Acclimation causing yellowing?

kartupelis

kartupelis

About a week ago I had to bring my pepper plants with me to a different city and I put them outside. Previously they were growing on a southern windowsill and were doing really good. Now one of them is about to "kick the bucket" it's living in. (I may have killed someone with that pun) 
The pepper in question is a Habanero that's growing in a Kratky style bucket. It had some algae growing in the reservoir (very minimal) and I transplanted it to a non-translucent bucket with a lid. Now it has some algae grow in it also.... HOW!? And how can I get rid of it?
The habanero started to yellow and shed it's leaves from the bottom and is moving up to the top. Now the top (not new) leaves are having brown spots and showing yellowing.
 
The nutrient solution is the same as always.
The amount is at the same level as it was before - not sogging up in the cup.
The amount of daylight should be the same or slightly more - I put it in a greenhouse because the the temps are getting lower and the greenhouse makes it more stable and warm + it isn't too bright in there.
 
The Jalapeno next to it is in soil and is doing great apart for some minimal yellowing on the bottom leaves.  At first I thought it was just acclimation shock and it will get better after it gets used to the new environment but the hab is starting to look more and more as if it won't make it.
 
I want to keep it alive. Is there any advice? I can't get any interesting seeds apart from some Cayennes and Jalapenos and shipping can get a bit too much for my student wallet. I've grown attached to this plant which may have been my mistake.
 
If pictures are needed I'll post as soon as I can.
 
Most often, especially for young plants and for newbie growers, yellowing leaves with the signs you describe are due to overwatering. Chile plants like things to be somewhat dry - more so than you can tell by sticking your finger into the dirt. Try letting them dry out a little more between waterings and see if they don't start putting out new, greener growth.
 
geeme said:
Most often, especially for young plants and for newbie growers, yellowing leaves with the signs you describe are due to overwatering. Chile plants like things to be somewhat dry - more so than you can tell by sticking your finger into the dirt. Try letting them dry out a little more between waterings and see if they don't start putting out new, greener growth.
Click to expand...
 
It's in a Krtaky bucket - in water nutrient solution. Should I just dry it out?
As I mentioned - it's not too much - not touching the cup as it always has.
 
put some pics up.

that sounds like classic nitrogen deficiency not over watering.

over watering kills by encouraging bacteria and fungi growth by depriving oxygen etc.
over watering can also runnoff all of your nutrients if they are of the water soluble type(hydro ferts), but thats not over watering symptom, thats a deficiency symptom caused by over watering.

nitrogen is mobile, so it moves from old to new leaves. i take it you are new to growing stuff, but this is quite common amongst alot of vegetables. they yellow from the bottom up in a uniform manner, and at some point the damaged yellow yeaves will drop off the plant around where the petiole is.

how much nitrogen do you have in your fertilizer solutiion.it should be around 200 mg/l ideally and no less than 100mg/l.
 
queequeg152 said:
put some pics up.

that sounds like classic nitrogen deficiency not over watering.

over watering kills by encouraging bacteria and fungi growth by depriving oxygen etc.
over watering can also runnoff all of your nutrients if they are of the water soluble type(hydro ferts), but thats not over watering symptom, thats a deficiency symptom caused by over watering.

nitrogen is mobile, so it moves from old to new leaves. i take it you are new to growing stuff, but this is quite common amongst alot of vegetables. they yellow from the bottom up in a uniform manner, and at some point the damaged yellow yeaves will drop off the plant around where the petiole is.

how much nitrogen do you have in your fertilizer solutiion.it should be around 200 mg/l ideally and no less than 100mg/l.
Click to expand...
 
I thought so too - the N problem. Up until the transfer to the other city it did well growing in the regular liquid fertilizer + water. It seems as tho the transfer itself is the thing that's killing it because everything (except it being outside) is the same as before when it was growing fine.
 
I'm using a (2,4-0-7,2) where N is 2,4% of the 500ml bottle...if that makes sense and helps.
 
As I mentioned before - it was doing fine up until the transfer and now it's dying on me. I don't know what to do but wait and hope.
 
