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Black/Dark End on Ripening Pepper
- Thread starter Canes1
- Start date
   I agree, it looks like BER. It's almost always caused by big swings in soil moisture. If your plants are in containers, try to not allow them to dry out a lot between waterings. If they're in soil, mulch the soil to help maintain soil moisture and if it gets really dry, water them deep.Â
   Good luck!
   Good luck!
Still enough there for a little taste. +1 on moisture control, were into the 3rd heatwave in the last month and I've got at least 6+"s of mulch on beds. Attentive watering with moisture meter and so far no signs.(KOW) My pots have tyvek sleeves so I can pull them up to shade mulched soil surface.
ÂCanes1 said:
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   That's definitely a good idea for young plants to reduce the chances of root rot, damping off and fungus gnat infestation. But when your plants are podding, they need more consistent moisture. It's OK if the soil dries out between waterings, but when a plant is drooping leaves, it is stressed. Heavily stressed plants can't photosynthesize sugars or translocate nutrients and energy where they are needed. That's what causes BER.Â
   At least there's an easy fix. The pods that are already damaged won't get better, but if you start watering sooner, your future pods ought to be fine.Â
ÂWimpy69 said:
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   That's friggin' genius. You took mulching to a whole new level! I bet that white, reflective layer really helps keep your pots cool.Â
   I'll knock on wood for you, too.
   Bone meal is always a good idea for pepper plants. I add a bunch to my soilless mix and my raised beds every year. It contains necessary nutrients (mostly Ca and P) for overall plant health and pod production. But applying it in the hopes that it will stop BER is like giving an IV to someone who is hemorrhaging. You need to address the root of the problem.
   When a pepper plant is trying to develop a lot of pods, it is concentrating growth in a lot of different areas (pods) at the same time. Each pod has millions of cells dividing and growing all at the same time. Every one of those cells needs ample Ca to develop a healthy, strong cell wall. If Ca is limiting in the area where the cells are dividing, weak cell walls result. Cells need cell walls to maintain their integrity. If they are weak, the cells can be damaged by turgor pressure within the cell - leading to ruptured cells and a virtually undefended smorgasbord for fungi.Â
   The vascular system in plants that is responsible for translocating mineral nutrients needs to have adequate water to move the dissolved nutrients from place to place (in this case from the roots to the new pods). If water is very limited, these nutrients can't be delivered to the growing tissue fast enough to meet demand. Cells get weak and BER results.
   Even if you added a more than ample supply of readily available Ca to your plant, it won't matter if it can't make it to the areas where it is needed.Â
   You could always add a few handfuls of bone meal to your containers just to be safe. I usually add a little more around this time of year, because my soil is starting to get exhausted. But if there's already adequate Ca in your soil, consistent watering is all it will take to fix the problem.Â
   When a pepper plant is trying to develop a lot of pods, it is concentrating growth in a lot of different areas (pods) at the same time. Each pod has millions of cells dividing and growing all at the same time. Every one of those cells needs ample Ca to develop a healthy, strong cell wall. If Ca is limiting in the area where the cells are dividing, weak cell walls result. Cells need cell walls to maintain their integrity. If they are weak, the cells can be damaged by turgor pressure within the cell - leading to ruptured cells and a virtually undefended smorgasbord for fungi.Â
   The vascular system in plants that is responsible for translocating mineral nutrients needs to have adequate water to move the dissolved nutrients from place to place (in this case from the roots to the new pods). If water is very limited, these nutrients can't be delivered to the growing tissue fast enough to meet demand. Cells get weak and BER results.
   Even if you added a more than ample supply of readily available Ca to your plant, it won't matter if it can't make it to the areas where it is needed.Â
   You could always add a few handfuls of bone meal to your containers just to be safe. I usually add a little more around this time of year, because my soil is starting to get exhausted. But if there's already adequate Ca in your soil, consistent watering is all it will take to fix the problem.Â
   I posted a review article a while back that talked about the myth of adding Ca as a remedy for BLS. I'll see if I can find it for you tomorrow.Â
http://ucanr.edu/sites/placernevadasmallfarms/files/86509.pdf
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the whole let them droop is to keep noobs from overwatering but is actually bad to have moisture fluctuations like that.
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the whole let them droop is to keep noobs from overwatering but is actually bad to have moisture fluctuations like that.
Âjuanitos said:
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   ^ Gold. Even better than the one I was referring to. Thanks!
Thanks for the help guys,excellent info. I see with the weather lately they droop in 4 days or so, I will keep better watering schedule related to the weather now.
I bought a couple of bags of bone meal for my soil mixes just for this, I read before once BER starts it's hard to cure.
And again appreciate all the help, I need all I can get starting out.
I bought a couple of bags of bone meal for my soil mixes just for this, I read before once BER starts it's hard to cure.
And again appreciate all the help, I need all I can get starting out.
I have access to tyvek coveralls. I take a 3xxl cover all and cut the legs off at the crotch giving you two sleeves. Slide your pot down as far as it will go, then trim off excess leaving enough to fold over to center of pot. Besides the shading, I gather loose material and use clothes pins so when it rains i can shield water to prevent over saturation of pots. Has worked real well with the amount of heat waves we've had this summer.
ÂWimpy69 said:
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   I am going to tell you this once. I am stealing this idea. Right now. Shamelessly and in front of everyone.Â
I've thought of using pieces or wood or something to partially cover the tops of pots to prevent overwatering, too. I like your idea better, because it allows you to shade outside of the pot from the sun, too. That's awesome!    I guess no matter how big of a pot you use, you could always just buy a roll of Tyvek and have at it. Even my big, light colored pots get really hot and dry in late summer. I bet a loose layer of stark white Tyvek would help a lot. Thanks!
