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aphids

I used to have problems with aphids every once in a while. Last year I set up a 55 gallon plastic drum up on 4 courses of concrete blocks, and put in a stem that would connect to small spaghetti tubing with mini valves which made a gravity fed drip irrigation system. Sometimes I have to go out of town for a few days and last year I was asked to make a presentation at a horticultural conference. At that time, I was having to water my plants every day. (they are in containers) This way I can water my pepper plants for up to 9 days without being there. About 3 years ago I wrote this article for the journal of The Cycad Society:
http://www.cycad.org/documents/Broome-Coffee-2007.pdf
which was about killing the Asian scale that has now killed at least a billion dollars worth of sagos in Florida alone. If you look at the article, you will see my blue barrel that I use to brew, what I will call in this post "coffee juice" For cycads and the other plants I am growing, I am using the juice as a direct contact spray to kill all kinds of scales, aphids, mealy bugs, white flies and spider mites. In this case I added about 4 gallons of coffee juice to my other barrel every other time I filled it up to water my peppers. All last year, none of my plants were bothered by aphids, or any other insect, for that matter.
So this year I tried something else. I mixed the used coffee grounds about 10% of the volume of soil and for the plants I did this to, I have not had aphids on the plants. Earlier this year, I heard about the Butch T Scorpion peppers, so obviously, I had to find some plants and buy them. I bought a couple of those as well as another scorpion and some Naga Morich plants. I don't know if the plants had eggs on them or what, but in no time at all, every single plant was covered with aphids. I had not mixed the soil with these like I did with my Bhut Jolokias held over from last season. Instead of spraying the plants, I thought it would be good for an experiment. (I experiment a lot) I mixed up an inch of the used grounds in the top 3 inches of the soil and watered it in real well. It took about 3 1/2 weeks, but to my amazement, just last week, I watched every single aphid dry up and die over a 3 day period. What has happened is that the pepper plants systemically drew in the alkaloids from the grounds and it either killed the aphids directly, or made the plant unpalatable so the aphids died from starvation. I have already noticed that using the grounds will kill scales for 4 1/2 months after an application, so I am assuming right now that the grounds will make my plants immune to predation for about the same amount of time. I will of course watch what happens and note how well this works out in the long run. Anyway, I hope this is of interest to some of you. This is my first post on this forum. I look forward to talking about growing hot peppers more in the future. Tom
 
I used to have problems with aphids every once in a while. Last year I set up a 55 gallon plastic drum up on 4 courses of concrete blocks, and put in a stem that would connect to small spaghetti tubing with mini valves which made a gravity fed drip irrigation system. Sometimes I have to go out of town for a few days and last year I was asked to make a presentation at a horticultural conference. At that time, I was having to water my plants every day. (they are in containers) This way I can water my pepper plants for up to 9 days without being there. About 3 years ago I wrote this article for the journal of The Cycad Society:
http://www.cycad.org/documents/Broome-Coffee-2007.pdf
which was about killing the Asian scale that has now killed at least a billion dollars worth of sagos in Florida alone. If you look at the article, you will see my blue barrel that I use to brew, what I will call in this post "coffee juice" For cycads and the other plants I am growing, I am using the juice as a direct contact spray to kill all kinds of scales, aphids, mealy bugs, white flies and spider mites. In this case I added about 4 gallons of coffee juice to my other barrel every other time I filled it up to water my peppers. All last year, none of my plants were bothered by aphids, or any other insect, for that matter.
So this year I tried something else. I mixed the used coffee grounds about 10% of the volume of soil and for the plants I did this to, I have not had aphids on the plants. Earlier this year, I heard about the Butch T Scorpion peppers, so obviously, I had to find some plants and buy them. I bought a couple of those as well as another scorpion and some Naga Morich plants. I don't know if the plants had eggs on them or what, but in no time at all, every single plant was covered with aphids. I had not mixed the soil with these like I did with my Bhut Jolokias held over from last season. Instead of spraying the plants, I thought it would be good for an experiment. (I experiment a lot) I mixed up an inch of the used grounds in the top 3 inches of the soil and watered it in real well. It took about 3 1/2 weeks, but to my amazement, just last week, I watched every single aphid dry up and die over a 3 day period. What has happened is that the pepper plants systemically drew in the alkaloids from the grounds and it either killed the aphids directly, or made the plant unpalatable so the aphids died from starvation. I have already noticed that using the grounds will kill scales for 4 1/2 months after an application, so I am assuming right now that the grounds will make my plants immune to predation for about the same amount of time. I will of course watch what happens and note how well this works out in the long run. Anyway, I hope this is of interest to some of you. This is my first post on this forum. I look forward to talking about growing hot peppers more in the future. Tom
Great info, downloaded and saved the PDF. Thank you.

