• If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.

pests First aphids, now ants - what to do

So I recently have started noticing big red ants on my pepper plants. On further inspection I also see that I have aphids but the ants are eating all the aphids. Nice, or so I thought since the ants are not really hurting the plant at all. This morning when I was watering one of them, it looks like the ants have dug into the soil and are living in the dirt. This doesn't seem like a good thing even though I have not seen any change in the plant itself. Is it better to leave them alone or eradicate the ants and the aphids?
 
chiefmanywrenches said:
So I recently have started noticing big red ants on my pepper plants. On further inspection I also see that I have aphids but the ants are eating all the aphids. Nice, or so I thought since the ants are not really hurting the plant at all. This morning when I was watering one of them, it looks like the ants have dug into the soil and are living in the dirt. This doesn't seem like a good thing even though I have not seen any change in the plant itself. Is it better to leave them alone or eradicate the ants and the aphids?
Ants in the soil isn't the worst that could happen. I'd just be worried if they farm the aphids rather than eat them out right.
 
I'm watching the same ...
 
It's not a good time of year to apply chemicals, IMHO ...
 
If you can watch, just watch.
 
Any plants that survive another month will be produce fiery poddage all through Fall, based on past experience.
 
I've had only bad experiences attempting to apply poisons during this time of year.
 
It sounds like you are missing a point. You stated that the ants are eating the aphids. They are not eating the aphids, but are eating the "honeydew" secretions that come from the aphids. That is why they "farm" the aphids - so they have a never-ending supply of honeydew. However, the aphids are eating your plants, which will ultimately harm the plants and their potential for production. Point being - get rid of both. Diatomaceous Earth will kill the ants - make sure you get food-grade. Note that it has to be dry to work, so you may have to apply it several times. I would recommend you get ladybugs to eat the aphids, but depending on the number of ants your plants have, that may not be ideal. If you have too many ants they can overwhelm the ladybugs - the ants WILL fight off the ladybugs as best as they are able to. Based on your description, it sounds to me like you have too many ants. So as far as getting rid of the aphids, you'll want to use something like Neem oil. This may also eliminate some of the ants. Note that diatomaceous earth only harms insects with exoskeletons (which includes ants and ladybugs), but it has no effect on soft-bodied insects such as aphids. That's why you will likely need a two-step approach.

Also note that aphids don't always congregate together on a plant. The ants don't really care if they're congregated like in the video - as long as they are on a plant where they can find them, they're cool with that. More than likely (like 99.999%) the aphids you sometimes find on the leaves are not dead, but are simply being very still while they consume the leaf cell contents.
 
If you see ants, you have an aphid problem. They love to herd them... Move them around and protect them... You have several choices to deal with them. First off,I mix doctor Bonners peppermint soap along with neem oil. If you have a light infestation, this works really well to combat the issue. If this doesn't stop the problem, you can use azamax...that will definitely stop the problem.

I usually grab the aphids and squish them in between my fingers... Then spray with soap and neem. When the ants show up, it's usually a sign of heavier infestation and takes a week or two with a daily regiment of soap/neem to control the problem.

Little tip, after the soap/neem dries, I like to foliage spray the plant with a extremely low dosage of Epsom Salt. Typically, 1 tablespoon for every gallon is what is recommended. We're trying to prevent any burning by using the soap, so I reduce the Epsom mixture to 1 teaspoon per gallon because each time I spray the soap/neem, I go back within an hour with the foliage spray to remove the soap residue.
 
Oh, especially for grant, if you can't find ladybugs locally, I highly recommend buglogical.com. I've ordered ladybugs from them almost every year, and their ladybugs always arrive hungry for aphids. I released the last of the most recent batch last night. So cool to go out there today and find them all over my plants, doing their thing.
 
geeme said:
Oh, especially for grant, if you can't find ladybugs locally, I highly recommend buglogical.com. I've ordered ladybugs from them almost every year, and their ladybugs always arrive hungry for aphids. I released the last of the most recent batch last night. So cool to go out there today and find them all over my plants, doing their thing.
ladybugs are a great investment if you can keep them fed. Otherwise, they will just leave or die when there isn't enough bugs for them to eat. I found just spraying organic insecticide was a cheaper and more effective solution since my infestations have been rather small.
 
     Ants are good for gardens. They aerate soil, break down organic matter and reduce compaction. Since they are eating your aphids (I get the impression that they are since you mentioned on three occasions that they are eating them.), it's an added bonus.
     Ants only become a problem when they start farming aphids on your plants (as mentioned above). If you notice they do start farming aphids on your plants, just hose them off or spray with insecticidal soap. It's probably not worth it to go balls out trying to eradicate them this late in the season. 
     If you're worried about aphids becoming a problem next season, just plant some flowers like marigolds or lantana or salvia near your plants next spring. They will attract predator insects (ladybugs and lacewings etc.) that will keep your plants clean all year long. As long as you have your aphid problem in check, ants are nothing but another beneficial insect for your garden.

