• Blog your pepper progress. The first image in your first post will be used to represent your Glog.

CaneDog - Off-Season Season 2018/19

Thought I'd post a few pics of what I have going on indoors this off-season.  I used to do a winter indoor grow about every season, but this will be my first in a couple years now.  I went a bit over-board with the number of plants, as usual, but I've culled a few already and I have expansion room if needed.
 
I'm using a handy little extra walk-in closet to start things out. Keeps temp well and makes it easy to chill and work with the plants.
 
20181008_PWalk30.jpg

 
 
Most everything's potted up into 1g Boxer Browns now.  Here's a few of this season's players.
 
Baha Goat
_20181119_BGoat.jpg

 
 
Fatalii
_20181119_Fatty.jpg

 
Bhut Jolokia White - topped it early on as it was already wanting to branch like crazy
_20181119_BJWhiteTopped.jpg

 
Butch T
_20181119_TScorpBT2.jpg

 
Kathumby starting to bud up
_20181119_Kathumby.jpg

 
 
And this guy is a 7 Pot White that sprouted late right up against another plant, so I yanked it out.  It had what seemed like only about 2mm of root still attached, but I stuck it in Kratky and it not only survived but seems fairly happy.
_20181119_7PW_KratkyTop.jpg

 
CD
 
Click to expand...
Mr. West said:
What's your goal with the ties, pulling the stalks together at the center? Looks like for the Bhut White its keeping them oriented vertically into the light.
Click to expand...
 
Yep, I find when I top older plants the new growth branches will spread farther laterally, which I don't want them to do in this scenario. So, I top them, let them start to grow out, then I clear out some leaves in the center for air circulation and train them less outward more upward. Instead of a tall sparser plant or a short wide bushy plant, my goal is a shorter plant with multiple equal growth stems, smaller leaves, and good air circulation.  Plus I don't expect to have room for these under my HID's and the CFL should penetrate them better with that growth profile.
 
Hey, didn't I see you post you were growing Bonda Malhala?  How are you finding it and do you know which phenotype you have?  Mine seemed pretty average for a while, but now it looks like it might be getting ready to beast.
 
I have a Mahala plant. It has shown great vigor. It gets some of the most concentrated light under both LED. 
Don't know the pheno. In the thread you linked, the bigger greenhouse plant has a two-tiered shape. Mine might start looking like that, growing up into the light. The smaller plant there has just one short level canopy. Like you, my goal in shaping them is to keep them short and maybe get all the lower shoots caught up. I haven't pruned leaves, but I plan to continue doing new growth tips. Not letting them flower yet. They have time to kill.
 
Decided to create some space, so I did another graft. Gives me a better chance for success too.  Perhaps any mistakes in technique can be made up for with volume ;)
 
Brain Strain Red + Nagabrains Yellow.  Kinda looks like a little palm tree I think.
 
20181204_BSRNOG&NGBY.jpg

 
 
CGN21500 + 7 Pot White still surviving
20181204_21500&7PW.jpg

 
 
I'm hoping to fill the new space created by by the BSR / Nagabrains merger with a CAP 1491 Eximium.  Had it in a coffee filter for the past 12 days and the radical just emerged this A.M.  It's still in the incubator running probably 84F - 88F, but transferred to a solo cup with starter mix.  Really hoping this guy hooks.
 
I moved the other couple seeds over as well.  Who knows?
20181204_ExGerm.jpg

 
Radical radicle macro
20181204_ExGermCU.jpg
 
internationalfish said:
 
Haha, well done.
 
Particularly digging the grafts, though. If I end up with a lot of bonchi fodder, perhaps I'll try this out as well.
Click to expand...
 

Are you planning to bonchi some from your current grow?  You have some good prospects. That Eximium above is destined to become a bonchi if it gets going and makes it healthy through the end of 2019.
 
CaneDog said:
Are you planning to bonchi some from your current grow?  You have some good prospects. That Eximium above is destined to become a bonchi if it gets going and makes it healthy through the end of 2019.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds cool on that Eximium, I'll be rooting for it. Heh. Heh heh. Rooting.
 
