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3 gallon maximum
- Thread starter Swartmamba
- Start date
I've been growing in buckets for several years, both 5 gal. and 3.5 gal. (at one time approximately 50 of each size) I've compared same species from same seed source with identical media mix,fert's, feeding and watering schedule.
My observation is that the 3.5 gal get root bound shortly after the first pods begin ripening, and from that point on,the size of the pods are noticeably smaller. The plant continues to grow well, and the number of pods remains consistent with the plants in the 5 gal. buckets.
I had the same experience with tomato plants in the 3.5 gal. buckets.Plus I think the nearly constant watering in the summer heat of Kentucky affects the flavor of the tomato.
As a result, I have discarded most of my 3.5, and gone to the 5 gal size exclusively.
And as long as Chic-Fil-A continues getting their pickle slices in 5 gal. buckets, I have an on-going source of free growing containers.
CM
My observation is that the 3.5 gal get root bound shortly after the first pods begin ripening, and from that point on,the size of the pods are noticeably smaller. The plant continues to grow well, and the number of pods remains consistent with the plants in the 5 gal. buckets.
I had the same experience with tomato plants in the 3.5 gal. buckets.Plus I think the nearly constant watering in the summer heat of Kentucky affects the flavor of the tomato.
As a result, I have discarded most of my 3.5, and gone to the 5 gal size exclusively.
And as long as Chic-Fil-A continues getting their pickle slices in 5 gal. buckets, I have an on-going source of free growing containers.
CM
Actually, I discovered that most restaurants that serve pickles have them delivered in 5 gallon food grade buckets. I have about 20 or so that are a bright yellow and a few white, that came from a couple local Italian eateries. Considering the temps you live with in Louisiana, (I lived in the Alexandria area when I was in the Air Force) they might work out better for you, than the green color of the Chic-fil-a buckets which definitely heat up more than yellow or white.LS929 said:
hey i said i would update this thread. i'll probably update again in a month. i think the 3 gal will be smaller overall, we'll see.juanitos said:
The 3 gallon plants are behind still my guess they are just now filled up the container with roots and are now putting out lots of flowers now.
The yaki brown is about as tall as the plants in the 5 gallon bags. The hab paper lantern has about 10 pods on him ripe.
The white hab and prik chi faa have stayed smaller at around 2 ft. i don't think i separated the root balls enough when i transplanted so they are taking longer for the roots to spread out.
july 1
july 24th
paper lantern hab
reaper
yaki brown
2 moruga, 2 small hab white on right
I think you will get tired of constantly watering IF you get them to a good size. Right now even in 10 gallons of soil I am watering Chinense plants daily and it's not even very hot outside here, only got up to 80F yesterday.
Back when I had some in 3 gallons they needed watered 3 times a day in August! Now I only use smaller than 5 gallon for annuums which don't lose water as fast due to fewer stomata, and only if I run out of larger containers, am starting something late/last so it wasn't expected to grow as large by end of season.
Back when I had some in 3 gallons they needed watered 3 times a day in August! Now I only use smaller than 5 gallon for annuums which don't lose water as fast due to fewer stomata, and only if I run out of larger containers, am starting something late/last so it wasn't expected to grow as large by end of season.
Hate to quote myself LOL but i've already posted on this matter:
I believe that many of you have never been SERIOUSLY space constrainted (good for you!) so everyone tell to use 5gal min for decent results but it can be done with way less...
Good luck
Datil
Datil said:In my first "serious" season, due to space constraints, i used 5L and 6.5L containers (1.32 gal-1.72 gal) and harvested enough pods to keep me busy all the winter
As long as you give enough water and ferts (when needed), you'll be fine. Small pots are also pretty easy to move inside in case of cold snaps.
Obviously bigger pots will give you bigger yields and long season varieties (like almost all the superhots) love some extra space for sure.
Good luck, you have a nice patio there!
Datil
I believe that many of you have never been SERIOUSLY space constrainted (good for you!) so everyone tell to use 5gal min for decent results but it can be done with way less...
Good luck
Datil
MN, I had a lot to write but it wasn't worth the legal hassles regarding the BULL SHIT people are spewing about air pots.
Normally people would have brains and realize that if your pot dries out the soil then you have LESS, not more, viable soil the plant can use.
Only through internet marketing and nonsense, could anyone ever assume that this BAD situation could somehow be spun into the ludicrous lie that it's a good situation. Air pots are a sick joke played on the ignorant. If you believe in them then I have some beach front property in TN I'd love to sell to you.
Normally people would have brains and realize that if your pot dries out the soil then you have LESS, not more, viable soil the plant can use.
Only through internet marketing and nonsense, could anyone ever assume that this BAD situation could somehow be spun into the ludicrous lie that it's a good situation. Air pots are a sick joke played on the ignorant. If you believe in them then I have some beach front property in TN I'd love to sell to you.
