• If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.

nutrients What are the go to nutes in Hydroponics for peppers, lettuce and the likes.

Sarge

Sarge

Hey all,

I started a dwc the other day, I was contemplating doing so since it is summer here now. Wasn't a bad decision so far, 36C today, water temp is 22.4C. Anyway I ended up going with GH FloraBloom and GH FloraMicro. I ditched the FloraGro since that's what most people here did.
 
Are there other options? Will these nutes(coupled with calmag) be all my plants need from seed to fruition? I am down in Australia so everything here is a little more expensive than in the US. Ontop of that not everything is available here.
 
Ive read dozens of pages, watched dozens of videos. Some people use what I am using and also use the GH MaxiBloom with just a little scoop added to the water when the plant is flowering. Some use the 3 all together. Some use other brands. Ive read things like Advanced Nutrients are better since they will not affect the PH of the water but the water here is about 7 and from what I know, nutes usually bring them down a little which has so far put me smack on 6.
 
There's alot being asked here and its probably not in a logical, coherent order but if anyone has any input as to products worth trying, simple recipes to use that will get you from seed to fruit etc.
 
Also I am keen to grow some lettuce in another bucket I am setting up. Does anyone with XP in growing lettuce have any input on which nutes to use?
 
Any info you can throw at me, send it this way.
 
I am currently using GH Grow + Botanicare Hydroplex and cal mag.  That is it... probably not an ideal mix but it's what I happened to have lol  
 
Sarge said:
Are there other options? Will these nutes(coupled with calmag) be all my plants need from seed to fruition? I am down in Australia so everything here is a little more expensive than in the US. Ontop of that not everything is available here.
Click to expand...
On the Australian angle would you consider testing out something like Manutec Orchid Bloom Booster plus something to provide Iron and Calcium and Iron (maybe Botanicare CalMag Plus). Their Orchid Bloom Booster appears to be more readily dissolved than their products marketed towards Tomato growers.

I only noticed the lack of Iron after putting together a side by side table of it and the Bloom Booster that you mentioned previously:
Code: 
%W/W OBB %W/W BB  Analysis
0        6.19     Nitrogen (N) as Ammonium
5.8      0        Nitrogen (N) as Nitrate
10.0     0        Nitrogen (N) as Urea
15.8     6.19     TOTAL NITROGEN (N)
6.7      14.64    Phosphorus (P) as Water Soluble
6.7      14.64    TOTAL PHOSPHORUS (P)
17.0     0        Potassium (K) as Nitrate
8.3      0        Potassium (K) as Phosphate
0        16.80    Potassium (K) as Sulphate
25.3     16.80    TOTAL POTASSIUM (K)
2.80     7.36     Sulphur (S) as Sulphates
0.06     0.06     Magnesium (Mg) as Sulphate
0.24     0.24     Manganese (Mn) as Sulphate
0.03     0.03     Zinc (Zn) as Sulphate
0.02     0.02     Copper (Cu) as Sulphate
0.02     0.02     Boron (B) as Sodium Borate
0.0014   0        Molybdenum (Mo) as Molybdate
0        0.0014   Molybdenum (Mo) as Sodium Molybdate
0.4      0        Maximum Biuret

Key
OBB: Manutec Orchid Bloom Booster
BB:  Manutec Bloom Booster
The Manutec Tomato Magic fertiliser that I predominantly use here on soil and container plants is labelled as suitable for hydroponics. The Calcium though has a tendency of precipitating out of solution in my plant saucers here.
 
Everyone develops their favorites. There are a lot of brands out there and most will work fine.
 
Here is what I currently use: Equal parts of each.
L4_img_floraduo.png

 
Even though it has calcium in it, I add some cal-mag in once the plants start blooming.
 
harry said:
On the Australian angle would you consider testing out something like Manutec Orchid Bloom Booster plus something to provide Iron and Calcium and Iron (maybe Botanicare CalMag Plus). Their Orchid Bloom Booster appears to be more readily dissolved than their products marketed towards Tomato growers.

I only noticed the lack of Iron after putting together a side by side table of it and the Bloom Booster that you mentioned previously:

%W/W OBB %W/W BB Analysis
0 6.19 Nitrogen (N) as Ammonium
5.8 0 Nitrogen (N) as Nitrate
10.0 0 Nitrogen (N) as Urea
15.8 6.19 TOTAL NITROGEN (N)
6.7 14.64 Phosphorus (P) as Water Soluble
6.7 14.64 TOTAL PHOSPHORUS (P)
17.0 0 Potassium (K) as Nitrate
8.3 0 Potassium (K) as Phosphate
0 16.80 Potassium (K) as Sulphate
25.3 16.80 TOTAL POTASSIUM (K)
2.80 7.36 Sulphur (S) as Sulphates
0.06 0.06 Magnesium (Mg) as Sulphate
0.24 0.24 Manganese (Mn) as Sulphate
0.03 0.03 Zinc (Zn) as Sulphate
0.02 0.02 Copper (Cu) as Sulphate
0.02 0.02 Boron (B) as Sodium Borate
0.0014 0 Molybdenum (Mo) as Molybdate
0 0.0014 Molybdenum (Mo) as Sodium Molybdate
0.4 0 Maximum Biuret

Key
OBB: Manutec Orchid Bloom Booster
BB: Manutec Bloom Booster

The Manutec Tomato Magic fertiliser that I predominantly use here on soil and container plants is labelled as suitable for hydroponics. The Calcium though has a tendency of precipitating out of solution in my plant saucers here.
 