The seedlings I gave to my relatives in the same city behaved the same way but some stabilized and the top leaves remained and the plant grew further. I was hoping that my plant would survive also but now it's starting to look grim.
 
ok so it was doing fine before, but that was a smaller plant using less nutrients, growing slower with less sunlight exposure. i think you need to forget about that because it PROBABLY has very little bearing on why your plants are yellowing right now.
 
so are you using  commas as a decimal place?
 
yours = (2.4-0-7.2)?
 
ive seen that before and i understand it, i just want to make sure... because if those are not decimal equivalents it makes 0 sense to me. that said, NPK by itself means very little, its just a ratio of nitrogen etc. you need to take a pic of the back of the bottle or somethign so we can see what form this nitrogen is... ammonia? urea? or nitrate? even nitric acid?
 
ok so how much of this fertilizer are you using? as in how many ml fert to liters of water?
 
is this an organic fertilizer?
 
idk what a kratkey bucket is so maby explain that a bit, and again upload some pics if you can.
 
what sort of nitrogen is this? is is urea? is it ammonical? or is it nitrate?
 
this is a single bottle fertilizer solution? are you providing other nutrients such as sulfate, calcium etc?
 
Here are the pictures of the labels:
 
vgK0HKh.jpg
 
cipZYLF.jpg

 
As far as I know the NPK ratio stands for the percentage of given nutrients from the whole solution. So, 2.4% of 500ml = 12ml of Nitrogen (in diferent forms). The label suggests 30ml of solution per 10l of water. I was giving it that this whole time and it was fine.
 
Here are the pictures of the plant before. It was growing in a jar that was covered by a sheet of paper.
56xVCfb.jpg

 
Here it is now (transplanted to a bucket):
g220MIM.jpg
 
VmDdJyi.jpg
 
3UxfhKJ.jpg

 
I cleaned up the algae today by hosing it down. I can not comprehend why is it still growing because the lid is sealed and the bucket itself isn't translucent. Should I just transplant it into soil like the Jalapeno next to it?
 
JcfAmun.jpg
 
sI9LF47.jpg
 
yVLVluy.jpg

 
This one doesn't appear to have much transplant-shock or acclimation shock other than a little yellowing. I grew this one in pure soil from the start.
 
Something that works semi-decently in killing off algae without harming the plant is to dip the roots in a light h2o2 mix (hydrogen peroxide). I even go as far as to add a super tiny amount of h2o2 to all of my reservoirs. I do this as a preventative measure. But keep in mind that h2o2 also does a number on beneficial bacteria. Not that you would be killing everything with just a light mixture, but it is good to know that it kills the good stuff as well as the bad stuff, but doesn't hurt the plant/roots at all as long as the mixture is diluted enough.
 
I usually use only about 1 tsp per gallon for treating and half that or less for preventative means.
 
 
I hope this helps in some way or another.
 
 
.
 
geeme said:
Most often, especially for young plants and for newbie growers, yellowing leaves with the signs you describe are due to overwatering. Chile plants like things to be somewhat dry - more so than you can tell by sticking your finger into the dirt. Try letting them dry out a little more between waterings and see if they don't start putting out new, greener growth.
Click to expand...
 
Its the hardest thing to do as a new pepper enthusiast is to try and underwater instead of overwatering.  
 
wait so this is 2.4+2.2+.2 nitrogen not 2.4?
 
i dont understand that bottle?
 
how can it have almost 5% combines nitrogen but be (2.4-0-7.2)?
 
mrgrowguy said:
Something that works semi-decently in killing off algae without harming the plant is to dip the roots in a light h2o2 mix (hydrogen peroxide). I even go as far as to add a super tiny amount of h2o2 to all of my reservoirs. I do this as a preventative measure. But keep in mind that h2o2 also does a number on beneficial bacteria. Not that you would be killing everything with just a light mixture, but it is good to know that it kills the good stuff as well as the bad stuff, but doesn't hurt the plant/roots at all as long as the mixture is diluted enough.
 
I usually use only about 1 tsp per gallon for treating and half that or less for preventative means.
 
 
I hope this helps in some way or another.
 
 
.
Click to expand...
 
Is there any percentage of the delution of the H2O2? I can not legally get pure or high purity hidrogenperoxide and only some 1-5% of it. Is that enough to dose it at your given amount? Thank you for the info. I'll most definitely add some to my solution.
 
queequeg152 said:
gimme the density of the bottle.
 
just get the total weight of the contents of the bottle divided by the volume of the bottle
Click to expand...
 
