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Maximum Growth With Foliar Feeding

I read some research papers a couple of years ago and realized that the best and most efficient way to feed plants is by "Foilar Feeding". I had just brewed a nice batch of worm tea and was in the process of feeding my plants yesterday just before dark when a neighbor asked why do I spray my plants so often. I explained the process of worm tea and foliar feeding and she was shocked to here how more efficient foilar feeding was and asked if I had any literature on how to do it. Well I pointed her to my favorite online resource and thought I would post that same link here as a good point of reference on what and why foilar feed is a must for my plants and should be for yours as well in addition to it's standard soil feedings.

Enjoy the read!

Foliar feeding is the application or feeding of a plant with a liquid nutrient or additive through the leaves instead of via the roots. Foliar spraying was first proven to work by the notable plant researcher Dr. H.B. Tukey. His early experiments used radioactive labeled/tagged phosphorus and potassium to view the uptake and transport of these ions by the leaves and their transport around the plant. Dr. Tukey found plant nutrients moved at the rate of about one foot per hour to all parts of the plants. Comparing efficiency of plant use of foliar-fed nutrients versus soil-applied nutrients near roots, he found foliar feeding provided about 95 per cent efficiency of use compared to about 10 per cent of use from soil applications! This early work showed that foliar spraying has great potential as an additional feeding program to allow for increased growth rates and development of plants.
In fact, a recent study of foliar-sprayed leaf versus root absorption of radioactive tagged complex carbohydrates and amino acids at a Canadian university indicated that these molecules are just too big to be effectively absorbed by the roots, but can be easily and effectively absorbed by the leaves.

"To get the best out of foliar feeding, you must apply something that directly affects one of the many production pathways inside the leaf."

Why should we foliar feed?
If we think of a plant as a city, then the leaves would be the manufacturing centers of that city. Almost everything a plant requires to grow and develop is manufactured in the leaves. Hormones, metabolites, proteins and amino acids—the list goes on, and they are all manufactured in specialized cells contained within the plant's leaves. Sunlight is the main catalyst for this, as everything begins with a photon of light received from the sun or an artificial source. The roots, too, produce some hormones but it is insignificant compared to what is produced in the leaves. If we look at a plant in this way, we can see that the best opportunity to increase the plant's production capacity, and hence our yield, is to go direct to the factories themselves, the leaves. Foliar spraying is the only practical way that most of these little leaf-based factories can be accelerated due to two primary factors:

1. The presence of a specialized root structure called the Casparian strip. This strip is located inside each and every root and acts as a specialized barrier that blocks the uptake of all elements or compounds except simple sugars and regular plant nutrients like nitrogen and potassium. Numerous studies conducted at a Canadian university have indicated that plants cannot uptake things like amino acids and complex carbohydrates effectively through their roots. Root-based supplements or growth and flowering stimulants based on these things can never really work unless they are foliar-fed, because, quite simply, they are never taken up by the plant's roots.

2. The negative feedback loop system. Even if some elements such as hormones are taken up by the roots, this feedback loop stops almost all of these additives from ever working. It does so by detecting the basic hormones contained in these performance additives and correspondingly slowing or completely stopping the plant's own internal production of these compounds to compensate and keep everything in balance—almost like a plant veto! However, when used in conjunction with a high-quality commercial delivery agent, foliar feeding defeats this system easily by temporarily and suddenly flooding the plant's negative feedback loop system, overwhelming it and allowing for a temporary increase in growth and development. It is by this systematic and periodic flooding of the plant's metabolic systems that we can increase overall growth and development when using foliar feeding—and of course obtain that maximum yield!

What should I foliar feed?
Foliar feeding should never be used as the sole source of plant nutrition. Instead, a good foliar program supports the plant via the foliar application of carefully selected plant additives that accelerate or enhance the action of one or more of the plant's metabolic subsystems, in some cases helping to speed up the plant's use of light itself. To get the best out of foliar feeding, you must apply something that directly affects one of the many production pathways inside the leaf. Using a commercially available delivery agent, it is possible to directly increase the production pathway associated with light energy conversion into plant energy (sugar, carbon and so on)—also known as photosynthesis. Other things that can be successfully used are a ⅓-strength grow nutrient solution. This can quickly correct any nutrient deficiencies, but remember to use a delivery agent with any foliar application for best results.

