I'm very new to hydroponics and I'm not very impressed so far with my plant's rate of growth. Right now all i have is one yellow 7 pot brain strain under a 400w hps in a dwc bucket system with farm ring. I'm using the GH flora series and I'm really starting to question whether or not I'm using the ideal ratio of grow, bloom, micro. Can anyone help me out?
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GH flora series: what is the ideal mixture ratios for PEPPERS?
- Thread starter joemomma
- Start date
i use GH flora Nova, when adding water i use 1 gallon container and i add 3-4ml PH down(my water is up around 8) and i add 1 tsp at a time till i get to 500ppm my personal experience is the plants grow a little slow till the roots grow out of the basket and into the res, then they take off.
How old is the plant?
Now I'm wondering if my ppm may be problematic as I've never let it get under 800 and I've been keeping it between 1000-1200.
As far as age, this is where it gets a little fuzzy... it was under a t5 and growing in a folgers coffee can homemade "peculator" hydro system for about a month (it already had two sets of leaves when started) and now its been under the 400w hps in a dwc for 2 weeks (probably a little longer but not much) so very roughly I'd say its >6-7 weeks old. I'm sure transplanting and not being in a proper growing setup factors into its stunted growth... i'll post a pic
Hmmmmm.... I'm new to the forum as well and have yet to learn how to post a pic...
As far as age, this is where it gets a little fuzzy... it was under a t5 and growing in a folgers coffee can homemade "peculator" hydro system for about a month (it already had two sets of leaves when started) and now its been under the 400w hps in a dwc for 2 weeks (probably a little longer but not much) so very roughly I'd say its >6-7 weeks old. I'm sure transplanting and not being in a proper growing setup factors into its stunted growth... i'll post a pic
Hmmmmm.... I'm new to the forum as well and have yet to learn how to post a pic...
lots of small comments:
1) I think the easiest way to post a picture is to host it somewhere like flickr or photobucket, then use the IMG tag (you can copy it straight of of flickr and paste it here.
2) The most authoritative source I've found (Hydroponic Capsicum Production by Dr Lynette Morgan/ Simon Lennard) has a formula with a low P value. This would most closely be mimiced by leaving out the bloom formula entirely. Lots of people here (myself included) grow using only nova bloom (basically bloom + micro, I think ~3:1 IIRC). My only conclusion is that in DWC, when changing the resevior regularly, peppers are relatively insensitive to their nutrient formulation.
3) That same source recommends EC of 2.5. It seems like this corresponds to roughly 1500 ppm, based on the exact salts in solution...How to match up the reading depends on the calibration of your ppm meter...
4) I personally saw low growth rates with higher nutrient concentrations (totally uncontrolled and unscientific, but I think I saw that). So my conclusion to this is that it depends.
Moral of the story: If everything else is healthy, your plant shouldn't be too sensitive to nutrients. I'd say to make sure the environmental factors are right, and just give it time. It might still be shocked from the transplant.
1) I think the easiest way to post a picture is to host it somewhere like flickr or photobucket, then use the IMG tag (you can copy it straight of of flickr and paste it here.
2) The most authoritative source I've found (Hydroponic Capsicum Production by Dr Lynette Morgan/ Simon Lennard) has a formula with a low P value. This would most closely be mimiced by leaving out the bloom formula entirely. Lots of people here (myself included) grow using only nova bloom (basically bloom + micro, I think ~3:1 IIRC). My only conclusion is that in DWC, when changing the resevior regularly, peppers are relatively insensitive to their nutrient formulation.
3) That same source recommends EC of 2.5. It seems like this corresponds to roughly 1500 ppm, based on the exact salts in solution...How to match up the reading depends on the calibration of your ppm meter...
4) I personally saw low growth rates with higher nutrient concentrations (totally uncontrolled and unscientific, but I think I saw that). So my conclusion to this is that it depends.