I have to disagree with you , for many years I have grown with normal pots and air prune pots for tomatoes, cucumbers and now this year peppers and have noticed a serious improvement on root mass in regards to the air prune pots having vice the normal pots NOT having ...Dave2000 said:
By no means am I going to go back and forth with you to prove otherwise cause I have seen the proof first hand and doesn't matter to me either way , but just wanted to put that out there that all air prune pot users are not "ignorant"...
I also would like to add I have never purchased an air prune pot, I have made my own so maybe that's why they work for me, who knows...
That post looks familiarDatil said:
I've been growing in 3 gallon pots this year, and while they're putting out a ton of peppers the plants would appear to have stopped growing. I don't expect them to get much bigger, and I suppose the yield from them is going to be relatively limited as well. I'll take some pictures tonight of them and post in this thread.
thats nothing.Dave2000 said:
my rockwool slabs required like... 7 or 8 waterings per day. only like a coke can's worth of water at a time tho.
it would literally be impossible without an irrigation system.
for sure, something to seriously consider when going with the small pots.
I guess that'd be necessary in Houston, right? I mean...what happened to all this talk about peppers liking being dry and hot etc etc. All I hear around here is multiple waterings per day...I don't get it!
I think what you see is growers letting them dry out to stress the plant to create more heat from the pods...as far as my peppers they definetly don't like being "dry"....I have to water more then usual because I use a promix HP based medium with other good stuff mixed in but my point it is that it drains really good, almost to good because like I said I find myself having to water more frequently especially as the plants get bigger...the good thing though is when it rains I don't have to water about my plants being over-watered or having "wet feet"...
AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
OK....my opinion on container size comes from my experience over the years...
My mantra has always been "healthy rootball, healthy plant"
I am a firm believer in a good compact rootball...not rootbound, but a good tight ball of roots....in standard containers, once the roots hit the side/bottom of the pot, they tend to "snake" around the outside edges of the containers...I know that in grow bags the principle is when the roots hit the air, they branch out and make more roots....however, this being true, there is still a limited space for the rootball...
I had to preface what I am going to say with the above so you could try and understand my thinking...
the more you pot up to larger size pots, the better growth/health is going to be seen in the plant....I, personally plant up 3 times a year and if I didn't grow so many plants that may be 4-5 times if you include overwintering..it gets expensive with the larger containers because of the cost of soil/fertilize....when I overwinter, I pull the plant out of the container, trim the above ground and below ground portion to be the same size and pot down one size..then as the season progresses I start at where I left off...I usually overwinter in at least 1-2 gallon pots so in the spring when plant out comes (or maybe even before depending on whether I have "hibernated' my overwinters or grown them through winter) I will go to a 5 gallon then a 7 and 10 thru the season...the very large containers are for 3rd year and beyond plants....
size containers I use
Seed Starting Tray (72 cell)
3 inch square containers
6 inch round containers
5 gallon containers
7 gallon containers
10 gallon containers
25 gallon containers
take this with a grain of salt since each of us grow differently....this may not work for you or it may be too labor intensive....when you grow 200+ plants a year, transplanting begins to take up a lot of time and like I said, the cost is magnified greatly...
My mantra has always been "healthy rootball, healthy plant"
I am a firm believer in a good compact rootball...not rootbound, but a good tight ball of roots....in standard containers, once the roots hit the side/bottom of the pot, they tend to "snake" around the outside edges of the containers...I know that in grow bags the principle is when the roots hit the air, they branch out and make more roots....however, this being true, there is still a limited space for the rootball...
I had to preface what I am going to say with the above so you could try and understand my thinking...
the more you pot up to larger size pots, the better growth/health is going to be seen in the plant....I, personally plant up 3 times a year and if I didn't grow so many plants that may be 4-5 times if you include overwintering..it gets expensive with the larger containers because of the cost of soil/fertilize....when I overwinter, I pull the plant out of the container, trim the above ground and below ground portion to be the same size and pot down one size..then as the season progresses I start at where I left off...I usually overwinter in at least 1-2 gallon pots so in the spring when plant out comes (or maybe even before depending on whether I have "hibernated' my overwinters or grown them through winter) I will go to a 5 gallon then a 7 and 10 thru the season...the very large containers are for 3rd year and beyond plants....
size containers I use
Seed Starting Tray (72 cell)
3 inch square containers
6 inch round containers
5 gallon containers
7 gallon containers
10 gallon containers
25 gallon containers
take this with a grain of salt since each of us grow differently....this may not work for you or it may be too labor intensive....when you grow 200+ plants a year, transplanting begins to take up a lot of time and like I said, the cost is magnified greatly...
Dave2000 said:
Have you ever used an air-pot? lol
The whole concept behind an air-pot is that it does dry out. Most plants like to have their roots alternatingly soaked and dried out. This is why when planting in the ground it is best to make a raised bed or mound--- So that the roots are able to dry out between waterings.... this is extremely important for ideal metabolic activity in many plants.
AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
the principle of an airpot is sound in that it causes the roots to branch...however, your limiting factor whether you use an air pot or standard container is the size of the container and rootball...period...
And that is why large air pots represent the best of both worlds 