I've tried foliar feeding before but it didn't work like it was supposed to. What can I do?
"Almost everything a plant requires to grow and develop is manufactured in the leaves."
For any foliar program to be completely effective in enhancing that maximum yield, you must be able to deliver your specialized plant stimulants and nutrients inside the leaf of your plant. Now, this is not as easy as it sounds—because you first have to get past the protective waxy layer that surrounds every leaf. Once past this layer, you must then get it inside the cells where all the action is taking place. This is not as simple as just madly spraying your leaves with plant nutrients or additives, as most of what you apply to the leaves will never be absorbed. For many years it was believed that by allowing a solution to remain in contact with the leaf surface for an extended period of time, the effective absorption of that solution would take place through tiny openings in the leaf's surface called the stomata. The plant uses its stomata to absorb and exchange gases (CO2, O2) and to regulate water flow (transpiration). Modern research now shows, however, that only a tiny portion of what you spray can actually get inside the leaf surface via the stomata. In fact, typically less than 10 per cent of the stomata uptake any plant nutrients. This inefficiency is then further compounded by the fact that even once taken up, most of the supplied material is immobilized on the inner side of the leaf surface by ion exchange membranes. This certainly explains the very hit-and-miss effects of traditional foliar spraying when trying to get that maximum yield with plant nutrients and additives. The only way to effectively deliver large amounts of specialized elements inside the leaves of your plant is to use a new type of product known as a delivery agent, which is not to be confused with a wetting agent. The difference between a wetting agent and a delivery agent is very simple and very important. A wetting agent is designed to make water wetter, so that it sits more evenly over the leaf and extends the contact area and time of contact when applied to a leaf. A delivery agent is primarily designed to actively deliver, or translocate, plant stimulants from the outside of the leaf surface to the inside, past the ion-exchange membranes and directly to the cells where they are needed to achieve a maximum yield. A delivery agent is designed to do this independently of the stomatal openings in the leaves, giving you a unique opportunity to profoundly affect the development and growth patterns of your plant. Make sure you use a delivery agent—not a wetting agent—if you want to be able to maximize the results from a specialized foliar spraying program.



Here is an article taken from Maximum Yield Dec 2010 article written by Craig Gibble.

Full artcile on Maximum Yeilds website
 
Is it ok to foliar feed 1/4 strenght fish fert to seedlings, I believe I read somewhere it was but I want to confirm this before I spray them.

Great info thanks for the link!
 
I'm going research this one, and do some experiments. my plants seem to react to Epsom salt the fastest i'm going to mix my nutes with epsom salt and see what happens. Great article thanks.
it brings up alot of things to think about if it were true you couldn't burn plants with a spray, you could not get inside the leaf.
 
Howdy

Great article LGHT, but being the newb grower that i am i had no clue that a "delivery agent" even existed so i did some research and this is the only 1 out there correct?
Great more money to spend this stuff is PRICEY.

Dutch Master Penetrator

Dutch Master PENETRATOR is the world's first foliar delivery agent and a horticultural super power! PENETRATOR has revolutionized performance hydroponics and made it safe, easy and affordable for everyone. Foliar performance nutrition is now a must-see reality with PENETRATOR, the world's first foliar delivery agent!


Foliar sprays won't work without it! It's now a clinically proven fact that Dutch Master PENETRATOR is the only effective way to harness the incredible power of foliar spraying. Tests conducted at the University of British Columbia have repeatedly shown that without PENETRATOR - it just doesn't get in!

Dramatically increase the results in your garden! By harnessing the incredible power of PENETRATOR with foliar spraying you can now dramatically increase the results you get from your garden. Increase the amount of light your plants can use by 60% with PENETRATOR and FOLITECH! Pump up those sugar levels with PENETRATOR and MAX-FX! For the first time, PENETRATOR allows you to get "REAL" performance from foliar spraying and will definitely give you those big yields!

