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What is this brown spot on my leaves?
- Thread starter pwb
- Start date
able eye...you're not helping.
pwb: It could potentially be black spot fungus? http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/black-spot-roses.htm
pwb: It could potentially be black spot fungus? http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/black-spot-roses.htm
This is a picture of the plant, it is on the two oldest leaves, i did remove the leave to the left to take picture, but it looks the same as the other. It looks like the spots is following the veins.
I did have something like this last summer, then i sprayed the plants that did have it with cupro5000 and it didnt get worse,
This is a picture of the end of the leaves that goes in to the stem.
And yes, that plant is brighter than the rest, but not so much as the picture look like, thats the light.
I did have something like this last summer, then i sprayed the plants that did have it with cupro5000 and it didnt get worse,
This is a picture of the end of the leaves that goes in to the stem.
And yes, that plant is brighter than the rest, but not so much as the picture look like, thats the light.
It could be the same fungus that afflicted my ghost peppers last summer. Without magnification, it looked like black stains and spatters of black ink on the leaves... by the way, that's a wonderful picture!
Our maritime climate (cool and often damp, every night, all summer) encourages many fungal diseases. A local tree, called 'wild crabapple' (Malus fusca) is a carrier for the black-spot disease of roses, called anthracnose.
The treatment i used was Listerine brand mouthwash, diluted 50% with water, sprayed on leaves (including undersides), as treatment and preventive, once a week. It worked for my ghost peppers too. The active ingredients, menthol and thymol, are safer on a food crop than any other fungicide i know of.
If that product is not available in Norway, locally available fungal treatments from your garden center may be best.
There may be some confusion of names here, as i believe another fungus species causes a disease of peppers that is also named 'anthracnose'.
Our maritime climate (cool and often damp, every night, all summer) encourages many fungal diseases. A local tree, called 'wild crabapple' (Malus fusca) is a carrier for the black-spot disease of roses, called anthracnose.
The treatment i used was Listerine brand mouthwash, diluted 50% with water, sprayed on leaves (including undersides), as treatment and preventive, once a week. It worked for my ghost peppers too. The active ingredients, menthol and thymol, are safer on a food crop than any other fungicide i know of.
If that product is not available in Norway, locally available fungal treatments from your garden center may be best.
There may be some confusion of names here, as i believe another fungus species causes a disease of peppers that is also named 'anthracnose'.
@Pwb: I'd be interested in how the hydrogen peroxide works -- although your fungal pathogen is lighter-pigmented, the growths look very similar to my pepper plants' affliction last summer. I think the one link in this thread recommended a neem oil spray. It is a pretty good all-purpose fungal treatment, and it would be what i would use if the Listerine mouthwash wasn't available.
However, it's been my experience that oil- and soap-based sprays can affect the waxy coating on leaves. You may subsequently encounter leafburns if you again use hydrogen peroxide. The burns can be quite severe. I am not sure how long after exposure to oil/soap-based sprays the plant is rendered sensitive to hydrogen peroxide. I've only learned, so far, that these two treatments together are contraindicated. Note that "potassium stearate" and "potassium salts of fatty acids" are both names for "soap"-based sprays.
I don't have any reason to think that hydrogen peroxide predisposes plants to harm from oil/soap sprays. Hydrogen peroxide does not leave residue or act on waxy substances.
I think that this fungus problem may require prompt treatment. If you have compelling reason to use hydrogen peroxide later, test a few leaves on one plant, wait 24 hours for results, and proceed cautiously.
EDIT: I use a 1% solution of hydrogen peroxide for foliage spraying as a first-line defense against spider mites whenever oil/soap sprays are not involved... what concentration did you use?
However, it's been my experience that oil- and soap-based sprays can affect the waxy coating on leaves. You may subsequently encounter leafburns if you again use hydrogen peroxide. The burns can be quite severe. I am not sure how long after exposure to oil/soap-based sprays the plant is rendered sensitive to hydrogen peroxide. I've only learned, so far, that these two treatments together are contraindicated. Note that "potassium stearate" and "potassium salts of fatty acids" are both names for "soap"-based sprays.
I don't have any reason to think that hydrogen peroxide predisposes plants to harm from oil/soap sprays. Hydrogen peroxide does not leave residue or act on waxy substances.
I think that this fungus problem may require prompt treatment. If you have compelling reason to use hydrogen peroxide later, test a few leaves on one plant, wait 24 hours for results, and proceed cautiously.
EDIT: I use a 1% solution of hydrogen peroxide for foliage spraying as a first-line defense against spider mites whenever oil/soap sprays are not involved... what concentration did you use?
Get yourself some sulfer dust micronized. It is a plant fungicide, it has been being used for ages(literally). It kills mites too and the worst ones the russet mite!
I have sulfur powder, but could i use it on so small plants?
@mikeg: I used 10ml 6% in 250ml water.
The problem i had with sulfur powder last year was that it is difficult to use with a sprayer, i tried 4-5 different sprayers but they all fail after 4-5 sprays. Is there a better way to applay sulfur powder?
@mikeg: I used 10ml 6% in 250ml water.
The problem i had with sulfur powder last year was that it is difficult to use with a sprayer, i tried 4-5 different sprayers but they all fail after 4-5 sprays. Is there a better way to applay sulfur powder?
good ol' FERTILOME TRIPLE X will do it ! 
You can use sulfer dust, but under 90F. Use a bulb duster or you can make one out of a mustard container. Fill to 1/4 then shake then spray. This will give a fine application which is suggested by manufactures. If leaves are overly coated yellow from the sulfer you are more succeeptible to burn the leaves in 90F.
I did coat mine heavy for the russets in autumn and winter for the russets, but it was cooler then.
I did coat mine heavy for the russets in autumn and winter for the russets, but it was cooler then.
It's all about technique.