I sometimes recycle my coffee grounds and leftover black coffee in my garden, i may just take it to the next level by using the info you provided.
 
Thanks you guys. Just to add to this, I started researching for my article a year and a half before it was published. It has now been 4 1/2 years since I started playing with using the coffee. I have about 30,000 plants at my place and somewhere around 400 to 500 species of plants. Except for the chemicals I am forced to use, according to the compliance agreements for shipping to other states, I have not had to use an insecticide for that many years. I have never been a fanatic on not using poisons, but on the other hand, I have always used them only when there was a great need for it. Now, I can be organic and not have to settle for half ass ways to kill the insects that I have problems with. The coffee doesn't kill bees or other beneficial insects either. Another great thing is that the coffee has nitrogen and a few other minors in it so every time you use the spray, you are also giving the plant an organic fertilizer dose.
Another thing I have been experimenting with over the last few years is the use of mycorrhiza inoculates into the soil. The idea is that the fungi help the plant metabolize nutrients as well as fight off harmful fungi that can cause root rot. If everything works right, you only have to use a minimal amount of fertilizers to make the plants grow well. I am finding that I can add some composted manure and some coffee, in the soil and add the mycorrhiza, and the plants grow excellently without any fertilizer applications. Once every other week, I will put a tablespoon of Karo Syrup and a tablespoon of Lecithin in a gallon of warm water and use that to water the plants, and that helps to feed the beneficials. In a lot of cases, this has proven to make some plants grow at an unbelievable rate. As far as growing pepper plants go, it lets me grow pepper plants that are beautiful and produce piles of peppers, and all without any store bought fertilizers.
 
Go for the free stuff and it's environmentally friendly.
Mix 1 tbs. of regular dish soap in a 20 oz. or so spray bottle filled with water and mix well.
The soap kills insects in two ways.
Aphids are soft bodied insects that breathe through their skin, so the soapy water suffocates them.
Hard bodied insects get a terminal case of dysentary.
Now for those ants. They hate citrus. So save your lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit rinds. Boil them in water to release the citrus oils (You can freeze this for future use...or freeze the rinds until you are ready to make the spray). Add this to your soapy spray. Hit the Aphids and ants with a direct spray.
Aphids are only a problem in early summer....they can't handle the heat of mid and late summer.
Fiery Regards,
Pepper Joe
:dance: :lol: :dance: :lol: :dance:
 
Grat info cycad!
I'm trying it right now against aphids.
Can you give us a recipe for the tea/spray? How much grounds for liter (or gallon) of water do you add?

Thanks

Datil
 
Thanx Everyone for all the input
I have stayed with the organic spray (but have to say ) as soon as I seen a little ant I sprayed . BUT I do have another question which probably needs posted as a new topic (which I may) BUT it seems to me that the hybreds are more at risk... Than a plant that is pure and more stable.Seems they have a little more of what ever it takes to battle nature.
Thanxs for all the input..Dave
 
I've tried all sorts of natural solutions for aphids. Plain dish soap, spraying the plants with strong blasts of water, this garlic and citrus mixture and then finally some safers soap. In the end all the natural remedies seemed to do more damage to the plants than the aphids. I finally went to a pesticide. I sprayed the plants once and got rid of both the aphids and the mites. I can't recall offhand what it was that I used though.

When I got aphids in my second year growing, I was lucky enough to have a bunch of ladybugs land on my plants and lay eggs. The larva absolutely destroyed the aphids. It was fun to watch too. If I had my choice about which to use, I'd go with ladybugs, but they're not always available in my neck of the woods.
 
Thank You
Blister ..As If I have any more trouble ( my plants are big enough that I shouldn't be having problems) But If I do I am going for the real thing (forget organic) peppers first ...Thanx :-)
 
my aphids got out of control before my local nursery got a new supply of ladybugs in stock, so I sprayed my plants down with a dishsoap/water mixture. Well most of my leaves and all my flowers fell off, presumably from the soap getting into the soil and harming the plants. Leaves were chemical burnt looking starting at the tip by the next morning. I had to do an emergency flush of my pots before work that morning, kinda sucked. The surface of the soil got all sudsy when I started flushing, so there was obviously quite a bit of soap in my soil.

So learn from my mistake, be careful with the soap and maybe put something down to stop the dripping soap solution from soaking into the soil.
 
