hybrid Crossing Peppers - What are you mixing? Success stories!

KrakenPeppers

KrakenPeppers

As crossing varieties of peppers is my passion with growing them, I was wondering if anyone has had any "Success" stories with crosses, wether it was an unexpected F1 or some great F2 recessives coming through... Whatever made you have a "wow" moment... :dance:
 
If you have any photos to show mother/father = F1 or other images and a description would be great...
 
And what are you currently mixing at the moment?
 
Any hints and tips when getting flowers to pollinate  as I've found this to be the most frustrating part.. My success rate is about 10% for getting a cross to pod up!  :rolleyes:
 
Van said:
Hi there I would like to know as well......
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I myself am doing the as per 2,000 guides out there, manually opening an about to open flower, snagging out the anthers and using another plants pollen to fertilise the flower. I have tried a cotton bud, dabbing direct from the flower, using tweezers with a ripe anther etc. I have even tried doing it on just opened flowers etc. risking a lower chance of crossing just to try and get a pod to fertilise but I still have low luck.
 
I have tried to do it on days of low heat, high heat. Not watered them for days after to stop wash out of the flower etc but still struggle.
 
Does anyone know the sort of times it takes for a flower to accept the pollen and start the podding process? And does anyone know if a singe grain is all that's required or does it need a good coating of pollen?
 
Is this common or am I just doing something wrong? The plants I'm using have already got numerous pods and multiple flowers and I only use donor pollen from fully ripened anthers. I'm also sticking within the Chinense / Annuum / Baccatum varieties. A lot have been chinense to chinense attempts.??
 
KrakenPeppers said:
Does anyone know the sort of times it takes for a flower to accept the pollen and start the podding process? And does anyone know if a singe grain is all that's required or does it need a good coating of pollen?
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It accepts pollen right away. A single grain is all that's required. The best time to pollinate the flower is the day before it opens. You should see the pollen (might need a hand lens) stick to the stigma of the emasculated flower after pollinating it.
 
 
 
The two favorite crosses I made are:
 
 
(7 pot Jonah x pimenta de Neyde F1) x Trinidad Scorpion Moruga.
 
 
Here is one of the F1s:

 
 
I got many colors from my F2 7 pot Jonahs x pimenta de Neyde, including orange, yellow, light orange, creamy white, and red. I wasn't expecting a large range of colors.
 
My favorite was this creamy white that stayed very purple, which I wasn't really expecting.
 
White and Purple 7JPN:


Guts:

 
Another cross I made was a 7 pot original x bhut jolokia Dulac.
 
Here is the F1:
 
Yeah I thought as much .. I'm generally covering the stamen and style in pollen , must just be having a run of bad luck with weather and nutes and so killing them off before they pod up.

Loving your blends , that's the beauty about crossing peppers isn't it .. No matter what cross you make wether new and original or already done the results can be so different.. Are you taking those cream ones to F3 atm?

Loving those F2's how was the heat and flavour
 
I'm happy to say that my Chocolate Bhut x Brazilian Starfish has taken and is growing well so the F1 seeds for that should be planted soon enough.

Also my Brazilian Starfish x Trinidad Moruga Yellow has also taken ..

Hope some of my others have also taken.. Know soon enough . ☺️
 
KrakenPeppers said:
I'm happy to say that my Chocolate Bhut x Brazilian Starfish has taken and is growing well so the F1 seeds for that should be planted soon enough.

Also my Brazilian Starfish x Trinidad Moruga Yellow has also taken ..

Hope some of my others have also taken.. Know soon enough . ☺️
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That should be an interesting pepper. I'm having bad germ rates with my 7JPN x Aji fantasy. 0 so far, but I'm hoping at least one will  come out of 2 pods.

KrakenPeppers said:
Loving those F2's how was the heat and flavour
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A vast improvement over the pimenta de Neyde. They were pretty hot. I'd say they would range from a habanero to a ghost pepper. The creamy white and purple ones are pretty tasty. They are also very crunchy, which they inherited from the pimenta de Neyde.
 
Dulac said:
 
That should be an interesting pepper. I'm having bad germ rates with my 7JPN x Aji fantasy. 0 so far, but I'm hoping at least one will  come out of 2 pods.


A vast improvement over the pimenta de Neyde. They were pretty hot. I'd say they would range from a habanero to a ghost pepper. The creamy white and purple ones are pretty tasty. They are also very crunchy, which they inherited from the pimenta de Neyde.
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I've had little luck, got about 22 crosses pending only 2 confirmed so far... And I've had about 15 failures so far this season. I've got 10 more crosses lined up when they flower , after this season in only keeping parent plants and my crosses the rest are going.. I need to have room form all my F's

I can't wait for my pimenta de neydes to flower up so I can start crossing them ..

Just ordered some red and yellow primos and mustard bhut's ... I've got about 40 varieties atm ..
 
KrakenPeppers said:
I've had little luck, got about 22 crosses pending only 2 confirmed so far... And I've had about 15 failures so far this season. 
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Hmm... I've never crossed anything but have some plans for this season. I was hoping the success rate was higher. Certainly a novice- or even sub-novice like myself will have an even lower success rate.  :confused:
 
I'm sure this question has been answered before but I'll ask again. When I look at the chart that shows which species can be crossed with which species & it says "partially fertile," in in F1 seeds for chinense x frutescens for instance, does that mean for the F1 generation some of your seeds will germinate just fine & some will not? And if so, after F1 do they germinate with more regularity? 
 
