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pests OK, need a nuclear option for Aphids!

Have been battling aphids all year with plants. Used neem didn't work. Have been using fruit and orchard spray for the past three weeks. Spraying every 7 days or so. An it doesn't seem to bee working. Certain plants (the most established show new leaf deformation and curl and a over abundance of ants) It's now in the triple digits here and we haven't had a good rain in probably 3 weeks. Don't know if that plays in the problem. But ever since living here ants have always been a battle keeping them out of the house. Haven't phsycaly seen any lately but ants are running a muck on the bigger healthier plants. An just need help with this issue.
 
Materials list:
Gasoline
Styrofoam
5 gallon bucket
Flame source...

Mix the gas and foam in a bucket until consistency is uniform... spread on affected areas. Carefully ignite. :flamethrower: :fireball:
 
I've found in the past that stripping the plants down to the stalks really seems to be the only way to get rid of em. Flush your soil. Do you use synthetic fertz?
 
I've found in the past that stripping the plants down to the stalks really seems to be the only way to get rid of em. Flush your soil. Do you use synthetic fertz?

I have been using synthetic fertilizer and I have never had too much of an aphid problem. It is true synthetic crops are more susceptible to pest attack due to thinner cell walls. Pottasium Silicate can be used to strengthen plant cell walls.

Try using soap and water. it wipes them out in one application. Use dish soap/water in a spray bottle.
 
http://www.google.co...&tbm=shop&tbo=u


I've tried everything else with no luck.
Soap n water will do it.. but depending on the amount of soap to water ratio, brands, etc..
You can burn and kill your plants with it.. I have 1st hand experience with both lol..

This spray will do it harm free.

Pepper guru recommended it to me. Works the first time you spray.
You can find it at nurseries and michlendons.. possibly HD or Lowes.

It also takes out fungal/bacteria problems along with many other insects and you can use it up until day of harvest

:cool:

Brandon
 
What about these guys?

24ff9fb7.jpg

With enough of a food source they will stick around for a while.
 
imidicloprod will kill every single aphid in 48 hours. i used it last year to mind blowing effect, this year i applied it in April as a preventive measure and haven't seen a single aphid this year.

imidicloprid+abamectin covers me completely, with a modicum of effort.

fruit and orchard spray, is what... permethrin and malathion? that will not kill sucking insects that are burried under the leaves, i tried malathion in concentrated doses last year. the best results i had were at best keeping their population from growing further.
you could try useing that spray along with an non ionic surfactant; it will apply more evenly, and stick to the leaves longer, but will not wipe out the entire population.

do yourself a favor and atleast read about it, your plants will thank you.
 
Praxxus Prune... Then compost Tea. New growth will come back faster due to the already large root system, and the Tea will make it go even faster.

A treatment of Tea now and then will protect it from future infestation. This method is near 100% effective and it is 100% organic meaning you will not loose any beneficial microbes.
Your soil will be alive and ready for explosive growth. This is not only a way to get rid of aphids but to encourage horizontal growth. I tried this on 3 plants this year and all three have pods already, even if they are not ripe yet.

This year I did this with
HomeDeopt plants, which were essentially aphid bombs.

Even some of the lightest pesticides will burn or stunt new growth. Dont be fooled, compost tea is some good shyt, and it will only make your plant grow faster and prevent pests and disease.

If you are interested PM me and I will give you a FULL tutorial.
 
fruit and orchard spray, is what... permethrin and malathion? that will not kill sucking insects that are burried under the leaves, i tried malathion in concentrated doses last year. the best results i had were at best keeping their population

Just a little correction on this. The active ingredients in it are "All natural ingredients: Pyrethrin and Sulfur" per the label and the MSDS: http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/msds/msds216.pdf

Not saying what is best... just correcting what's in it...

I've used it, and it worked... but only temporarily, like everything else I've tried so far...

It does say that it has to contact the critters to kill them tho... so have to spray all over, including under the leaves...
 
Thanks for all the info. Will look into some of the suggestions. Theses little aholes are getting on my nerves. Have used synthetic ferts just once tho. MG mixed half strength.

Do like the napalm idea. If I had more than one plant of the two main ones affected I'd love to just hear the sizzle and screams from these little boogers! .
 
What do ya'll using the Bonide fruit and orchard spray mix it at per gallon? The label gives some vague direction. An don't wanna mix to strong or damage the plants.
 
part of the systemic problem is the ants. Treat for the ants as well.

It depends. Most ants help the garden by aerating the soil because of the tunnels they make. They can kill off caterpillers as well.

If the colony is too close to the roots it can hurt the plant. Fire ants can eat the plant, and really hurt the roots.
 
Pyrethrin and Sulphur combo.

is the only nuclear option thats safe...works better than any other thing anyone else is suggesting as far as chemical type applications go. Trust me.

AACT IS THE BEST OPTION!

Agreed!
Except for these damn snails in front of my house. I have turned to rock salt around the base of my containers, and that seems to stop them.
 
Lady bugs OR pyrethrin are the best bets. Lighter sprays like soap don't cut them. I had an infestation on my pepper seedlings in the house in 2010 and nothing got rid of them. I ordered lady bugs and released them, in the house, and they took care of it. I get them heavy on my lupines and the lady bugs seemed to fly away but pyrethrin is the only thing that kills them. However it must be done weekly.
Some people say excessive nitrogen attracts aphids to plants growing too bushy but I think that is crap. They like what they like. Survival of the species and all.
 
Lady bugs OR pyrethrin are the best bets. Lighter sprays like soap don't cut them. I had an infestation on my pepper seedlings in the house in 2010 and nothing got rid of them. I ordered lady bugs and released them, in the house, and they took care of it. I get them heavy on my lupines and the lady bugs seemed to fly away but pyrethrin is the only thing that kills them. However it must be done weekly.
Some people say excessive nitrogen attracts aphids to plants growing too bushy but I think that is crap. They like what they like. Survival of the species and all.

Yea its strange I have heard of soap not working for many? I use it everytime with 100% success. Even on house plants, just had a rose bush infected, hit it with dish soap/water and the next day they were gone without a trace? :P
 
imidicloprod will kill every single aphid in 48 hours. i used it last year to mind blowing effect, this year i applied it in April as a preventive measure and haven't seen a single aphid this year.

imidicloprid+abamectin covers me completely, with a modicum of effort.

fruit and orchard spray, is what... permethrin and malathion? that will not kill sucking insects that are burried under the leaves, i tried malathion in concentrated doses last year. the best results i had were at best keeping their population from growing further.
you could try useing that spray along with an non ionic surfactant; it will apply more evenly, and stick to the leaves longer, but will not wipe out the entire population.

do yourself a favor and atleast read about it, your plants will thank you.

Imidacloprid, as a systemic insecticide, has a 21 day wait time for harvesting peppers after spraying. Also can only be applied once per year.



FRUITING VEGETABLES

Eggplant, Ground cherry, Okra, Pepper (including bell, chili, cooking, pimento and sweet)
Tomato, Pepinos


Aphids, Colorado potato beetle, Flea beetles, Leafhoppers, Thrips (foliage feeding thrips,
only), Whiteflies

Restrictions
Pre-harvest Interval: Do not harvest fruit until at least 21 days after application.
Do not make more than one application per year.
 
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