A recipe for a home remedy to get rid of aphids
1 cup vegetable (or) white mineral oil
2 cups water
2 teaspoons dish soap (without bleach) or Murphy’s soap
Spray this homemade aphid control mixture on the aphids every few days until the aphids recede. This home remedy to get rid of aphids will suffocate the aphids. Make sure that plants that are treated with this solution are kept out of direct sunlight as the oil may magnify the sunlight and burn the plants.
Added by me: This is the formula I used last yr and it did work better than the solution I got from ACE hardware…I did use it late in the evening and plants were in the sun light the next day and none of them were harmed..
PS: I got this solution somewhere off the internet ..It isn’t my own. Dave
 
Grat info cycad!
I'm trying it right now against aphids.
Can you give us a recipe for the tea/spray? How much grounds for liter (or gallon) of water do you add?

Thanks

Datil
The bag of used grounds shown in the article averages from 6 to 7 pounds. The barrel holds 55 gallons of water which would mean a pound of used grounds will make somewhere around 8 to 9 gollons of spray, or drench. This was mainly used to kill the Asian scale, which is a lot tougher than aphids. I found that a half of a bag did pretty well on some insects, so a marginal amount would be a pound doing 16 to 18 gallons, but I don't like taking prisoners, so I have stuck with the stronger amount just to make sure.
 
I used to have problems with aphids every once in a while. Last year I set up a 55 gallon plastic drum up on 4 courses of concrete blocks, and put in a stem that would connect to small spaghetti tubing with mini valves which made a gravity fed drip irrigation system. Sometimes I have to go out of town for a few days and last year I was asked to make a presentation at a horticultural conference. At that time, I was having to water my plants every day. (they are in containers) This way I can water my pepper plants for up to 9 days without being there. About 3 years ago I wrote this article for the journal of The Cycad Society:
http://www.cycad.org/documents/Broome-Coffee-2007.pdf
which was about killing the Asian scale that has now killed at least a billion dollars worth of sagos in Florida alone. If you look at the article, you will see my blue barrel that I use to brew, what I will call in this post "coffee juice" For cycads and the other plants I am growing, I am using the juice as a direct contact spray to kill all kinds of scales, aphids, mealy bugs, white flies and spider mites. In this case I added about 4 gallons of coffee juice to my other barrel every other time I filled it up to water my peppers. All last year, none of my plants were bothered by aphids, or any other insect, for that matter.
So this year I tried something else. I mixed the used coffee grounds about 10% of the volume of soil and for the plants I did this to, I have not had aphids on the plants. Earlier this year, I heard about the Butch T Scorpion peppers, so obviously, I had to find some plants and buy them. I bought a couple of those as well as another scorpion and some Naga Morich plants. I don't know if the plants had eggs on them or what, but in no time at all, every single plant was covered with aphids. I had not mixed the soil with these like I did with my Bhut Jolokias held over from last season. Instead of spraying the plants, I thought it would be good for an experiment. (I experiment a lot) I mixed up an inch of the used grounds in the top 3 inches of the soil and watered it in real well. It took about 3 1/2 weeks, but to my amazement, just last week, I watched every single aphid dry up and die over a 3 day period. What has happened is that the pepper plants systemically drew in the alkaloids from the grounds and it either killed the aphids directly, or made the plant unpalatable so the aphids died from starvation. I have already noticed that using the grounds will kill scales for 4 1/2 months after an application, so I am assuming right now that the grounds will make my plants immune to predation for about the same amount of time. I will of course watch what happens and note how well this works out in the long run. Anyway, I hope this is of interest to some of you. This is my first post on this forum. I look forward to talking about growing hot peppers more in the future. Tom
Great post, cycadjungle! :dance:

After reading your post, along with your excellent article on Cycad.org, I did some research into this remedy, and now have a few questions for ya -

In the references I found for using coffee grounds for pest control, they indicate it being effective for scales and some other things, but not against aphids. This even included articles where both bugs were mentioned - coffee was listed as being effective against scales and some other insects, but other things (not coffee) were listed instead for aphids. :confused:

I was surprised that I could find no independent confirmation that this was effective against aphids?

Indeed, one person who was promoting the use of coffee grounds in gardening for other beneficial purposes, specifically stated that it did not work - that he had tried it both in the soil, as well as a spray, and found that neither were effective against aphids.

While I have no doubt that this is an effective treatment for scales, and that your discovery is undoubtedly a boon to cycad growers everywhere, how sure are you that coffee actually kills aphids?

