Lets rehash the best way to root cuttings...

I've read most everything on this forum and all over the web.  My results have mostly sucked the hind tit though.  I'm currently trying yet another method of rooting in dirt with controlled humidity and full sun.
 
What I believe to be the major problem here is the lack of air flow in order to maintain the needed humidity.  The plant needs air flow for energy yet around here more air flow means single digit humidity most of the year.  Sure not right now though!
 
Does anyone have a rooting system for cuttings they use to control lighting and humidity while also having good ventilation?
 
Is red vs blue LED lighting better for rooting cuttings?
 
What are your thoughts on the pro's and con's of rooting in moist dirt over just water?
 
How often should the water be changed, or the dirt be flushed?
 
I'm trying to keep the exact genetics going on one of my plants that's a monster right now in case of a frost this year so any and all intelligent ideas will be tried.  Super El Nino is gone so its likely we will see a few frozen nights this winter and it's unlikely I can protect this plant.

Hydroponics has been the way to go for me. Easy to check the progress compared to doing it in a soiless mix. Any cloning I have done is for experimenting,and some species of Capsicum are easier than others. That being said,I have never had a clone even come close to vigor or productivity of the original plant.

Nuclieye said:

Super El Nino is gone so its likely we will see a few frozen nights this winter and it's unlikely I can protect this plant.

Click to expand...

 
Can you cut it back, tent it and use a heat lamp during the cold nights?

ezcloner(can buy or diy) or aerogarden seem to have the easiest results.
 
light color doesn't matter, same as usual.
 
rooting in water is better than dirt.
 
circulating water is better like in the cloner

I just use a glass with a bit of water in it, and change the water daily to every other day. Keep them in the sun via the front window. Works just fine - as long as I don't get too busy and forget to change the water before it entirely evaporates. Yeah, done that too...

Have you looked into Air Layering/Marcoting?> http://thehotpepper.com/topic/23472-air-layeringmarcotting/
 
http://www.interesjournals.org/full-articles/a-method-of-rapid-propagation-of-hot-pepper-using-marcoting-technique-to-maintain-clonal-characteristics.pdf?view=inline
 
http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid=99EE1BFDD83F4CD69E4F576C4CC8A599&inv=47CDE58A430D7CD&albumid={6A2519BC-712E-4376-A8AB-8769042F5874}&inv=47CDE58A430D7CD

The_NorthEast_ChileMan said:

Have you looked into Air Layering/Marcoting?> http://thehotpepper.com/topic/23472-air-layeringmarcotting/
 
http://www.interesjournals.org/full-articles/a-method-of-rapid-propagation-of-hot-pepper-using-marcoting-technique-to-maintain-clonal-characteristics.pdf?view=inline
 
http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid=99EE1BFDD83F4CD69E4F576C4CC8A599&inv=47CDE58A430D7CD&albumid={6A2519BC-712E-4376-A8AB-8769042F5874}&inv=47CDE58A430D7CD

Click to expand...

 
I have not yet but sure as heck will now.  Hadn't thought about that method in years.  Will do so this afternoon and see how it goes, I sure have plenty of plant to try it on.  Will it work on larger branches with 1/2" stems?

Nuclieye said:

I've read most everything on this forum and all over the web.  My results have mostly sucked the hind tit though.  I'm currently trying yet another method of rooting in dirt with controlled humidity and full sun.
 
What I believe to be the major problem here is the lack of air flow in order to maintain the needed humidity.  The plant needs air flow for energy yet around here more air flow means single digit humidity most of the year.  Sure not right now though!
 
Does anyone have a rooting system for cuttings they use to control lighting and humidity while also having good ventilation?
 
Is red vs blue LED lighting better for rooting cuttings?
 
What are your thoughts on the pro's and con's of rooting in moist dirt over just water?
 
How often should the water be changed, or the dirt be flushed?
 
I'm trying to keep the exact genetics going on one of my plants that's a monster right now in case of a frost this year so any and all intelligent ideas will be tried.  Super El Nino is gone so its likely we will see a few frozen nights this winter and it's unlikely I can protect this plant.

Click to expand...

 
Nuclieye,
 
I understand and feel your pain. See, I had the same issue of hating to deal with humidity, and acclimation period once the cuttings finally rooted. So, I did some digging. I use my cloning 98% for cannabis, but what I came up with does work for almost any other plant (that is able to be cloned).
 
I use a bubble cloner.
 
The main reason I use the bubble cloner is because I can put a cutting in the collar and the stem of the cutting sits in a very oxygen-rich reservoir (just tap water [i use tap for a particular reason] aerated with air stones and a good pump) BUT the rest of the plant does NOT need to be covered or the humidity regulated at all. The cuttings are in open air as it sets roots.
 
To make the bubble cloner, I just went to Lowes and bought a 1.5' x 2' x 6" tall storage tote with a flat lid. Cut 24 circular holes in the lid and bought neoprene inserts (sized to fit the holes, though they can simply rest on top of the holes instead of having to be the exact size to wedge into the holes). I use two air stones with a 60-gallon air pump.
 
THE BEST THING IS - when I get roots on the cuttings, I can immediately pot them into a seedling soil mix (MUST KEEP SOIL DAMP AT ALL TIMES, as plants that go from hydro to soil can sometimes get a little sad if they don't stay damp emough). And since they never were in a humidity dome to begin with, they don't need to be acclimated to the environment since they have alwasy been in that environment since being cut from the mother.
 
Anyways, I need to get back to work so... best of luck!
 
 
mrgg*
 

 

 

 
This below pic was me comparing the humidity dome method vs. the bubble cloner

 

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(above) it's a set it 'n' forget it situation. Just keep th water level up to the cuttings and use only plain tap water. I like to let my tap water sit out for a day to dechlorinate a little.
 
As an extension experiment, I tried NOT chanigng the water res and see how long it can still produce 100% rooting success for me, and it lasted 6 months!!! Until I needed to do a 75% water change!!! Just kept topping it off for the 6 months with tap water.
 
PS: this is basically the same as an easy cloner or aeroponic cloner, just with a dwc type set up
 
 
 
.

I have read several bonsai books and rooting cutting are an extensively used practice there. When plants grow, their root system are in equilibrium to the the canopy. When a plant is cut down to go into a bonsai pot, the canopy must be cut down equally, because the newly cut root system can't support a full sized plant.

When cutting are taken in bonsai, the most vigorous branches are chosen, and all most apical (top) sets of leaves are stripped from the branch, and the cutting is set in a glass of water. A tiny cut branch cannot pull enough water up the stem to get enough moisture to several leaves, which respirate moisture into the air.

It's not uncommon to put a bag over the cutting to help retain moisture while new roots grow, as long as the bag is removed for a short period each day.