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20gal brutes

CAPCOM

CAPCOM

I have read post after post about the larger the container the larger the plant and hopefully the harvest. I am thinking about an experiment utilizing 2- 20 gal brute plastic trash cans. probably using miracle grow medium, peat moss, cocoa peat, vermiculite, and or perlite. The largest container I grew in last years was a 3 gal growers pots and did fairly well with them. It wasn't a bad season being that it was my first growing super hots and I got a late start in late May early June. Most pods turned while indoors, but I did got some pods.
 
I was thinking of going with a Carolina reaper and a brown moruga as the test subjects. I will also be growing them in pots as well as in ground to provide a comparison model.
 
This will be the first time I have attempted to grow container ala abundance.
Any recommendations and or other considerations I should make note of before starting?
 
Make sure the container is well draining and you will be fine. Brutes are expensive though, so I personally would feel weird drilling big holes all over them. For my money, I'd stick to fabric pots. But there's no reason it won't work.
 
SichuaneseFoodFan said:
Make sure the container is well draining and you will be fine. Brutes are expensive though, so I personally would feel weird drilling big holes all over them. For my money, I'd stick to fabric pots. But there's no reason it won't work.
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I wont have to purchase any as I have two that I could use on hand. And I wont put any holes in them, rather I would probably incorporate some form of a siphon or hose pump to a bilge area in the bottom 3-4 inches. The way I see it, if I were to dig the dept of the trash can in my garden, I would probably be into the mud. after all, its an experiment. I had considered fabric pots, but they are only good for outdoor use. the plastic growers pots can at least be used indoors where I plan to maintain a decent grow all year.
 
Proud Marine Dad said:
I bought eight of the 17 gallon tubs with rope handles on them and they were only $6 each at Kmart. :)
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I am going to have to look into that, but most of the grow will go outdoors into the garden.
 
Interesting approach - I hope it works for you. For what it's worth, I do use and prefer fabric pots in my all-indoor grow. Just curious - what makes you say they wouldn't work indoors?
 
SichuaneseFoodFan said:
Interesting approach - I hope it works for you. For what it's worth, I do use and prefer fabric pots in my all-indoor grow. Just curious - what makes you say they wouldn't work indoors?
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I guess I may have misspoke, they probably would. I just envision them leaking all over the floor at watering time. Just chalk it up to unfamiliarity.
 
Yes they can be trickier in that regard. I use blumats so I don't have to worry about that particular problem (just other, more serious problems, like runaway cones - which thankfully I've never experienced).
 
SichuaneseFoodFan said:
Yes they can be trickier in that regard. I use blumats so I don't have to worry about that particular problem (just other, more serious problems, like runaway cones - which thankfully I've never experienced).
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runaway cones?
 
 
I also could be wrong in my thinking but, wouldn't fabric pots in an indoor grow scenario increase the level of humidity, at the same time require more periodic watering because of the increased pot surface area, all of which is capable of wicking moisture away from the substrate?
 
I don't know about all that. I've gotten the best results I've ever had with my most recent set of plants, where I did use fabric pots. But I changed so much I can't attribute it to anything in particular.
 
I have the trash cans 80% full of potting soil from last years grow. I decided to use the old miracle grow because all the growth enhancers have been used up and I will be able to add whatever I choose without the fear of double dosing or worse. As I stated previously, I will not be punching holes in the bottom rather I will attempt to install a sump area where excess water can be siphoned off. There is still the better part of a month before last frost to get this thing put together.
 
I would say that the production from your peppers would depend on a couple of things. 20 gallons is a big pot. For the most part, the bigger the pot the bigger the plant, but it also depends on the length of your season. I don't know anything about your grow season, but the peppers selected are slow growing. My growing season is approximately 90 days. I had tried cayenne's in 5 gallon buckets. I had decent sized plants, but nothing spectacular. The scorpions are about double that time in terms of getting ripe pods. The Are you planning on growing the plants indoors when the season turns? If not you may end up with a decent size plant, but little else. That said, I've been wrong many times before and it's your dime so why not? :D give it yer all!

Neil
 
I would say that the production from your peppers would depend on a couple of things. 20 gallons is a big pot. For the most part, the bigger the pot the bigger the plant, but it also depends on the length of your season. I don't know anything about your grow season, but the peppers selected are slow growing. My growing season is approximately 90 days. I had tried cayenne's in 5 gallon buckets. I had decent sized plants, but nothing spectacular. The scorpions are about double that time in terms of getting ripe pods. Are you planning on growing the plants indoors when the season turns? If not you may end up with a decent size plant, but little else. That said, I've been wrong many times before and it's your dime so why not? :D give it yer all!