I also saw numerous references that mentioned coffee grounds driving away ants. Given that ants are known to farm aphids, someone suggested this as a possible indirect cause for the results you mentioned. Is it possible this was the mechanism for what you were observing?

After reading your article, I went to a local Starbucks to inquire about their "Grounds For Your Garden". I asked for the silver bag, but they ended-up giving me a huge / very heavy trash bag full of fresh grounds! :cool:

They also seemed quite happy to hear that their grounds could possibly be utilized for such a useful purpose as natural pest control!

(Ironically, given all the loss and frustration these dang aphids have caused me, I have since decided to also add a less-than-organic approach to my anti-aphid arsenal - will post something about that later.;))

Finally, trying to make 55-gallon drums of coffee tea at a time (or even 8-18 gallons) is likely overkill for many home growers. And given that used coffee grounds come wet (so I'm guessing much of their weight is water weight), I would think that trying to measure them out based on weight could be problematic, as wouldn't the actual amount vary considerably, depending on how wet/dry the grounds were?

I was thus originally going to ask you for a recipe based on volume rather than weight, and in an amount more suitable for home growers (i.e. - something like 1/4 cup per 32oz or gallon of water).

But then I recalled that there are 8 fluid oz to a cup, and given that much of their weight is probably water weight, and anxious to experiment with your ideas, I decided to down-scale & convert your recipe based on fluid weight, in order to guestimate an approximate volume.

So here's what I got -

Going with your stronger formula, based on 1 lb wet grounds for 8 gallons water, so 2 oz for 1 gallon, or 0.5 oz for 32 oz water, = 1/16th cup, =

1 tablespoon grounds for 32 oz (1 quart) water.

Does this sound like about the right amount?

1 tablespoon didn't sound like much...until I tried mixing it! :eek: When I shook the bottle, the water turned solid BLACK. Has now been sitting in a windowsill for less than a day, and even after settling, it is already the color of iced tea. :)

Other coffee tea recipes that I found (for use as liquid fert), were in the same ballpark - 1 called for 1/2 lb for 5 gallons, based on the same conversion approach, that came out to slightly less, or 0.8 tablespoon per 32 oz water.

Another was already based on volume, and a bit stronger - 2 cups grounds for 5 gallons, so 1.6 tablespoons per 32 oz water.

The later recipe was also meant for use as a foliar spray, so 1 tablespoon looks to be safe for plants.

Is that about the concentration you were using in your full-strength drench?

Also - in the course of researching this, it also appears that regardless of it's effectiveness against aphids, coffee grounds might make an excellent fert specifically for hot peppers - will probably post more info about that later!
 
Great post, cycadjungle! :dance:

I use Neem oil soap , this seems to work well enough 99% of the time, as spray and every 2 weeks in the irrigating solution as per directions.I back this up with kidnapped Assassin bug nymphs.I live in south La which bug paradise central.Maybe I've just been lucky though- definately gonna try adding the grounds to the soil.
 
As promised, following is some info on my non-organic approach to this problem!

Given my lack of effective results using soap-based and other homemade remedies against aphids over the last couple of years (where I would drench all my plants, and then find some of them covered with aphids as soon as the next day! :banghead:), while I also wanted to give cycadjungle's idea a try, I started thinking I needed to move beyond organic approaches to something a bit stronger. :flamethrower:

So when I read this -

The four I found at the big box stores were:

Product - Active Ingredient
Bayer Fruit and Vegetable – Imidacloprid, a nicotine-based, systemic insecticide
Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect spray - Cyfluthrin, a synthetic pyrethroid derivative
Ortho Bug-B-Gon MAX Lawn & Garden Insect Killer – Bifenthrin, a pyrethroid insecticide
Ortho Flower, Fruit and vegetable – Acetamiprid, an organic neonicotinoid insecticide


You can Google or Wikipedia the active ingredient to find out the nasty effects of each. I picked the last one based on recommendations here and my own research.
...given the massive amount of pain and grief that aphids have been causing me since last year (destroying a rare pepper plant collection that took me a decade to build :banghead: ), the idea of a "silver bullet" to eliminate this problem was just too tempting to pass-up!

My experience with pyrethin-based and other similar direct-contact pesticides was that they proved no more effective against aphids than home remedies (indeed, the main differences seemed to be that they cost more, and sometimes had a tendancy to damage some of my pepper plants!)

Systemic seemed the way to go. The key was to find something that would accumulate inside the plant strong enough to make it poisonous to aphids, but without making my pepper pods toxic to humans in the process! :eek:

Two of the suggested products appeared to fit the bill - Imidacloprid and Acetamiprid, both of which appeared to be based on the same approach - a synthetic(?) nicotine derivative.

