed in, but out here I have had nothing but trouble. Had some huge plants last year but they got sick along with the peppers. Thinking maybe the wild nightshade weeds may be the culprit??? Maybe we can con you into a few tomato shots this season!!!

Shane are they staying wet? Last year I crowded em trying to get milage and it backfired.

Scott
 
That's really great info Greg, thanks. last year I started 2 varities, the Balck Krims and some Burpie Bigboy's that I was given. The Black Krims were smashed during the 1st storm and the Bigboys grew and grew all summer but didn't produce anything till fall. I think I picked a bad place to put them. This year I'm going to put them into some 3 gallon root pouches and have them in more direct sunlight. If need be I may order a few 5 gallon ones to plant up to also. Using a combo of Black Cow and Organic Garden Soil with about 10% Coffee Grounds and about a half cup of Ground up egg shells in there.
 
That's really great info Greg, thanks. last year I started 2 varities, the Balck Krims and some Burpie Bigboy's that I was given. The Black Krims were smashed during the 1st storm and the Bigboys grew and grew all summer but didn't produce anything till fall. I think I picked a bad place to put them. This year I'm going to put them into some 3 gallon root pouches and have them in more direct sunlight. If need be I may order a few 5 gallon ones to plant up to also. Using a combo of Black Cow and Organic Garden Soil with about 10% Coffee Grounds and about a half cup of Ground up egg shells in there.
Sounds good Bill,
The Krims are tasty and with all non Red tomatoes, its very striking on the plant. The BigBoys can take some time to mature...although your season is long, we don't get the bumper crop of the BIG anything up North.

I've grown the "Boy's and the Girl's"...from either Burpee or Park. My favorite of the larger meaty maters are the "Supersteaks" from...opps, excuse me, I "Burp-eed"......ha

Not heirlooms but they're very disease resistant. Perfect for the sandwich slice, nice and round with no core like the lobed "Beefsteaks"

I use a 10-10-10 grandular for the tomatoes. Some folks pour on the Nitrogen, they end up with lush green plants with no flowers, nor fruit. I'll give the plants a second dose along with a topping of compost when the fruit is on its way. The extra nutes will give the plant an additional boast to produce another wave of flowers...........Green Tomatoes...anyone ?
 
Scott...not too wet, this is only my second season growing at this house. I'll crack the code, but it may take some time. Pretty sure it's going to take me a few years to rid the place of the wild nightshade and let the soil rest. I get tons of the stuff...and it is a carrier for diseases that hit peppers and tomatoes...and even potatoes. I will let the soil rest this season and give it a whirl in a couple spots I keep weed free this year next season.

Sorry for the hijack Greg...and talking about tomatoes no less. Next thing you know I'll be talking about food! Haha...your tomato archive photos are really impressive. I will be hitting you up for tons of info this year...starting now. How much root space do the spoons need?
 
Scott...not too wet, this is only my second season growing at this house. I'll crack the code, but it may take some time. Pretty sure it's going to take me a few years to rid the place of the wild nightshade and let the soil rest. I get tons of the stuff...and it is a carrier for diseases that hit peppers and tomatoes...and even potatoes. I will let the soil rest this season and give it a whirl in a couple spots I keep weed free this year next season.

Sorry for the hijack Greg...and talking about tomatoes no less. Next thing you know I'll be talking about food! Haha...your tomato archive photos are really impressive. I will be hitting you up for tons of info this year...starting now. How much root space do the spoons need?
Shane,
It's never a hijack, you can bomb in here anytime...oops,.are we taking planes or plants ?
Har Har....

The Currant, Spoon and Pea size tomatoes all whisp and sprawl. My garden space is limited. You've heard of the sq ft garden planning, I go by the sq inch planting....lol

Last season I planted one Spoon plant with 2 Currant varieties in a trianglar pattern 18" apart with onw stake in the middle and adjecent stakes nearby for other plants. I tied the inner branching to the center stake and let most of the outer sprawl with some minor trimming.

The Spoon's are Indeterminate (vine) and will produce all season. I'd trim off the new suckers after you have 2 main branches. The pruning will insure a managable plant as these can get as wild as "College Kids on Spring Break"........lol

Good luck and don't mine firing away with any questions.
 
Good luck and don't mine firing away with any questions.

I hope this was directed at everyone :P

I always have BER on the first tomatoes to set, I've read it's a Calcium issue, but why one just the first ones?

I've added Calmag to their nutrition this year hoping it will help.

Thanks,

Scott
 
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