Safe and easy to use! PENETRATOR is so easy to use, just add PENETRATOR to your favorite foliar supplement and spray! In fact you can even spray in full light, what could be easier! PENETRATOR is completely safe for you and your plants. Just another way Dutch Master is revolutionizing high performance hydroponics!

Beware of the incredible power of PENETRATOR! PENETRATOR is so powerful in its action, that if you're not using it with Dutch Master foliar products then you might overload your plants with too much of a good thing!
NPK: .006-0-0

Directions for use:

For every 1 litre / quart of final spray solution add 60ml / 4tbsp of Penetrator.
Spray leaves according to solution directions or until runoff.
 
Feeding through the leaves has been around for a long time. I'll do it a couple of times a season. Until I read SRBll's post above I've never even heard of a substance that is added to the spray to insure the plant can use the available ferts being added. I always though the pH levels were responsible for nutrient intake.
 
dish washing soap will act as a wetting agent as long as its soap Ivory,Murphy's are soap and not detergent, I checked all my plants leafs and found that they were not oily as the article says my neighbors pot plants are oily i checked last night. have been feeding Thur the leaves for many years and it always worked for me. just some way to get some cash crop money ( my thought) I do use soap with neem oil it helps stick it to the leaves. work for me!
Patrick me too, has always worked.
 
So is dish soap a Wetting agent or a delivery agent or both? Since hot stuff asked if it would act as a delivery agent and Hawaii said wetting agent?

LGHT's post reads at the bottom

"The difference between a wetting agent and a delivery agent is very simple and very important. A wetting agent is designed to make water wetter, so that it sits more evenly over the leaf and extends the contact area and time of contact when applied to a leaf. A delivery agent is primarily designed to actively deliver, or translocate, plant stimulants from the outside of the leaf surface to the inside, past the ion-exchange membranes and directly to the cells where they are needed to achieve a maximum yield.

so are you saying this "delivery agent" is merly a money making scam and that the University of British Columbia is in on it?

i think ill stick with good ol H2O & stinky fish emu spray for now lol
 
Did some research on Penetor there is a lot of info on the web all papers and articles by the same people if you look at tcs Hydroponic.com you will find it for 29.95 a liter continue down the page you will find fish fertilizer that is best applied as a spray to the leaves. they're having a hard time with telling you need this stuff and lower down the page you don't. i think I will stick with sea weed and fish fertilizer and H20
 
Did some research on Penetor there is a lot of info on the web all papers and articles by the same people if you look at tcs Hydroponic.com you will find it for 29.95 a liter continue down the page you will find fish fertilizer that is best applied as a spray to the leaves. they're having a hard time with telling you need this stuff and lower down the page you don't. i think I will stick with sea weed and fish fertilizer and H20

yup kinda my thoughts exactly, i got happy plants without it :cool: :beer:
 
"A wetting agent is designed to make water wetter, so that it sits more evenly over the leaf and extends the contact area and time of contact when applied to a leaf. A delivery agent is primarily designed to actively deliver, or translocate, plant stimulants from the outside of the leaf surface to the inside, past the ion-exchange membranes and directly to the cells where they are needed to achieve a maximum yield"

Sorry I missed the replies on this. I previously used dish washing soap, detergent, and the old version of dutch masters "penetrator" and now use the new and improved dutch masters "satuaturtor gold". When I first started my foliar feeding cycle the water by itself would make large beads and just sit on the leaf surface. detergent / shops helped make smaller bids, but the water still made beads. That all changed when I used the dutchmasters. The water almost never made beads and if they did it made very small beads on the leaf surface. The new ones does pretty much the same thing. My local hydro shop that I buy all my goods from does monthly "workshops" it's a big shop and very popular as I leave by the beach in cali by a good amount of hippies and a while back they did one on foliar feeding. He did the same side by side test and it was a clear and apparent difference with the wetting agent. Now some water hard / soft, etc may or may not bead as much or at all, but I know my water did. I also had to adjust the nozzle on my pump sprayer so I would get "mist" on the plant only. I thought if i'm going to go through all the hassle and time and effort I may as well spend a few extra bucks.
 
