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media making Cornell Peat-Lite... like a boss.

thought id post how i go about making my soiless mix.
super simple. 50% peat, 50% perlite. some wetting agent, and some lime. takes about 35 min. no guess work no "feeling" no thought at all. no worms, no composted fish innerds, no seaweed no cradads, no "tea" of anykind.
this mix is for simple folks like myself that prefer to fertigate as opposed to shoveling w/e organic matter you can get you hands on into your mix.

heres how we do it.

first you need this.
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3.8 cubic foot bales of perlite and bacto peat.

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dolomitic lime, and 60 ml of drexel Surfact 820.

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a place to mix it all up...

so yea just hack them open.
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so now we have a layer of peat and perlite.

NOW. important bit, we need to add some surfactant.

why? look here.

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peat is stupid hydrophobic. this water will sit on the surface for like 30 min before soaking into the peat. in order to defeat this we will add a NON IONIC surfactant. has to be non ionic... ill elaborate at the end of this.
i am using 60 ml of alkylphenol ethoxilate added to approximatly 3 gallons of water. this is watered into the top of the peat by a simple watering can...

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its hard to see here... but the soapy water will make a 2" or so cake of wet peat. we will bust this layer of wet peat into tiny tiny crumbs.... and homogeneously mix it through out the peatlite.

why? because the weted peat "crumbs" will distribute the wetting angent evenly throughout the peatlite, such that when you water it... you get a nice even promix like weting.

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this is what im talking about. these have to be broken all the way down.

here is how i do it.

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thats a grout mixing bit.

once you have broken it all down, add your lime. i typically use about 100grams per 15 gallons of peat. HOWEVER, since this is a brand of peat i have never used... i only used half of what i usually do. why? because not all peat is made the same. a while back home depot sold very cheap peat bales. they were like half bark, and almost ph neutral. if i had to guess id say they were treated with some lime already... but anyway its better to undershoot than over.
 
i do thanks.

anyway. so you added the lime. now just start turning it over... and over and over. put your manly back into it.

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5 min...

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broke my crummy $10 HD shovel... do they sell fiberglass handles for these?

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20 min or so.... and bam. peat lite.
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not done yet tho. whats the ph and bulk density?

take your mix... and bake it in an oven for about an hour at 300 degrees. if you are not going to measure it immediatly, seal it up in a jar or put it into the fridge.
take your now very dry sample, and weigh out a measured volume... in my case i weighed out 100 ml.
100ml of my peat lite weighs 14.3 grams

SO the bulk density is approximately .143 grams/ cubic centimeter. VERY light stuff gentlemen. much lighter than promix HP and 1/2 the cost.


now to measure ph we make a slurry....
for normal soils, equal parts distilled water and soil will do. however peat lite is very very very very light and porous. it will suck up lots of water before you can get a decent slurry. i ended up added about 100 grams of water to 30 grams of peat lite... see below.

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and bam

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so its very high! ouch. so apparently bacto is not ph balanced like i had feared. however no sweat, ill just toss another cup into the mix... turn it over for a while, than measure again.
you do not want to over shoot! get it between 5.5 and 6.5.
if you do over shoot... you will have to add more peat to bring it back down. once you toss in the lime its not coming out, so measure carefully. like i said above. i usually do 100grams per 15 gallons or 3 HD homer buckets of peat... however this is not a one size fits all thing.. theres a decent variety in quality of peat some is much more acidic than others, so your results WILL defiantly vary

here are some notes for you gentlemen:

the final product wets effortlessly. its interesting to note that i used to use about 4x as much wetting agent. it was recently brought to my attention that in the cornell papers they are using something like 3.5 ounces per 100 gallons? something like that. anyway using so much less wetting agent doesn't appear to effect the final product.

dont buy bacto peat. its twiggy and generally crap peat. up until now ive bought ferti-loam peat bales at 28 a pop. these costed 21, so i didnt object when i found out that the fertilizer place did not have any 3.8 fertiloam bales. well there is a reason its only 21 i guess. i dont know if they are simply adding twigs and crap to bulk out their product... or if they are just to lazy to sift them out. either way its crap product, and stay away if possible. pay for the premier bales... same people that make promix... or fertiloam bales.

