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Things I'm considering for next year

This has been an experimental year and I really thank those of you who have passed on your knowledge and experience. I've tried a lot of different things, especially when it comes to sprouting seeds and getting them to survive large enough to successfully transplant. Made several mistakes, like moving larger plants to 2-liter pop bottles because they were free! The plants did great, but getting them out of the bottles was a real PITA.

First is the containers. I tried everything from egg cartons to plastic pots such as plants come in at a nursery, to nine-inch plastic cups, a Styrofoam tray tobacco seeds come in and those kits one can pick up. I had every result imaginable. Next year, it will be the 2"x1"x2" plastic containers that come in six packs.

Growing medium - I still have to find the right type - if it is too course, the seeds don't seem to survive. Too loose and there isn't enough substance. Like AJ, I plan on selling plants next year, though mine will be mostly toms, eggs and cukes, with a few of the more well-known peppers. I need to get germination rates of near 100 percent. The plants I got from a nursery - both flowers and toms, seem to be in some very dark type of potting soil with little white balls and small, thin slivers of wood or something similar. If anyone knows what this is, let me know.

Watering - Definitely from the bottom, using rain water whenever possible.

Lighting - There is nothing like sunlight so once the weather gets warm enough for them to go outside, even if they have only two leaves, out they go. I can bring them in if the temps are going to get dangerously low but I know - and remember - that seeds normally are sown outside and they survive. It would be easy to build a box that would hold my plants and cover it with cheesecloth, just in case a frost is forecast. They would only come inside in case of freezing temps. An advantage is that there would not be a hardening off period. If they are not getting enough water, I have a 1.5 gallon sprayer I can fill with rain water from a barrel. Applied with the cheesecloth covering them, I won't have to worry about too much water hitting the roots.

Of course, I won't be able to set any plants outside early April, at best. If I'm going to be able to sell plants, I need to have them be at least 10 inches tall, preferably a foot or more, with several shoots and leaves. I figure I will sow them about the second-third week of February. Given germination rates, they should all be up by the first of March. During the first month of their life, they will be under intense LED lights, hopefully mostly blue ones. The plants won't grow tall very quickly, but will have a lot of foliage. People love a bushy looking plant, especially if it is a foot tall. My experiments this year show the mostly blue lights do this. If I can get a 4" tall plant with eight sets of leaves by early April, I should have some very strong plants to sell. I will have some shop lights I can hang in the basement - they do not put out enough light, even if placed just above a plant. The 23 watt CFL lights are great - they really outshine the fluoros (bad pun) but cannot hold a foot candle to the LEDs (worse pun). Not to mention, over the course of ten years - the expected life of the LEDs, I'll save $500 in costs, even after paying for the lights.

Insect control - Thankfully, toms, eggs and cukes are not as susceptible to aphids and such as peppers seem to be. But, there is co-planting, growing plants that ward off aphids, such as garlic, chives and other alliums as well as coriander. I figure I can plant some of these seeds and not only sell the plants but keep aphids at bay!

Sorry about the long post - food for thought maybe?
 
Hi Wordwiz
I found your post really informative and helpful, I am in my 'experimental' 1st year and it was interesting to note your observations. I made so many mistakes this year that I hopefully won't repeat next year (such as buying up the thrift store's supply of thin plastic buckets thinking they would make cheap containers whereas the plants hated the plastic which got too hot and many died)
I found the habs slow and difficult to grow, another mistake I made I think was not understanding and doing my homework on the varieites, I bought seeds that sounded or the plants looked good such as Bulgarian Carrot, Chinese Five Colour and lemon Drop and I personally have found that these struggle in the hot weather compared to others. Discovering this site has been my best move! and the people on it are fantastic and helpful
 
The white balls you see in the nursery plants soil is either vermiculite or perlite. Both of which are a type of rock baked at very high temps to make them "pop" like corn and become perforated and light.. meaning they retain water very well.

The wood slivers? No clue, maybe a compost mix?

For seed starting I might try a mix of sand, vermiculite and compost next year myself.
 
lost,

I'm looking for whatever potting soil I can walk into a garden store and buy that will do the best. This year, I bought this HUGE bag of stuff - 40 pounds of dried potting soil for $10. Good stuff, except some of those wood slivers were a bit large. But I can screen them out.

It's a waste of money in one way, but for plants I want to sell, I'm thinking about sowing two seeds per space. If they both pop up, nip one of them. But face it, I don't know of any seeds from any source that provide 100 percent germination.

Mike
 
I'd think seeds would be the lowest cost?

I know up here I can buy a 4' tall big bag of vermiculite for $20... sand costs me under a buck a bucket - both at the landscape center here. Compost varies big time of course... maybe try the vermicompost?

One the prebagged stuff, nearly all of them had vermiculite in it already?
 
wordwiz said:
Growing medium - I still have to find the right type - if it is too course, the seeds don't seem to survive. Too loose and there isn't enough substance. Like AJ, I plan on selling plants next year, though mine will be mostly toms, eggs and cukes, with a few of the more well-known peppers. I need to get germination rates of near 100 percent. The plants I got from a nursery - both flowers and toms, seem to be in some very dark type of potting soil with little white balls and small, thin slivers of wood or something similar. If anyone knows what this is, let me know.

