Problem with my Plants - Any Ideas??

I've been having some major issues this season with some of my pepper plants. They have been stunted and some have very odd, bad looking new growth on the top of the plants.  I've heard a few opinions from some people, but hoping to get a broader perspective.  That would you guess based on what you see here? 
 
Chris
 






 
Chris,
They're a pain to get rid of, there are products that will kill the adults, but its the eggs that need to be treated. Miticides tend to work...there are other products that will deform the newly hatched mites, depriving them of normal growth, eventually killing them off. One of my Fatalii's took an early beating, I can't remember off hand the name of the products, but when I get home from work I'll check the label and shoot a photo of what the plant looks like now. It has old damaged growth but all the incoming looks fine. I'll post something here tonight. Heck, with the temps we're having today the plant probably looks dead in the sun....lol. I'll move it to the shade and shoot a shot and post tonight.
 

 
Here's a Fatalii plant in a 10 gal container. This plant had an issue with Broad Mites early on. New growth twisted, older growth curled down while getting brittle and underside bronzing...........sound familar ?
Predator Mites will do the job especially indoors, where mutiple connecting greenhouses and a variety of susceptible plants are grown. Beneficial insects will do the trick. I've used Beneficial Nematodes indoors  for Mealy Bug larvae.
Some folks have mentioned that Broad Mites are more privalent with the c.chinense,  I'm not sure if that's totally true as most folks here grow more of that species then the others.
What I used to control the situation was a combo of products. First off I quaranteed the plant from the others. Easy to do since I can relocate the container, but as with the inground plants the adjacent (container/inground) plants will get treated also. First day I diluted Azamax as specified with water into a 1 gal pump sprayer. The entire plant(s) from top to bottom needs to get treated. The wand from the sprayer makes that possible without damaging the leaves or cracking the stems. Indoors for foliar feeding I'll use a qt misting bottle,  I can control the spray by feathering the mist. No way to spray the underside of the leaves properly with the qt misting outdoors as it doesn't work well when turned upside down.......lol The Azamax was sprayed at dusk and I covered the plant loosely with a ex-large trash bag. I also sprayed the perimeter plants with the same mix, leaving them uncovered. Early the next morning I removed the bag and hosed the residue off the plant with clean water. The same evening I mixed up Avid miticide with water. Sprayed the plants, covering the Fatalii once again with a clean trash bag.. Once again the next morning I rinsed the residue off with water.
 
Results.........
 
 

 
After 2 weeks the new growth is coming in normal, flowers are not dropping off, the petiole is growing longer and narrow (whereas Broad mite damage causes a shorter petiole with a wider connection to the calyx), and finally pollen is available and fruits are forming.
I'm not saying what I've used will work for others...variables of climate and the condition of the plants can be questionable.
Broad Mite infestation doesn't spread like wild fire but if usind chemicals under the wrong conditions can set your new growth a blaze.....
For those who've battled the mites....hands down, post your solutions....
 
Greg
 
We have in our summer climate here (humid and warm/hot ) real issues with broadmite. They are its favourite conditions to thrive. But the great thing is its also some of the best conditions for predator mites to thrive. If it is a wide spread problem a study I read last season said the most effective solution was sulphur spray (least effective neem products). People I know and myself have had great success with sulphur and predator mites (usually sulphur followed 2 weeks later by predator mite release)
I will try to find the study I found last season and post a link
 
Only things I ever use in my garden is a mix of sulphur and pyrethrin. They are both organic. I only use them if things get too out of hnd for predators to control. I always rely on other bugs as the first response though. They know this game much better than I do. Predator mites are the way to go for sure.
 
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