no comment on perlite, i use the cheap coarse sunshine perlite that seems to be everywhere... including the hydro shops. ive been tempted to buy the "chunky" perlite, but they want like 40 bucks for it at the hydro store.

wetting agents... ok so heres what the organic crowd hates... chemicals.
im using a procuct called drexel surf-act 820. its ACTUALLY made as a pesticide adjuvant, however it is exactly the same as "hydro wet" or the infamous aquagro 2000.
PROMIX USES THE SAME INGREDIANT. it is however not safe for human consumption. so do not drink.

heres some links ive saved that you might find relevent.

APE-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nonylphenol

peat lite info:
http://www.vermiculi...rd/peatlite.pdf
http://www.uaex.edu/...DF/FSA-6097.pdf
http://swfrec.ifas.u...rans_media4.pdf

wetting agent info:
http://www.soil.ncsu...39-25/index.htm
http://etd.auburn.ed...g_Xiaomei_2.pdf
https://s3.amazonaws...00304181359.pdf
 
About how long does the lime you are using keep the peat in the 5.5 - 6.5 range? Do you test again to make sure you haven't drifted back down, or does your fertigation help to keep the ph balanced through the year? Or, is it just not an issue?
 
i dont know tbh. ive never tested the peat after like a year in use.
im inclined to say its just not an issue. the nutrient that i use is around 6 ph anyway.
 
i dont know tbh. ive never tested the peat after like a year in use.
im inclined to say its just not an issue. the nutrient that i use is around 6 ph anyway.

I only ask because I use Pro-Mix and after about a year without changing the mix out, plants seem to show signs of nute lockout. It also seems like adding a bit of lime to the pots takes care of the issue. I haven't ever tested it either, but I just assumed that it was a PH issue.
 
Very nice! I'm using a similar mix for my grow this year. Took yours and Capsicum's advice (well for the most part) from this thread. I'm doing 2 parts peat to 1 part perlite, and 2 tbsp. of lime to 1 gallon of peat. I did not use a wetting agent but I've not noticed any real troubles with my peat being hydrophobic. I also did not do any PH testing (probably a mistake on my part), but my seedlings thus far don't seem to be complaining. Time will tell if I need to make some adjustments.

Also the perlite I'm using is pretty coarse and chunky. Not sure if that will hurt me or not, though I doubt it will.

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how much was that perlite? its cost prohibitive around here... or at least its cost prohibitive for pepper plants.

yea i used to basically copy promix too, but ive had better results with straight peat lite. plus its stupid simple to make. because its 1:1 you will never have an orphaned bag of perlite or peat left hanging around the garage.

once peat is wet, it will easily re wet. however... a wetting agent will increase the uniformity of wetness throughout your mix. its entirely possible there are areas dyer than others. however if you take care to wet the entire surface uniformly thats probably not the case.
if you use drip emitters and not spray emitters imo a wetting agent is a must.
 
how much was that perlite? its cost prohibitive around here... or at least its cost prohibitive for pepper plants.

yea i used to basically copy promix too, but ive had better results with straight peat lite. plus its stupid simple to make. because its 1:1 you will never have an orphaned bag of perlite or peat left hanging around the garage.

once peat is wet, it will easily re wet. however... a wetting agent will increase the uniformity of wetness throughout your mix. its entirely possible there are areas dyer than others. however if you take care to wet the entire surface uniformly thats probably not the case.
if you use drip emitters and not spray emitters imo a wetting agent is a must.

I got a 4 cubic foot bag of that for $25 at my local hydro shop.

And I will be using drip emitters once I put them outside. I will be using root pouches once outside, so I will be watering often. Hopefully that will keep the peat from getting hydrophobic on me.

Edit: Heh, just got on their site and they've upped the price on it by $5: http://thehydroponicshopoflexington.com/mother-earth-mother-earth-perlite-nashville-p-3124.html
 
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