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Reopening my GH

It's getting close to that time of the year, time to prepare for sowing seeds. I haven't used my GH since last spring, rarely even went inside it. I learned that we do not have enough sun from mid-December to mid-February to grow plants and cannot afford to heat and illuminate it. But about a week ago I started a bunch of Super Sugar Snap peas as well as chard and spinach, just to see how they will grow in a 200-cell tray (so far, very good). As I hate to just add the plants to a compost pile, I figured I might as well plant some of them in the GH, in a space I won't need until April.

The first thing I noticed was the inner layer of GH plastic was obstructing a lot of sun. I live less than 1/4 from a major interstate plus a 4-lane, limited access highway. Trains run on both sides of our street so there is plenty of pollution. Somehow, it managed to make its way into the GH, between the two layers of plastic. So, I removed it.

There was a small hole in the top, I patched that and covered a couple of places that I had opened up this spring to allow some heat to escape. My door blew off last spring (we had wind gusts of 50+ mph for several hours the day before Mother's Day last year). I had planned to replace it with a screen door that I can cover with plastic until the temps warm but didn't have all the materials so didn't get a round tuit today. Instead, I covered the doorway with an old blanket.

But I did have lots of 7-gallon containers filled with a mix of dirt, compost and horse manure that have been sitting in the garden all winter. Of course, they were soaked and frozen and weighed like lead. I had dug a trench in the ground before I grew tomatoes last year, it kept the containers from drying out - I had to water only about once every two weeks. So I carried the containers, about 20 of them, into the GH and dumped the contents into the trench. Once it thaws, I'll spread everything out.

It was 31 degrees outside and 38 inside before I patched the holes and covered the door. Thirty minutes later, it was still 31 outside, but 74 inside. And that was at a foot off the ground.

I figure I'll have room for about 80 peas, all 10 of my chard plants and a few of the spinach. My light meter measured about 25,000 lux. If I remove the plastic from the front, I should get another 5,000 or so, more than enough for these plants.

Our normal temps are 40/23 but will rise to 45/30 by the end of the month. These plants should survive the normal lows (no frost inside) but if abnormally cold weather is predicted I have both a 450-watt electrical heater and a 30,000 BTU kerosene one I can use.

On another note, got some 128-cell nursery trays. Need to sow some tomatoes so I can see how they will grow in these things.

Mike
 
I wish I could afford to replace the plastic roof with twin wall polycarb. It would have 10 percent more light transmission and far more heat retention, especially if I line the insides with bubble wrap. Who knows, maybe this winter I'll be able to partition it off and try a hydro tomato grow. I figure running 1600 watts of MH lights from about 4 pm to 8 am during the sun drought period would keep the temps up to 50 degrees most nights.

In 2009, the toms were doing great until early December. I was on track to have bushels of fruit to pass out as Christmas presents and that was from just 38 plants. If I go hydro, in the 64 sq. ft. of space, I can probably get about 30 plants. That would be about 50 pounds of maters a week - more than enough to pay for heating and lighting costs. People around here would gladly pay $2/lb. for a real tomato in the dead of winter, especially if I deliver them.

Mike
 
Our high today was about 38 - my GH temps reached 97.8! That ought to melt the soil mix I added yesterday though it will refeeze tonight. That's good, it will help to break it down. I may need to wait two weeks to transplant my peas, chard, broccoli and spinach - two days toward the end of next week low temps are supposed to be in single digits.

Mike
 
Josh,

It's second on my list, just after replacing the plastic roof with polycarb. As it is, I would have a hard time installing one of those and making it water-tight. I wish I would have had one of them last spring, when the weather people missed the forecast by 100 miles. Instead of being mostly cloudy with highs in the upper 40s, it was very sunny with a high of 60. The 125 degree temps fried leaves and baby toms, and didn't help anything else. That vent would have prevented it.

I really think that if I can find a way to replace the roof with the polycarb (twin wall) I could do a hydro mater grow in the back with about 28 plants. Use the middle and grow another 24. That would provide maybe 100 pounds per week I could sell at a premium price at Farmers Markets in May and early June.

I need something that is automatic. I could have opened the door that day, but it was 42 degrees when I left. Had I had that vent, I would not have lost over 100 baby toms plus eight plants.

Mike
 
Why do they need to be waterproof? Maybe do something like below. (It is obviously in no way drawn to scale. The drawing on the left is a side view and the one on the right is supposed to be a front view.) Put two "doors" in the top of the side walls across from each other. Make the opening smaller than the actual "door." When they are open the rain should drip down and off.

vents.jpg


You could also add an overhang when you replace the roof with polycarb. The diagram below is horrible but the green is supposed to be that front wall with the windows and the rest is the roof frame.

overhang.jpg
 
Josh,

Not sure where the waterproof part came from - I have not painted the side walls which are wood. But I had not thought about using a side "window." I could easily cut a hole in the back (north) wall at the very top. The vents are suppose to open things weighing up to 15 pounds which means I could build a decent size one. Add a small vent at the bottom of the GH and I could move a lot of hot air if I need to.

Mike
 
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