Yeah, I'd love to bonchi one of my plants; don't really even care which. If I manage something with a reasonably thick trunk, the idea is to order this old-style temple model and transplant a bonchi at a steep angle behind it. I figure if I trim anything that grows on the 'bottom' side it could end up looking like kind of a traditional Japanese scene.
 
internationalfish said:
 
Sounds cool on that Eximium, I'll be rooting for it. Heh. Heh heh. Rooting.
 
Yeah, I'd love to bonchi one of my plants; don't really even care which. If I manage something with a reasonably thick trunk, the idea is to order this old-style temple model and transplant a bonchi at a steep angle behind it. I figure if I trim anything that grows on the 'bottom' side it could end up looking like kind of a traditional Japanese scene.
Click to expand...
 

Yeah, your CGN21500 could be a really cool bonchi (good chance I'll convert my remaining one) and pretty much anything off your most recent batch of 4 would be awesome.
 
Was about to 'like' your post, but "rooting for it?"  Man, that's really bad.  :rolleyes:   Going to have to mull this one over...
 
Day 14 update on the CGN21500 + 7 Pot White graft.  It seems to be growing well now, with both branching off the 21500 below the graft point and leaf growth on the 7P above the graft. I transitioned it out of its humidity cover over the last 3 days and today I gave it its first dose of nutrients since the graft.  It's looking slightly pale right now, but I expect that to improve quickly.
 
A cutting can sit in water a long time growing without actually producing roots, but with the graft if there's not a good tissue connection the fluid supply to the scion would be cut off and I'd expect to see wilting fairly quickly.  This leads me to believe this graft is taking. I probably won't try to remove the Parafilm for some time though.
 
20181208_215007PW_Graft.jpg

 
20181208_215007PW_GraftTop.jpg
 
Thanks Paul.  It's surprisingly easy and quick - hopefully I'm not tempting fate saying this.  And yes, if everything survives and grows healthy I'll have both 21500 and 7 Pot White pods on the same plant.  I left enough of the lower plant to branch so it will produce fruit too instead of just the scion - as with a pure "root stock" type of graft.  I may top the 7 Pot scion once it starts to branch, hoping to end up with a more neatly mixed bush of CGN21500 and 7Pot White.
 
I have some more legitimate projects planned for 2019 involving grafting various pepper varieties onto specific root stock varieties and those will produce only from the scion.  In the meantime, this is kind of fun, gets me practice in my grafting techniques, and allows me to produce multiple varieties indoors in a smaller footprint. I think there could be potential value in applying the "multi-pepper" grafting to indoor breeding projects as one could effectively raise 5 iterations of a given generation taking only a single plant to maturity, e.g., topping the base plant and then grafting 4 other plants/branches onto the base plant's 4 branches, which would be a major space saver.  I haven't really thought through how big a pain in the @** that could be logistically though.  Still pretty much operating in play mode in the multi-pepper grafting space.
 
Luther Burbank would graft seedling walnuts to adult trees so he could get results from his crosses more quickly.
CaneDog said:
Thanks Paul.  It's surprisingly easy and quick - hopefully I'm not tempting fate saying this.  And yes, if everything survives and grows healthy I'll have both 21500 and 7 Pot White pods on the same plant.  I left enough of the lower plant to branch so it will produce fruit too instead of just the scion - as with a pure "root stock" type of graft.  I may top the 7 Pot scion once it starts to branch, hoping to end up with a more neatly mixed bush of CGN21500 and 7Pot White.
 
I have some more legitimate projects planned for 2019 involving grafting various pepper varieties onto specific root stock varieties and those will produce only from the scion.  In the meantime, this is kind of fun, gets me practice in my grafting techniques, and allows me to produce multiple varieties indoors in a smaller footprint. I think there could be potential value in applying the "multi-pepper" grafting to indoor breeding projects as one could effectively raise 5 iterations of a given generation taking only a single plant to maturity, e.g., topping the base plant and then grafting 4 other plants/branches onto the base plant's 4 branches, which would be a major space saver.  I haven't really thought through how big a pain in the @** that could be logistically though.  Still pretty much operating in play mode in the multi-pepper grafting space.
Click to expand...
 
