and add it 1:10 to your fermentation vessel along with unsulfured molasses from the grocery store according to the vid in the recipe and some good quality water and you basically have unlimited microbes. you can amplify the concentrate 10-20 times and then the working concentration is somewhere between 1:80 (label) and 1:40 that means that if you buy 1L you have enough product to make hundreds of gallons innoculant. the guy in the video recommends adding a bit of regular innocucor to your final blend.
the avocado farmer in the video reduced fertilizer use by 30% and increased yield by 20%.
The nice thing about using the commercial product is that you know exactly what you're getting from your tea as long as you keep your conditions consistent. You dont have that control when you make your own tea. Compost tea making is complicated and if you dont understand it well you're probably making a tea that is only giving you marginal benefits or even worse amplifying pathogens.
most traditional teas are aerobic because of the chance of amplifying pathogens. using this product as I have described will produce something that is SAFE. i do not recommend following traditional tea brewing methods and doing anaerobic fermentation- there isnt a lot known about it and what is known about it seems to suggest that you can create a breeding ground for nasty bacteria.
edits: some of the numbers were off the top of my head at work- edited to add recipe and other info
My humble advice on that matter, though... Cut the dose down to 1/3 strength, and apply it exactly twice as often, for container plants.
I don't know what the actual dosage is. Let's assume that it's 1 Tbsp/gal for in-ground plants, and then let's assume that it's applied once every 6 weeks. By my previous advice, I'd dose it at 1 tsp (1/3 of a Tbsp) per gallon, and I'd water it in every 2 weeks.
1/2 or 1/3 tsp 2x or 3x a week is what i do for my containers on the balcony all summer long. plants love it
How far away are your lights? I think part of my issue was my light was too far away. I'm going to add another cob or the new light bars for next year.
2-3ft above plumeria and peppers keeping lights at 60% power. 6ft from my orchids. the more lights you have in a given area gives you a better "photon blanket" and increases the efficiency of your light source. my cobs also have optics which reduces the light spread but increases the par closer in. it also protects the chips from residue and dust which I like. optics are good in areas that are not enclosed like a grow tent or a grow room with reflective walls, otherwise they are not necessarily needed.
another consideration with LEDs is that they do not often heat up your grow environment like other lights do- this means that you may be giving your plants a lot of light but the leaf temp is too low and so photosynthesis and transpiration are in conflict and you get poor growth from your plants. a lot of people use artificial lighting in the winter to keep their gardening hobby going through the offseason but i'm guilty of keeping the house cold at night and when im at work to save energy which slows my plants down significantly. i over watered my plants in the winter because even though my light was on max power the temps were low at night and for most of the day so i wasn't really driving optimum transpiration. if you have a cold growspace the heat from a HID lamp will out perform every day because of infared light, waste heat from the lamp and ballast. if your environment is not warm when the LEDs are on tropical plants will not be happy.
you'll have better results if you add additional lights, you will get a better photon blanket and the lights will penetrate the canopy better. even better would be to add 3 more so you have 4 lights evenly spaced.
A local composting place has a peat free mix. They call it SLC Grower's Mix in bags or Peat Free Mix if bought in bulk. They claim several local greenhouses and nurseries use it. Well, at $6 for a 2 cubic feet bag i had to grab a couple. If nothing else it will be a good soil amendment for the ground plot.
40% aged pine fines
20% rice hulls
a little fertilizer and pH buffer (starter charge they call it)
I filled a 7gal fabric pot with it. Added about 2cups of worm castings and a small handful of Alaska 4-6-6 fish and kelp pellets. Another smaller hard pot i used about the same mix but it also has a transplanted Vietnamese coriander with a good sized "ball" of Pro-Mx Ultimate still attached to the roots. I watered the snot out of it and it sure does drain fast. I filled the small hard pot until the saucer was full of water. That plant loves to stay wet.
I haven't moved a plant into the fabric pot yet. I want to see how damp it remains by around 3pm today...Roughly 24hrs since i filled it. I have a bale of Pro-Mix all purpose just in case. Im pretty certain a saucer will be a must for this mix once the temps climb. Its supposed to be around 90F today so i guess i will get a good idea.
this looks like a take on the famous gardenweb 5-1-1 mix. this mix will allow your plant to dry out faster and reduce perched water at the expense of having to water more often. if you can keep up and fertigate regularly but at a lower concentration you can achieve faster and better growth than a mix that takes longer to dry out and has more perched water.