Moral of the story: If everything else is healthy, your plant shouldn't be too sensitive to nutrients. I'd say to make sure the environmental factors are right, and just give it time. It might still be shocked from the transplant.
here is my brain strain in an 18gal tote, PPM 5-700 PH 5.8-6.2 ish i just add 3ml PH down to each gallon and dont test it. i do not do res changes the plant sucks up too much water so i jsut add 1 gallon every day. its been hot here so i been keeping the water in the fridge over night and adding it to the res to drop the temps some. this plant is almost 1 year old
Wow man! You've made me fairly certain that my ppm levels are way too high. Even though I know better, I still have to fight to the natural inclination that more is better. I know that's not the case and it's gotten a lot of trouble over the years... Anyway, I think I'm going to drop my ppm levels by half and see how that does. Thank you very much man
I just finished a successful grow of a half-dozen varieties, and used a bloom formula (cheap, no-name brand dry powder) all the way through. I don't use a re-circulating system. I agree that peppers tend to be insensitive to variations in formula. They also tend to be insensitive to solution strength, although once they're mature and producing pods they can tolerate a very strong solution.
Now that makes a lot of sense!!
It's my first year growing hydroponics, I kept my ppm around 6-800 when they were small, but I gradually jacked it up to 1500-2k ish ppms. Ph around 4.9-5.4. Grown inside for the first 2 month then put outside. As others said, they started off very slowly but once the root ball got big enough they really took off. Started from seeds around april 20th. This picture was taken 3 weeks ago, they are much bigger now and full of pods ! hehe
I also use GH floranova growth and bloom!
I also use GH floranova growth and bloom!
It's my first year growing hydroponics, I kept my ppm around 6-800 when they were small, but I gradually jacked it up to 1500-2k ish ppms. Ph around 4.9-5.4. Grown inside for the first 2 month then put outside. As others said, they started off very slowly but once the root ball got big enough they really took off. Started from seeds around april 20th. This picture was taken 3 weeks ago, they are much bigger now and full of pods ! hehe
I also use GH floranova growth and bloom!
NICE!!! Those stalks look ridiculously fat and the foliage looks super healthy! I didn't know you could keep the ph so low. I've lowered my ppm to <800 and already see a dramatic change in the color. It's starting to deepen in green instead of leaning slightly towards the yellow side so I'm pretty confident i was killing it with kindness.
Wow.
Just got my PPM meter and did a search here for what others are using.
Quite a variation.
My PH meter got waylaid enroute, so when it finally arrives, and I get the res adjusted, I may revisit for a closer consensus.
Currently running in the 900 ppm range, and all fine except one peach bhut that continues to be droopy.
Sprouter running 1/2 that, and first sprout seems happy.
Just got my PPM meter and did a search here for what others are using.
Quite a variation.
My PH meter got waylaid enroute, so when it finally arrives, and I get the res adjusted, I may revisit for a closer consensus.
Currently running in the 900 ppm range, and all fine except one peach bhut that continues to be droopy.
Sprouter running 1/2 that, and first sprout seems happy.
Hi,
My habaneros really really like the GH flora series. From about 4 weeks old to now, which is uhhhh, 28 weeks, yeah yeah that's the ticket....I was using GH flora series. pH at 6, and the EC at 2.0. I would add water, about 3 liters a day sometimes, when the water uptake would swell. I used the ml/l method, and did a 2.5:2.5:1.2 ratio. With this ratio I noticed very good leaf formation, and thick stems. After flowers started to form, I moved to a 2:2.5:2 ratio. and kept the pH at 6 in the mix bucket, but when I added it to the reservoir I could only maintain a pH of 5.5-5.8. So, The reservoir pH stays around 5.7 on average no matter if I add nutrient formulas at 6, or 6.5. I simplified everything by going to a 2 part mix of GH flora micro/flora mato. This was hard to come by, and had to order it, since most of the nuts sold at the local shop are not for regularly flowering plants. BUT, they do make great products, and so far, the change to Flora Mato has given rise to fruit ....
