Broad mites

Well, unfortunately seem to be getting expert experience with these critters.
 
Was going to put this post in the pest thread but its to important for that.
 
After battling sFl broad mites(and many other pests) off and on for years now have come to a positive conclusion.
 
Once you see broad mite damage, its probably to late to have a pristine plant that produces pristine fruit. Yes you can save the plant if you catch it early, but it will produce stunted and deformed foliage and fruit, if not forever more than for a long long time...
 
Once even a small amount of broad mites inject their toxic saliva, thats it. Most plants can recover with treatments, but will never be the same again. Leafs will continue to be deformed as will the fruit. The degree of deformation/stunting all depends on the severity of infestation and how quickly it was stopped by treatments.
 
Don't get me wrong, a recovered broad mite infested plant will still produce some good tasting fruit, it just wont look/be/produce the same as a plant that never got infected with broad mites... Yield will be much lower, fruit/foliage won't be as big and will be deformed. Plant will have stunted growth.  Kind of like Chile polio...
 
 My suggestion to those of us that have have had them in the past, or in areas that have them, be preemptive. Spray neem or some other organic miticide on a regular basis from when plants are very young, way way before you see any damage. Once you see broad mite damage, then its really to late to get a full productive crop no matter what you do...
 
jmo
 

 
 

 
 

 
pure Chile plant evil under magnification

You should top those when the damage occurs.  Snip the damaged areas off, and burn what you remove.
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They'll bounce back like wildfire.  It just hurts a little to see parts come off.  But you gotta do it...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
What solid7 said.
 
As soon as you see it cut it off. You can't reverse the damage that has already happened but the plant is not a lost cause.
 
I have had excellent results using lime sulphur too (still remove the damaged parts though)

bob65 said:

I have had excellent results using lime sulphur too (still remove the damaged parts though)

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Won't disagree with this...   But be exceedingly careful not to apply ANY sort of oil, or oil based product, within 3 weeks of a sulfur treatment.  Doing so can kill the plant absolutely dead.  Also, be careful not to get too much on the ground around the plant, or you will kill beneficial bugs and microbes, as well as lowering pH.
 
EDIT: mistakenly said "raise pH", corrected to "lower pH"

solid7 said:

You should top those when the damage occurs.  Snip the damaged areas off, and burn what you remove.
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They'll bounce back like wildfire.  It just hurts a little to see parts come off.  But you gotta do it...

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Ya, I always prune off the damage, you have to. You explained that to me quite a while ago, took your advice ever since. Doesn't hurt a bit, happy to hack off those bastards off and burn them just as you advised quite a while ago....
Those aren't my pics, although in the past they could double for my plants, posted them for visual examples...
 
And ya they bounce back, but majority of the time in my experience, never the same, not even close. Thats why I say be preemptive with routine sprays starting from very young plants if broad mites have been a past problem or are known in your area....
 
Do you agree, once you see/notice broad mite damage its to late no matter what you do/use, you'll never get a timely full production harvest equivalent to a plant never infested with broad mites...?
 
jmo

acs1 said:

Do you agree, once you see/notice broad mite damage its to late no matter what you do/use, you'll never get a timely full production harvest equivalent to a plant never infested with broad mites...?

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I agree that by the time you realize that you have a problem, it's already a serious one.  You can take clues for preventative measure by observing other plants in your area, and by adopting a comprehensive pest management strategy.  Keep your weeds down, destroy known infestations, and be aware of symbiotic relationships with other pests. (such as whitefly/broadmite)
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I would caution people in most areas to be a little conservative about using our approaches.  Down here, we live in bug hell.  I've just never seen anything like it, anywhere else.  As you know, I've lived in every major region of the US, and this is just... well, it's shitty.  To have to resort to regimented spraying is not something that I've done anywhere else, and I really hate doing it.  Not to mention, it introduces new variables that can lead to issues. (having to worry about properly dosing/applying is a thing)
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Also, we have the luxury of 9 months unfettered growing, with a 3 month window of moderate slow down.  It's hard for me to say that we don't get timely harvest or production. 
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It's been my experience that those certain indoor growers have much more issues with mites than we do.  That's in part, because of what you can't see.  There are literally dozens of species of predatory mites at work, at any given time.  So, it's also good to take a really balanced approach to dealing with broad mites, in particular.  They are very good at hiding, and when you kill off their predators, and they have free reign, they can become a really stubborn problem, for a really long time.

S7, IMO, can't be to cautious when it comes to broad mites.
 
My suggestion above,  did say for people with past broad mites or in areas that broad mites are known to be. Its not for everyone, just those of us vulnerable to broad mites.
 
 Don't think it matters if you have California, Texas, or Louisiana broad mites, its all the same critter. have heard of them in other parts of our country. But ya sFl is a broad mite haven.
 
  I haven't had the problem this year because I do a routine 7-10 day neem routine. My neighbor just lost most of his garden to broard mites, and whats saved will not ever bounce back to normal.
  Like many other unwary of broad mites gardeners, we let them unknowingly linger for days or weeks trying to use nutrients, amendments , etc, not realizing until way way to late its a Broad mite pest problem. After helping my neighbor rid his garden of broad mites, the reason for this thread.
 
Having the luxury of being semi retired, get to spend lots of daily time in the garden. I observe/dole over my plants daily. I understand from experience with my scope,, what barely noticeable very slightly up turning slightly crinkled, slightly stiffer leafs are usually the harbinger of. I know the next stage is only a matter of maybe days or so away, new growth coming out smaller and smaller, then deformed and twisted new growth areas, buds...  it comes on slow/fast enough to be kind of sneaky.... If you wait till then, you might save the plant and get a low production of maybe slightly or probably greatly deformed pods, but thats about it. A year later that same broad mite toxin infused plant will still have the long haul post broad mite stunting and all that goes with it... It will never again be anything like a fresh healthy non broard mite toxin infused plant.
 
At least here in sFL wouldn't surprise me if a lot of local gardeners here never know what a real healthy pest free plant should look like if they don't routine spray...
 
   For me, routine spray is the only way to get totally healthy plants consistently. If i wait even until the very first sign of broad mite, no way to prevent what they already started, stunted growth, deformed foliage/fruit, low production.
 
I start loads of plants from seed and see exactly how healthy and prolific a good Chile plant is.
And unfortunately have learned the hard way what very slightly crinkled leafs mean. Or the slight under turning of a leaf or 2. Looking at those leafs under the scope has taught me about the first signs of broad mites that I never use to believe was anything other than maybe a nutrient or media problem.
 
jmo

My plants look the same