Neil
 
HP22BH said:
I have the trash cans 80% full of potting soil from last years grow. I decided to use the old miracle grow because all the growth enhancers have been used up and I will be able to add whatever I choose without the fear of double dosing or worse. As I stated previously, I will not be punching holes in the bottom rather I will attempt to install a sump area where excess water can be siphoned off. There is still the better part of a month before last frost to get this thing put together.
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I have thought about doing this myself, and tried it. But if you were open to a word of advice... (I hate pressuming people want advice without them asking, so I apologize in advance otherwise)
 
Unless you thoroughly flushed the soil on purpose, you may be suprised how many left over salts are still in the soil from regular watering. If you have not already... I would suggest to run at least a few gallons of water per gallon of soil completely through the medium at one time. This will ensure the salt build up won't be a problem. And it may not be either way, but it can't hurt to be a little more sure.
 
You can check, just accumulate a good 2 cups worth of run-off and measure the ppms, but you'll need an EC meter.
 
I've had my run around with soil and nutes and pushing plants to their limits through years of "other" growing on the more medical side of things. Once you thoroughly flush the soil it is as good as having a neutral medium such as coco or rockwool.
 
I would also recommend (for the finer things in life) to mix up some test nutes and "feed" the soil and measure that runoff for ppms and ph if you have the ability.
 
 
---Sorry to change subjects, just saw something that I have had lots of experience with. And all of this may not be necessary, but I grew up on growing under the theory that every little bit along they way counts and adds up to the best possible finish. Though I like growing peppers because I can relax with them, they are very easy to grow plants and can handle a lot.
 
mrgrowguy said:
 
I have thought about doing this myself, and tried it. But if you were open to a word of advice... (I hate pressuming people want advice without them asking, so I apologize in advance otherwise)
 
Unless you thoroughly flushed the soil on purpose, you may be suprised how many left over salts are still in the soil from regular watering. If you have not already... I would suggest to run at least a few gallons of water per gallon of soil completely through the medium at one time. This will ensure the salt build up won't be a problem. And it may not be either way, but it can't hurt to be a little more sure.
 
You can check, just accumulate a good 2 cups worth of run-off and measure the ppms, but you'll need an EC meter.
 
I've had my run around with soil and nutes and pushing plants to their limits through years of "other" growing on the more medical side of things. Once you thoroughly flush the soil it is as good as having a neutral medium such as coco or rockwool.
 
I would also recommend (for the finer things in life) to mix up some test nutes and "feed" the soil and measure that runoff for ppms and ph if you have the ability.
 
 
---Sorry to change subjects, just saw something that I have had lots of experience with. And all of this may not be necessary, but I grew up on growing under the theory that every little bit along they way counts and adds up to the best possible finish. Though I like growing peppers because I can relax with them, they are very easy to grow plants and can handle a lot.
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I appreciate all advice whether I think its useful or not, if I don't use it, maybe someone else reading this topic will and that what its really all about (this forum) right?
 
Regarding your suggestions specific though, This is my second year growing super hots and l just do not have any test kits or equipment to break down the soil contents as you described. It is last years soil mix so I am pretty sure it has been depleted to some extent either from usage by the plants or all the rain and manual watering.
 
The brutes are filled and the test specimens are in place as they have been for a couple weeks now. They seem stable and are probably establishing their root systems without limitations. the brown moruga is already putting out buds with the reaper a little behind. These two plants are survivors of the aphid infestation and were chosen for the project because, despite the foliar damage, their root systems were advanced enough to provide the chance of success while not losing the time new germinations would have taken. I also opted to not place any drainage holes in the container. It is my theory that due to the size of this container and volume of growing medium drainage is not needed and the system will never become overloaded. We'll see.
 
Pics to follow
 
Another concern that I could see becoming a problem, Is height. By the time you get a garbage can full and then a 30" plant on top seems to me I'd be running out of head room.
 
MrBubblehead said:
Another concern that I could see becoming a problem, Is height. By the time you get a garbage can full and then a 30" plant on top seems to me I'd be running out of head room.
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Headroom?  You lost me.
 
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