water Could this be something other than over watering?

The battle begins.
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Help me out folks. If this is broad mites, the leaves won't come back, they will stay damaged, right?
 
Do I have to wait to see what new growth looks like to see if I am winning / solving the problem?
 
mas_fuego said:
Help me out folks. If this is broad mites, the leaves won't come back, they will stay damaged, right?
 
Do I have to wait to see what new growth looks like to see if I am winning / solving the problem?
 
Yep you need to wait to see the new growth. although it should be evident fairly quickly if the nodes are starting to sprout green non crispy growth, and not just turn brown and die.
 
 
IMO its best to cut the plant back heavily before spraying. Remove all affected growth and destroy it. It reduces the number of places you can miss with the spray/ reduces the population of mites by lots, instantly. Ensure you destroy what you pruned off though..dont toss it in your compost or anything like that,
It also makes it much easier to see your progress as all/ most growth will be new growth. 
 
nzchili said:
 
Yep you need to wait to see the new growth. although it should be evident fairly quickly if the nodes are starting to sprout green non crispy growth, and not just turn brown and die.
 
 
IMO its best to cut the plant back heavily before spraying. Remove all affected growth and destroy it. It reduces the number of places you can miss with the spray/ reduces the population of mites by lots, instantly.
It also makes it much easier to see your progress as all/ most growth will be new growth. 
That's great advice.

I container plants, do they live in the soil? If so, how do I treat that?
 
mas_fuego said:
That's great advice.

I container plants, do they live in the soil? If so, how do I treat that?
 
Sorry do you mean do the mites live in the soil?
The mites do not live in the soil if that's what your asking. Both container plants and plants in ground can get them.
Its just such a highly contagious pest so you don't want to risk spreading it around the property which is why you need to be careful to destroy all off cuts otherwise you will never get rid of them.
 
nzchili said:
 
Sorry do you mean do the mites live in the soil?
The mites do not live in the soil if that's what your asking. Both container plants and plants in ground can get them.
Its just such a highly contagious pest so you don't want to risk spreading it around the property which is why you need to be careful to destroy all off cuts otherwise you will never get rid of them.
OK. So it stands to reason that any plants that are infected will spread the pest to any plant it touches, right? So I should really isolate those plants in my garden, right?

I guess that's kind of common-sense.

Also, are the fruit on those plants still safe to eat?
 
mas_fuego said:
OK. So it stands to reason that any plants that are infected will spread the pest to any plant it touches, right? So I should really isolate those plants in my garden, right?

I guess that's kind of common-sense.

Also, are the fruit on those plants still safe to eat?
 
Yes the fruit will be ok to eat still, and you should definitely isolate affected plants from the others. obviously it wont produce properly with mites but existing fruit should be ok to eat.
It would pay to spray all the plants though even if they are not showing any symptoms, to be on the safe side.  It would only take one plant with mites that you don't notice or cant pick up on and your back to square 1 
It spreads very easily. Spray everything & isolate visibly affected plants
 
nzchili said:
 
Yes the fruit will be ok to eat still, and you should definitely isolate affected plants from the others.
It would pay to spray all the plants though even if they are not showing any symptoms, to be on the safe side.  It would only take one plant with mites that you don't notice or cant pick up on and your back to square 1 
It spreads very easily. Spray everything & isolate visibly affected plants
Thanks for all the info. 80% of my plants are still in solo cups so treating e erything has been easy, though I feel like an idiot for no isolating earlier.

After I harvest some fruit I am going to radically prune. Only one of the plants are must- haves.

Thanks again.
 
mas_fuego said:
Here we are.
 
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Let my mini bell ripen its fruit before going in on it and am still not sure if my scotch bonnet has it or not.
 perfect. exactly what needs to be done.
 
LocalFart said:
Brings a tear to my eye seeing all that growth cut-back. but it's for the best  :pray:
As much as I want to see them grow, I am happy I finally have an answer and a plan going forward.
 
Yeah they are tough Little fullas to control ... Usually its down to your climate ... Here in New Zealand in my climate outdoors they don't seem to be an issue ... Probably not hot enough. Look at predator mites as an option going forward 14 days after sulphur spraying. Sulphur is tough on all bugs good and bad and plants so use it as a last resort after this initial use. Also look at using bi-weekly(every two weeks) kelp/seaweed foliar sprays with fulvic acid to help with pest prevention/general vigour of your plants
 
Trippa said:
Yeah they are tough Little fullas to control ... Usually its down to your climate ... Here in New Zealand in my climate outdoors they don't seem to be an issue ... Probably not hot enough. Look at predator mites as an option going forward 14 days after sulphur spraying. Sulphur is tough on all bugs good and bad and plants so use it as a last resort after this initial use. Also look at using bi-weekly(every two weeks) kelp/seaweed foliar sprays with fulvic acid to help with pest prevention/general vigour of your plants
 

I am going to darn near nuke these things. if they die, they die.
 
mas_fuego said:
 
I am going to darn near nuke these things. if they die, they die.
 
Just know that using sulfur kills beneficial bugs, too, and people who use sulfur, often end up HAVING to use sulfur.  Don't be surprised if you get an explosion of some kind of other bugs after using that stuff, first, and then more mites later.  It may end up being a lot of work, in the long run.
.
The fella who suggested beneficial mites was absolutely right.
 
solid7 said:
 
Just know that using sulfur kills beneficial bugs, too, and people who use sulfur, often end up HAVING to use sulfur.  Don't be surprised if you get an explosion of some kind of other bugs after using that stuff, first, and then more mites later.  It may end up being a lot of work, in the long run.
.
The fella who suggested beneficial mites was absolutely right.
 
Says the guy whose never had broad mite.
 
Sulphur may kill some insects it touches but that's it. Its not going to kill an insect that lands on the plant after the fact. It may harm insects that are there to rec the full brunt of the spray but that all.   Sulphur is a far stretch systemic insecticides which are the real nasties for beneficial insects..
 
I would think that most people would want to get their plants on the mend quicker than what parasitic mites could muster. That takes time..they need to breed, multiply and establish themselves.
 
I agree it would be a good idea a couple weeks after you have sprayed to help keep them away & get some beneficials on the job to keep things in check, but I cant see it being the most effective way forward for dealing with an already established and serious infestation.
 
I may be wrong about the overall effectiveness of the beneficial mites vs broad mite, iv never used them. (and I don't think you have either) But I speak from direct experience in regards to the sulphur and it works.
 
Sulphur has been the cure for these kinds of things for...ever.
 
Real men use sulphur
Hipsters use beneficial mites :D
 
nzchili said:
 
Says the guy whose never had broad mite.
 
Sulphur may kill some insects it touches but that's it. Its not going to kill an insect that lands on the plant after the fact. It may harm insects that are there to rec the full brunt of the spray but that all.   Sulphur is a far stretch systemic insecticides which are the real nasties for beneficial insects..
 
I would think that most people would want to get their plants on the mend quicker than what parasitic mites could muster. That takes time..they need to breed, multiply and establish themselves.
 
I agree it would be a good idea a couple weeks after you have sprayed to help keep them away & get some beneficials on the job to keep things in check, but I cant see it being the most effective way forward for dealing with an already established and serious infestation.
 
I may be wrong about the overall effectiveness of the beneficial mites vs broad mite, iv never used them. (and I don't think you have either) But I speak from direct experience in regards to the sulphur and it works.
 
Sulphur has been the cure for these kinds of things for...ever.
 
Real men use sulphur
Hipsters use beneficial mites :D
Again, I am going to soak these plants every other week and whatever happens happens. If they pick up bad mites on their own they will have to pick up good ones on their own.
 
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