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sun Dropping during direct sunlight
- Thread starter Stef0420
- Start date
Stef0420 said:
They were already large when you purchased them, and likely grown in either a green house or partial shade (to keep that luxuriant, green look). So when you put them in the sun, it is not a surprise at all that they are wilting in the sun. As others have suggested, put up some shade cloth. Even an old sheet will do.
Have fun, and don't let the 'purists' bring you down.
Some partial shade seems to help here as well.
Haha the purist if its those who want to know every little detail, ph, ppm...etc lol its me idk haha
I got that plant when she was like 8 inches tall lol it was smal its big now, but I was grown in partial shade, my other plant is loving life doe, she doesnt drop during intense sun, a little only
I got that plant when she was like 8 inches tall lol it was smal its big now, but I was grown in partial shade, my other plant is loving life doe, she doesnt drop during intense sun, a little only
Just relaying my observations down here. Your mileage may vary. My plants are in pots, with regular watering roots up, but then we get pop-up thunderstorms and get a frog-strangling drench in the afternoon. Humidity is choking this time of year. We also have had a HOT year, most of May through now, and no relief in sight. Wherever you are in Georgia, I would expect conditions to differ (less tropics influence), but it's a new season and we'll see what we get. I wish you luck.
You've gotten a lot of good advice, but I'd add a few thoughts regarding the heat. The first is that you have your pots on the concrete stoop which will hold a lot of heat overnight. Since it is going to keep the plants warmer than if they were off on the grass or on some mulch, etc. that may increase flower and fruit drop, plus reduce fruit set. I've found if it cools enough overnight I can still get pretty good fruit set (variety dependent), but when the heat stays 80+ overnight fruit set drops more dramatically.
The second thought is that the black plastic pots in really hot locations get really hot and can literally cook the roots that are running just inside them, plus it heats the soil increasing drying. Both things can lead to more wilting by end of day. If you don't mind the look, I would consider wrapping tin foil or something else around the pots. I did this for some fig cuttings I had in plastic nursery pots last year and they seemed happier on the super hot days.
The second thought is that the black plastic pots in really hot locations get really hot and can literally cook the roots that are running just inside them, plus it heats the soil increasing drying. Both things can lead to more wilting by end of day. If you don't mind the look, I would consider wrapping tin foil or something else around the pots. I did this for some fig cuttings I had in plastic nursery pots last year and they seemed happier on the super hot days.
zendog said:
I would agree with this, plus at some point you have roots filling out containers. 1-gal., 3-gal., and then 5 to 7 gal. containers increase root growth by volume, and again this is my observation/opinion (for now), plants flower and drop for a time, then stop dropping and pod up, then fruit, then go through the sequence again. The variable I have experienced is that if a plant thrives in a 3-gal. pot, then shuts down, it is time to transplant (still in grow season). Transplanting to a 5-gal. planter stoked more growth. In essence, I have observed growth/production slowing when plants get root bound.
This forum has a wonderful tutorial on overwintering, I never knew this was possible, but now I have multiple 2-yr. and 3-yr plants that crank it. Check it out.
Again, this only my experience and perception. The forum has many more experienced people, and they are the goods!
zendog said:
I would agree with this, plus at some point you have roots filling out containers. 1-gal., 3-gal., and then 5 to 7 gal. containers increase root growth by volume, and again this is my observation/opinion (for now), plants flower and drop for a time, then stop dropping and pod up, then fruit, then go through the sequence again. The variable I have experienced is that if a plant thrives in a 3-gal. pot, then shuts down, it is time to transplant (still in grow season). Transplanting to a 5-gal. planter stoked more growth. In essence, I have observed growth/production slowing when plants get root bound.
This forum has a wonderful tutorial on overwintering, I never knew this was possible, but now I have multiple 2-yr. and 3-yr plants that crank it. Check it out.
Again, this only my experience and perception. The forum has many more experienced people, and they are the goods!
Thx again, lots of good help here, the pots do get warmer than I would like, maybe I wasnt watering correctly, cuz I put 1ltr of water yesterday and now they are dry lol, they are drinking fast now, and the heat, its weird its been 2 days they havent dropped in the sun like they used to, but since I started this forum, I started giving them more water and they seem to appreciate it haha,
The suns in full blast and they are praying their leaves upward specially pepperoncini
The plant that has flowers is catnip for my cat
The pot size for the banana pepper(smaller) is 3.5gl
And the other one is 4gallon tall pot
Pepper grew a good bit overnight, shes growing fast
The suns in full blast and they are praying their leaves upward specially pepperoncini
The plant that has flowers is catnip for my cat
The pot size for the banana pepper(smaller) is 3.5gl
And the other one is 4gallon tall pot
Pepper grew a good bit overnight, shes growing fast
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Another thought, if your plants aren't that far along, they go through a drop-the flower phase, then there is the making pods phase. Under excessively wet periods they can do the drop leaves, flowers, and pods phase, but eventually you will get peppers. I think you are on the right track. Good Luck, and keep searching the forum, as it is a wealth of information.
The damage a small stick into the soil will cause is much less than the whole plant snapping from a light breeze like it looks like they're about to. A few damaged roots aren't going to cause any noticeable harm to the plant.Stef0420 said:
sjunbboi said:
There are different results by different studies which you can peruse here.> Scientific Observations of Environmental Stress on Pepper Varieties
sjunbboi said:
In my experience, the plastic pots get hotter to the touch, but the biggest difference is how the roots grow in the 2 types of pots. The breathable pots should "root prune" and keeps the roots from circling around at the outside, since the root tips dry out when hitting the fabric and give more finely branched roots within the medium. With plastic pots, the roots grow out, hit the plastic and then grow along the plastic (either down or circling). So with plastic pots you have a lot more of the plants roots up against the plastic where they can be negatively effected by excessive heat. In the breathable pots, the majority of the roots are further away from the fabric exterior so less likely to be effected from the fabric being heated up by the sun. So a long way of saying I wouldn't worry about it as much with fabric pots.