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Broad mites.

Broad mites are a completely different beast. The toxin injected at feeding distorts leaf growth and reduces the effectiveness of contact insecticides. The more successful solutions use wetting agents and/or horticultural oil for greater coverage and effect.

Spider mites re:two spot can be identified with the naked eye though many find a loupe helpful. Broads are a quarter to a fifth the size and require above 50x magnification. The distinctive speckled shape of their eggs make them easy to identify successfully.

Soap is highly effective against spider mites and can wipe out an infestation if used properly. Not sure why it's not more common beyond user error = product fail in far too many assessments.
 
miguelovic said:
Broad mites are a completely different beast. The toxin injected at feeding distorts leaf growth and reduces the effectiveness of contact insecticides. The more successful solutions use wetting agents and/or horticultural oil for greater coverage and effect.

Spider mites re:two spot can be identified with the naked eye though many find a loupe helpful. Broads are a quarter to a fifth the size and require above 50x magnification. The distinctive speckled shape of their eggs make them easy to identify successfully.

Soap is highly effective against spider mites and can wipe out an infestation if used properly. Not sure why it's not more common beyond user error = product fail in far too many assessments.
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Guess I was wrong then.
 
I did find this. It was after a long thread about BM's in another thread about BM's...
 
 
Straight and simple.....

Floramite does not work on BM's
Forbid has 4-10 day knockdown and they continue to inject toxin into leaves for 10 days. Did NOT have ovicidal properties. Not a good choice either.
Akari works and is reasonably priced
Avid works and is reasonably priced
Pylon works and is very expensive. Phantom is same ingredient but I have not tested yet. Phantom is very cost effective.
Add an ovicide to all three above...I use tetrasan
Add a wetting agent.....I use coco wet

Always dip even with translaminars. Remember that the toxin they inject is far worse than the bug itself. Be diligent in follow up applications and get 325mg/gal aspirin going now. Aspirin with help with toxin and very quickly.

Heat treatment of 120 for 1 hour is also effective. I use it in veg only but many over on ICmag use it in bloom. I go to 135 for 2 hours on an empty room between cycles.

Peace
 
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miguelovic said:
 
I thought abamectin degraded quite quickly and had little systemic action? re: contact insecticide.
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nah its a translaminar aka local systemic.
 
it soaks into leaf tissue and moves around to some degree.  its supposed to protect for like 3 weeks, but ive found each time ive used it... it more or less eradicates them for most if not all of the season.
 
though i suppose if you had super bad mites all season long you might need multiple applications.
 
Wettable sulphur if you go the organic route is the most effective solution. That is the only one I can attest to personally and if don't get rain it can stay effective for 14-21 days ... Just don't use any type of oil type plant products (like neem etc) alongside it and make sure you get a good coverage on the plants themselves.

If you go conventional non organic chemical then listen to someone like queequeg152 ...
 
Trippa said:
Wettable sulphur if you go the organic route is the most effective solution. That is the only one I can attest to personally and if don't get rain it can stay effective for 14-21 days ... Just don't use any type of oil type plant products (like neem etc) alongside it and make sure you get a good coverage on the plants themselves.

If you go conventional non organic chemical then listen to someone like queequeg152 ...
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Sulphur it is. I'm not a fan of chemical pesticides unless I have to, like for bacterial spotting. 
 
cruzzfish said:
http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-142-Sulphur-Fungicide-4-Pound/dp/B0035H7V34

That one?
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Yes bro.
I also purchased these applicators

http://www.amazon.com/Dust-R-Duster-Pyganic-Diatamaceous-Granule/dp/B004T0H6CC

http://www.amazon.com/Dustin-mizer-Model-1212-Includes-Deflector/dp/B003UGX742

Remember sulfer shouldn't be used in temps turned of 90f or within so many days of an oil spray.
For me I started dusting after destroying all but 2 plants as a trap crop and used those applicators with 3 bags of that sulfer all over my property, but mainly over the areas where my plants were. I was pissed at the mites. I was gonna destroy them with my OCD of dusting. By the way, last year I harvested only 2 chinense peppers and about 4 jalas last year. :(
 
Lovepeppers said:
Yes bro.
I also purchased these applicators

http://www.amazon.com/Dust-R-Duster-Pyganic-Diatamaceous-Granule/dp/B004T0H6CC

http://www.amazon.com/Dustin-mizer-Model-1212-Includes-Deflector/dp/B003UGX742

Remember sulfer shouldn't be used in temps turned of 90f or within so many days of an oil spray.
For me I started dusting after destroying all but 2 plants as a trap crop and used those applicators with 3 bags of that sulfer all over my property, but mainly over the areas where my plants were. I was pissed at the mites. I was gonna destroy them with my OCD of dusting. By the way, last year I harvested only 2 chinense peppers and about 4 jalas last year. :(
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Temps aren't an issue for me, and I don't use oil, so I should be fine and thanks for recommending the application devices.
 
If sulfur somehow doesn't work, I'll try Azamax or whatever CAPCOM recommends.
 
Cool, just keep dusting those plants, you have nothing to lose as the Borg is there. The bulb duster is more precise to get in crevices where they hide. The Dustin mizer makes huge clouds and covers just like how the farmers use when they hit there crops with sulfer. There plenty of videos on YouTube showing this.
FYI, I used only goggles and those white low price 3m breathing masks to keep you from breathing the dust in. It worked great.
Just bring vengeance to the mites and your area, and even dust in the fall and winter.
If done correctly, hopefully your next 2016 grow will be mite free like mine.

You got thus bro! Ask me anytime if you have questions of any.
 
Lovepeppers said:
Cool, just keep dusting those plants, you have nothing to lose as the Borg is there. The bulb duster is more precise to get in crevices where they hide. The Dustin mizer makes huge clouds and covers just like how the farmers use when they hit there crops with sulfer. There plenty of videos on YouTube showing this.
FYI, I used only goggles and those white low price 3m breathing masks to keep you from breathing the dust in. It worked great.
Just bring vengeance to the mites and your area, and even dust in the fall and winter.
If done correctly, hopefully your next 2016 grow will be mite free like mine.

You got thus bro! Ask me anytime if you have questions of any.
Click to expand...
I have two questions with it. One, will using water and a spray can work also? And two, how will this effect other insects in the area? There are a few things that I'd rather keep around.
 
Water works too. I want to say I remember reading ucdavis website saying sulfur had better results being dry, but don't quote me on it.
If I were you I would read ucdavis on sulfur for mites, it states how low,t moderate to high for beneficials.
 
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