Click to expand...
 
I went over to bunnings to check out the Manutec range. I actually went there to buy the Manutec Bloom Booster but when I got there, they had what you listed, the Orchid Bloom booster. I read the package and asked the rep there and they suggested that since the package does not specify it is for vegetables and fruit that I shouldn't use it. I know manutec have another bloom booster but I can't find it anywhere. I am also a little concerned about mixing my own nutes, I don't want to bind any nutes or lock anything out.
 
Jeff H said:
Everyone develops their favorites. There are a lot of brands out there and most will work fine.
 
Here is what I currently use: Equal parts of each.
L4_img_floraduo.png

 
Even though it has calcium in it, I add some cal-mag in once the plants start blooming.
Click to expand...
 
I like this stuff because it simple. I'll grab some of this stuff too. If hydro does well for me this year, next year I'll dive a little deeper.
 
Is this all your plants will need?
 
So far my experience with lettuce has been limited, but from what I have seen, lettuce will take just about any nute you give it. It doesn't require much, my lettuce seems to be very happy at 450 ppm in the nursery tray and 600 ppm in the NFT channels. I bought the cheapest nutes I could find, "CNS17 Grow".
 
theghostpepperstore said:
 I bought the cheapest nutes I could find, "CNS17 Grow".
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, I guess there is no reason to buy a "bloom" formula for lettuce. however, my lettuce and cabbage seem to be doing fine in the same flood table as the pepper plants, but the lettuce is young still and it is probably too early to tell.
 
I'm constantly using different nutes because I am always buying new/different brands. I've used pretty much every major brand there is lol. I actually like kelp4less.com the most, I'm not sure if they deliver OCONUS but www.kelp4less.com has everything you would ever nee. Pers onally I use the 20-20-20 blend plus Silica Blast (botanicare) and cal-mag (botanicare).
 
coheed196 said:
I'm constantly using different nutes because I am always buying new/different brands. I've used pretty much every major brand there is lol. I actually like kelp4less.com the most, I'm not sure if they deliver OCONUS but www.kelp4less.com has everything you would ever nee. Pers onally I use the 20-20-20 blend plus Silica Blast (botanicare) and cal-mag (botanicare).
Click to expand...
I've been using the 20-20-20 from kelp4less.com since you told me about it. I'm also using the fulvic acid humic acid and kelp from them and so far so good. Still using PBP on most plants but trying these on a few.
 
I use Growth Technology A + B. Grow for when you are establishing them and bloom for the poddage.
I also add some Forte which is Silica(helps to form healthy plants) and a bit of Superthrive(don't get it mixed up with Thrive!)
I think superthrive has been banned now so don't know for how long i will be able to use it.
I do mainly grow Peppers but have grown things like eggplants etc that go well too.
 
Micca
 
Sarge said:
I went over to bunnings to check out the Manutec range. I actually went there to buy the Manutec Bloom Booster but when I got there, they had what you listed, the Orchid Bloom booster. I read the package and asked the rep there and they suggested that since the package does not specify it is for vegetables and fruit that I shouldn't use it. I know manutec have another bloom booster but I can't find it anywhere. I am also a little concerned about mixing my own nutes, I don't want to bind any nutes or lock anything out.
Click to expand...
I went to the local Bunnings yesterday and noted down the analysis of Manutec's current Orchid Bloom Booster (in cardboard packaging as compared to the old plastic packaging). The formulation has changed:
Code: 
%W/W
3.0  Nitrogen (N) as Nitrate
12.0 Nitrogen (N) as Urea
15.0 Total Nitrogen (N)
3.0  Phosphorus (P)
9.1  Potassium (K) as Nitrate
4.1  Potassium (K) as Phos.
11.8 Potassium (K) as Sulph.
25.0 Total Potassium
2.80 Sulphur (S) [probably as Sulphate]
0.06 Magnesium (Mg) [as unspecified]
0.05 Iron (Fe) [as unspecified]
0.24 Manganese (Mn) [as unspecified]
0.03 Zinc (Zn) [as unspecified]
0.02 Copper (Cu) [as unspecified]
0.02 Boron (B) [as unspecified]
0.0014 Molybdenum (Mo) [as unspecified]
The ratio of Urea to Nitrate caught my eye as being much higher then the previous formulation. They squeezed the analysis into a bar using tiny font and omitted and left out detail in doing so.

I'm keeping an eye out for fertiliser with a lower K.
 
I'm glad I found this. I'm taking a dive into the water. Will be starting hydroponics this next week. Taking a break from the soil for a while. The ants and I do not get along. I'm highly allergic to them. They don't even have to bite me, just walk across my skin. Now I must carry an Epi pen.

Thanks Harry for the numbers. I was going to use Cal-Mag Plus by default due to RO water.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top