Sorry I missed the replies on this. I previously used dish washing soap, detergent, and the old version of dutch masters "penetrator" and now use the new and improved dutch masters "satuaturtor gold". When I first started my foliar feeding cycle the water by itself would make large beads and just sit on the leaf surface. detergent / shops helped make smaller bids, but the water still made beads. That all changed when I used the dutchmasters. The water almost never made beads and if they did it made very small beads on the leaf surface. The new ones does pretty much the same thing. My local hydro shop that I buy all my goods from does monthly "workshops" it's a big shop and very popular as I leave by the beach in cali by a good amount of hippies and a while back they did one on foliar feeding. He did the same side by side test and it was a clear and apparent difference with the wetting agent. Now some water hard / soft, etc may or may not bead as much or at all, but I know my water did. I also had to adjust the nozzle on my pump sprayer so I would get "mist" on the plant only. I thought if i'm going to go through all the hassle and time and effort I may as well spend a few extra bucks.

It would be great to see a side by side done here on THP *hint hint* :P i love hippies :lol:

i looked for ever to find the perfect spray bottle that jsut gives the lightest softest mist so i dont get alot of beading and runoff could be the water i use as you mentioned im still very intreaged in this product so if i can afford a jug next season i will do a side by side. :beer:

*edit typo*
 
Well even with my sprayer the water without the wetting agent beaded quit a bit so for me it was something I had to have. I got a pint for $20 and i'm sure it will last for more than 1 season. I didn't do a side by side comparison, but since i've started foliar feeding and adding worm tea my plants produced a lot more then the previous year and grow a lot bigger last year.
 
The above article states that " Foliar feeding should never be used as the the sole source of plant nutrition" that cought my attn... I also read some of your posts about it and correct me if I'm wrong ...you practice foliar feeding has your sole source of nutrition ? Or do you also add liquid fertilizer into the soil ?
Cheers ...
 
I know first hand that foliar feeding makes plants grow very fast. I grew tomatoes using MG fertilizer 1/2 strength foliar spray and they grew very well. Only spray in the morning and don't do it too much because problems can take place if leaves are wet too much.
 
For those of you that are a bit confused by the terminology in this:

A WETTING AGENT is typically something that you would consider to be an agent to lower surface tension. This helps to make smaller droplets of water which essentially allows the water to stick to the leaves rather than rolling off. This allows maximum surface area of the leaves to be in contact with your ferts.

A DELIVERY AGENT is something that the feed needs to facilitate its entry through ion channels in the cells. Ion pathways are typically the only way larger molecules can enter cells, so I would imagine a delivery agent would 'carry' fertilizer ions through the channels to help them penetrate deeper into the leaves.

So a wetting agent holds the fertilizer there so it can be absorbed while the delivery agent gets it past the leaves' bodyguards deeper into the cells.

One thing that I didn't quite catch from this was whether or not the fertilizers are absorbed entirely through the stomata or if they can be absorbed directly through the cell walls on other parts of the leaves. If they are absorbed entirely (or nearly entirely) through the stomata, one would benefit greatly from focusing spray on the undersides of the leaves rather than the whole plant. If I'm not mistaken the undersides of the leaves hold the majority of the stomata where the spray will be absorbed.

I would think it would be best to spray late in the day. The closer to dusk the better. Not only do more stoma open at night when it gets cooler, but the last thing you want is to burn your leaves with the little droplets. They act like little magnifying classes and we all know what sunlight can do to ants :fireball:
 
"I would think it would be best to spray late in the day. The closer to dusk the better. Not only do more stoma open at night when it gets cooler, but the last thing you want is to burn your leaves with the little droplets"

When I say morning I am talking sunrise, I foliar spray when I feed. It ideal to water early in the morning so the plant is watered through the day rather at night when it will sit with wet roots. I grow with one water a day formula medium so....
 
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