The growing medium I started with this year for my major plantout was that 60/40 (compost/cushion sand) that I got for 17.50 a yd (I picked it up). I was excited about finding such a good quality soil at first. The problem I had with it was that after it sat for a while, it became compacted, especially with me moving the plants all the time. For my second plantout, I used this 60/40 soil and a commercial grade locally made potting soil. Used it in about a 50/50 mix. The results are very very noticeable to me. I will take some pics later today and post a couple for comparisons sake. The mix of growing medium and the 60/40 soil has two definite different properties. The mix holds water/moisture much better than the straight 60/40 and it is not as heavy and doesn't compact too bad. I am convinced that the compaction of the soil prohibited good root growth, thus making the plants grow slower. Some of the plants I have in this medium are as big or bigger than their brothers that are a month older.

growingmediumtz6.jpg



wordwiz said:
Lighting - An advantage is that there would not be a hardening off period.

Mike...for me this year, I think the moving in and out, in and out, in and out, hurt the plants because they could never get acclimated to either environment. I definitely learned the hard way to harden off the plants gradually. Next year, I will take a full month to harden off the seedlings before planting. The plants you sell will definitely have to be hardened because if they are not and the customers take them home and plant them outside, they are going to lose some don't you think?

wordwiz said:
at least 10 inches tall, preferably a foot or more, with several shoots and leaves.

From planting seeds to a 10" plant will vary greatly depending on the varieties...right?...that could be a good thing because you could stagger your seed planting dates directly related to the known growth rates of the different varieties...sorry, just thinking out loud here...I know that the annuums I planted grew a lot quicker than the chinense did with standard care...

wordwiz said:
Insect control - Thankfully, toms, eggs and cukes are not as susceptible to aphids and such as peppers seem to be.

I really hope this "aphid chaser" works. I know I can definitely use them in my 4X4 grow box and in my germinator, but I think it will take too many of them (plus the scheduled replacement period of the "chasers") for me to use in my major seedling area. I am planning on using a mild mixture of epsom salt and safer soap as a deterrent this coming year on my seedlings...they should be very green and healthy. As far as I can tell, safer soap doesn't do anything to the plants as long as you don't let it build up and clog the stomata up.
 
I found Pro-MIx at the local AGWAY and it wasnt expensive at all and a huge bale for 8$ if I remember correctly and a bag of manure and humus mix was like 4-5$ I mixed the two and put some in the soil before I planted out.
 
Planting isn't a concern. I'll only have maybe 50 containers and I'll have a lot of soil from this year plus a huge amount of compost. And I don
t mind buying some peat and potting soil to mix with it - the entire mix will end up in the dead part of the yard in a couple of years so I can get away from containers.

What I need to find is seed starting mix. One that is loose enough to allow get root formation yet not so fine as to hold water for too long.

AJ,

The Aphid Chaser does work and works great. If you decide to order some for next year, e-mail the guy and ask about bigger orders - he said he would cut the price.

I may build a cold box for the plants so that all I need to do is drop a glass lid over them if only a frost is predicted. I probably wouldn't move them outside until the middle of April when the sun is weak and the days are not near as long. That would give them a full month of getting use to the great outdoors. The first couple of day, if it real bright and warmer than normal, leave them in direct sunlight for just a few hours but after a week, they should be ready. Tomatoes are far more hardly than peppers from what I've seen, but then I haven't tried planting pepper seeds outside!

Mike
 
for seed starting Mike, I used Hoffmans Seed Starting Mix...worked really well for me...is very light and allows for good root growth plus good germination rates...
 
AJ,

I tried to find out where to buy the Hoffman but Google came up empty. One link listed a phone number but it does not work.

I shelled out over $200 for seeds (I still have a bunch of each type left!) and will have at least that invested in lights. I think I was penny wise and pound foolish last year, opting for mediocre potting soil which led to poor germination rates, slow growth, poor root formation (at least in early weeks).

Thanks to a lesson in hydroponics, I also have come to believe that I need to use a different fertilizer in the water when I'm trying to raise the seedlings. I'm using a 14-6-17 solution in one system and a 30-10-10 in the other two. The latter ones are killing the first one - the plants are already bigger than the ones "planted" three weeks earlier. I'll probably go with a 5-15-5 type until the plants get at least six sets of leaves, then switch to the 30-10-10, though I may use something like a 10-10-10 solution for a couple of weeks.

Alas, I've seen shoppers - if they only want one or two toms, they are willing to pay $5 for a plant that is a foot tall but in a six-inch pot while those who want several will bulk at paying $3 each for ones in a 1x2x2 six-pack. But if one was to count the number of roots and their total length, there probably would not be any noticeable difference - just a lot more potting soil. I may have to realistically look at using six inch containers, at least for 1/3 of the plants. I wouldn't have to move them to the larger pots until probably the third week of April and by then, they can pretty much spend their entire day outside. Two weeks outside for 24 hours a day ought to get them ennured to spending time in the garden.

Of course, my plans are fluid and subject to change on which way the wind is blowing!

Mike
 
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