I quickly discovered that Imidacloprid was much more expensive than Acetamiprid (over twice as much), so given the rave reviews on the later, I opted to go with it.

I went down to the local Ace Hardware, but was unable to find the specific product recommended above. I did, however, find an Ortho product with the same active ingredient (Acetemiprid) -

"Ortho Bug B Gon Garden Insect Killer"

in a green bottle, and the instructions said was OK for use on peppers, so I went with that. Set me back 8 and some change for 32oz at Ace - not too bad if it solves the problem!

The bottle said to go to www.ortho.com for more info, but when I did (to try to confirm that it was similar to the Ortho Flower, Fruit & Vegetable product people recommended above), I was surprised to discover that the product I had just purchased is not even listed on their web site! :shocked:

Even more confusing, the Bug B Gon products I did find on their web site were all based on a completely different insecticide! :confused:

I also discovered that the company who's web site I was forwarded to (Scott's), is the same company that plays "musical chairs" with their formulas / product names for the "Miracle Grow" product line. :rolleyes:

But being a pesticide, it should be regulated, right? So I should be able to find some information about it! :cool:

A little further research revealed that what I bought is indeed not just similar, but the exact same thing as the product recommended above, and is actually manufactured by a Japanese company (Nippon Soda Co. Ltd.) - Scott's is just a distributor!

Just noticed that Lowes has the word "Max", but the Home Depot version doesn't have the word "Max" in it's name. I wonder what the difference is. The Ortho website no longer includes the Max labeled product.
Jetchuka, it appears "Max" was just a marketing gimmick, there is no difference! It even has the same concentration of active ingredients as the "non-Max" version!

In fact, it seems this exact same product is being sold under SIX different names, which I have listed below, for the convenience of those of you looking for this stuff - :cool:

Acetamiprid RTU Insecticide
Ortho Bug B Gon Garden Insect Killer Ready To Use
Orth Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready To Use
Ortho Max Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer Ready To Use
Ortho Rose and Flower Insect Killer Ready To Use
Ortho Rosepride Insect Killer Ready To Use

See this web page for more details -

http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Product.jsp?REG_NR=00803300021&DIST_NR=000239

But given Scott's history of selling similarly-named products with different ingredients, be sure that the Active Ingredient is listed as 0.006% Acetamiprid! ;)

(Hint - avoid the red bottles!)

Anyways, now that I know I got the right stuff, I have high hopes for this product!

Next up, the results of a head-to-head test I did this week - coffee vs. Acetamiprid!
 
Laser, it sounds like your volumes are about right. Instead of using the weights I mention, you could always take an average sized silver bag from SB and measure it out in a half gallon measuring container and see hoiw much volume it is. As far as whether the coffee will kill aphids, I already know that it does, along with mealy bugs and a few other things I have to deal with.
If you are going to use a poison on your pepper plants, I like Imidicloprid. I think the best form would be "Admire" which is labeled for food crops. You may not be able to buy that at a regular store though. Its funny that you mention that. I am going to add a link to my article section in my website:
http://cycadjungle.8m.com/cycadjungle/articles.html
You will see the coffee article linked, but also an article I wrote about 8 years ago on the Asian scale. Check that one out. It mentions how Imidicloprid could aslo be used for the scale, but that product, in general, is rather expensive, but, even though I have not used it on my pepper plants, you may be able to drench the pepper plant real good and it might kill insects for most of the season, if you drench when the plant is younger. I do know that Imidicloprid concentrates most in the new foliage, so anything produced a week or two after the drench would have the most chemical in it.
As far as using the coffee for composting and a slight fertilizer boost, that has been done by people for years. I guess, at the time I wote my article, not too many people knew about it killing insects. Then I thought, most people were using it for composting, and most of the alkaloids seem to be neutralized after about 4 to 41/2 months, so in most cases, they were using the material after it had gone bad for insect killing use.
 
With systemic and contact pesticides causing all kinds of SERIOUS ecological nightmares from Colony Collapse Disorder of honey bees to birth defects and disease in humans; coffee grounds should be a first consideration when trying to control garden pests. It's not a "Old wives tale". It has been proven to be effective and well documented, by Tom Broome, who happens to be one of the leading Palm and Cycad experts of our time.

If we can greatly reduce or even eliminate the use of synthetic chemical pesticides, save money, help the environment, and recycle typically wasted coffee grounds; why not give it a try?
 
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