I've never let the EC go above 2.5 and that was only once to see what would happen. I got a bit of tip burn on the more delicate Naga Jolokia plants. The Jolokia roots and the whole plant in general reacts completely different than the chocolate habanero that share the NFT system, and nutrients.
What has been very interesting is seeing that with the pepper plant, especially the choc hab, A nutrient excess will show itself in only a few leaves, but the rest of the plant will stay the same. The flora Mato/micro combo seems to work a bit better, is more easy to mix, and works with soil too at 50% dilution. Next year I will experiment with other brands, but I have a bunch of GH to go through this year, and so I'll use it all up. I say, the 3 part flora series is really for "violets" and is harder to find the sweet spot for peppers, but the micro/mato combo works well. The one issue I have here is the tap water is basically pH 7 to 7.5 in the winter, EC 0, ppm 40 and so getting the calcium concentration correct is hard. The floro micro for soft water may work better, but I need to use the rest of the hard water formula that I have....Anywayz.....The Flora series works well in a 2ml/l : 2ml/l : 1.2ml/l ratio early and a 2.5ml/l : 2.5ml/l : 2 ratio middle, and then 2ml/l : 2.5ml/l 2.5ml/l once there is fruit. and then a switch to flora mato/micro. All of this is indoor under HPS 430w in a small area using NFT with a 10 Liter reservoir and water temp around 20C. I hope my blah blah blah makes sense, I'm high on cofffee and french pastries......
My habaneros really really like the GH flora series. From about 4 weeks old to now, which is uhhhh, 28 weeks, yeah yeah that's the ticket....I was using GH flora series. pH at 6, and the EC at 2.0. I would add water, about 3 liters a day sometimes, when the water uptake would swell. I used the ml/l method, and did a 2.5:2.5:1.2 ratio. With this ratio I noticed very good leaf formation, and thick stems. After flowers started to form, I moved to a 2:2.5:2 ratio. and kept the pH at 6 in the mix bucket, but when I added it to the reservoir I could only maintain a pH of 5.5-5.8. So, The reservoir pH stays around 5.7 on average no matter if I add nutrient formulas at 6, or 6.5. I simplified everything by going to a 2 part mix of GH flora micro/flora mato. This was hard to come by, and had to order it, since most of the nuts sold at the local shop are not for regularly flowering plants. BUT, they do make great products, and so far, the change to Flora Mato has given rise to fruit ....
I've never let the EC go above 2.5 and that was only once to see what would happen. I got a bit of tip burn on the more delicate Naga Jolokia plants. The Jolokia roots and the whole plant in general reacts completely different than the chocolate habanero that share the NFT system, and nutrients.
What has been very interesting is seeing that with the pepper plant, especially the choc hab, A nutrient excess will show itself in only a few leaves, but the rest of the plant will stay the same. The flora Mato/micro combo seems to work a bit better, is more easy to mix, and works with soil too at 50% dilution. Next year I will experiment with other brands, but I have a bunch of GH to go through this year, and so I'll use it all up. I say, the 3 part flora series is really for "violets" and is harder to find the sweet spot for peppers, but the micro/mato combo works well. The one issue I have here is the tap water is basically pH 7 to 7.5 in the winter, EC 0, ppm 40 and so getting the calcium concentration correct is hard. The floro micro for soft water may work better, but I need to use the rest of the hard water formula that I have....Anywayz.....The Flora series works well in a 2ml/l : 2ml/l : 1.2ml/l ratio early and a 2.5ml/l : 2.5ml/l : 2 ratio middle, and then 2ml/l : 2.5ml/l 2.5ml/l once there is fruit. and then a switch to flora mato/micro. All of this is indoor under HPS 430w in a small area using NFT with a 10 Liter reservoir and water temp around 20C. I hope my blah blah blah makes sense, I'm high on cofffee and french pastries......
I don't read ph or Ppm anymore. Fresh mutes once a week does it just fine.