Will this make peppers hotter?

LawrenceJ2007

LawrenceJ2007

I've found a fertilizer for soil and hydroponics that is said to increase essential sugars and oils in plants, I'm assuming it was made for Cannabis to increase THC and CBD output, but, I wonder if it works for peppers as well? 
 
Capsaicinoids are oils by the way so I wonder if it would increase the oils in these pods as well?
 
It's made by Botanicare apparently and is called Hydroplex, so I wonder if it will work for increasing oils in pods!
 
http://www.botanicare.com/Hydroplex-0-10-6-P52C3.aspx
 
Doesn't say what is actually in it.
It might just be something they brew that is the same as something else you are already using.

0/10/6 only shows the same as maybe other stuff has.
Why is their stuff better?

For instance 5/1/1 is fish emultion but I see the same numbers for Liquinox stuff.
Theirs uses urea for the 5.
theirs doesn't act the same with my plants,burns them.
I've never burned my plants with Alaska.
It has to break down first.
Seaweed extract is different than other ferts too.

Not enough info,unless I missed it,that actually says WHY it's better as far as what it is made of.
I'd think some kind of salts due to their claim of how much the concentrate makes per gal.

I personally think if you give a plant everything all the time it only uses what it wants in general at a given time.
Adding whatever during bloom might get better buds but if you still add the nitrogen I don't think it messes with the other stuff.
I think roots take what the plants want ALL the time.
IF everything is there you don't need to mess with other stuff.
Basically give your plants everything in plant usable amounts and you'll be ok.
The only problem I see is the same plant receptors use both Ca. and Mag.
Overuse either at the wrong time and you screw up your plants at one stage or another.

But I tried Foliar feeding.
I think the runoff did the work.
Leaves are designed for light conversion.
Teas etc. add stuff to the soil I think.
Never seen a study about plants that were foliar fed with a barrier so the soil never got run off.
I see lots of stuff saying UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS leaves can obsorb a few nutes.
NO where near what the roots/soil can do.
Micro nutes in the soil do seem to help out.
BUT I think if your soil is cool it already has the stuff in it from nature.

It boils down to what you are willing to spend on your soil,nutes and whatever else.
The way I grow my plants and starts might not work for anyone else.
I only know what works for me at any given time for my potted plants.
 
smokemaster said:
Doesn't say what is actually in it.
It might just be something they brew that is the same as something else you are already using.

0/10/6 only shows the same as maybe other stuff has.
Why is their stuff better?

For instance 5/1/1 is fish emultion but I see the same numbers for Liquinox stuff.
Theirs uses urea for the 5.
theirs doesn't act the same with my plants,burns them.
Click to expand...
 
Plenty of us here on this site use Botanicare products and don't burn our plants - only user error burns plants. 
 
You can find what's in each Botanicare product at their website and on their labels. The 0/10/6 is only the N/P/K portion, and Botanicare and Liquinox products usually have many other nutrients in them besides N/P/K, so that portion isn't really meaningful for every product. For example, Botanicare's CalMag gives a boost of calcium and magnesium, neither of which is N, P, or K, yet calcium and magnesium are essential for peppers in the production stage. If all you're doing is looking at N/P/K, you're missing a large chunk of information.
 
Soil can become depleted of its nutrients over time. Additionally, soil may or may not have the ideal nutrients or pH for a given plant. Using fertilizers ensures that the plant receives the nutrients best suited for it at it's different stages, and can also correct if the soil has improper pH. If you happen to live in an area that has good soil for peppers, good for you. That is definitely not the case for everywhere on the planet. Because soils vary greatly in different places, the fertilizer that is right for your plants for your soil and other conditions may not be the right fertilizer for another area. 
 
Well I'm thinking of doing an experiment with these products. Two seeds from the same pod in two pots with the same soil and nutes, the only difference will be this fertilizer to see if it honestly does anything for it. I'll use the Brown Moruga to see if it actually makes it hotter or just does nothing at all...
 
I'll be growing them in the greenhouse over the winter, so hopefully my lighting and such will keep everything going good.
 
Guaranteed Analysis:


  • Available Phosphate (P2O5): 10.0%
  • Soluable Potash (K2O): 6.0%
  • Magnesium (Mg): 0.5%, 0.5% Water Soluble Magnesium (Mg)
Derived from: Monopotassium phosphate, potassium borate, potassium molybdate, phosphoric acid, Magnesium sulfate.
Click to expand...
 
Looks like nothing special, one of their least nutritious fertilizers.  Then again I sometimes question the benefits of extra-special fertilizer but that's the cheap side of me that chooses to compost instead.
 
At one point people used to say that starving a plant of water would stress it and result in hotter pods,  then people and studies came along that suggested capsaicin increases with higher moisture levels.   Some suggest that picking off blooms so the plant grows fewer peppers make them hotter.
 
Then there's the obvious solution that given the same growing conditions you can choose a pepper known to be a hotter variety.
 
Its a p-k booster and geared more towards cannabis to fatten up the buds.Cannabis uses alot of p-k in the flowering stage and these boosters make the plant produce more cannabanoids. I really doubt it would help peppers to much but then again who knows. I just say feed the plants a good balance fertilizer and water when needed and the plants will produce top notch peppers. Most of these additives are voodoo juice just made to make money.
 
That's what I'm thinking now, I've been reading up on them and some say they work great others say stay away. But I will go along with my test to see what it does if anything at all...
 
So I will have two plants, two Brown Morugas, I have them growing right now in peat pellets. I will transplant these into smart pots (10 gallons) once they start getting some better roots. They will both be planted in a mixture of 50% Peat, 25% Mushroom Compost, 12.5% Potting mix, 12.5% Pearlite. Both seedlings came from the same pod, so that variable is out of the equation. 
 
I will be using a root starter formula for the first day of transplanting, then Fish emulsion (5-1-1), then once blooming starts I'll switch to both plants on a regular bloom fertilizer and once the blooms start turning to actual peppers I will give one plant half regular bloom and half the new fert stuff, so a half dose of each to see if it makes a difference.
 
Sound like a good idea?
 
The only problem I see is if you use 2 different plants for the test they can naturally be different one being hotter than the other. For a more controlled test I would use clones off of the same plant.That way you have identical genetics the only difference being the way they are feed.
 
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