As stated in another thread, I'm on a mission to cross something tiny (frutescens) with a superhot (chinense). I may also look at small, non-wild chinenses too, but any that I have are not as small as frutescens. 
 
Thanks. Biology was never my strong suit. 
 
KrakenPeppers said:
Yeah I thought as much .. I'm generally covering the stamen and style in pollen , must just be having a run of bad luck with weather and nutes and so killing them off before they pod up.Loving your blends , that's the beauty about crossing peppers isn't it .. No matter what cross you make wether new and original or already done the results can be so different.. Are you taking those cream ones to F3 atm?Loving those F2's how was the heat and flavour
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Those are some interesting crosses I am especially interested in the Chocolate Bhut x Brazilian Starfish
I would like to try some crosses this year all my stuff is not isolated though so next year the year of mystery lol
 
Plantguy76 said:
Those are some interesting crosses I am especially interested in the Chocolate Bhut x Brazilian Starfish
I would like to try some crosses this year all my stuff is not isolated though so next year the year of mystery lol
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The one good thing about Starfish plants ( although their not purple ) the plants from a seedling really 'REACH' and grow tall quickly, so I'm hoping I can confirm their crosses at an early age.  If the plants stay true to bhut they also have defined flowers so that could be another good indicator...
 
My Starfish plants were nearly a half metre tall when my Bhuts were only 10cm, same amount of leaves though..

I've now confirmed 5x crosses have taken,
 
Chocolate Bhut Jolokia x Brazilian Starfish
Brazilian Starfish x Yellow Moruga Scorpion
White Firecracker x Red Morgua Scorpion
Chocolate Habanero x ?? (My mutant Peach Bhut Plant) ??
7 Pod Barrackapore x ?? (My mutant Peach Bhut Plant) ??
Chocolate Habanero x Yellow Moruga Scorpion
 
Lost a few more buds today.. Starting to look more promising though..
 
KrakenPeppers said:
The one good thing about Starfish plants ( although their not purple ) the plants from a seedling really 'REACH' and grow tall quickly, so I'm hoping I can confirm their crosses at an early age.  If the plants stay true to bhut they also have defined flowers so that could be another good indicator... My Starfish plants were nearly a half metre tall when my Bhuts were only 10cm, same amount of leaves though..
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I've noticed this in the Baccatums I got growing one of which is the starfish kinda makes me think of tomatoes which a course there related to
 
coachspencerxc said:
I'm sure this question has been answered before but I'll ask again. When I look at the chart that shows which species can be crossed with which species & it says "partially fertile," in in F1 seeds for chinense x frutescens for instance, does that mean for the F1 generation some of your seeds will germinate just fine & some will not? And if so, after F1 do they germinate with more regularity? 
 
As stated in another thread, I'm on a mission to cross something tiny (frutescens) with a superhot (chinense). I may also look at small, non-wild chinenses too, but any that I have are not as small as frutescens. 
 
Thanks. Biology was never my strong suit. 
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From what I've been able to determine it means that should your 2x parent plants pollinate, the resulting hybrid pod's 'seeds' will have a low germination rate.. So you might only get a 20% pop rate etc. I don't even bother with the chart, I just get what I like and try and cross them :flamethrower:
 
KrakenPeppers said:
 
From what I've been able to determine it means that should your 2x parent plants pollinate, the resulting hybrid pod's 'seeds' will have a low germination rate.. So you might only get a 20% pop rate etc. I don't even bother with the chart, I just get what I like and try and cross them :flamethrower:
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Gotcha. But after the theoretically low F1 germination rate, will the subsequent generations become more like to germinate?

Thanks
 
coachspencerxc said:
Gotcha. But after the theoretically low F1 germination rate, will the subsequent generations become more like to germinate?

Thanks
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I would only be guessing but I would say if the initial seeds are semi viable that that would be an issue with dominating characteristics of the 2x varieties seed genetics.. In all following F2+ plants if they are self pollinated I would say that this would work itself out in some phenotypes, and in others stay the same through Dominative traits... 
 
Using the example of lets say  
 
Bhut Jolokia Seed (A) 
and
Cayenne Seed (a) 
 
A viable seed might be AA or aa 
 
A partially viable seed might be a Aa or aA 
 
Possibly due to an internal issue in the seed, maybe due to a problem with the stamen development vs anther deterioration time.. I don't know. 
 
The outcome in the in the first cross will be (A/a) and there will be an issue..
 
Due to the nature of genetics the following F2 possibilities are going to be (A/A) - (a/a) - (A/a) - (a/A) 
 
2 will be fully viable two wont be and like all the wonders with pepper phenotypes, you will probably grow 50% of F2 plants that are fully fertile and 50% semi fertile. 
 
I'm just using standard dominant / Receive genetics here though so it could be something completely unrelated and due to something else.. I don't know the reasons behind pepper variety incompatibility. 
 
If all else fails :flamethrower:
 
There are different reasons for incompatibility (size of pollen can be another). However, simplifying as you did explains well enough for practical application imo.
 
So to those of you with experience in crossing (especially those with 2 species), I would assume you plant a fairly large number of seeds to account for potentially poor germination rates. How many to you try to germinate & how many F2 seedlings do you end up keeping typically? Is it a good idea to try the cross with different fathers & different mothers? Would it matter if the seeds of the each of parent plants are from the same pod? ...that is each mother is from the same pod & each father is from the same pod.
 
Thanks.
 
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