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H

hnakhi

hi.
i ordered my seeds and they are soon to arrive

i thought that all i need was a soil , water and a hot place

but then i went to the "Grow tech" section and i saw all of the complicated things

Please tell me everything STEP BY STEP.

oh and i am practicing on normal peppers

it's been 2 days and nothing sprouted ( i know it takes time but i want you to see my setup)

this is my setup :
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is it okay for growing bhut jolokia ?
 
I posted this on my local business facebook page...

I have had a lot of people recently ask how do you start seeds...usually the answer is stickem' in the warm soil and letem go...for some varieties, this works well but then again, there are some chinense varieties I have to "baby"....annuums in my experience are not hard to start at all except maybe the wild tepins...makes no difference because I treat them all the same.

I do the following...

First and foremost is to sanitize/sterilize/insecticidize ( ;) ) the area you are going to start seeds in...in my case that would be my germinator...it is a temperature contolled structure that has two 2' X 2' X 4' chambers, one on top of the other that has two shop light fixtures in each chamber and two 150 watt incandescent bulbs for heat...the 150W bulbs control the temperature by being connected to a remote bulb thermostat that can be set to +/- 3F...I keep it set at 83F...Percent germination starts to drop when you go above 86F and is dang near zero when you get above 92 or 93F for any extended period of time...each chamber will hold four 72 cell starter trays...

What type soil goes in the starter trays...

I only use Hoffmans Seed Starting Mix (no, I m not affiliated with this company). The reason I use this is it is the cleanest/lightest weight seed starting mix I have found. I have tried Light Warrior but the perlite in it is too big and comes to the surface of the medium when you shake it....I have also used Jiffy Seed Starting Mix but the twigs and branches in it make it unsuitable for root growth, much less the poor cotyledons trying to come up through the soil...Hoffmans is hard to totally wet initially and a lot of people don't like to wait...patience is a virtue when growing hot peppers...be patient and "presoak" your trays after they are filled...that makes planting the seeds easier too...

Planting the seeds...

I use a pair of tweezers to grasp the seed and push them about 3/8" deep then gently cover them back up with very little pressure...you want the seed completely inundated in the moist soil for a quicker germination rate...(one seed per cell)

Now comes the waiting...

Once you see "hooks" emerging, pour the light to them...put your light source as close as you can...the lights should be close to top of the plants...good test is if you can feel warmth on your fingertips at plant heigth...~1200 lumens/ft2 works fine for me for about 10 days then they go to a grow area with 3000 lumens/ft2

I planted 576 seeds on 31 January 2010 for the 2011 season....144 Bhut Jolokia, 144 Trinidad Scorpion, 144 7 Pot/Pod, 72 Fatalii, and 72 Foodarama Scotch Bonnets...

Today, 14 January 2011, I have 379 little seedlings, most putting their first true set of leaves on...my overall percentage is only ~66 percent (85% for the Bhuts, 50% for the Scorpions, 60% for the 7 Pot, 67% for the Fatalii, and 60% for the Foodaramas) because I didn't stabalize the temperature in the germinator before using it. The temperature inside the germinator hit 100F once and has been in the mid 90s several times, essentially cooking the seeds......more will sprout over the next week or so but when the roots start coming out of the bottom of the cell starter trays, the seedlings will be transplanted to 3" square containers...whatever seeds have not sprouted get recycled...

What I have found to be the most important things for starting seedlings are:

Number 1: CLEANLINESS - Self explanatory.

Number 2: Temperature - Control your temperature as close to 84-86F (30C) as is possible

Number 3: Seed Starting Media - use a light "fluffy" mix that does not compact or crust

Number 4: Moisture - Keep the seed starting media moist but not wet...and only bottom water the seedlings to prevent "splash" on the seedlings - splash can spread soil borne disease that otherwise could not penetrate the plant.

Number 5: Planting Depth - I use 3/8" as a guideling...some of mine are planted a little over or under. the reason you do not want to plant the seedlings any shallower is two fold. First the deeper the soil you plant in, the better moisture retention it will have and two, the depth of the soil allows for "friction" between the soil and seed husk when the seedling is emerging thus pulling the seed husk off.

Number 6: Patience: There are many many varieties of hot peppers out there. 5 domesticated species and a lot of wild species. I can only speak for the domesticated species and each variety within each species can (and usually does) have different germination times.
 
For germination you don't need light, just heat. Once the seeds sprout then they will need light and less heat.
Don't let things get complicated, growing peppers is very easy without all the crazy growtech equipment.
If you do some searching you'll find tonnes of info here on seed starting and general growing
 
+1 on using the search button...
 
hnakhi said:
i did but it says nothing found idk why
Click to expand...

Learning to grow peppers is just like growing peppers...patience...and you just have to learn what your search strings shold be...

If you search for "seed starting" or "seed germination" or something like that, you can fill your day with reading...
 
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