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tutorial Beginner's guide to AACT/Compost Tea
- Thread starter bigbodybussey
- Start date
Time to get back into the swing of things and start my brew.
Progress to be posted soon on my GLOG http://thehotpepper.com/topic/33088-bigbodybusseys-glog-uh-well-sort-of/?p=671053
Also got to read back through all the responses...damn there's alot.
Progress to be posted soon on my GLOG http://thehotpepper.com/topic/33088-bigbodybusseys-glog-uh-well-sort-of/?p=671053
Also got to read back through all the responses...damn there's alot.
This thread is still going strong! lol NICE!
I'm looking at making tea to charge my biochar. However, I am worried about the chloramine in our water (Detroit area), and the unrealistic lengths one has to go thru to get rid of it. I have read that 1tbs of humic acid per 100 gal of water gets rid of it; however, that number comes from many gardening sites, and not from research that I can find.
Has anyone any substantial evidence that humic acid rids the water of chloramine? Am I better off making a steeped tea, and letting the soil supply its own micros? In the case of biochar, would the use of steeped or brewed even make a difference in the long term? As I said, the soil will move micros into their biochar condos in time.
Has anyone any substantial evidence that humic acid rids the water of chloramine? Am I better off making a steeped tea, and letting the soil supply its own micros? In the case of biochar, would the use of steeped or brewed even make a difference in the long term? As I said, the soil will move micros into their biochar condos in time.
Myxlplyk said:
I just bubble my water with my aquarium heater set to 85F for a few hours. No more Cl. Even just letting the water sit at room temp overnight should bring Cl levels down to the point where it should be fine.
Myxlplyk said:
Hmmm. Then you might have to filter your water to get rid of it. Won't the Chlorine just bond to the humid acid and stay in the system? I guess you could filter out the humid acid afterwards, but I would imagine it's cheaper just to filter out the Cl from the start.
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
That's the point. I have no idea what humic acid does to chloramine to break it down into chlorine and ammonia. I'm optimistic about humic acid being the cure, but I'd like a little assurance that it's the real deal. There is no reason for me to make brewed tea if the chloramine kills all of the itty-bitties I make. Brewed tea is too expensive to go down the drain.
Myxlplyk said:
I did a quick gurgle search and found this: http://www.sfwater.org/modules/showdocument.aspx?documentid=4125
Vitamin C is waaaaaay cheaper than humid acid. Not sure how it works, but it's worth a shot.
edit: Brewed tea is expensive?! Mine probably costs between $.05 and $.25 per 4 gallon batch, depending on what I add.
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
I read that vitamin C does not break down chloramine. I just scanned thru your link, and it seems like government pie in the sky jibberjabber. Putting fruit in will neutralize the chloramine? Everything I've read from the water companies themselves seem to take the path of most resistance... ie, it is very hard to get rid of it. And they specifically mentioned vitamin C as being ineffective. The SF government also said it's safe. There are a lot of conflicting reports out there, and a lot of governments trying to sell this to the public, and not being totally truthful to the buyer.
Brewed tea is not expensive per gallon, but the ingredients can be. Humic acid, fish emulsions, kelp, stones, all cost money that could be saved by making steeped tea. The reason I want brewed is to populate the biochar before it's mixed with the compost (charging with tea is an overnight job; charging it with compost takes around 3 weeks). By charging it with steeped tea, I fill the condos with water and nutrients, but no occupants. As I said before, that can happen once put in place. The nutrients are the important thing with biochar.
Myxlplyk said:
There is a product for the aquarium trade for removing chlorine and chloramines called Stress Coat. IIRC it had Aloe in it and was also able to neutralize metals in the water. I wonder if this would be safe for plants.
Many aquariums have plants, and some have nothing but plants. So I'd have to say that it is. Whether it's safe for food raised from plants, I don't know.
Stress coat also contains an ingredient called sodium thiosulfate, which apparently neutralizes the chlorine, leaving free ammonia.
I have (2) 55 gallon rain barrels that I use strictly for brewing of teas and whatnot. I water my plants with standard city water, chloramine and all. My well water has too high salt content for daily watering.
I know that I'm going to be the bad guy here, but I'm going to say it, anyway...Myxlplyk said:
There are a number of studies which prove that chloramine doesn't negatively affect beneficial bacteria. The studies that were conducted showed a decrease in beneficial bacteria which were so low, that they were almost identical to the control. (ionized water soaked soil sample) I use it in my garden all the time to water, and I don't seem to have any problem. And I do use organic methods.
I use my rain barrels to fill my compost tea brewer, because it's close to my work area.
I hose down the lawn clippings and shredded leaves that I turn into my main compost pile every year and I never have a problem getting temps up to 150-160F. And my municipal water is some of the worst there is as far as chlorination.
solid7 said:I know that I'm going to be the bad guy here, but I'm going to say it, anyway...
There are a number of studies which prove that chloramine doesn't negatively affect beneficial bacteria. The studies that were conducted showed a decrease in beneficial bacteria which were so low, that they were almost identical to the control. (ionized water soaked soil sample) I use it in my garden all the time to water, and I don't seem to have any problem. And I do use organic methods.
I use my rain barrels to fill my compost tea brewer, because it's close to my work area.
My question is this: If chlorine is put into water to kill bacteria, how exactly does it differentiate between good and bad bacteria? Does it roll call or something? Bad over here, good over here on this side.
Generally, the chlorinated water will dissipate when you put it in compost or soil, before it destroys too many good germs. But you know chloramine doesn't act like that, right? It sticks around for awhile, which makes it more destructive to the bacteria.
BTW, please post some of those studies that weren't paid for by those who are promoting chloramine... like by gardening advocates
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
Chlorine or chloramine?
I don't think it does differentiate - I think it's all about saturation. In your water supply, the concentration (in PPM) of the chloramines is going to much higher, obviously, than in the 20% or so of free space that water can actually occupy in a container, soil, compost pile, etc. And toxins are seldom fatal to an organism at any given quantity. The human body can actually metabolism cyanide, up to a point. So why can't bacteria do the same? I'm not sure if the actual interaction between soil borne bacteria, and chloramines is FULLY understood, but I think we're playing a game of percentages here... We're talking the difference between microbe counts in stored water, vs the effect of said water, in a given quantity, against a potentially higher microbe count. And then, there is the matter of anyone actually explaining what happens to the chloramine, once it's in the soil... (which I think you've just asked me to do, but I honestly cannot)Myxlplyk said:
If you can get past the Canadian-ness of this guy's speech, his experiment is sound. It's all in layman's terms, so it's pretty easy consumption.
Please note, that while it does say chlorinated water, the gentleman explains how chlorine become chloramine in the water system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgvlE8YM1xI