 
Was really happy to see 2 CAP 1491 Eximium seeds hook yesterday, but soon found out neither was coming up clean. The first one came up helmet head with the cotyledons fully covered and as it began to dry it was compacting badly. I tried wetting it and covered it with a damp Ziploc® baggie over night hoping it would stay soft and the seedling could slip out, but no dice. 
 
The method I've had the best success with on the really bad helmet heads is to take a good pair of tweezers (eyebrow pluckers are even better) and grab the seed cover top to bottom and gently squeeze just a little repeatedly pushing down and up directly on the seam of the seed cover and trying to make the center of the sides flex outward.  This one was pretty bad, but eventually the seam began to separate and when it was open enough I was able to extract the cotyledons.
 
It looks a little rough (left), but I've looked worse after a late Saturday night.  Hopefully it will survive too.  The other hook is coming up helmet head as well, but it has a big piece of soil on it so I'm hoping it will stay damper longer and the seedling will self-extract. 
 
If anyone has a better way of dealing with the bad helmet heads feel free to share.  I get most of them now, but I hate losing any, especially when I'm really counting on that particular seedling.
 
20181209%20ExHH&SH.jpg
 
CaneDog said:
Was really happy to see 2 CAP 1491 Eximium seeds hook yesterday, but soon found out neither was coming up clean. The first one came up helmet head with the cotyledons fully covered and as it began to dry it was compacting badly. I tried wetting it and covered it with a damp Ziploc® baggie over night hoping it would stay soft and the seedling could slip out, but no dice. 
 
The method I've had the best success with on the really bad helmet heads is to take a good pair of tweezers (eyebrow pluckers are even better) and grab the seed cover top to bottom and gently squeeze just a little repeatedly pushing down and up directly on the seam of the seed cover and trying to make the center of the sides flex outward.  This one was pretty bad, but eventually the seam began to separate and when it was open enough I was able to extract the cotyledons.
 
It looks a little rough (left), but I've looked worse after a late Saturday night.  Hopefully it will survive too.  The other hook is coming up helmet head as well, but it has a big piece of soil on it so I'm hoping it will stay damper longer and the seedling will self-extract. 
 
If anyone has a better way of dealing with the bad helmet heads feel free to share.  I get most of them now, but I hate losing any, especially when I'm really counting on that particular seedling.
 
20181209%20ExHH&SH.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I use the same technique...however I use a set of hemostats instead of tweezers. You have a little more control, grip and power with them. Good seed starting medium and going at least a full 1/4 inch deep helps, but nothing if foolproof. Some types are just prone to it and no amount of soaking or dirt on top of them is going to fix it. Wild varieties and pubescence are the absolute worst! 
 
You have some very happy looking plants. Nice job thus far! :clap:
 
Shane
 
stc3248 said:
 
I use the same technique...however I use a set of hemostats instead of tweezers. You have a little more control, grip and power with them. Good seed starting medium and going at least a full 1/4 inch deep helps, but nothing if foolproof. Some types are just prone to it and no amount of soaking or dirt on top of them is going to fix it. Wild varieties and pubescence are the absolute worst! 
 
You have some very happy looking plants. Nice job thus far! :clap:
 
Shane
Click to expand...
 

Sometimes the answer is right in front of you - or in the next room over with your fishing gear - and you just don't see it.  All prepared now if seedling #2 doesn't cooperate.
 
20181209_Hemos.jpg
 
BTW stc3248, really excited to watch your GLOG.  Seems like it off to a good start with lots of great varieties and just plain lots of plants.  Having all the expansion potential is really a plus, though it's a lot like the highways - seems as soon as you create new space, you'll find a way to use all of it and then some.  Your LED coverage seems really solid, and is something I'll need to start building up if I'm going to be growing indoors on a regular basis again.  Anyhow, good luck in sunny SC!
CD
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top