It's 500ml and the mass of it is undefinable now because I do not have weights and a volume cup on me. *sigh*
I think it's strongly resembles water to a little amount of minerals.
 
 
 
Yet. Is there anything definitive to say about my plant? Is there anything I can do besides treat the algae? Should I transplant it to soil or keep it and wait?  

mrgrowguy said:
Something that works semi-decently in killing off algae without harming the plant is to dip the roots in a light h2o2 mix (hydrogen peroxide). I even go as far as to add a super tiny amount of h2o2 to all of my reservoirs. I do this as a preventative measure. But keep in mind that h2o2 also does a number on beneficial bacteria. Not that you would be killing everything with just a light mixture, but it is good to know that it kills the good stuff as well as the bad stuff, but doesn't hurt the plant/roots at all as long as the mixture is diluted enough.
 
I usually use only about 1 tsp per gallon for treating and half that or less for preventative means.
 
 
I hope this helps in some way or another.
 
 
.
Click to expand...
 
Is there any percentage of the delution of the H2O2? I can not legally get pure or high purity hidrogenperoxide and only some 1-5% of it. Is that enough to dose it at your given amount? Thank you for the info. I'll most definitely add some to my solution.
 
kartupelis said:
 
Is there any percentage of the delution of the H2O2? I can not legally get pure or high purity hidrogenperoxide and only some 1-5% of it. Is that enough to dose it at your given amount? Thank you for the info. I'll most definitely add some to my solution.
 
 
Click to expand...
 
 
Here is what I use (says 3%):
label.jpg
 
kartupelis said:
 
Yet. Is there anything definitive to say about my plant? Is there anything I can do besides treat the algae? Should I transplant it to soil or keep it and wait?  
Click to expand...
 
ill have to go back and look for this document, but im pretty sure you cannot calculate mg/l(PPM) from % by volume, only from % by weight or % by volume + the weight of salts? 
 
for dry ferts, the NPK is % by mass, for bottled its % by volume... or atleast thats what i recall being the case.
 
ill look into this when i get a chance. im at work till around 8.
 
 
 
your plant does not look that bad to be honest.
 
my neglected plants look that way.
 
algae is not a huge issue. its just there to eat your fertilizer solution. slimes are fairly serious however. slimy films on roots or clinging to the buckets could be bacterial in nature and are worth worrying about, not a bit of algae.
 
peroxide is a very strong oxidizer, but has very little residual value. i use and reccomend bleach for disinfection as its a much weaker oxidizer, but it remains in solution for hours not seconds or minutes.
 
i only chlorinate to prevent blockages in my drip emitters and to protect filters and screens etc, not to protect plants.  plants dont really care about a bit of algae.
 
if you are concerned about the algae id suggest removing the plant and cleaning the container.
 
queequeg152 said:
 
ill have to go back and look for this document, but im pretty sure you cannot calculate mg/l(PPM) from % by volume, only from % by weight or % by volume + the weight of salts? 
 
for dry ferts, the NPK is % by mass, for bottled its % by volume... or atleast thats what i recall being the case.
 
ill look into this when i get a chance. im at work till around 8.
 
 
 
your plant does not look that bad to be honest.
 
my neglected plants look that way.
 
algae is not a huge issue. its just there to eat your fertilizer solution. slimes are fairly serious however. slimy films on roots or clinging to the buckets could be bacterial in nature and are worth worrying about, not a bit of algae.
 
peroxide is a very strong oxidizer, but has very little residual value. i use and reccomend bleach for disinfection as its a much weaker oxidizer, but it remains in solution for hours not seconds or minutes.
 
i only chlorinate to prevent blockages in my drip emitters and to protect filters and screens etc, not to protect plants.  plants dont really care about a bit of algae.
 
if you are concerned about the algae id suggest removing the plant and cleaning the container.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks! The camera doesn't capture much of the yellow of the plant (or maybe I'm waaay too paranoid). I cleaned it today with a hose and I'm planning on adding some hydrogenperoxide sometime soon. 
 
can you google the fertilizer name or something?
 
maby the manufacturer has that data somewhere
 
i cant read that label well enough to find any manufacturer.
 
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