CelticFarmer said:
ladybugs are a great investment if you can keep them fed. Otherwise, they will just leave or die when there isn't enough bugs for them to eat. I found just spraying organic insecticide was a cheaper and more effective solution since my infestations have been rather small.
 
     Flowers keep ladybugs fed and happy all season long, regardless of fluctuations in aphid population. Plus they're much easier to apply than pesticides. Just stick a few in the ground and let them do their thing!
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
Ants are good for gardens. They aerate soil, break down organic matter and reduce compaction. Since they are eating your aphids (I get the impression that they are since you mentioned on three occasions that they are eating them.), it's an added bonus.
     Ants only become a problem when they start farming aphids on your plants (as mentioned above). If you notice they do start farming aphids on your plants, just hose them off or spray with insecticidal soap. It's probably not worth it to go balls out trying to eradicate them this late in the season. 
     If you're worried about aphids becoming a problem next season, just plant some flowers like marigolds or lantana or salvia near your plants next spring. They will attract predator insects (ladybugs and lacewings etc.) that will keep your plants clean all year long. As long as you have your aphid problem in check, ants are nothing but another beneficial insect for your garden.

 
     Flowers keep ladybugs fed and happy all season long, regardless of fluctuations in aphid population. Plus they're much easier to apply than pesticides. Just stick a few in the ground and let them do their thing!

Im limited on my growing space as well as having regular 100f days, so flower growing isn't viable for myself. Because of that, I forget that others aren't in my situation and probably would reap that reward growing flowers to sustain them. Thanks for reminding me :)
 
CelticFarmer said:
Im limited on my growing space as well as having regular 100f days, so flower growing isn't viable for myself. Because of that, I forget that others aren't in my situation and probably would reap that reward growing flowers to sustain them. Thanks for reminding me :)
 
     Maybe look into lantana as a companion plant. That plant thrives in dry, 100o+ weather. It's very hard to kill. Even one plant in a 3-4 gallon container would create plenty of habitat to keep all sorts of beneficial insects stopping by your garden and searching for aphids to eat.
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
Maybe look into lantana as a companion plant. That plant thrives in dry, 100o+ weather. It's very hard to kill. Even one plant in a 3-4 gallon container would create plenty of habitat to keep all sorts of beneficial insects stopping by your garden and searching for aphids to eat.
I'll check out the Lantana. I've got some extra 5 gallon containers I could use. Thanks mate
 
     Marigolds are another good one. They don't mind sun and heat and mine always perk right back up even after they get really dry and wilted. 
     Growing container flowers is a good way to use last season's pepper-growing soil, too. A lot of flowers bloom better in N-deficient soil (an abundance of N promotes lots of vegetative growth and fewer flowers). Just mix in some bonemeal to make sure the soil has plenty of P and K and they'll bloom all season long. I just hit mine with a shot of Miracle-Gro when they start to look weak and they keep my whole garden aphid free for super cheap!
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
Marigolds are another good one. They don't mind sun and heat and mine always perk right back up even after they get really dry and wilted. 
     Growing container flowers is a good way to use last season's pepper-growing soil, too. A lot of flowers bloom better in N-deficient soil (an abundance of N promotes lots of vegetative growth and fewer flowers). Just mix in some bonemeal to make sure the soil has plenty of P and K and they'll bloom all season long. I just hit mine with a shot of Miracle-Gro when they start to look weak and they keep my whole garden aphid free for super cheap!
I have more problems with squirrels than insects actually. I'm sowing peppermint and spearmint right now to transplant along the fence line.

I've got some early and late bloom booster I'll try on these flowers when I plant them. I ordered some Lantana plugs instead of seeds and Marigolds :)
 
Get some Terro, basically sugar water and boric acid...That will wipe out the ants in a couple weeks, then when the ants are gone, get some lady bugs on the plant...at night. Or treat with neem, at night for the aphids.
 
Kikaida said:
Get some Terro, basically sugar water and boric acid...That will wipe out the ants in a couple weeks, then when the ants are gone, get some lady bugs on the plant...at night. Or treat with neem, at night for the aphids.
 
     Why not just get the ladybugs and leave the ants alone? Why all this ant bashing?  :P
 
Hybrid Mode 01 said:
 
     Why not just get the ladybugs and leave the ants alone? Why all this ant bashing?  :P
If the ants are farming the aphids they will attack the ladybugs once they get close to the aphids which will result in either having all your lady bugs die or fly away.
 
backyardpepper said:
If the ants are farming the aphids they will attack the ladybugs once they get close to the aphids which will result in either having all your lady bugs die or fly away.

The would be pretty cool to watch actually...
 
Back
Top